Introduction 9 Regional Cuisine 15 How We Eat 24 How We Cook 26 Glossary 28 Recipes The Essentials 37 Snacks 57 Salads 75 Soups and Sotos 91 Satays 107 Curries 117 Tempeh, Tofu and Vegetables 137 Fish and Seafood 159 Meat and Poultry 177 Rice and Other Staples 193 Noodles 209 Sweets 221 Drinks 241Introduction 9 Regional Cuisine 15 How We Eat 24 How We Cook 26 Glossary 28 Recipes The Essentials 37 Snacks 57 Salads 75 Soups and Sotos 91 Satays 107 Curries 117 Tempeh, Tofu and Vegetables 137 Fish and Seafood 159 Meat and Poultry 177 Rice and Other Staples 193 Noodles 209 Sweets 221 Drinks 2419 Introduction Introduction INDONESIA, Ibu Pertiwi, Mother Earth for over 270 million people and an archi pelago of 17,000 islands, is a maritime crossroads between Europe, the Middle East and the AsiaPacific. In centuries past, it was worldrenowned as The Spice Islands, the home of nutmeg, mace, and cloves (page 25). Today, it offers a fascinating and diverse cuisine with many flavours, ingredients and surprises. It is the fourthmost populous country in the world, spread over three time zones, with more than 700 local languages. Combine this national diversity in culture, food and beliefs with the outside influences of traders and travellers, and you will begin to appreciate the sheer number and variety of dishes on the Indonesian table. This book recollects my culinary journeys through Indonesia, beginning inevitably with my childhood in Manado—a distant northeast corner of Indonesia, the heart of a vast coral triangle and a centre of trade in vanilla, cloves, nutmeg, coconut products and seafood. The journey from Manado, North Sulawesi I can see it all now. My grandfather’s verdant coconut plantations set against postcardworthy volcanic mountains. Pristine beaches skirting coral reefs teeming with marine life. It’s a view that triggers memories of the food of my childhood, from mouthwatering sweet nutmeg pickle (manisan pala) to breakfasts of Banana Fritters (page 62) served alongside slices of soft white bread and chocolate sprinkles (meises), fragrant fish stews (page 170) and Sweet Corn Fritters (page 139). Tropical seas surround Manado, so naturally, one of my favourite foods is fish. We love to barbecue and serve it with dabudabu, a relish of fresh tomatoes, shallots, chillies, calamansi and mint (page 139). This and many other Manadonese recipes are a world away from the most ubiquitous Indonesian dishes such as Chicken Satay (page 111), Nasi Goreng (page 199) and Beef Rendang (page 130). For instance, in Manado, we have the delightful fish stew with fresh root spices and herbs (ikan woku blanga) and a braised chicken dish with spices, herbs and coconut ( ayam tuturuga, page 121). We also have the cuisine of the Peranakan, descendants of early Chinese migrants who married locally. National favourites Sweet Coconut and Pandan Pancakes (page 61), fresh Spring Rolls (page 70) and Pineapple Biscuits (page 235). Historic Dutch influences are very much part of mealtimes in Manado and especially in my family, as my paternal grandmother was halfDutch. There’s klapertart, a pudding made with young coconut, vanilla custard, rum, raisin and almonds and topped with cinnamon dust. We also have Cheese Sticks (page 236) and the heartwarming brenebon soup (page 98), which combines kidney beans with nutmeg, cloves, spring onions (scallions) and pork. 9 Introduction Introduction INDONESIA, Ibu Pertiwi, Mother Earth for over 270 million people and an archi pelago of 17,000 islands, is a maritime crossroads between Europe, the Middle East and the AsiaPacific. In centuries past, it was worldrenowned as The Spice Islands, the home of nutmeg, mace, and cloves (page 25). Today, it offers a fascinating and diverse cuisine with many flavours, ingredients and surprises. It is the fourthmost populous country in the world, spread over three time zones, with more than 700 local languages. Combine this national diversity in culture, food and beliefs with the outside influences of traders and travellers, and you will begin to appreciate the sheer number and variety of dishes on the Indonesian table. This book recollects my culinary journeys through Indonesia, beginning inevitably with my childhood in Manado—a distant northeast corner of Indonesia, the heart of a vast coral triangle and a centre of trade in vanilla, cloves, nutmeg, coconut products and seafood. The journey from Manado, North Sulawesi I can see it all now. My grandfather’s verdant coconut plantations set against postcardworthy volcanic mountains. Pristine beaches skirting coral reefs teeming with marine life. It’s a view that triggers memories of the food of my childhood, from mouthwatering sweet nutmeg pickle (manisan pala) to breakfasts of Banana Fritters (page 62) served alongside slices of soft white bread and chocolate sprinkles (meises), fragrant fish stews (page 170) and Sweet Corn Fritters (page 139). Tropical seas surround Manado, so naturally, one of my favourite foods is