< Previous10 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKTHE SIMPLEST WAY TO COOK EVERYTHING 11think like a cookA REVERSE SEARIt’s difficult to cook thicker steaks (1½ to 1¾ inches thick) such as filets mignons and pork chops entirely on the stovetop; you often end up with a burnt exterior and a raw center. Even if you can manage to avoid burning the exterior, the meat around the perimeter is usually over-cooked by the time the center comes to temperature. The secret to getting a great crust on extra-thick chops and steaks without making them tough is to cook them in a very low oven, then quickly sear them. This is called reverse searing. The gentle oven heat minimizes mois-ture loss and promotes a natural enzymatic reaction that breaks down connective tissue in the meat and makes it especially tender. We also roast the meat on a wire rack, which allows the hot air to circulate and dry the surface of the mat. The drier surface helps the meat brown even better in the skillet. After their time in the oven, the meat browns in record time, and since the meat is in the pan for just a few minutes, there isn’t time for it to lose much moisture or become overcooked.Pan-Seared Thick-Cut Pork ChopsServes 4; Total Time 1 hour (plus salting time)why this recipe worksThick-cut chops are decadent, restaurant-style fare, but come with the challenge of cooking the inside without overcooking the exterior. For perfect chops, we flip-flopped conven-tional logic and started them in a low oven, letting the meat gently tenderize before finish-ing by searing them in a hot pan to create a beautifully caramelized exterior. Buy chops of similar thickness so that they cook at the same rate. We prefer the flavor of natural chops over that of enhanced chops (which have been injected with a salt solution and sodium phos-phate to increase moistness and flavor), but if processed pork is all you can find, skip the salt-ing step in step 1. Serve the chops with Salsa Verde (page 000) or your favorite applesauce.4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, 11/2 inches thick (about 12 ounces each)Kosher salt and pepper1–2 tablespoons vegetable oil1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. Pat chops dry with paper towels. Using sharp knife, cut 2 slits, about 2 inches apart, through outer layer of fat and silver skin around edge of each chop. (This membrane contracts faster than the rest of the meat and can cause buckling if left intact.) Sprinkle entire surface of each chop with 1 teaspoon salt. Place chops on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and let stand at room temperature 45 minutes.2. Season chops liberally with pepper; transfer baking sheet to oven. Cook until instant-read thermometer inserted into centers of chops and away from bones registers 120 to 125 degrees, 30 to 45 minutes.3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat until smoking. Place 2 chops in skillet and sear until well browned and crusty, 11/2 to 3 minutes, lifting once halfway through to redistribute fat underneath each chop. (Reduce heat if browned bits in pan bottom start to burn.) Using tongs, turn chops and cook until well browned on sec-ond side, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer chops to plate and repeat with remaining 2 chops, adding extra tablespoon oil if pan is dry.4. Reduce heat to medium. Use tongs to stand 2 pork chops on their sides. Holding chops together with tongs, return to skillet and sear sides of chops (with exception of bone side) until browned and instant-read thermometer inserted into center of chop and away from bone registers 140 to 145 degrees, about 11/2 minutes. Repeat with remaining 2 chops. Let chops rest, loosely tented with foil, for 10 minutes.10 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKTHE SIMPLEST WAY TO COOK EVERYTHING 11think like a cookA REVERSE SEARIt’s difficult to cook thicker steaks (1½ to 1¾ inches thick) such as filets mignons and pork chops entirely on the stovetop; you often end up with a burnt exterior and a raw center. Even if you can manage to avoid burning the exterior, the meat around the perimeter is usually over-cooked by the time the center comes to temperature. The secret to getting a great crust on extra-thick chops and steaks without making them tough is to cook them in a very low oven, then quickly sear them. This is called reverse searing. The gentle oven heat minimizes mois-ture loss and promotes a natural enzymatic reaction that breaks down connective tissue in the meat and makes it especially tender. We also roast the meat on a wire