< PreviousSnacks 70 Pasty with Vegetables and Rice Noodles Pastel sayuran dan bi hun This distant cousin of the Empanada (page 63) has an entirely different pastry texture and filling. Pasties were introduced to Indonesia by the Portuguese and eventually made with local ingredients. (Interestingly, the noodle filling in this vegetarian recipe has Chinese influences.) You will find pasties in big cities around the archipelago. Tradition has them deepfried, but this version is baked with beautiful results. It is best enjoyed with Peanut Sambal (page 52), which I also love to serve with Siomay (page 64). I simply love the sambal connection around Indonesia. To make the pastry, put the flour and sugar into a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment. Mix well. Add the egg, butter and margarine. Gradually pour in 110 ml/3¾ fl oz (scant ½ cup) of hot water, little by little, until a dough forms. Transfer the dough to a chopping (cutting) board and divide it into 8 portions. Wrap each piece in baking (parchment) paper and chill for 1 hour. To make the filling, prepare the dried noodles according to the package directions. Drain, then cut the noodles into 5cm/2inch lengths. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and sauté for 7–8 minutes until softened. Add the potatoes and sauté for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water, season with salt and pepper and cook for another 10 minutes until the potatoes are soft and most of the water has evaporated. Add the carrots and green beans and cook for another minute. Stir in the noodles. If the mixture is too dry, add 1 tablespoon of water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add spring onions (scallions) and parsley and mix well. Leave to cool. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking sheet with baking (parchment) paper. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and set it aside for 5 minutes. Dust a clean work counter and rolling pin with flour. Roll a portion to a thickness of 3 mm/⅛ inch. Using a ramekin, about 12 cm/ 4½ inches in diameter, mark out a circle. Gather the leftover pastry and make another round. Repeat with the remaining portions. Makes 16–18 rounds in total. Dust the pastry round with flour and put 2 tablespoons of filling in the middle of each one. Brush the edges of a pastry with egg, then fold in half over the filling and crimp the edges to form a halfmoon shape. Place the pasty on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pasties. Brush the pasties with egg. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3 and bake for another 15–17 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm with peanut sambal. Variations: - South Sulawesi-Style Pasty (Jalangkote) Omit the green beans. Replace the potato mixture with 150 g/5½ oz (2⁄3 cup) grated green papaya and 100 g/3½ oz (generous 1 cup) of finely shredded cabbage. Substitute 50 g/1¾ oz (¼ cup) bean sprouts for the glass noodles. Heat sunflower oil in a deep saucepan over medium heat. The oil is ready when a cube of bread dropped in sizzles on contact and turns golden in 10–15 seconds. (Alternatively, use a thermometer and heat to 160°C/325°F.) Deepfry pasties in hot oil for 3–4 minutes until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Serve warm with Boiled Sambal (page 53). - Spring Rolls (Lumpia goreng) Transform the pasties into spring rolls (lumpia goreng) with shopbought wrappers. Simply put 2 tablespoons of filling along the edge of the spring roll wrapper nearest you. Brush the edges with egg wash or simply dilute 1 tablespoon of rice flour with 3 tablespoons water for vegan. Roll the spring roll tautly, tucking in the edges. Repeat until all the filling is used. Deepfry in hot oil, about 160°C/325°F, for 3–4 minutes, turning frequently, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Serve warm with Sriracha (page 54). Origin: Throughout Indonesia Preparation time: 40 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling time Cooking time: 45–50 minutes Makes 16–18 For the pastry: * 450 g/1 lb (scant 4 cups) plain (allpurpose) flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting * 1 tablespoon sugar * 1 egg, lightly beaten * 125 g/4¼ oz salted butter, room temperature * 125 g/4¼ oz margarine, room temperature For the filling: * 50 g/1¾ oz dried glass or rice noodles * 2 tablespoons sunflower oil * 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2–3 banana shallots, finely chopped * 2 potatoes, cut into ½cm/ ¼inch cubes * Salt and white pepper, to taste * 5 carrots, grated (12⁄3 cups) * 75 g/2¾ oz green beans, thinly sliced * 2 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced * Small bunch of parsley, leaves only, chopped * 1 egg, lightly beaten, for brushing * 1 quantity Peanut Sambal (page 52)Snacks 70 Pasty with Vegetables and Rice Noodles Pastel sayuran dan bi hun This distant cousin of the Empanada (page 63) has an entirely different pastry texture and filling. Pasties were introduced to Indonesia by the Portuguese and eventually made with local ingredients. (Interestingly, the noodle filling in this vegetarian recipe has Chinese influences.) You will find pasties in big cities around the archipelago. Tradition has them deepfried, but this version is baked with beautiful results. It is best enjoyed with Peanut Sambal (page 52), which I also love to serve with Siomay (page 64). I simply love the sambal connection around Indonesia. To make the pastry, put the flour and sugar into a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment. Mix well. Add the egg, butter and margarine. Gradually pour in 110 ml/3¾ fl oz (scant ½ cup) of hot water, little by little, until a dough forms. Transfer the dough to a chopping (cutting) board and divide it into 8 portions. Wrap each piece in baking (parchment) paper and chill for 1 hour. To make the filling, prepare the dried noodles according to the package directions. Drain, then cut the noodles into 5cm/2inch lengths. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and sauté for 7–8 minutes until softened. Add the potatoes and sauté for 2–3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water, season with salt and pepper and cook for another 10 minutes until the potatoes are soft and most of the water has evaporated. Add the carrots and green beans and cook for another minute. Stir in the noodles. If the mixture is too dry, add 1 tablespoon of water. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add spring onions (scallions) and parsley and mix well. Leave to cool. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking sheet with baking (parchment) paper. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and set it aside for 5 minutes. Dust a clean work counter and rolling pin with flour. Roll a portion to a thickness of 3 mm/⅛ inch. Using a ramekin, about 12 cm/ 4½ inches in diameter, mark out a circle. Gather the leftover pastry and make another round. Repeat with the remaining portions. Makes 16–18 rounds in total. Dust the pastry round with flour and put 2 tablespoons of filling in the middle of each one. Brush the edges of a pastry with egg, then fold in half over the filling and crimp the edges to form a halfmoon shape. Place the pasty on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pasties. Brush the pasties with egg. Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3 and bake for another 15–17 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm with peanut sambal. Variations: - South Sulawesi-Style Pasty (Jalangkote) Omit the green beans. Replace the potato mixture with 150 g/5½ oz (2⁄3 cup) grated green papaya and 100 g/3½ oz (generous 1 cup) of finely shredded cabbage. Substitute 50 g/1¾ oz (¼ cup) bean sprouts for the glass noodles. Heat sunflower oil in a deep saucepan over medium heat. The oil is ready when a cube of bread dropped in sizzles on contact and turns golden in 10–15 seconds. (Alternatively, use a thermometer and heat to 160°C/325°F.) Deepfry pasties in hot oil for 3–4 minutes until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Serve warm with Boiled Sambal (page 53). - Spring Rolls (Lumpia goreng) Transform the pasties into spring rolls (lumpia goreng) with shopbought wrappers. Simply put 2 tablespoons of filling along the edge of the spring roll wrapper nearest you. Brush the edges with egg wash or simply dilute 1 tablespoon of rice flour with 3 tablespoons water for vegan. Roll the spring roll tautly, tucking in the edges. Repeat until all the filling is used. Deepfry in hot oil, about 160°C/325°F, for 3–4 minutes, turning frequently, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Serve warm with Sriracha (page 54). Origin: Throughout Indonesia Preparation time: 40 minutes, plus 1 hour chilling time Cooking time: 45–50 minutes Makes 16–18 For the pastry: * 450 g/1 lb (scant 4 cups) plain (allpurpose) flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting * 1 tablespoon sugar * 1 egg, lightly beaten * 125 g/4¼ oz salted butter, room temperature * 125 g/4¼ oz margarine, room temperature For the filling: * 50 g/1¾ oz dried glass or rice noodles * 2 tablespoons sunflower oil * 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2–3 banana shallots, finely chopped * 2 potatoes, cut into ½cm/ ¼inch cubes * Salt and white pepper, to taste * 5 carrots, grated (12⁄3 cups) * 75 g/2¾ oz green beans, thinly sliced * 2 