< Previous20 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKthink like a cookDO I HAVE TO PEEL 40 GARLIC CLOVES?Forty cloves is a lot of garlic—that’s the point of this rec-ipe. But don’t fret. Our testing has shown that prepeeled supermarket garlic works fine in this (and other) recipes, as long as you use them pretty quickly—the shelf life of prepeeled garlic in a jar, which must be refrigerated, is only about two weeks, compared to three weeks or more for a whole head of garlic stored in a cool, dry place. If you prefer the shortcut product, just make sure the cloves look firm and white with a matte finish when you purchase them.If you prefer to use whole heads of garlic, here’s a shortcut we came up with for peeling a lot in one go. Break the heads of garlic into individual cloves and place them in a heavy-duty zipper-lock bag. Squeeze out most of the air, seal the bag, and gently pound the cloves with a rolling pin. Then just remove the peeled cloves from the bag, zip the bag back up (with the skins still inside), and discard. Microwaving the cloves on high power for 10 to 20 seconds can also help the skins come off more easily.Chicken with 40 Cloves of GarlicServes 4; Total Time 1 hourwhy this recipe worksYes, you read it right: This classic French dish has 40 whole cloves of garlic in it, but instead of being overwhelming, the garlic is mellow and sweet, part of a sauce that transforms a few simple ingredients into a transcendent braise. We started by microwaving the garlic to remove its harsh edge. A bit of sugar helped mimic the sweetness of long-roasted garlic and encouraged the cloves to brown. After searing bone-in chicken thighs to crisp their skin, we added our garlic to the pan to brown, then built a sauce before nestling the chicken back in the skillet, skin side up so it would stay crispy during the oven braise. When everything was cooked, we mashed half of the garlic to ensure its flavor would permeate every bite. You can substitute four bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (halved crosswise) for the thighs; bake them until they register 160 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes. You will need a 12-inch ovensafe skillet for this recipe. Serve with crusty bread. 40 garlic cloves (3–4 heads), peeled2 teaspoons vegetable oil1/2 teaspoon sugar8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmedSalt and pepper1/2 cup dry sherry3/4 cup chicken broth1/2 cup heavy cream2 sprigs fresh thyme1 bay leaf2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss garlic, 1 teaspoon oil, and sugar together in bowl. Microwave garlic mixture until garlic is slightly softened and lightly spot-ted, about 4 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving.2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium- high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken well on skin side only, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat left in skillet. Add microwaved garlic mixture and cook over medium-low heat until evenly browned, about 1 minute. Stir in sherry, scraping up any browned bits. Increase heat to medium and simmer until sherry has nearly evaporated, about 4 min-utes. Add broth, cream, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf. Whisk in cornstarch mixture and simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.4. Return chicken to skillet, skin side up, with any accumulated juices. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until thermometer inserted into chicken registers 175 degrees, 18 to 22 minutes.5. Transfer chicken and half of garlic to serving dish. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Using potato masher, mash remaining garlic into sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste and pour some of sauce around chicken. Serve with remaining sauce.RECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION sunday suppers 2120 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKthink like a cookDO I HAVE TO PEEL 40 GARLIC CLOVES?Forty cloves is a lot of garlic—that’s the point of this rec-ipe. But don’t fret. Our testing has shown that prepeeled supermarket garlic works fine in this (and other) recipes, as long as you use them pretty quickly—the shelf life of prepeeled garlic in a jar, which must be refrigerated, is only about two weeks, compared to three weeks or more for a whole head of garlic stored in a cool, dry place. If you prefer the shortcut product, just make sure the cloves look firm and white with a matte finish when you purchase them.If you prefer to use whole heads of garlic, here’s a shortcut we came up with for peeling a lot in one go. Break the heads of garlic into individual cloves and place them in a heavy-duty zipper-lock bag. Squeeze out most of the air, seal the bag, and gently pound the cloves with a rolling pin. Then just remove the peeled cloves from the bag, zip the bag back up (with the skins still inside), and discard. Microwaving the cloves on high power for 10 to 20 seconds can also help the skins come off more easily.Chicken with 40 Cloves of GarlicServes 4; Total Time 1 hourwhy this recipe worksYes, you read it right: This classic French dish has 40 whole cloves of garlic in it, but instead of being overwhelming, the garlic is mellow and sweet, part of a sauce that transforms a few simple ingredients into a transcendent braise. We started by microwaving the garlic to remove its harsh edge. A bit of sugar helped mimic the sweetness of long-roasted garlic and encouraged the cloves to brown. After searing bone-in chicken thighs to crisp their skin, we added our garlic to the pan to brown, then built a sauce before nestling the chicken back in the skillet, skin side up so it would stay crispy during the oven braise. When everything was cooked, we mashed half of the garlic to ensure its flavor would permeate every bite. You can substitute four bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (halved crosswise) for the thighs; bake them until they register 160 degrees, 15 to 20 minutes. You will need a 12-inch ovensafe skillet for this recipe. Serve with crusty bread. 