rack, which allows the hot air to circulate and dry the surface of the mat. The drier surface helps the meat brown even better in the skillet. After their time in the oven, the meat browns in record time, and since the meat is in the pan for just a few minutes, there isn’t time for it to lose much moisture or become overcooked.Pan-Seared Thick-Cut Pork ChopsServes 4; Total Time 1 hour (plus salting time)why this recipe worksThick-cut chops are decadent, restaurant-style fare, but come with the challenge of cooking the inside without overcooking the exterior. For perfect chops, we flip-flopped conven-tional logic and started them in a low oven, letting the meat gently tenderize before finish-ing by searing them in a hot pan to create a beautifully caramelized exterior. Buy chops of similar thickness so that they cook at the same rate. We prefer the flavor of natural chops over that of enhanced chops (which have been injected with a salt solution and sodium phos-phate to increase moistness and flavor), but if processed pork is all you can find, skip the salt-ing step in step 1. Serve the chops with Salsa Verde (page 000) or your favorite applesauce.4 bone-in rib loin pork chops, 11/2 inches thick (about 12 ounces each)Kosher salt and pepper1–2 tablespoons vegetable oil1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. Pat chops dry with paper towels. Using sharp knife, cut 2 slits, about 2 inches apart, through outer layer of fat and silver skin around edge of each chop. (This membrane contracts faster than the rest of the meat and can cause buckling if left intact.) Sprinkle entire surface of each chop with 1 teaspoon salt. Place chops on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and let stand at room temperature 45 minutes.2. Season chops liberally with pepper; transfer baking sheet to oven. Cook until instant-read thermometer inserted into centers of chops and away from bones registers 120 to 125 degrees, 30 to 45 minutes.3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat until smoking. Place 2 chops in skillet and sear until well browned and crusty, 11/2 to 3 minutes, lifting once halfway through to redistribute fat underneath each chop. (Reduce heat if browned bits in pan bottom start to burn.) Using tongs, turn chops and cook until well browned on sec-ond side, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer chops to plate and repeat with remaining 2 chops, adding extra tablespoon oil if pan is dry.4. Reduce heat to medium. Use tongs to stand 2 pork chops on their sides. Holding chops together with tongs, return to skillet and sear sides of chops (with exception of bone side) until browned and instant-read thermometer inserted into center of chop and away from bone registers 140 to 145 degrees, about 11/2 minutes. Repeat with remaining 2 chops. Let chops rest, loosely tented with foil, for 10 minutes.12 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION salads and bowls 13think like a cookDIY SICHUAN CHILI OILIf you like spicy food, you should definitely add this homemade Sichuan chili oil to your pantry. We like to drizzle it over our Smashed Cucumber Salad to add an extra dimension when the salad is paired with milder dishes. It’s also great on dumplings or as a finishing oil for soups. The hallmark of Sichuan chili oil is a balance between la—the concentrated heat from dried chiles—and ma—the numbing effect of Sichuan peppercorns. Blooming the aromatics in vegetable oil builds a pun-gent base. Asian chili powder is similar to hot red pepper flakes but is milder and more finely ground. A Sichuan chili powder is preferred, but Korean red pep-per flakes, called gochugaru, are a good alternative.Sichuan Chili OilMakes about 11/2 cupsPlace 1/2 cup chili powder, 2 tablespoon sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon crushed Sichuan peppercorns, and 1/2 tea-spoon salt in heatproof bowl. Heat 1 cup vegetable oil, one 1-inch piece unpeeled ginger sliced into 1/4-inch rounds and smashed, 2 bay leaves, 3 star anise pods, 5 crushed cardamom pods, and another 1 tablespoon crushed Sichuan peppercorns in small saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until spices have darkened and mixture is very fragrant, 25 to 30 minutes. Strain oil mixture through fine-mesh strainer into bowl with chili powder mixture (it may bubble slightly); dis-card solids in strainer. Stir well to combine. Once cool, transfer mixture to airtight container and let stand for at least 12 hours before using. (Oil can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 week or refrigerated for up to 3 