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced * Small bunch of parsley, leaves only, chopped * 1 egg, lightly beaten, for brushing * 1 quantity Peanut Sambal (page 52)103 Soups and Sotos Chicken Soto with Turmeric and Lemongrass Soto ayam lamongan This is my ultimate comfort food, especially when it's a grey day in England. The explosion of flavours and textures brings a smile to my world. Nearly every culture around the archipelago, and the world for that matter, has its version of chicken soup and chicken noodle soup. Layered with flavour, this light dish captures both. Here, we have a clear broth with turmeric, lemongrass and glass noodles or rice vermicelli, making this dish gluten free and dairyfree! Additional toppings, a touch of lime juice and spoons of sambal make it even more flavoursome. In some regions, coconut milk is added. To make the soto, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the spice paste and sauté for 3–4 minutes. Add the chicken and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the lime leaves, lemongrass and 1.5 litres/50 fl oz (6¼ cups) of water. Season with salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to mediumlow. Simmer for 45 minutes, skimming any scum from the surface with a ladle. Meanwhile, prepare the dried noodles according to the package directions. Drain, then transfer to a bowl of cold water. Drain again, then set aside. Put the eggs, if using, into a small saucepan of water. Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking process. When cool enough to handle, peel the eggs and cut them in half. Transfer the chicken to a chopping (cutting) board and let cool. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat away from the bone and cut into bitesize pieces. Set aside. Put the noodles into bowls. Add the tomatoes, cabbage, bean sprouts and chicken. Ladle 2–3 spoons of ladles of hot broth into the bowls. Sprinkle with Chinese celery and koya. Add half an egg and a lime slice to each bowl. Serve with sambal and lime wedges on the side. Variations: - Chicken Soto Banjar (Soto Banjar) Replace the yellow spice paste with White Spice Paste (page 25). When frying the paste, add 3 green cardamom pods, 2 star anise, 1 (5cm/2inch) cinnamon stick and 1 teaspoon each of ground nutmeg and clove. Omit the koya. - Jakarta-Style Soto (Soto mie Jakarta) Replace the yellow spice paste with White Spice Paste (page 25). Replace the chicken with beef topside (top round) or cheeks and cook for 1½ hours, or until the beef is tender. Replace the rice noodles with egg noodles. Omit the koya and egg. Serve with Boiled Sambal (page 53) and Spring Rolls (page 70). Origin: Java Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes Serves 8 For the soto: * 1 tablespoon sunflower oil * ½ quantity Yellow Spice Paste (page 25) * 1 (1.2kg/2 lb 12oz) chicken, cut into 8 pieces and skin removed * 4 lime leaves, torn * 2 stalks lemongrass, crushed * Salt, to season * 200 g/7 oz dried rice vermicelli or glass noodles For the toppings: * 4 eggs (optional) * 2 large tomatoes, seeded and cut into ½cm/¼inch cubes * 150 g/5½ oz (1½ cups) shredded cabbage * 3 tablespoons bean sprouts * 3 tablespoons chopped Chinese celery or celery leaves * 4 tablespoons Koya (page 35) * 6 slices lime, halved, plus extra wedges to serve * 1 quantity Boiled Sambal (page 53), to serve 103 Soups and Sotos Chicken Soto with Turmeric and Lemongrass Soto ayam lamongan This is my ultimate comfort food, especially when it's a grey day in England. The explosion of flavours and textures brings a smile to my world. Nearly every culture around the archipelago, and the world for that matter, has its version of chicken soup and chicken noodle soup. Layered with flavour, this light dish captures both. Here, we have a clear broth with turmeric, lemongrass and glass noodles or rice vermicelli, making this dish gluten free and dairyfree! Additional toppings, a touch of lime juice and spoons of sambal make it even more flavoursome. In some regions, coconut milk is added. To make the soto, heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the spice paste and sauté for 3–4 minutes. Add the chicken and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the lime leaves, lemongrass and 1.5 litres/50 fl oz (6¼ cups) of water. Season with salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce the heat to mediumlow. Simmer for 45 minutes, skimming any scum from the surface with a ladle. Meanwhile, prepare the dried noodles according to the package directions. Drain, then transfer to a bowl of cold water. Drain again, then set aside. Put the eggs, if using, into a small saucepan of water. Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking process. When cool enough to handle, peel the eggs and cut them in half. Transfer the chicken to a chopping (cutting) board and let cool. When cool enough to handle, pull the meat away from the bone and cut into bitesize pieces. Set aside. Put the noodles into bowls. Add the tomatoes, cabbage, bean sprouts and chicken. Ladle 2–3 spoons of ladles of hot broth into the bowls. Sprinkle with Chinese celery and koya. Add half an egg and a lime slice to each bowl. Serve with sambal and lime wedges on the side. Variations: - Chicken Soto Banjar (Soto Banjar) Replace the yellow spice paste with White Spice Paste (page 25). When frying the paste, add 3 green cardamom pods, 2 star anise, 1 (5cm/2inch) cinnamon stick and 1 teaspoon each of ground nutmeg and clove. Omit the koya. - Jakarta-Style Soto (Soto mie Jakarta) Replace the yellow spice paste with White Spice Paste (page 25). Replace the chicken with beef topside (top round) or cheeks and cook for 1½ hours, or until the beef is tender. Replace the rice noodles with egg noodles. Omit the koya and egg. Serve with Boiled Sambal (page 53) and Spring Rolls (page 70). Origin: Java Preparation time: 25 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes Serves 8 For the soto: * 1 tablespoon sunflower oil * ½ quantity Yellow Spice Paste (page 25) * 1 (1.2kg/2 lb 12oz) chicken, cut into 8 pieces and skin removed * 4 lime leaves, torn * 2 stalks lemongrass, crushed * Salt, to season * 200 g/7 oz dried rice vermicelli or glass noodles For the toppings: * 4 eggs (optional) * 2 large tomatoes, seeded and cut into ½cm/¼inch cubes * 150 g/5½ oz (1½ cups) shredded cabbage * 3 tablespoons bean sprouts * 3 tablespoons chopped Chinese celery or celery leaves * 4 tablespoons Koya (page 35) * 6 slices lime, halved, plus extra wedges to serve * 1 quantity Boiled Sambal (page 53), to serve 197 Rice and Other Staples Village Fried Rice Nasi goreng kampung Nasi goreng is at the heart of every village (kampung) in Indonesia. My Oma never let food go to waste, so this rice dish made a popular breakfast option at home. If we didn’t have dayold rice to hand, she would cool down freshly cooked rice at room temperature. A good nasi goreng should be light, colourful and fluffy with separated rice grains. The most affordable versions of this dish have a base of chillies, shallots, garlic and eggs. From here, you can build flavour with additional protein such as chicken or prawns. Or add a bounty of vegetables – such as grated carrots and peas – for a nutritious and wellbalanced meal. Generally, you would serve a sambal alongside the dish, but I like to lace it with chillies for a fiery kick. With respect to tradition, I also serve nasi goreng with rice crackers for an extra boost of texture and flavour. Finely grind the shrimp paste with a pestle and mortar. Set aside. Crack 2 eggs into a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok or frying pan over medium heat. Add the eggs and scramble for 2–3 minutes, taking care not to overcook. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Heat another tablespoon of oil in the same wok. Add the chillies, garlic and shallot and sauté for 4–5 minutes. Add the shrimp paste, mix well and cook for another 2 minutes. Stir in the rice and scrambled eggs. Mix in the soy sauces and sauté for another 6–8 minutes, using a fork to separate rice grains and break up any lumps. Add the pak choy, if using, and half of the carrots and sauté for 2 minutes. If needed, add a tablespoon of water if the mixture looks dry. Season to taste. Reduce the heat to low heat. Stir in the peas. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the wok over medium heat. Add the remaining 4 eggs and cook for 3–4 minutes for sunnyside up. Divide the fried rice between 4 serving plates and garnish with the remaining grated carrots. Add an egg to each plate and finish with rice crackers. Serve immediately. Variation: - Chicken and Prawn Fried Goreng (Nasi goreng ayam dan udang) Add 2 cooked chicken breasts, chopped, and 100 g/3½ oz cooked tiger prawns (jumbo shrimp) with the rice and eggs. Serve with Mixed Pickles (page 48). Origin: Throughout Indonesia Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20–25 minutes Serves 4 * 1 teaspoon shrimp paste or 2–3 tablespoons fish sauce * 6 eggs (divided) * Salt and black pepper, to taste * 3 tablespoons coconut oil (divided) * 2–3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped * 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 large banana shallot, thinly sliced * 800 g/1 lb 12 oz (4½ cups) dayold cooked rice, room temperature * 4 tablespoons Sweet Soy Sauce (page 37) * 2 tablespoons light soy sauce * 2–4 pak choy, sliced (optional) * 2 carrots, grated (divided) * 100 g/3½ oz (2⁄3 cup) frozen peas * Rice Crackers (page 35) or prawn crackers (optional) 197 Rice and Other Staples Village Fried Rice Nasi goreng kampung Nasi goreng is at the heart of every village (kampung) in Indonesia. My Oma never let food go to waste, so this rice dish made a popular breakfast option at home. If we didn’t have dayold rice to hand, she would cool down freshly cooked rice at room temperature. A good nasi goreng should be light, colourful and fluffy with separated rice grains. The most affordable versions of this dish have a base of chillies, shallots, garlic and eggs. From here, you can build flavour with additional protein such as chicken or prawns. Or add a bounty of vegetables – such as grated carrots and peas – for a nutritious and wellbalanced meal. Generally, you would serve a sambal alongside the dish, but I like to lace it with chillies for a fiery kick. With respect to tradition, I also serve nasi goreng with rice crackers for an extra boost of texture and flavour. Finely grind the shrimp paste with a pestle and mortar. Set aside. Crack 2 eggs into a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok or frying pan over medium heat. Add the eggs and scramble for 2–3 minutes, taking care not to overcook. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Heat another tablespoon of oil in the same wok. Add the chillies, garlic and shallot and sauté for 4–5 minutes. Add the shrimp paste, mix well and cook for another 2 minutes. Stir in the rice and scrambled eggs. Mix in the soy sauces and sauté for another 6–8 minutes, using a fork to separate rice grains and break up any lumps. Add the pak choy, if using, and half of the carrots and sauté for 2 minutes. If needed, add a tablespoon of water if the mixture looks dry. Season to taste. Reduce the heat to low heat. Stir in the peas. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the wok over medium heat. Add the remaining 4 eggs and cook for 3–4 minutes for sunnyside up. Divide the fried rice between 4 serving plates and garnish with the remaining grated carrots. Add an egg to each plate and finish with rice crackers. Serve immediately. Variation: - Chicken and Prawn Fried Goreng (Nasi goreng ayam dan udang) Add 2 cooked chicken breasts, chopped, and 100 g/3½ oz cooked tiger prawns (jumbo shrimp) with the rice and eggs. Serve with Mixed Pickles (page 48). Origin: Throughout Indonesia Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20–25 minutes Serves 4 * 1 teaspoon shrimp paste or 2–3 tablespoons fish sauce * 6 eggs (divided) * Salt and black pepper, to taste * 3 tablespoons coconut oil (divided) * 2–3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped * 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 large banana shallot, thinly sliced * 800 g/1 lb 12 oz (4½ cups) dayold cooked rice, room temperature * 4 tablespoons Sweet Soy Sauce (page 37) * 2 tablespoons light soy sauce * 2–4 pak choy, sliced (optional) * 2 carrots, grated (divided) * 100 g/3½ oz (2⁄3 cup) frozen peas * Rice Crackers (page 35) or prawn crackers (optional) Phaidon Press Limited 2 Cooperage Yard London E15 2QR Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10012 phaidon.com First published 2023 © 2023 Phaidon Press Limited ISBN: 978 1 8386 6628 6 Author Petty Pandean-Elliott is an award-winning Indonesian chef, writer, entrepreneur, philanthropist and author of several bestselling Indonesian cookbooks. Petty was a judge for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and World’s 50 Best Restaurants (2016 and 2017) and a guest judge on ‘Indonesian Iron Chef’ (2017). She was featured in ’Where Chefs Eat’ published in 2018 by Phaidon and regarded as one of Indonesia’s most powerful women by The Peak magazine (2015). Key selling points The book includes an introduction to Indonesian food culture while personal stories reveal the rich history and inspiration behind each recipe in an informative and evocative manner - Features iconic Indonesian dishes such as fiery chilli sambal, grilled chicken satay and beef rendang, which has been regarded as the ‘world’s most delicious dish’. Regional specialities include fragrant coconut curries, savoury laksas, fortifying sotos and traditional desserts - Many of the delicious yet accessible recipes have been adapted for homecooks, prepared with local ingredients and simple cooking methods - Pandean-Elliott is a member of The Guild of Food Writers UK and has written for the national airline Garuda Indonesia, the Four Seasons International Hotel Group magazine, the Jakarta Globe Newspaper, Now Jakarta and Wanderlust magazine. She serves on the national board of the Duke of Edinburgh Awards for Indonesia - Stunning images of recipes and Indonesian culture by London- based lifestyle photographer Yuki Sugiura SUMATRA KALIMANTAN MAL AYSIAMAL AYSIA BRUNEIBRUNEI SING APORESING APORE THAIL ANDTHAIL AND CAMBODIACAMBODIAVIETNAMVIETNAM MAL AYSIAMAL AYSIA PHILIPPINESPHILIPPINES PAL AUPAL AU TIMOR-LESTETIMOR-LESTE AUSTRALIAAUSTRALIA Map of Map of IndonesiaIndonesia SIMEULUESIMEULUE NIASNIAS SULAWESI PAPUABURUBURU LAUFLAUF MUNA BUTONBUTON WETARWETAR ALORALOR BABARBABAR KAPULAUAN KAPULAUAN TANIMBARTANIMBAR KEPULAUAN KEPULAUAN LINGGALINGGA KAPULAUAN KAPULAUAN ARUARU KEPULAUAN KEPULAUAN TALAUDTALAUD CERAMCERAM ROTIROTI TIMOR SUMBA LOMBOKLOMBOK MADURAMADURA FLORES SUMBAWASUMBAWA BIAKBIAK YAPENYAPEN MISOOLMISOOL SANGIHESANGIHE MOROTAIMOROTAI HALMAHERAHALMAHERA WAIGEOWAIGEO OBIOBI JAVA º Jakarta º Serang º Tanjung Pinang º Pangkal Pinang º Jambi º Palembang º Pontianak º Bengkulu º Padang º Pkenbaru º Banda Aceh º Medan º Bandung º Semarang º Yogyakarta º Surabaya º Denpasar º Manado º Gorontalo º Sofifi º Sarong º Manokwari º Palu º Mamuju º Kendari º Makassar º Ambon º Palangkaraya º Kupang BALIBALI IND IAN OCE AN IND IAN OCE AN CE LEB ES SEA CE LEB ES SEA PACIFIC OCEAN PACIFIC OCEAN ARAFURA SEAARAFURA SEA JAVA SEA JAVA SEA BANDA SEA BANDA SEA TIM OR SEA TIM OR SEA SIBERUTSIBERUT NATUNA BESARNATUNA BESAR BILLITONBILLITON MILES1252500 1252500KM 2322Introduction The Spice Island Tucked away in the heart of Indonesia are a scatter of islands collectively known as The Spice Islands, the largest producers of mace, nutmeg and cloves in the world. The string of islands in the provinces of Maluku and North Maluku have been cultivating cloves for hundreds of years. Travel 400 miles (645 km) south to the Banda archipelago, and you’ll find the home of nutmeg. In fact, on the island of Banda Besar, you can walk under giant canopies of ancient kenari trees, some said to be 400 years old, shading the smaller nutmeg trees while themselves yielding local wild almonds, often featured in local coffee, nougat with palm sugar syrup and young coconut tart known as klapertart. Mace is more valuable compared to nut of nutmeg nowadays as one nutmeg whole fruit produce only one thread of mace. Interestingly, the people of Banda used plenty of fresh mace to cook fish soup. The Spice Islands gained fame after Portuguese traders brought the indigenous spices to their European homeland in the early sixteenth century. Unknown to many, the beautiful Banda Islands made significant contributions to shaping the world of modern trading and cuisine. In 1667, the Dutch saw the inordinate value of spices on a global scale. Under the Treaty of Breda with the British, they acquired the island of Run and the nutmeg monopoly, in exchange for Manhattan Island (or New York). This deal meant little, even less today, for the islanders themselves as most continue to live by subsistence farming and fishing in a place barely visible on a map. These spices were all part of my childhood. I grew up with sweet or spicy pickled nutmeg fruit, manisan pala, a pork dish with young nutmeg and clove leaves and spekulas cookies. Whether used individually or as part of a blend, these spices have made an indelible mark on global cuisine and played a dominant role in kitchens the world over – from Chinese five-spice and Indian garam masala t0 North African ras el hanout and baharat to the French quatre epices and Dutch speculaas (page xxx). 2524 Introduction Food is very personal to Indonesians. There is the food for the ceremony, food we cook and eat at our family table and with friends and the pleasure of eating out in restaurants or street-side warungs and food for special occasions. Each is different in the way we approach and enjoy it. When meeting a friend, work colleague or family member, it is typical to ask, ‘Sudah makan belum,’ meaning ‘Have you eaten?’ This is not only a query about whether you have eaten but also, more importantly, a regard for your welfare and well-being. Depending on the time of day, it becomes an opportunity to enjoy each other’s company over a snack, meal or cup of tea or coffee. Indonesian meals can be both simple and intricate depending on the occasion – from a bowl of soto or a plate of Gado-Gado (page xxx) to as many as twenty dishes at the same time when you dine at a Padang restaurantl. In many parts of Indonesia, a wedding party, funeral, birthday, or move into a new house is an elaborate affair with a feast. Meals at home will be served family-style at the table. Diners will be served white steamed rice or turmeric coconut rice or sago or boiled or steamed sweet potatoes or steamed bananas accompanying a vegetable or chicken, meat or fish or tempeh dish, vegetables and sambal. Fresh tropical fruits are always on the table. At home, Mum will delight in cooking Manadonese and Chinese Indonesian food but never Padang, the food of West Sumatra. Why? Because she prefers the experience of visiting the best neighbourhood Padang restaurant, and Indonesians take pleasure in dining out in restaurants or warungs. Food is always a feature of Indonesian ceremonies, an obvious way for any community to bond. The ritual of makan bersama (literally meaning ‘eating together’), a communal meal at a long table, is a feature of many regions. In Manado, during our Thanksgiving (pengucapan syukur), lunch is set out on long tables layered with banana leaves, which seat at least fifty people. The very distinctive turmeric and coconut rice cone (nasi tumpeng) is universally loved, placed in the centre of a large serving dish or bamboo tray and surrounded by a wonderful array of vegetables, chicken, tempeh and sambals to feed twenty hungry guests. (Notably, first plate always goes to the most respected and eldest person in the room.) Mini moulds (tumpeng) are often used to make individual cones of rice, most commonly, or mashed cassava with grated coconut and palm sugar. In the Banda Islands and other parts of Maluku province, the cone has the curious name of suami, meaning ‘husband.’ Special occasions call for special foods. Whether Christmas, Ramadan and Idul Fitri or Chinese New Year, cakes and cookies are always part of the holiday celebrations. These include the Thousand-Layer Cake (page xxx), Pineapple How We Eat 80Salad Crudité, Tempeh and Tofu with Shrimp Paste Sambal Lalapan, tempeh, tahu dan sambal terasi The rich agriculture of West Java has helped the Sundanese people thrive as one of the largest indigenous groups, so it comes as no surprise to see the importance of fresh vegetables in their diet. Lalapan is a classic Sundanese dish of raw vegetables, tempeh and tofu served with a shrimp paste sambal, often served from a small stone mortar. I have replaced some vegetables with more accessible varieties from my local farmer’s market, but you could easily swap them out with cabbage, endive and baby sweet corn. It can be served with rice and chicken or fish for a healthy and balanced meal. For the crudité, place the vegetables on a platter and refrigerate them until needed. For the marinade, combine the garlic, shallot, coriander and salt in a small bowl. Add 200 ml/7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) of water and mix well. Add the tempeh and tofu and set aside for 5 minutes to marinade. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Carefully add the marinated tofu and tempeh and pan-fry for 3–4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tofu and tempeh to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Remove the vegetables from the refrigerator. Place the tempeh and tofu next to the vegetables and serve with a small bowl of sambal. Enjoy! Variation: - Crudite, Tempeh and Tofu with Aubergine Sambal (Sambal terong) Serve with Aubergine Sambal (page xxX) and spicy and tangy gado-gado peanut sauce (page xxX). Origin: Java Preparation time: XXX Cooking time: XXX Serves 4–6 For the crudité: * 2 carrots, halved lengthwise * 1 small cucumber, cut into 10-cm/4-inch sticks * 1 baby gem lettuce, halved lengthwise * 1 red chicory, leaves separated, rinsed and dried * 100 g/3½ oz (2⁄3 cup) vine- ripened cherry tomatoes * 50 g/1¾ oz (½ cup) radishes, halved * Small bunch of basil (optional) * 1 quantity Tomato and Shrimp Paste Sambal, to serve (page xxx) For the tempeh and tofu: * 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 banana shallot, finely grated * 1 tablespoon ground coriander * 1 teaspoon salt * 200 g/7 oz tempeh, cut into chunky pieces * 200 g/7 oz firm tofu, cut into triangles * 400 ml/14 fl oz (12⁄3 cups) sunflower oil 86 Salad Mixed Salad with Spicy and Tangy Peanut Sauce Gado-gado Although very much a traditional Betawi dish, gado-gado is a signature Indonesian salad and a meal in itself. Moving to South Jakarta from the island of Sulawesi in my early teens, I first tasted gado-gado from a local street vendor. Thanks to her incredible performance in assembling the dish, the experience was as much visual entertainment as enjoyment of flavours and textures. She placed a fresh chilli on a large stone mortar and, with a rhythmic rocking motion to her pestle, she ground it with garlic and deep-fried peanuts. She continued to add grated palm sugar, roasted shrimp paste and tamarind water to create a thick creamy paste. She then tossed together boiled vegetables, tofu, tempeh and compressed rice cakes (lontong) with the sauce. The final dish was topped with a boiled egg, crispy shallots and prawn crackers and wrapped in a banana leaf. I paid for my first takeaway meal and enjoyed it on my walk home. This recipe captures gado-gado’s authentic flavours but I've added dry-roasted (rather than deep-fried) peanuts instead. I combined a medley of blanched and fresh vegetables to add vibrancy, colour and texture. To prepare the sauce, combine all the ingredients and mix well. Gradually add 150 ml/5 fl oz (2⁄3 cup) of water and mix until smooth. It should be creamy, tangy, spicy and sweet. Season with salt and set aside. For the salad, boil the new potatoes in salted water for 15–18 minutes until softened. Drain, then set aside. Put the eggs into a small saucepan of water. Bring to a boil and boil for 8 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking process. When cool enough to handle, peel the eggs and cut them in half. Bring another saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with iced water. Add the green beans to the saucepan and cook for 3–4 minutes, then immediately transfer to the bowl of iced water and cool for 2–3 minutes (to preserve the vivid green colour). Drain, then cut the beans into 1-cm/½-inch lengths. Add the cabbage to the water and blanch for 30 seconds. Combine the cooked and raw vegetables in a large bowl and toss. Add baby spinach, carrots and bean sprouts and toss again. For the tempeh and tofu, combine the garlic, coriander, salt and 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water in a large bowl and mix well. Divide the marinade equally between two bowls, then add tempeh to one and tofu to the other. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. The oil is ready when a cube of bread dropped in sizzles on contact and turns golden in 10–15 seconds. (Alternatively, use a thermometer and heat to 180ºC/350ºF. Carefully lower the tempeh into the oil and deep-fry for 2–3 minutes until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tempeh to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with the tofu for 3–4 minutes. Spread the sauce onto four plates, then add the mixed vegetables. Add the tempeh and tofu. Peel the eggs, cut in half and arrange them on top of the salad. Sprinkle with deep-fried shallots and serve with the extra sauce on the side. Variations: - Bali-Style Gado-Gado (Tipat cantok) Finely chop 10 g/½ oz kencur or 15 g/½ oz fresh root ginger and Origin: Java Preparation time: XXX minutes Cooking time: XXX minutes Serves 4 For the sauce: * 2–3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped * 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2 tablespoons coconut sugar * 100 g/3½ oz (scant ½ cup) Peanut-Cashew Butter (page xxx) * 3–4 tablespoons Tamarind Paste (page xxx) * Salt, to taste For the salad: * 2 eggs * 50 g/1¾ oz long beans or green beans, cut into 1-cm/½- inch lengths * 60 g/2¼ oz (1¼ cups) baby spinach * 50 g/1¾ oz (2⁄3 cup) shredded white or red cabbage * 12 new potatoes, boiled in salted water until soft and set aside * 20 g/¾ oz (scant ½ cup) bean sprouts * 1 cob sweet corn, kernels only * 1 carrot, grated For the tempeh and tofu: * 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2 teaspoons ground coriander * 1 teaspoon salt * 100 g/3½ oz tempeh, cut into 1-cm/½-inch cubes * 150 g/5½ oz tofu, cut into 1-cm/½-inch cubes * Sunflower oil, for deep-frying To serve: * 2 tablespoons Crispy Shallots (page xxX) * 4–8 Rice Crackers (page xxx) or prawn crackers (optional) 93Soups and Sotos Oma’s Spicy Roast Pumpkin Soup Oma sup sambiki panggang This dish reminds me of my oma, or grandmother, and her simple but delicious home cooking. The fragrant combination of ginger, garlic, pumpkin and coconut milk sings of authentic Manadonese flavour in this soup. The Minahasa or Manadonese word for pumpkin is sambiki. I served this soup to over 400 peole as a guest chef at Kew Gardens in London in 2020, just before the first lockdown during the Covid pandemic. My grandmother used to prepare it by simmering the pumpkin in water and coconut milk. I prefer to roast the pumpkin first to intensify its flavour. And whereas the Manadonese likes to use shallots, I prefer onions for a touch of sweetness. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking sheet with baking (parchment) paper. Place the pumpkin on the prepared baking sheet. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons oil. Using your hands, mix to coat. Roast for 30–35 minutes until tender. Remove from the oven and set aside. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté for 5 minutes until softened but not coloured. Add the ginger and cook for another minute. Add the pumpkin and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the coconut milk and 200 ml/7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) of hot water, then season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the remaining ½–1 teaspoon of salt and season with pepper. Using a immersion blender, blend until smooth. (Alternatively, transfer the mixture to a blender and blend in batches. Pour the soup back into the saucepan.) Bring the soup to the boil. Season to taste with more salt if needed. Simmer for 8 minutes until piping hot. Ladle 2–3 spoons of soup into soup bowls. Drizzle each with 1 tablespoon of coconut milk. Leftover soup can be stored in the freezer for 2 weeks. Variation: - Sweet Potato Soup (Sup ubi merah) Replace the pumpkin with sweet potatoes. Origin: Sulawesi Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 50 minutes Serves 6–8 * 1 (1-kg/2 lb 4-oz) pumpkin or butternut squash, seeded and sliced into 1-cm/½-inch cubes * 1–1½ teaspoons salt (divided) * 3 tablespoons coconut oil or vegetable oil (divided) * 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 onion, finely chopped * 20 g/¾ oz fresh root ginger, finely grated * 400 ml/14 fl oz (12⁄3 cups) coconut milk, reserving 4–6 tablespoons for drizzling * Black pepper 108Satays Seafood Satay Sate lilit Bali has made significant contributions to Indonesian culture, including religion, art, entertainment, and food. A prime example of this is Bali’s amazing and distinctive seafood satay, where stalks of lemongrass replace conventional bamboo skewers. Finely chopped seafood is seasoned with a spiced turmeric paste and grated coconut and wrapped around lemongrass skewers. Grill it to perfection and serve with a bright sambal. The flavours of the sea, the aroma of lemongrass and the vibrance of fresh chillies and lime make sate lilit a firm favourite amongst my Balinese friends. You’ll need lots of lemongrass – we only require the white parts for the satay mixture, but you can reserve the green parts to add to curries. Put the spice paste into a small blender. Finely slice 2 lemongrass stalks, white part only, and blend to a fine paste. Set aside. Combine the fish and prawns in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl, add the spice paste, lime leaves and ground coriander. Add the desiccated coconut and sugar. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Scoop a generous tablespoon of the mixture into your palm, put the lemongrass on top and mould the seafood mixture around a lemongrass stalk, leaving plenty of room to create the handle. Repeat with the remaining lemongrass stalks and mixture. Preheat a charcoal barbecue or griddled (grill) pan over high heat. Brush each satay with coconut oil. Add the skewers to the barbecue or grill for 6–8 minutes, turning often, until cooked through. Serve with sambal, vegetables with spiced coconut and steamed rice, if you wish. Variations: - Bali Duck Satay (Sate lembat) Replace the fish and prawns with minced duck breast (remove the skin and most of the fat first). Use flat bamboo skewers instead of lemongrass stalks. Serve with the sambal. - Lombok Beef Satay (Lombok sate pusut) Substitute the seafood with minced (ground) beef and use flat bamboo skewers. Serve without the sambal. - Bali Fish Cake (Bali perkedel ikan) Gently shape the seafood mixture into 4–6 patties, about 2.5 cm/1 inch thick. Heat 2–3 tablespoons coconut or sunflower oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Pan-fry for 4–5 minutes until golden. Serve with vegetables with spiced coconut and sambal. Origin: Bali Preparation time: 40 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 10 skewers * ½ quantity Yellow Spice Paste (page xxx) (divided) * 12 stalks lemongrass (divided) * 300 g/10½ oz skinless white snapper, haddock or seabass fillets, coarsely chopped * 300 g/10½ oz shelled prawns, coarsely chopped * 4 lime leaves, centre stem removed and thinly sliced * 1 tablespoon ground coriander * 2 tablespoons unsweetened desiccated coconut * 1 tablespoon coconut sugar or brown sugar * ½ teaspoon salt * 1 teaspoon black pepper * 2 tablespoons coconut oil, for brushing To serve: * Chilli and Lemongrass Sambal (page xxx) * Vegetables with Spiced Coconut (page xxx) * Steamed rice (optional) 211Noodles Acehnese Noodles Mie Aceh Aceh is a semi-autonomous province located on the northernmost point of Indonesia. Over the horizon to the northeast lies the Bay of Bengal, the west coasts of India and Sri Lanka, and the Middle East beyond this. Unsurprisingly, it’s where the spread of Islam in Indonesia originated. I tasted Aceh noodles for the first time during a visit to the capital city of Banda Aceh in 2014. It proved to be an explosion of taste – a unique curried dish, all at once sweet, spicy and tangy, that could be flavoured with prawn, crab or chicken. This dish does require time to come together, but the process will be worth it. The preparations of a bumbu, a spice paste of garlic, shallots, root spices, and chillies and a spice blend (rempah) are a must – they are essential to the rich and smooth sauce used to coat the noodles (and with a very distinctive flavour from fried noodles). A bounty of vegetables adds texture and colour, and thick egg noodles complete the dish. You could easily replace the prawn stock with water and add tofu for a tasty vegan option. Or are you pressed for time? Replace the spice blend with 2 tablespoons shop- bought garam masala. To prepare the spice blend, heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Add all the ingredients and dry-roast for 4–6 minutes until fragrant. Set aside to cool, then transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. (Alternatively, use a pestle and mortar.) To prepare the prawn broth, peel the prawns, leaving the tails intact, and de-vein. Rinse thoroughly and reserve the prawns for later. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the prawn heads and shells and cook for 3–4 minutes until the shells turn pink. Add 300 ml/10 fl oz (1¼ cups) of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain. To prepare fresh noodles, bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the fresh noodles and cook for 1 minute. Drain. (Alternatively, to prepare the dried noodles, follow the package directions.) In the same saucepan used for the noodles, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and sauté for 3–4 minutes, until softened and fragrant. Add the chillies, ginger and turmeric and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Stir in the spice blend and mix for a minute until fragrant. Add the soy sauces and prawn stock and bring to a boil. Season with salt to taste. Add the reserved prawns and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the crab meat and cook for another 2 minutes. Season to taste. Mix in the noodles and cook for another minute. Divide the noodles among 4–6 plates or transfer them to a large serving plate. Top with crispy shallots, sliced lime, and melinjo crackers. Serve hot. Origin: Sumatra Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 4–6 For the spice blend: * 1 teaspoon fennel seeds * 1 teaspoon cumin seeds * 1 teaspoon coriander seeds * 2 green cardamom pods, seeds only * ½ teaspoon fenugreek * 1 teaspoon black pepper For the prawn broth: * 20 medium king prawns * 1 tablespoon vegetable oil For the noodles: * 400 g/14 oz fresh egg noodles or pack of dried noodles * 2 tablespoons coconut oil or vegetable oil * 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2 banana shallots, finely chopped * 2–3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped * 10 g/¼ oz fresh root ginger, finely grated * 10 g/¼ oz fresh turmeric, finely grated or½ teaspoon ground turmeric * 4 tablespoons Sweet Soy Sauce (page xxx) * 3 tablespoons light soy sauce * 100 g/3½ oz (scant ½ cup) crab meat * Salt, to taste For the toppings: * Crispy Shallots (page xxX) * 4–6 limes slices * Melinjo crackers (optional) 246 Drinks Sour Turmeric Kunyit asam A purifying tonic when you need a mental and physical boost, kunyit asam is just one of many different jamu beverages that would be sold door-to-door in Jakarta by beautiful ladies in batik sarongs. Although mbok jamu are a rarer sight these days, jamu culture remains alive in many cool jamu cafés around this city – a reassuring reminder that people still appreciate the value of this healthy and natural remedy. Sour turmeric gives an instant jolt of energy when the temperature drops. Put the turmeric and ginger into a small blender and blend well. Transfer to a large saucepan and add the remaining ingredients, except the limes. Pour in 2 litres/2 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain, then add the lime juice, if using, to give it sourness. Serve hot or at room temperature. It can be refrigerated for 1 week. Variation: - Sour Turmeric Shot (Kunyit asam murni) As more and more home cooks are discovering the benefits of turning waste into taste, this superb way of preparing a concentrated jamu with optimal nutrients has practically no waste. Combine 10% of all the ingredients into a blender starting and replace the adjust the amount of water to 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water. Blend until smooth. Add another 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water and blend. No need to strain. Origin: Java Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes Makes 1¾ litres/1¾ quarts (7 cups) * 70 g/2½ oz fresh turmeric * 50 g/1¾ oz fresh root ginger * 5 lime leaves * 1 stalk lemongrass, crushed and tied into a knot * 1 pandan leaf, tied into a knot * 180 g/6 oz palm sugar, coarsely chopped, or coconut sugar * 120 g/4¼ oz tamarind pulp, pulled apart into small pieces * 1 teaspoon salt * Juice of 2 limes (optional) Cinnamon Coffee Kopi talua There are many ways to enjoy coffee around the archipelago. I was in Bukit Tinggi, a beautiful city surrounded by mountains and a two-hour drive from the capital, Padang city of West Sumatra, where I savoured talua coffee for the first time. This unique beverage features one to two egg yolks in each glass, whisked until frothy. Freshly brewed hot coffee is added, along with a dash of cinnamon and condensed milk. Here, I have replaced the condensed milk with single (light) cream. You’ll need a long, yet small, whisk. Add the coffee, sugar, if using, and cinnamon to a cafetiere and fill with hot water. Set aside for 6–8 minutes to brew. Add an egg yolk to each glass. Whisk gently with a beater until frothy. Add 2–3 tablespoons of cream to each glass. Pour in the coffee along one side of the glass until the egg yolk reaches the top. Dust with cinnamon and serve. Origin: Sumatra Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: xx minutes Serves 2 * 3 tablespoons medium- coarse ground coffee * 1–2 tablespoons granulated sugar (optional) * 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus extra for dusting * 2 egg yolks * 4–6 tablespoons single (light) cream 978 1 83866 628 6 phaidon.com ISBN: 9781838666286 9 7 8 1 8 3 8 6 6 6 2 8 6Phaidon Press Limited 2 Cooperage Yard London E15 2QR Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10012 phaidon.com First published 2023 © 2023 Phaidon Press Limited ISBN: 978 1 8386 6628 6 Author Petty Pandean-Elliott is an award-winning Indonesian chef, writer, entrepreneur, philanthropist and author of several bestselling Indonesian cookbooks. Petty was a judge for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and World’s 50 Best Restaurants (2016 and 2017) and a guest judge on ‘Indonesian Iron Chef’ (2017). She was featured in ’Where Chefs Eat’ published in 2018 by Phaidon and regarded as one of Indonesia’s most powerful women by The Peak magazine (2015). Key selling points The book includes an introduction to Indonesian food culture while personal stories reveal the rich history and inspiration behind each recipe in an informative and evocative manner - Features iconic Indonesian dishes such as fiery chilli sambal, grilled chicken satay and beef rendang, which has been regarded as the ‘world’s most delicious dish’. Regional specialities include fragrant coconut curries, savoury laksas, fortifying sotos and traditional desserts - Many of the delicious yet accessible recipes have been adapted for homecooks, prepared with local ingredients and simple cooking methods - Pandean-Elliott is a member of The Guild of Food Writers UK and has written for the national airline Garuda Indonesia, the Four Seasons International Hotel Group magazine, the Jakarta Globe Newspaper, Now Jakarta and Wanderlust magazine. She serves on the national board of the Duke of Edinburgh Awards for Indonesia - Stunning images of recipes and Indonesian culture by London- based lifestyle photographer Yuki Sugiura SUMATRA KALIMANTAN MAL AYSIAMAL AYSIA BRUNEIBRUNEI SING APORESING APORE THAIL ANDTHAIL AND CAMBODIACAMBODIAVIETNAMVIETNAM MAL AYSIAMAL AYSIA PHILIPPINESPHILIPPINES PAL AUPAL AU TIMOR-LESTETIMOR-LESTE AUSTRALIAAUSTRALIA Map of Map of IndonesiaIndonesia SIMEULUESIMEULUE NIASNIAS SULAWESI PAPUABURUBURU LAUFLAUF MUNA BUTONBUTON WETARWETAR ALORALOR BABARBABAR KAPULAUAN KAPULAUAN TANIMBARTANIMBAR KEPULAUAN KEPULAUAN LINGGALINGGA KAPULAUAN KAPULAUAN ARUARU KEPULAUAN KEPULAUAN TALAUDTALAUD CERAMCERAM ROTIROTI TIMOR SUMBA LOMBOKLOMBOK MADURAMADURA FLORES SUMBAWASUMBAWA BIAKBIAK YAPENYAPEN MISOOLMISOOL SANGIHESANGIHE MOROTAIMOROTAI HALMAHERAHALMAHERA WAIGEOWAIGEO OBIOBI JAVA º Jakarta º Serang º Tanjung Pinang º Pangkal Pinang º Jambi º Palembang º Pontianak º Bengkulu º Padang º Pkenbaru º Banda Aceh º Medan º Bandung º Semarang º Yogyakarta º Surabaya º Denpasar º Manado º Gorontalo º Sofifi º Sarong º Manokwari º Palu º Mamuju º Kendari º Makassar º Ambon º Palangkaraya º Kupang BALIBALI IND IAN OCE AN IND IAN OCE AN CE LEB ES SEA CE LEB ES SEA PACIFIC OCEAN PACIFIC OCEAN ARAFURA SEAARAFURA SEA JAVA SEA JAVA SEA BANDA SEA BANDA SEA TIM OR SEA TIM OR SEA SIBERUTSIBERUT NATUNA BESARNATUNA BESAR BILLITONBILLITON MILES1252500 1252500KM 2322Introduction The Spice Island Tucked away in the heart of Indonesia are a scatter of islands collectively known as The Spice Islands, the largest producers of mace, nutmeg and cloves in the world. The string of islands in the provinces of Maluku and North Maluku have been cultivating cloves for hundreds of years. Travel 400 miles (645 km) south to the Banda archipelago, and you’ll find the home of nutmeg. In fact, on the island of Banda Besar, you can walk under giant canopies of ancient kenari trees, some said to be 400 years old, shading the smaller nutmeg trees while themselves yielding local wild almonds, often featured in local coffee, nougat with palm sugar syrup and young coconut tart known as klapertart. Mace is more valuable compared to nut of nutmeg nowadays as one nutmeg whole fruit produce only one thread of mace. Interestingly, the people of Banda used plenty of fresh mace to cook fish soup. The Spice Islands gained fame after Portuguese traders brought the indigenous spices to their European homeland in the early sixteenth century. Unknown to many, the beautiful Banda Islands made significant contributions to shaping the world of modern trading and cuisine. In 1667, the Dutch saw the inordinate value of spices on a global scale. Under the Treaty of Breda with the British, they acquired the island of Run and the nutmeg monopoly, in exchange for Manhattan Island (or New York). This deal meant little, even less today, for the islanders themselves as most continue to live by subsistence farming and fishing in a place barely visible on a map. These spices were all part of my childhood. I grew up with sweet or spicy pickled nutmeg fruit, manisan pala, a pork dish with young nutmeg and clove leaves and spekulas cookies. Whether used individually or as part of a blend, these spices have made an indelible mark on global cuisine and played a dominant role in kitchens the world over – from Chinese five-spice and Indian garam masala t0 North African ras el hanout and baharat to the French quatre epices and Dutch speculaas (page xxx). 2524 Introduction Food is very personal to Indonesians. There is the food for the ceremony, food we cook and eat at our family table and with friends and the pleasure of eating out in restaurants or street-side warungs and food for special occasions. Each is different in the way we approach and enjoy it. When meeting a friend, work colleague or family member, it is typical to ask, ‘Sudah makan belum,’ meaning ‘Have you eaten?’ This is not only a query about whether you have eaten but also, more importantly, a regard for your welfare and well-being. Depending on the time of day, it becomes an opportunity to enjoy each other’s company over a snack, meal or cup of tea or coffee. Indonesian meals can be both simple and intricate depending on the occasion – from a bowl of soto or a plate of Gado-Gado (page xxx) to as many as twenty dishes at the same time when you dine at a Padang restaurantl. In many parts of Indonesia, a wedding party, funeral, birthday, or move into a new house is an elaborate affair with a feast. Meals at home will be served family-style at the table. Diners will be served white steamed rice or turmeric coconut rice or sago or boiled or steamed sweet potatoes or steamed bananas accompanying a vegetable or chicken, meat or fish or tempeh dish, vegetables and sambal. Fresh tropical fruits are always on the table. At home, Mum will delight in cooking Manadonese and Chinese Indonesian food but never Padang, the food of West Sumatra. Why? Because she prefers the experience of visiting the best neighbourhood Padang restaurant, and Indonesians take pleasure in dining out in restaurants or warungs. Food is always a feature of Indonesian ceremonies, an obvious way for any community to bond. The ritual of makan bersama (literally meaning ‘eating together’), a communal meal at a long table, is a feature of many regions. In Manado, during our Thanksgiving (pengucapan syukur), lunch is set out on long tables layered with banana leaves, which seat at least fifty people. The very distinctive turmeric and coconut rice cone (nasi tumpeng) is universally loved, placed in the centre of a large serving dish or bamboo tray and surrounded by a wonderful array of vegetables, chicken, tempeh and sambals to feed twenty hungry guests. (Notably, first plate always goes to the most respected and eldest person in the room.) Mini moulds (tumpeng) are often used to make individual cones of rice, most commonly, or mashed cassava with grated coconut and palm sugar. In the Banda Islands and other parts of Maluku province, the cone has the curious name of suami, meaning ‘husband.’ Special occasions call for special foods. Whether Christmas, Ramadan and Idul Fitri or Chinese New Year, cakes and cookies are always part of the holiday celebrations. These include the Thousand-Layer Cake (page xxx), Pineapple How We Eat 80Salad Crudité, Tempeh and Tofu with Shrimp Paste Sambal Lalapan, tempeh, tahu dan sambal terasi The rich agriculture of West Java has helped the Sundanese people thrive as one of the largest indigenous groups, so it comes as no surprise to see the importance of fresh vegetables in their diet. Lalapan is a classic Sundanese dish of raw vegetables, tempeh and tofu served with a shrimp paste sambal, often served from a small stone mortar. I have replaced some vegetables with more accessible varieties from my local farmer’s market, but you could easily swap them out with cabbage, endive and baby sweet corn. It can be served with rice and chicken or fish for a healthy and balanced meal. For the crudité, place the vegetables on a platter and refrigerate them until needed. For the marinade, combine the garlic, shallot, coriander and salt in a small bowl. Add 200 ml/7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) of water and mix well. Add the tempeh and tofu and set aside for 5 minutes to marinade. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Carefully add the marinated tofu and tempeh and pan-fry for 3–4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tofu and tempeh to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Remove the vegetables from the refrigerator. Place the tempeh and tofu next to the vegetables and serve with a small bowl of sambal. Enjoy! Variation: - Crudite, Tempeh and Tofu with Aubergine Sambal (Sambal terong) Serve with Aubergine Sambal (page xxX) and spicy and tangy gado-gado peanut sauce (page xxX). Origin: Java Preparation time: XXX Cooking time: XXX Serves 4–6 For the crudité: * 2 carrots, halved lengthwise * 1 small cucumber, cut into 10-cm/4-inch sticks * 1 baby gem lettuce, halved lengthwise * 1 red chicory, leaves separated, rinsed and dried * 100 g/3½ oz (2⁄3 cup) vine- ripened cherry tomatoes * 50 g/1¾ oz (½ cup) radishes, halved * Small bunch of basil (optional) * 1 quantity Tomato and Shrimp Paste Sambal, to serve (page xxx) For the tempeh and tofu: * 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 banana shallot, finely grated * 1 tablespoon ground coriander * 1 teaspoon salt * 200 g/7 oz tempeh, cut into chunky pieces * 200 g/7 oz firm tofu, cut into triangles * 400 ml/14 fl oz (12⁄3 cups) sunflower oil 86 Salad Mixed Salad with Spicy and Tangy Peanut Sauce Gado-gado Although very much a traditional Betawi dish, gado-gado is a signature Indonesian salad and a meal in itself. Moving to South Jakarta from the island of Sulawesi in my early teens, I first tasted gado-gado from a local street vendor. Thanks to her incredible performance in assembling the dish, the experience was as much visual entertainment as enjoyment of flavours and textures. She placed a fresh chilli on a large stone mortar and, with a rhythmic rocking motion to her pestle, she ground it with garlic and deep-fried peanuts. She continued to add grated palm sugar, roasted shrimp paste and tamarind water to create a thick creamy paste. She then tossed together boiled vegetables, tofu, tempeh and compressed rice cakes (lontong) with the sauce. The final dish was topped with a boiled egg, crispy shallots and prawn crackers and wrapped in a banana leaf. I paid for my first takeaway meal and enjoyed it on my walk home. This recipe captures gado-gado’s authentic flavours but I've added dry-roasted (rather than deep-fried) peanuts instead. I combined a medley of blanched and fresh vegetables to add vibrancy, colour and texture. To prepare the sauce, combine all the ingredients and mix well. Gradually add 150 ml/5 fl oz (2⁄3 cup) of water and mix until smooth. It should be creamy, tangy, spicy and sweet. Season with salt and set aside. For the salad, boil the new potatoes in salted water for 15–18 minutes until softened. Drain, then set aside. Put the eggs into a small saucepan of water. Bring to a boil and boil for 8 minutes. Drain, then transfer to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking process. When cool enough to handle, peel the eggs and cut them in half. Bring another saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with iced water. Add the green beans to the saucepan and cook for 3–4 minutes, then immediately transfer to the bowl of iced water and cool for 2–3 minutes (to preserve the vivid green colour). Drain, then cut the beans into 1-cm/½-inch lengths. Add the cabbage to the water and blanch for 30 seconds. Combine the cooked and raw vegetables in a large bowl and toss. Add baby spinach, carrots and bean sprouts and toss again. For the tempeh and tofu, combine the garlic, coriander, salt and 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water in a large bowl and mix well. Divide the marinade equally between two bowls, then add tempeh to one and tofu to the other. Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. The oil is ready when a cube of bread dropped in sizzles on contact and turns golden in 10–15 seconds. (Alternatively, use a thermometer and heat to 180ºC/350ºF. Carefully lower the tempeh into the oil and deep-fry for 2–3 minutes until golden. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tempeh to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat with the tofu for 3–4 minutes. Spread the sauce onto four plates, then add the mixed vegetables. Add the tempeh and tofu. Peel the eggs, cut in half and arrange them on top of the salad. Sprinkle with deep-fried shallots and serve with the extra sauce on the side. Variations: - Bali-Style Gado-Gado (Tipat cantok) Finely chop 10 g/½ oz kencur or 15 g/½ oz fresh root ginger and Origin: Java Preparation time: XXX minutes Cooking time: XXX minutes Serves 4 For the sauce: * 2–3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped * 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2 tablespoons coconut sugar * 100 g/3½ oz (scant ½ cup) Peanut-Cashew Butter (page xxx) * 3–4 tablespoons Tamarind Paste (page xxx) * Salt, to taste For the salad: * 2 eggs * 50 g/1¾ oz long beans or green beans, cut into 1-cm/½- inch lengths * 60 g/2¼ oz (1¼ cups) baby spinach * 50 g/1¾ oz (2⁄3 cup) shredded white or red cabbage * 12 new potatoes, boiled in salted water until soft and set aside * 20 g/¾ oz (scant ½ cup) bean sprouts * 1 cob sweet corn, kernels only * 1 carrot, grated For the tempeh and tofu: * 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2 teaspoons ground coriander * 1 teaspoon salt * 100 g/3½ oz tempeh, cut into 1-cm/½-inch cubes * 150 g/5½ oz tofu, cut into 1-cm/½-inch cubes * Sunflower oil, for deep-frying To serve: * 2 tablespoons Crispy Shallots (page xxX) * 4–8 Rice Crackers (page xxx) or prawn crackers (optional) 93Soups and Sotos Oma’s Spicy Roast Pumpkin Soup Oma sup sambiki panggang This dish reminds me of my oma, or grandmother, and her simple but delicious home cooking. The fragrant combination of ginger, garlic, pumpkin and coconut milk sings of authentic Manadonese flavour in this soup. The Minahasa or Manadonese word for pumpkin is sambiki. I served this soup to over 400 peole as a guest chef at Kew Gardens in London in 2020, just before the first lockdown during the Covid pandemic. My grandmother used to prepare it by simmering the pumpkin in water and coconut milk. I prefer to roast the pumpkin first to intensify its flavour. And whereas the Manadonese likes to use shallots, I prefer onions for a touch of sweetness. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a baking sheet with baking (parchment) paper. Place the pumpkin on the prepared baking sheet. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons oil. Using your hands, mix to coat. Roast for 30–35 minutes until tender. Remove from the oven and set aside. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté for 5 minutes until softened but not coloured. Add the ginger and cook for another minute. Add the pumpkin and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in the coconut milk and 200 ml/7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) of hot water, then season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the remaining ½–1 teaspoon of salt and season with pepper. Using a immersion blender, blend until smooth. (Alternatively, transfer the mixture to a blender and blend in batches. Pour the soup back into the saucepan.) Bring the soup to the boil. Season to taste with more salt if needed. Simmer for 8 minutes until piping hot. Ladle 2–3 spoons of soup into soup bowls. Drizzle each with 1 tablespoon of coconut milk. Leftover soup can be stored in the freezer for 2 weeks. Variation: - Sweet Potato Soup (Sup ubi merah) Replace the pumpkin with sweet potatoes. Origin: Sulawesi Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 50 minutes Serves 6–8 * 1 (1-kg/2 lb 4-oz) pumpkin or butternut squash, seeded and sliced into 1-cm/½-inch cubes * 1–1½ teaspoons salt (divided) * 3 tablespoons coconut oil or vegetable oil (divided) * 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 1 onion, finely chopped * 20 g/¾ oz fresh root ginger, finely grated * 400 ml/14 fl oz (12⁄3 cups) coconut milk, reserving 4–6 tablespoons for drizzling * Black pepper 108Satays Seafood Satay Sate lilit Bali has made significant contributions to Indonesian culture, including religion, art, entertainment, and food. A prime example of this is Bali’s amazing and distinctive seafood satay, where stalks of lemongrass replace