fish. We love to barbecue and serve it with dabudabu, a relish of fresh tomatoes, shallots, chillies, calamansi and mint (page 139). This and many other Manadonese recipes are a world away from the most ubiquitous Indonesian dishes such as Chicken Satay (page 111), Nasi Goreng (page 199) and Beef Rendang (page 130). For instance, in Manado, we have the delightful fish stew with fresh root spices and herbs (ikan woku blanga) and a braised chicken dish with spices, herbs and coconut ( ayam tuturuga, page 121). We also have the cuisine of the Peranakan, descendants of early Chinese migrants who married locally. National favourites Sweet Coconut and Pandan Pancakes (page 61), fresh Spring Rolls (page 70) and Pineapple Biscuits (page 235). Historic Dutch influences are very much part of mealtimes in Manado and especially in my family, as my paternal grandmother was halfDutch. There’s klapertart, a pudding made with young coconut, vanilla custard, rum, raisin and almonds and topped with cinnamon dust. We also have Cheese Sticks (page 236) and the heartwarming brenebon soup (page 98), which combines kidney beans with nutmeg, cloves, spring onions (scallions) and pork. 47 The Essentials Sambals Serves 4–6 * ½ teaspoon shrimp paste or 2 canned anchovies, plus extra if needed * 2 banana shallots, thinly sliced * Salt, to season * 2–3 tablespoons coconut oil or sunflower oil * 5 lime leaves, centre stem removed and thinly sliced * 3 stalks lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced * 1–2 red bird’s eye chillies, thinly sliced * 2 cloves garlic, grated * Juice of 2 limes Dryroast the shrimp paste in a small frying pan over mediumhigh heat for 2–3 minutes. Using a pestle and mortar, grind finely and set aside. Using your fingertips, rub the shallots with ¼ teaspoon of salt for 2–3 minutes to soften. Heat the oil in the same frying pan over medium heat. Turn off the heat. Add all the ingredients and mix well. Season to taste with more salt or shrimp paste. Variation: - Chilli and Lemongrass Sambal with Ginger Flower (Sambal matah deangan kecombrang) Add 1 small finely chopped ginger flower bud with the other ingredients. Chilli and Lemongrass Sambal Sambal matah Fragrant, spicy and tangy, this versatile Balinese sambal makes a delicious accompaniment for Seafood Satay (page 108). In Indonesia, sambals are either raw (sambal mentah) or cooked (sambal matang). The foundation of sambal couldn't be any simpler – all you need is chilli and salt. You can build the complexity of flavour by adding aromatics such as garlic and shallots, fresh herbs, tempeh, fermented shrimp paste, soy sauce or dried (ikan teri) or canned anchovies. Cooked sambal is prepared by boiling or frying the chillies and introducing umami through shrimp paste or salted fish. Lime juice, tamarind or vinegar add much needed acidity to brighten up the sambals. We always prepare our cooked sambals with coconut oil, reaping its myriad benefits in both nutrients and taste. However, coconut oil does solidify at a room temperature below 20ºC/68ºF, so I swap it out for sunflower oil here in the UK. And while sambals generally act as condiments for noodles, satays and rice dishes, some sambal varieties can be used in dish recipes such as Sambal Tempeh (page 151) and PanSeared Duck Breast with Soy Sambal (page 183). Sambals can be stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator for 1 week, except for those with tomatoes, which should be stored for 2 days. Makes 10 g/¼ oz (generous 1 tablespoon) * 2–4 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped or ground * 1 tablespoon salt Combine the ingredients and mix well. Chilli and Salt Sambal Sambal garam This very basic sambal can be served as a dip with fresh tropical fruits, but it also makes a flavourful seasoning for roast chicken. Simply rub the inside and outside of the chicken with the chilli salt, add the juice of 2 limes all over and brush with 2 tablespoons of melted coconut oil. 47 The Essentials Sambals Serves 4–6 * ½ teaspoon shrimp paste or 2 canned anchovies, plus extra if needed * 2 banana shallots, thinly sliced * Salt, to season * 2–3 tablespoons coconut oil or sunflower oil * 5 lime leaves, centre stem removed and thinly sliced * 3 stalks lemongrass, white part only, thinly sliced * 1–2 red bird’s eye chillies, thinly sliced * 2 cloves garlic, grated * Juice of 2 limes Dryroast the shrimp paste in a small frying pan over mediumhigh heat for 2–3 minutes. Using a pestle and mortar, grind finely and set aside. Using your fingertips, rub the shallots with ¼ teaspoon of salt for 2–3 minutes to soften. Heat the oil in the same frying pan over medium heat. Turn off the heat. Add all the ingredients and mix well. Season to taste with more salt or shrimp paste. Variation: - Chilli and Lemongrass Sambal with Ginger Flower (Sambal matah deangan kecombrang) Add 1 small finely chopped ginger flower bud with the other ingredients. Chilli and Lemongrass Sambal Sambal matah Fragrant, spicy