months.)Smashed Cucumber Salad Serves 4; Total Time 30 minuteswhy this recipe worksThis simple salad may not sound like much on paper, but its crunchy, pickle-like texture, slight acidity, and sweet-salty dressing make it a standout on the plate. Smashed cucumbers, or pai huang gua, is a Sichuan dish that is typically served with rich, spicy food. Why smash cukes? First, the irregular pieces crisp up faster during salting. They also do a better job of hanging onto dressing than clean slices. The Chinese black vinegar used in the dressing may be unfamiliar but is worth seeking out for its malty, smoky notes. (And a recipe this easy is a great way to try out a new ingredient.) If you can’t find it, substitute 2 teaspoons rice vinegar and 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. We like to drizzle the cucumbers with Sichuan Chili Oil (right) when serving them with milder dishes like Oven-Roasted Salmon (page 000).2 (14-ounce) English cucumbers11/2 teaspoons kosher salt4 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar1 teaspoon garlic, minced to paste1 tablespoon soy sauce2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon sesame seeds, toastedSichuan Chili Oil (optional; recipe follows)1. Trim and discard ends from cucumbers. Cut each cucumber crosswise into three equal lengths. Place pieces in large zipper-lock bag and seal bag. Using small skillet or rolling pin, firmly but gently smash cucumbers until flattened and split lengthwise into 3 or 4 spears each. Tear spears into rough 1- to 11/2-inch pieces and transfer to colander set in large bowl. Toss cucumbers with salt and let stand for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes.2. While cucumbers sit, whisk vinegar and garlic together in small bowl; let stand for at least 5 minutes or up to 15 minutes.3. Whisk soy sauce, oil, and sugar into vinegar mixture until sugar has dissolved. Transfer cucumbers to medium bowl (discard any extracted liquid). Add dressing and sesame seeds to cucumbers and toss to com-bine. Serve immediately with Sichuan Chili Oil, if desired.12 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION salads and bowls 13think like a cookDIY SICHUAN CHILI OILIf you like spicy food, you should definitely add this homemade Sichuan chili oil to your pantry. We like to drizzle it over our Smashed Cucumber Salad to add an extra dimension when the salad is paired with milder dishes. It’s also great on dumplings or as a finishing oil for soups. The hallmark of Sichuan chili oil is a balance between la—the concentrated heat from dried chiles—and ma—the numbing effect of Sichuan peppercorns. Blooming the aromatics in vegetable oil builds a pun-gent base. Asian chili powder is similar to hot red pepper flakes but is milder and more finely ground. A Sichuan chili powder is preferred, but Korean red pep-per flakes, called gochugaru, are a good alternative.Sichuan Chili OilMakes about 11/2 cupsPlace 1/2 cup chili powder, 2 tablespoon sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon crushed Sichuan peppercorns, and 1/2 tea-spoon salt in heatproof bowl. Heat 1 cup vegetable oil, one 1-inch piece unpeeled ginger sliced into 1/4-inch rounds and smashed, 2 bay leaves, 3 star anise pods, 5 crushed cardamom pods, and another 1 tablespoon crushed Sichuan peppercorns in small saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until spices have darkened and mixture is very fragrant, 25 to 30 minutes. Strain oil mixture through fine-mesh strainer into bowl with chili powder mixture (it may bubble slightly); dis-card solids in strainer. Stir well to combine. Once cool, transfer mixture to airtight container and let stand for at least 12 hours before using. (Oil can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 week or refrigerated for up to 3 months.)Smashed Cucumber Salad Serves 4; Total Time 30 minuteswhy this recipe worksThis simple salad may not sound like much on paper, but its crunchy, pickle-like texture, slight acidity, and sweet-salty dressing make it a standout on the plate. Smashed cucumbers, or pai huang gua, is a Sichuan dish that is typically served with rich, spicy food. Why smash cukes? First, the irregular pieces crisp up faster during salting. They also do a better job of hanging onto dressing than clean slices. The Chinese black vinegar used in the dressing may be unfamiliar but is worth seeking out for its malty, smoky notes. (And a recipe this easy is a great way to try out a new ingredient.) If you can’t find it, substitute 2 teaspoons rice vinegar and 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. We