40 garlic cloves (3–4 heads), peeled2 teaspoons vegetable oil1/2 teaspoon sugar8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmedSalt and pepper1/2 cup dry sherry3/4 cup chicken broth1/2 cup heavy cream2 sprigs fresh thyme1 bay leaf2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon water1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss garlic, 1 teaspoon oil, and sugar together in bowl. Microwave garlic mixture until garlic is slightly softened and lightly spot-ted, about 4 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving.2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon oil in 12-inch ovensafe skillet over medium- high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken well on skin side only, 7 to 10 minutes; transfer to plate.3. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat left in skillet. Add microwaved garlic mixture and cook over medium-low heat until evenly browned, about 1 minute. Stir in sherry, scraping up any browned bits. Increase heat to medium and simmer until sherry has nearly evaporated, about 4 min-utes. Add broth, cream, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf. Whisk in cornstarch mixture and simmer until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.4. Return chicken to skillet, skin side up, with any accumulated juices. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until thermometer inserted into chicken registers 175 degrees, 18 to 22 minutes.5. Transfer chicken and half of garlic to serving dish. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Using potato masher, mash remaining garlic into sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste and pour some of sauce around chicken. Serve with remaining sauce.RECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION sunday suppers 2122 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION sunday suppers 23think like a cookFUNNY, MY SCALLOPS DON’T LOOK DRYWhen it comes to buying scallops, there is only one type worth buying: sea scallops. The other varieties, bay and Calico, are much smaller and either too rare and expensive or very cheap and rubbery. Plump sea scal-lops are ideal for searing, grilling, and frying. Distinguishing Dry from WetMany scallops are dipped in preservatives to extend their shelf life; these are “wet” scallops. Unfortunately, the preservatives can ruin a scallop’s flavor and texture. Unprocessed, or “dry,” scallops have much more flavor and a creamy texture, plus they brown nicely. Dry scal-lops look ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are bright white. If you are still unsure, try this test: Place one scallop on a paper towel–lined plate and microwave for 15 sec-onds. A dry scallop will exude very little water, but a wet scallop will leave a sizable ring of moisture. (The micro-waved scallop can be cooked as is.)Treating Wet ScallopsWhat if you can find only wet scallops? You can improve the taste by soaking them in a solution of 1 quart cold water, 1/4 cup lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons salt for 30 minutes. Be sure to pat the scallops very dry after-wards. These scallops will be harder to brown than untreated dry scallops.Preparing ScallopsScallops require little preparation, just a rinse, but you should remove the crescent-shaped tendon that is often attached to the side, as it becomes incredibly tough once cooked. Simply pull it off with your fingers.Seared Scallops with Squash Puree and Sage ButterServes 4; Total Time 45 minuteswhy this recipe worksElegant yet casual, restaurant-worthy caramel-ized scallops served alongside a homey squash puree will make guests feel spoiled. In order to brown properly, scallops need to be totally dry when they hit the pan, so pat them well with paper towels. And get that pan smoking hot; this ensures they’ll caramelize before the inte-riors overcook. A quick browned butter pan sauce provides an elegant finish. For a silky smooth squash puree to accompany the scal-lops, we simply microwave butternut squash before pureeing it in the food processor with half-and-half, butter, and seasonings. To keep your kitchen time to a minimum, you can make the squash puree in advance. We recommend buying “dry” scallops for this recipe (see box at right).2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces (5 cups)4 tablespoons unsalted butter1 tablespoon half-and-halfSalt and pepper1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper11/2 pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 shallot, minced2 teaspoons minced fresh sage plus 8 leaves1 tablespoon lemon juice1. Place squash in bowl, cover, and microwave until tender, 8 to 12 min-utes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Drain, then transfer to food processor. Add 1 tablespoon butter, half-and-half, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cayenne and process until smooth, about 20 seconds. Return to bowl and cover to keep warm.2. Pat scallops dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of scallops and cook, without moving, until well browned, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Flip scallops and cook until sides are firm and centers are opaque, 30 to 90 seconds. Transfer to plate and tent with aluminum foil. Wipe out skillet with paper towels and repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining scallops. Transfer to plate with first batch.3. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Continue to cook, swirling skillet constantly, until butter is starting to brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 2 minutes. Add shallot, minced sage, and sage leaves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over scallops and serve with butternut squash.22 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION sunday suppers 23think like a cookFUNNY, MY SCALLOPS DON’T LOOK DRYWhen it comes to buying scallops, there is only one type worth buying: sea scallops. The other varieties, bay and Calico, are much smaller and either too rare and expensive or very cheap and rubbery. Plump sea scal-lops are ideal for searing, grilling, and frying. Distinguishing Dry from WetMany scallops are dipped in preservatives to extend their shelf life; these are “wet” scallops. Unfortunately, the preservatives can ruin a scallop’s flavor and texture. Unprocessed, or “dry,” scallops have much more flavor and a creamy texture, plus they brown nicely. Dry scal-lops look ivory or pinkish; wet scallops are bright white. If you are still unsure, try this test: Place one scallop on a paper towel–lined plate and microwave for 15 sec-onds. A dry scallop will exude very little water, but a wet scallop will leave a sizable ring of moisture. (The micro-waved scallop can be cooked as is.)Treating Wet ScallopsWhat if you can find only wet scallops? You can improve the taste by soaking them in a solution of 1 quart cold water, 1/4 cup lemon juice, and 2 tablespoons salt for 30 minutes. Be sure to pat the scallops very dry after-wards. These scallops will be harder to brown than untreated dry scallops.Preparing ScallopsScallops require little preparation, just a rinse, but you should remove the crescent-shaped tendon that is often attached to the side, as it becomes incredibly tough once cooked. Simply pull it off with your fingers.Seared Scallops with Squash Puree and Sage ButterServes 4; Total Time 45 minuteswhy this recipe worksElegant yet casual, restaurant-worthy caramel-ized scallops served alongside a homey squash puree will make guests feel spoiled. In order to brown properly, scallops need to be totally dry when they hit the pan, so pat them well with paper towels. And get that pan smoking hot; this ensures they’ll caramelize before the inte-riors overcook. A quick browned butter pan sauce provides an elegant finish. For a silky smooth squash puree to accompany the scal-lops, we simply microwave butternut squash before pureeing it in the food processor with half-and-half, butter, and seasonings. To keep your kitchen time to a minimum, you can make the squash puree in advance. We recommend buying “dry” scallops for this recipe (see box at right).2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces (5 cups)4 tablespoons unsalted butter1 tablespoon half-and-halfSalt and pepper1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper11/2 pounds large sea scallops, tendons removed2 tablespoons vegetable oil1 shallot, minced2 teaspoons minced fresh sage plus 8 leaves1 tablespoon lemon juice1. Place squash in bowl, cover, and microwave until tender, 8 to 12 min-utes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Drain, then transfer to food processor. Add 1 tablespoon butter, half-and-half, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cayenne and process until smooth, about 20 seconds. Return to bowl and cover to keep warm.2. Pat scallops dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of scallops and cook, without moving, until well browned, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Flip scallops and cook until sides are firm and centers are opaque, 30 to 90 seconds. Transfer to plate and tent with aluminum foil. Wipe out skillet with paper towels and repeat with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and remaining scallops. Transfer to plate with first batch.3. Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Continue to cook, swirling skillet constantly, until butter is starting to brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 2 minutes. Add shallot, minced sage, and sage leaves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over scallops and serve with butternut squash.24 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION back-pocket baking and desserts 25think like a cookCHEWY VS. CAKEY: A DEBATE FOR THE AGESCookie texture is polarizing. Some prefer a chewy cookie with crisp edges and a yielding center. The milk dunkers like things crispy. Others enjoy a cookie that is cake-like, with a more open, tender crumb. We think there is a place for all kinds in the cookie jar, but it helps to know the science behind the textures. A big determining factor is aeration from beating soft-ened butter with sugar; this builds structure for a cookie with cakier texture. For chewier cookies, we’ll add vegetable oil, or use melted butter (see the Brown Sugar Cookies, page 000), which doesn’t aerate as well, and interacts more freely with flour to develop gluten, increasing chew. Brown also sugar creates chewiness. The molasses in it is hydroscropic: It holds onto mois-ture during and even after baking. Of course, leaveners play a role. Baking powder provides lift that can make cookies cakier. Baking soda, by contrast, weakens a cookie’s structure since it acts before the dough can set, helping it to spread out and even collapse a bit— ideal for a chewy cookie. Other chewy influencers include egg yolks, while using additional eggs or liquid creates structure and steam that increases cakiness. You can imagine the amount of testing required to explore all the variables for a perfectly textured cookie!Chocolate Chunk Oatmeal Cookies with Pecans and CherriesMakes about 16 cookies; Total Time 1 hour (plus cooling time)why this recipe worksBake these cookies and you don’t have to choose between oatmeal and chocolate chip. We incorporated appealing chunks of bitter-sweet chocolate into an oatmeal dough, balancing them with toasted pecans and tart dried cherries. If you associate oatmeal cook-ies with being dry and cakey, these will change your mind: They are superlatively chewy. Using all dark brown sugar brought deep molasses flavor and a chewy texture. Making big cook-ies and baking them until slightly underdone further ensured chewiness. You