and tangy, this versatile Balinese sambal makes a delicious accompaniment for Seafood Satay (page 108). In Indonesia, sambals are either raw (sambal mentah) or cooked (sambal matang). The foundation of sambal couldn't be any simpler – all you need is chilli and salt. You can build the complexity of flavour by adding aromatics such as garlic and shallots, fresh herbs, tempeh, fermented shrimp paste, soy sauce or dried (ikan teri) or canned anchovies. Cooked sambal is prepared by boiling or frying the chillies and introducing umami through shrimp paste or salted fish. Lime juice, tamarind or vinegar add much needed acidity to brighten up the sambals. We always prepare our cooked sambals with coconut oil, reaping its myriad benefits in both nutrients and taste. However, coconut oil does solidify at a room temperature below 20ºC/68ºF, so I swap it out for sunflower oil here in the UK. And while sambals generally act as condiments for noodles, satays and rice dishes, some sambal varieties can be used in dish recipes such as Sambal Tempeh (page 151) and PanSeared Duck Breast with Soy Sambal (page 183). Sambals can be stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator for 1 week, except for those with tomatoes, which should be stored for 2 days. Makes 10 g/¼ oz (generous 1 tablespoon) * 2–4 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped or ground * 1 tablespoon salt Combine the ingredients and mix well. Chilli and Salt Sambal Sambal garam This very basic sambal can be served as a dip with fresh tropical fruits, but it also makes a flavourful seasoning for roast chicken. Simply rub the inside and outside of the chicken with the chilli salt, add the juice of 2 limes all over and brush with 2 tablespoons of melted coconut oil. 57 Snacks The Manondese love their food and love to eat. Thanks to a lively and joyful upbringing in a large family, my childhood was filled with gatherings and memories of many varied snacks served for such occasions. Sweet snacks included Europeanstyle cakes, Chinese and Perankaninfluenced confections, Banana Fritters (page 62) served with spicy smoked garfish sambal ( sambal roa) and the popular bak pao bao buns with red beans and black sesame paste. When it came to savoury treats, we’d often have stuffed pasties (page 70) and empanadas filled with smoked tuna, grated young papaya and chillies (page 63) at our table. On relocating to the capital city of Jakarta in my early teens, there were plenty of new snacks to sample. Some were made with sticky glutinous rice, mung bean flour or agar agar; others were sweetened with palm sugar or grated coconut. This is where I discovered triangular patties of rice filled with palm sugar grated coconut (lupis), croquettes and mashed cassava flavoured with chocolate, vanilla or strawberry with freshly grated coconut ( pgetuk lindri). However, my goto was the sweet rice ball filled with mung bean paste and rolled in white sesame seeds known as klepon (page 58), which I would often enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea at breakfast or a late lunch. (We Indonesians are nothing if not flexible when it comes to eating times.) The snacks in this chapter are some of my favourites, and I hope you enjoy them as much as I do. It brings to mind the Indonesian word oleholeh, a term we use when sharing gifts with family and friends. Jajanan Pasar Snacks57 Snacks The Manondese love their food and love to eat. Thanks to a lively and joyful upbringing in a large family, my childhood was filled with gatherings and memories of many varied snacks served for such occasions. Sweet snacks included Europeanstyle cakes, Chinese and Perankaninfluenced confections, Banana Fritters (page 62) served with spicy smoked garfish sambal ( sambal roa) and the popular bak pao bao buns with red beans and black sesame paste. When it came to savoury treats, we’d often have stuffed pasties (page 70) and empanadas filled with smoked tuna, grated young papaya and chillies (page 63) at our table. On relocating to the capital city of Jakarta in my early teens, there were plenty of new snacks to sample. Some were made with sticky glutinous rice, mung bean flour or agar agar; others were sweetened with palm sugar or grated coconut. This is where I discovered triangular patties of rice filled with palm sugar grated coconut (lupis), croquettes and mashed cassava flavoured with chocolate, vanilla or strawberry with freshly grated coconut ( pgetuk lindri). However, my goto was the sweet rice ball filled with mung bean paste and rolled in white sesame seeds known as klepon (page 58), which I would often enjoy with a cup of coffee or tea at breakfast or a late lunch. (We Indonesians are nothing if not flexible when it comes to eating times.) The snacks in this chapter are some of my favourites, and I hope you enjoy them as much as I do. It brings to mind the Indonesian word oleholeh, a term we use when sharing gifts with family and friends. Jajanan Pasar SnacksNext >