like to drizzle the cucumbers with Sichuan Chili Oil (right) when serving them with milder dishes like Oven-Roasted Salmon (page 000).2 (14-ounce) English cucumbers11/2 teaspoons kosher salt4 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar1 teaspoon garlic, minced to paste1 tablespoon soy sauce2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon sesame seeds, toastedSichuan Chili Oil (optional; recipe follows)1. Trim and discard ends from cucumbers. Cut each cucumber crosswise into three equal lengths. Place pieces in large zipper-lock bag and seal bag. Using small skillet or rolling pin, firmly but gently smash cucumbers until flattened and split lengthwise into 3 or 4 spears each. Tear spears into rough 1- to 11/2-inch pieces and transfer to colander set in large bowl. Toss cucumbers with salt and let stand for at least 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes.2. While cucumbers sit, whisk vinegar and garlic together in small bowl; let stand for at least 5 minutes or up to 15 minutes.3. Whisk soy sauce, oil, and sugar into vinegar mixture until sugar has dissolved. Transfer cucumbers to medium bowl (discard any extracted liquid). Add dressing and sesame seeds to cucumbers and toss to com-bine. Serve immediately with Sichuan Chili Oil, if desired.14 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION sides that go with any meal 15think like a cookIS SHORTCUT SQUASH WORTH IT?Sure, it saves prep time to buy precut, prepeeled butternut squash, but we had to wonder: How does the flavor and texture of this time-saving squash stand up to a whole squash we cut up at home? Our taste tests confirmed what we suspected; whole squash you peel and cut yourself can’t be beat in terms of flavor and tex-ture. That said, when you are trying to make the most of every minute, peeled, halved squash can be an acceptable convenience product, and we found that it performed admirably in most test recipes. However, avoid precut chunks; our tasters all thought that they were dry and stringy, with barely any squash flavor.Roasted Butternut Squash with Tahini and FetaServes 6; Total Time 1 hourwhy this recipe worksWinter squashes like butternut have a tough skin and dense interior that makes them ideal for slow cooking. They are best roasted until well done, which helps develop the sweetest flavor and smoothest texture. We peel the squash to remove not only the tough outer skin but also the rugged fibrous layer of white flesh just beneath, ensuring supremely tender squash. To encourage the squash slices to car-amelize, we used a hot 425-degree oven and placed the squash on the lowest oven rack. Finally, we selected a mix of Greek- inspired toppings that added crunch, creaminess, fresh flavor, and a little sweetness: pistachios, feta, mint, and tahini spiked with honey and lemon juice. This dish can be served warm or at room temperature. 3 pounds butternut squash3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper1 tablespoon tahini11/2 teaspoons lemon juice1 teaspoon honey1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (1/4 cup)1/4 cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped fine2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Using sharp vegetable peeler or chef’s knife, remove squash skin and fibrous threads just below skin. Trim top and bottom. Cut squash in half where narrow neck and curved bottom meet, then cut both neck and base in half lengthwise to make four quarters. Scrape out seeds from base. Then slice each quarter crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick pieces.2. Toss squash with 2 tablespoons oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and arrange in rimmed baking sheet in single layer. Roast squash until sides touching sheet toward back of oven are well browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Rotate sheet and continue to roast until sides touching sheet toward back of oven are well browned, 6 to 10 minutes.3. Use metal spatula to flip each piece and continue to roast until squash is very tender and sides touching sheet are browned, 10 to 15 minutes.4. Transfer squash to serving platter. Whisk remaining 1 tablespoon oil, tahini, lemon juice, honey, and pinch salt together in bowl. Drizzle squash with tahini dressing and sprinkle with feta, pistachios, and mint. Serve.variationRoasted Butternut Squash with Goat Cheese, Pecans, and MapleInstead of tahini dressing, combine 2 tablespoons maple syrup and pinch cayenne pepper; drizzle over cooked squash. Substitute 11/2 ounces crumbled goat cheese for feta, 1/2 cup toasted, coarsely