can substitute walnuts or skinned hazelnuts (see page 000) for the pecans and dried cranberries for the cherries. Regular old- fashioned oats work best in this recipe.11/4 cups (61/4 ounces) all-purpose flour3/4 teaspoon baking powder1/2 teaspoon baking soda1/2 teaspoon salt11/4 cups (33/4 ounces) old-fashioned rolled oats1 cup pecans, toasted and chopped1 cup (4 ounces) dried sour cherries, chopped coarse4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into chunks about size of chocolate chips12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened11/2 cups packed (101/2 ounces) dark brown sugar1 large egg1 teaspoon vanilla extract1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in bowl. Stir oats, pecans, cherries, and chocolate together in second bowl.2. Using electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until no sugar lumps remain, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Reduce speed to medium-low, add egg and vanilla, and beat until fully incorporated, about 30 seconds, scraping down bowl as needed. Reduce speed to low, add flour mixture, and mix until just com-bined, about 30 seconds. Gradually add oat mixture until just incorporated. Give dough final stir by hand to ensure that no flour pock-ets remain and ingredients are evenly distributed. 3. Working with 1/4 cup dough at a time, roll into balls and space them 21/2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Using bottom of greased dry mea-suring cup, press each ball to 1-inch thickness.4. Bake cookies until medium brown and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft (cookies will look raw between cracks and seem underdone), 20 to 22 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let cookies cool on sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Let cookies cool completely before serving.24 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION back-pocket baking and desserts 25think like a cookCHEWY VS. CAKEY: A DEBATE FOR THE AGESCookie texture is polarizing. Some prefer a chewy cookie with crisp edges and a yielding center. The milk dunkers like things crispy. Others enjoy a cookie that is cake-like, with a more open, tender crumb. We think there is a place for all kinds in the cookie jar, but it helps to know the science behind the textures. A big determining factor is aeration from beating soft-ened butter with sugar; this builds structure for a cookie with cakier texture. For chewier cookies, we’ll add vegetable oil, or use melted butter (see the Brown Sugar Cookies, page 000), which doesn’t aerate as well, and interacts more freely with flour to develop gluten, increasing chew. Brown also sugar creates chewiness. The molasses in it is hydroscropic: It holds onto mois-ture during and even after baking. Of course, leaveners play a role. Baking powder provides lift that can make cookies cakier. Baking soda, by contrast, weakens a cookie’s structure since it acts before the dough can set, helping it to spread out and even collapse a bit— ideal for a chewy cookie. Other chewy influencers include egg yolks, while using additional eggs or liquid creates structure and steam that increases cakiness. You can imagine the amount of testing required to explore all the variables for a perfectly textured cookie!Chocolate Chunk Oatmeal Cookies with Pecans and CherriesMakes about 16 cookies; Total Time 1 hour (plus cooling time)why this recipe worksBake these cookies and you don’t have to choose between oatmeal and chocolate chip. We incorporated appealing chunks of bitter-sweet chocolate into an oatmeal dough, balancing them with toasted pecans and tart dried cherries. If you associate oatmeal cook-ies with being dry and cakey, these will change your mind: They are superlatively chewy. Using all dark brown sugar brought deep molasses flavor and a chewy texture. Making big cook-ies and baking them until slightly underdone further ensured chewiness. You can substitute walnuts or skinned hazelnuts (see page 000) for the pecans and dried cranberries for the cherries. Regular old- fashioned oats work best in this recipe.11/4 cups (61/4 ounces) all-purpose flour3/4 teaspoon baking powder1/2 teaspoon baking soda1/2 teaspoon salt11/4 cups (33/4 ounces) old-fashioned rolled oats1 cup pecans, toasted and chopped1 cup (4 ounces) dried sour cherries, chopped coarse4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped into chunks about size of chocolate chips12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened11/2 cups packed (101/2 ounces) dark brown sugar1 large egg1 teaspoon vanilla extract1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in bowl. Stir oats, pecans, cherries, and chocolate together in second bowl.2. Using electric mixer on medium speed, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until no sugar lumps remain, about 1 minute, scraping down bowl as needed. Reduce speed to medium-low, add egg and vanilla, and beat until fully incorporated, about 30 seconds, scraping down bowl as needed. Reduce speed to low, add flour mixture, and mix until just com-bined, about 30 seconds. Gradually add oat mixture until just incorporated. Give dough final stir by hand to ensure that no flour pock-ets remain and ingredients are evenly distributed. 3. Working with 1/4 cup dough at a time, roll into balls and space them 21/2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Using bottom of greased dry mea-suring cup, press each ball to 1-inch thickness.4. Bake cookies until medium brown and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft (cookies will look raw between cracks and seem underdone), 20 to 22 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Let cookies cool on sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Let cookies cool completely before serving.We hope youenjoyed this EYB Book PreviewThe complete book is available from all major booksellers. Or use the "Buy Book" button and help support EYB.Next >