chopped pecans for pistachios, and 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves for mint.14 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION sides that go with any meal 15think like a cookIS SHORTCUT SQUASH WORTH IT?Sure, it saves prep time to buy precut, prepeeled butternut squash, but we had to wonder: How does the flavor and texture of this time-saving squash stand up to a whole squash we cut up at home? Our taste tests confirmed what we suspected; whole squash you peel and cut yourself can’t be beat in terms of flavor and tex-ture. That said, when you are trying to make the most of every minute, peeled, halved squash can be an acceptable convenience product, and we found that it performed admirably in most test recipes. However, avoid precut chunks; our tasters all thought that they were dry and stringy, with barely any squash flavor.Roasted Butternut Squash with Tahini and FetaServes 6; Total Time 1 hourwhy this recipe worksWinter squashes like butternut have a tough skin and dense interior that makes them ideal for slow cooking. They are best roasted until well done, which helps develop the sweetest flavor and smoothest texture. We peel the squash to remove not only the tough outer skin but also the rugged fibrous layer of white flesh just beneath, ensuring supremely tender squash. To encourage the squash slices to car-amelize, we used a hot 425-degree oven and placed the squash on the lowest oven rack. Finally, we selected a mix of Greek- inspired toppings that added crunch, creaminess, fresh flavor, and a little sweetness: pistachios, feta, mint, and tahini spiked with honey and lemon juice. This dish can be served warm or at room temperature. 3 pounds butternut squash3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSalt and pepper1 tablespoon tahini11/2 teaspoons lemon juice1 teaspoon honey1 ounce feta cheese, crumbled (1/4 cup)1/4 cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped fine2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Using sharp vegetable peeler or chef’s knife, remove squash skin and fibrous threads just below skin. Trim top and bottom. Cut squash in half where narrow neck and curved bottom meet, then cut both neck and base in half lengthwise to make four quarters. Scrape out seeds from base. Then slice each quarter crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick pieces.2. Toss squash with 2 tablespoons oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and arrange in rimmed baking sheet in single layer. Roast squash until sides touching sheet toward back of oven are well browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Rotate sheet and continue to roast until sides touching sheet toward back of oven are well browned, 6 to 10 minutes.3. Use metal spatula to flip each piece and continue to roast until squash is very tender and sides touching sheet are browned, 10 to 15 minutes.4. Transfer squash to serving platter. Whisk remaining 1 tablespoon oil, tahini, lemon juice, honey, and pinch salt together in bowl. Drizzle squash with tahini dressing and sprinkle with feta, pistachios, and mint. Serve.variationRoasted Butternut Squash with Goat Cheese, Pecans, and MapleInstead of tahini dressing, combine 2 tablespoons maple syrup and pinch cayenne pepper; drizzle over cooked squash. Substitute 11/2 ounces crumbled goat cheese for feta, 1/2 cup toasted, coarsely chopped pecans for pistachios, and 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves for mint.16 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION soups, stews, and chilis 17think like a cookSMOKE WITHOUT FIREYou’ve probably had food cooked over a live fire, whether it was grilled, barbecued, spit-roasted, or cooked in a fancy wood-fired oven. So you know that there’s a complexity of flavor that you only get when food cooks comes into contact with actual flames and the resulting smoke. That flavor can be hard to access in the average home kitchen; however, there are other ways to get flame-roasted flavor into your food. We have a set of shortcut ingredients that we like to use. These include the smoked paprika and canned fire-roasted tomatoes used in this soup. Both of these ingredients carry deep, smoky flavor from the way they’re prepared, and they impart that to any dish to which they’re added. Another secret ingredient we’ll deploy is liquid smoke, as in our Indoor Barbecued Spare Ribs (page 000). While it may sound like a chemi-cal additive, liquid smoke is made by channeling smoke from smoldering wood chips through a condenser, which quickly cools the vapors, causing them to liquefy (just like the drops that form when you breathe on cold glass). The water-soluble flavor compounds in the smoke are trapped within this liquid, while the nonsolu-ble tars and resins are removed by a series of filters, resulting in a clean, smoke-flavored liquid. A good ver-sion should contain nothing but smoke and water, and will lend pure smoky flavor to any dish it’s added to.Turkish Tomato, Bulgur, and Red Pepper SoupServes 6 to 8; Total Time 1 hourwhy this recipe worksThis Mediterranean-inspired take on tomato soup brings complexity and heartiness to a dish that’s often boring and lifeless. We started by softening onion and red bell peppers before building a solid backbone with garlic, tomato paste, white wine, dried mint, smoked paprika, and red pepper flakes. Canned fire-roasted tomatoes added even more smokiness and depth. We then added nutty bulgur; stirred into soup, this quick-cooking whole grain absorbs the surrounding flavors and gives off starch that creates a silky tex-ture—no cream needed. We stirred in the bulgur toward the end, giving it just enough time to become tender. A sprinkle of fresh mint gave the soup a final punch of flavor. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe.2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 onion, chopped2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and choppedSalt and pepper3 garlic cloves, minced1 teaspoon dried mint, crumbled½ teaspoon smoked paprika1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes1 tablespoon tomato paste½ cup dry white wine1 (28-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes4 cups chicken or vegetable broth2 cups water¾ cup medium-grind bulgur, rinsed1/3 cup chopped fresh mint1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell peppers, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, dried mint, smoked paprika, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute.2. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and their juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes soften and begin to break apart, about 10 minutes.3. Stir in broth, water, and bulgur and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently until bulgur is tender, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual por-tions with fresh mint.16 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION soups, stews, and chilis 17think like a cookSMOKE WITHOUT FIREYou’ve probably had food cooked over a live fire, whether it was grilled, barbecued, spit-roasted, or cooked in a fancy wood-fired oven. So you know that there’s a complexity of flavor that you only get when food cooks comes into contact with actual flames and the resulting smoke. That flavor can be hard to access in the average home kitchen; however, there are other ways to get flame-roasted flavor into your food. We have a set of shortcut ingredients that we like to use. These include the smoked paprika and canned fire-roasted tomatoes used in this soup. Both of these ingredients carry deep, smoky flavor from the way they’re prepared, and they impart that to any dish to which they’re added. Another secret ingredient we’ll deploy is liquid smoke, as in our Indoor Barbecued Spare Ribs (page 000). While it may sound like a chemi-cal additive, liquid smoke is made by channeling smoke from smoldering wood chips through a condenser, which quickly cools the vapors, causing them to liquefy (just like the drops that form when you breathe on cold glass). The water-soluble flavor compounds in the smoke are trapped within this liquid, while the nonsolu-ble tars and resins are removed by a series of filters, resulting in a clean, smoke-flavored liquid. A good ver-sion should contain nothing but smoke and water, and will lend pure smoky flavor to any dish it’s added to.Turkish Tomato, Bulgur, and Red Pepper SoupServes 6 to 8; Total Time 1 hourwhy this recipe worksThis Mediterranean-inspired take on tomato soup brings complexity and heartiness to a dish that’s often boring and lifeless. We started by softening onion and red bell peppers before building a solid backbone with garlic, tomato paste, white wine, dried mint, smoked paprika, and red pepper flakes. Canned fire-roasted tomatoes added even more smokiness and depth. We then added nutty bulgur; stirred into soup, this quick-cooking whole grain absorbs the surrounding flavors and gives off starch that creates a silky tex-ture—no cream needed. We stirred in the bulgur toward the end, giving it just enough time to become tender. A sprinkle of fresh mint gave the soup a final punch of flavor. When shopping, don’t confuse bulgur with cracked wheat, which has a much longer cooking time and will not work in this recipe.2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil1 onion, chopped2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and choppedSalt and pepper3 garlic cloves, minced1 teaspoon dried mint, crumbled½ teaspoon smoked paprika1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes1 tablespoon tomato paste½ cup dry white wine1 (28-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes4 cups chicken or vegetable broth2 cups water¾ cup medium-grind bulgur, rinsed1/3 cup chopped fresh mint1. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell peppers, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and cook until softened and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in garlic, dried mint, smoked paprika, and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute.2. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and their juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes soften and begin to break apart, about 10 minutes.3. Stir in broth, water, and bulgur and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently until bulgur is tender, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual por-tions with fresh mint.18 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION weeknight dinners 19think like a cookFOR A SAVORY BOOST, ADD PANCETTACooks love to talk about how bacon makes nearly any dish taste better. But you know what? It also makes the dish taste smokier. And while smokiness is often wel-come, it can quickly steal the show and overpower or compete with other flavors. Fortunately, there’s pan-cetta, an ingredient that has all of bacon’s rich, meaty savor without the smoke. Pancetta, an Italian pork product made from the belly of the pig, is used to add flavor and meaty depth to many Italian pasta sauces, stews, and braises. Sometimes called Italian bacon, the fatty, succulent cut is also used to make American bacon. However, while American bacon is salted, (usu-ally) sugared, and smoked, pancetta is treated with salt, black pepper, and spices and rolled into a cylinder. It is never smoked. This gives a less obtrusive element of meatiness that’s wonderful everywhere from tomato sauce to lentil soup.Pancetta is typically chopped and sautéed to crisp it and render the fat. You the remove the meat (to add back later) and add vegetables or other ingredients to cook in the savory fat. Try that before simmering your next tomato sauce or simply cooking a vegetable such as broccoli or spinach. You may decide you want to keep a chunk of pancetta in the fridge all the time.Conversely, if you only have bacon and the recipes calls for pancetta, you can blanch it to remove some (not all) of its smoky flavor: Put the bacon in boiling water for 2 minutes, then use as you would pancetta. Because blanched bacon has lost some of its fat, you may need to add extra oil to the recipe.Bucatini with Peas, Kale, and PancettaServes 4 to 6; Total Time: 45 minuteswhy this recipe worksIn a typical pasta-and-sauce dish, you cook the pasta in one pot, the sauce in another, and may even use a third for vegetables or meat. That’s a lot of pots for a “simple” dinner. This method streamlines the process by cooking the pasta directly in the sauce. By starting with just the right amount of liquid (a flavorful mix of white wine, chicken broth, and water), we ensured the pasta cooked through just as the liquid had reduced to a sauce, which we thickened with grated Parmesan. To bolster the sauce’s flavor, we first crisped chopped pancetta, then used the rendered fat to bloom lemon zest and gar-lic. Sweet peas and baby kale complemented the meaty pancetta and hollow-stranded bucatini pasta absorbed plenty of sauce. For crunchy contrast, we topped off each serving with the crisped pancetta, along with a mixture of panko, Parmesan, and lemon zest. 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs, toasted11/2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (3/4 cup)1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon grated lemon zestSalt and pepper2 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces2 garlic cloves, minced1/2 cup dry white wine21/2 cups water2 cups chicken broth1 pound bucatini or spaghetti5 ounces (5 cups) baby kale1 cup frozen peas1. Combine toasted panko, 1/4 cup Parmesan, oil, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Cook pancetta in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes; using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate.2. Add garlic and remaining 2 teaspoons zest to fat left in pot and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in water and broth, scraping up any browned bits.3. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Stir in pasta, reduce heat to medium, and simmer vigorously, stirring often, until pasta is nearly ten-der, 8 to 10 minutes.4. Stir in kale and peas and continue to simmer until pasta and kale are tender, about 4 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup Parmesan and stir vigor-ously until pasta is creamy and well coated, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with crisp pancetta and bread-crumb mixture.18 THE NEW ESSENTIALS COOKBOOKRECIPES FOR EVERY OCCASION weeknight dinners 19think like a cookFOR A SAVORY BOOST, ADD PANCETTACooks love to talk about how bacon makes nearly any dish taste better. But you know what? It also makes the dish taste smokier. And while smokiness is often wel-come, it can quickly steal the show and overpower or compete with other flavors. Fortunately, there’s pan-cetta, an ingredient that has all of bacon’s rich, meaty savor without the smoke. Pancetta, an Italian pork product made from the belly of the pig, is used to add flavor and meaty depth to many Italian pasta sauces, stews, and braises. Sometimes called Italian bacon, the fatty, succulent cut is also used to make American bacon. However, while American bacon is salted, (usu-ally) sugared, and smoked, pancetta is treated with salt, black pepper, and spices and rolled into a cylinder. It is never smoked. This gives a less obtrusive element of meatiness that’s wonderful everywhere from tomato sauce to lentil soup.Pancetta is typically chopped and sautéed to crisp it and render the fat. You the remove the meat (to add back later) and add vegetables or other ingredients to cook in the savory fat. Try that before simmering your next tomato sauce or simply cooking a vegetable such as broccoli or spinach. You may decide you want to keep a chunk of pancetta in the fridge all the time.Conversely, if you only have bacon and the recipes calls for pancetta, you can blanch it to remove some (not all) of its smoky flavor: Put the bacon in boiling water for 2 minutes, then use as you would pancetta. Because blanched bacon has lost some of its fat, you may need to add extra oil to the recipe.Bucatini with Peas, Kale, and PancettaServes 4 to 6; Total Time: 45 minuteswhy this recipe worksIn a typical pasta-and-sauce dish, you cook the pasta in one pot, the sauce in another, and may even use a third for vegetables or meat. That’s a lot of pots for a “simple” dinner. This method streamlines the process by cooking the pasta directly in the sauce. By starting with just the right amount of liquid (a flavorful mix of white wine, chicken broth, and water), we ensured the pasta cooked through just as the liquid had reduced to a sauce, which we thickened with grated Parmesan. To bolster the sauce’s flavor, we first crisped chopped pancetta, then used the rendered fat to bloom lemon zest and gar-lic. Sweet peas and baby kale complemented the meaty pancetta and hollow-stranded bucatini pasta absorbed plenty of sauce. For crunchy contrast, we topped off each serving with the crisped pancetta, along with a mixture of panko, Parmesan, and lemon zest. 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs, toasted11/2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (3/4 cup)1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon grated lemon zestSalt and pepper2 ounces pancetta, cut into 1/2-inch pieces2 garlic cloves, minced1/2 cup dry white wine21/2 cups water2 cups chicken broth1 pound bucatini or spaghetti5 ounces (5 cups) baby kale1 cup frozen peas1. Combine toasted panko, 1/4 cup Parmesan, oil, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Cook pancetta in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes; using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate.2. Add garlic and remaining 2 teaspoons zest to fat left in pot and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in water and broth, scraping up any browned bits.3. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Stir in pasta, reduce heat to medium, and simmer vigorously, stirring often, until pasta is nearly ten-der, 8 to 10 minutes.4. Stir in kale and peas and continue to simmer until pasta and kale are tender, about 4 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup Parmesan and stir vigor-ously until pasta is creamy and well coated, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with crisp pancetta and bread-crumb mixture.Next >