conventional bamboo skewers. Finely chopped seafood is seasoned with a spiced turmeric paste and grated coconut and wrapped around lemongrass skewers. Grill it to perfection and serve with a bright sambal. The flavours of the sea, the aroma of lemongrass and the vibrance of fresh chillies and lime make sate lilit a firm favourite amongst my Balinese friends. You’ll need lots of lemongrass – we only require the white parts for the satay mixture, but you can reserve the green parts to add to curries. Put the spice paste into a small blender. Finely slice 2 lemongrass stalks, white part only, and blend to a fine paste. Set aside. Combine the fish and prawns in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl, add the spice paste, lime leaves and ground coriander. Add the desiccated coconut and sugar. Season with salt and pepper and mix well. Scoop a generous tablespoon of the mixture into your palm, put the lemongrass on top and mould the seafood mixture around a lemongrass stalk, leaving plenty of room to create the handle. Repeat with the remaining lemongrass stalks and mixture. Preheat a charcoal barbecue or griddled (grill) pan over high heat. Brush each satay with coconut oil. Add the skewers to the barbecue or grill for 6–8 minutes, turning often, until cooked through. Serve with sambal, vegetables with spiced coconut and steamed rice, if you wish. Variations: - Bali Duck Satay (Sate lembat) Replace the fish and prawns with minced duck breast (remove the skin and most of the fat first). Use flat bamboo skewers instead of lemongrass stalks. Serve with the sambal. - Lombok Beef Satay (Lombok sate pusut) Substitute the seafood with minced (ground) beef and use flat bamboo skewers. Serve without the sambal. - Bali Fish Cake (Bali perkedel ikan) Gently shape the seafood mixture into 4–6 patties, about 2.5 cm/1 inch thick. Heat 2–3 tablespoons coconut or sunflower oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Pan-fry for 4–5 minutes until golden. Serve with vegetables with spiced coconut and sambal. Origin: Bali Preparation time: 40 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 10 skewers * ½ quantity Yellow Spice Paste (page xxx) (divided) * 12 stalks lemongrass (divided) * 300 g/10½ oz skinless white snapper, haddock or seabass fillets, coarsely chopped * 300 g/10½ oz shelled prawns, coarsely chopped * 4 lime leaves, centre stem removed and thinly sliced * 1 tablespoon ground coriander * 2 tablespoons unsweetened desiccated coconut * 1 tablespoon coconut sugar or brown sugar * ½ teaspoon salt * 1 teaspoon black pepper * 2 tablespoons coconut oil, for brushing To serve: * Chilli and Lemongrass Sambal (page xxx) * Vegetables with Spiced Coconut (page xxx) * Steamed rice (optional) 211Noodles Acehnese Noodles Mie Aceh Aceh is a semi-autonomous province located on the northernmost point of Indonesia. Over the horizon to the northeast lies the Bay of Bengal, the west coasts of India and Sri Lanka, and the Middle East beyond this. Unsurprisingly, it’s where the spread of Islam in Indonesia originated. I tasted Aceh noodles for the first time during a visit to the capital city of Banda Aceh in 2014. It proved to be an explosion of taste – a unique curried dish, all at once sweet, spicy and tangy, that could be flavoured with prawn, crab or chicken. This dish does require time to come together, but the process will be worth it. The preparations of a bumbu, a spice paste of garlic, shallots, root spices, and chillies and a spice blend (rempah) are a must – they are essential to the rich and smooth sauce used to coat the noodles (and with a very distinctive flavour from fried noodles). A bounty of vegetables adds texture and colour, and thick egg noodles complete the dish. You could easily replace the prawn stock with water and add tofu for a tasty vegan option. Or are you pressed for time? Replace the spice blend with 2 tablespoons shop- bought garam masala. To prepare the spice blend, heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Add all the ingredients and dry-roast for 4–6 minutes until fragrant. Set aside to cool, then transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a fine powder. (Alternatively, use a pestle and mortar.) To prepare the prawn broth, peel the prawns, leaving the tails intact, and de-vein. Rinse thoroughly and reserve the prawns for later. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the prawn heads and shells and cook for 3–4 minutes until the shells turn pink. Add 300 ml/10 fl oz (1¼ cups) of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain. To prepare fresh noodles, bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the fresh noodles and cook for 1 minute. Drain. (Alternatively, to prepare the dried noodles, follow the package directions.) In the same saucepan used for the noodles, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and sauté for 3–4 minutes, until softened and fragrant. Add the chillies, ginger and turmeric and cook for another 2–3 minutes. Stir in the spice blend and mix for a minute until fragrant. Add the soy sauces and prawn stock and bring to a boil. Season with salt to taste. Add the reserved prawns and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the crab meat and cook for another 2 minutes. Season to taste. Mix in the noodles and cook for another minute. Divide the noodles among 4–6 plates or transfer them to a large serving plate. Top with crispy shallots, sliced lime, and melinjo crackers. Serve hot. Origin: Sumatra Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Serves 4–6 For the spice blend: * 1 teaspoon fennel seeds * 1 teaspoon cumin seeds * 1 teaspoon coriander seeds * 2 green cardamom pods, seeds only * ½ teaspoon fenugreek * 1 teaspoon black pepper For the prawn broth: * 20 medium king prawns * 1 tablespoon vegetable oil For the noodles: * 400 g/14 oz fresh egg noodles or pack of dried noodles * 2 tablespoons coconut oil or vegetable oil * 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped * 2 banana shallots, finely chopped * 2–3 red bird’s eye chillies, finely chopped * 10 g/¼ oz fresh root ginger, finely grated * 10 g/¼ oz fresh turmeric, finely grated or½ teaspoon ground turmeric * 4 tablespoons Sweet Soy Sauce (page xxx) * 3 tablespoons light soy sauce * 100 g/3½ oz (scant ½ cup) crab meat * Salt, to taste For the toppings: * Crispy Shallots (page xxX) * 4–6 limes slices * Melinjo crackers (optional) 246 Drinks Sour Turmeric Kunyit asam A purifying tonic when you need a mental and physical boost, kunyit asam is just one of many different jamu beverages that would be sold door-to-door in Jakarta by beautiful ladies in batik sarongs. Although mbok jamu are a rarer sight these days, jamu culture remains alive in many cool jamu cafés around this city – a reassuring reminder that people still appreciate the value of this healthy and natural remedy. Sour turmeric gives an instant jolt of energy when the temperature drops. Put the turmeric and ginger into a small blender and blend well. Transfer to a large saucepan and add the remaining ingredients, except the limes. Pour in 2 litres/2 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Strain, then add the lime juice, if using, to give it sourness. Serve hot or at room temperature. It can be refrigerated for 1 week. Variation: - Sour Turmeric Shot (Kunyit asam murni) As more and more home cooks are discovering the benefits of turning waste into taste, this superb way of preparing a concentrated jamu with optimal nutrients has practically no waste. Combine 10% of all the ingredients into a blender starting and replace the adjust the amount of water to 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water. Blend until smooth. Add another 100 ml/3½ fl oz (scant 1 cup) of water and blend. No need to strain. Origin: Java Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 25 minutes Makes 1¾ litres/1¾ quarts (7 cups) * 70 g/2½ oz fresh turmeric * 50 g/1¾ oz fresh root ginger * 5 lime leaves * 1 stalk lemongrass, crushed and tied into a knot * 1 pandan leaf, tied into a knot * 180 g/6 oz palm sugar, coarsely chopped, or coconut sugar * 120 g/4¼ oz tamarind pulp, pulled apart into small pieces * 1 teaspoon salt * Juice of 2 limes (optional) Cinnamon Coffee Kopi talua There are many ways to enjoy coffee around the archipelago. I was in Bukit Tinggi, a beautiful city surrounded by mountains and a two-hour drive from the capital, Padang city of West Sumatra, where I savoured talua coffee for the first time. This unique beverage features one to two egg yolks in each glass, whisked until frothy. Freshly brewed hot coffee is added, along with a dash of cinnamon and condensed milk. Here, I have replaced the condensed milk with single (light) cream. You’ll need a long, yet small, whisk. Add the coffee, sugar, if using, and cinnamon to a cafetiere and fill with hot water. Set aside for 6–8 minutes to brew. Add an egg yolk to each glass. Whisk gently with a beater until frothy. Add 2–3 tablespoons of cream to each glass. Pour in the coffee along one side of the glass until the egg yolk reaches the top. Dust with cinnamon and serve. Origin: Sumatra Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: xx minutes Serves 2 * 3 tablespoons medium- coarse ground coffee * 1–2 tablespoons granulated sugar (optional) * 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus extra for dusting * 2 egg yolks * 4–6 tablespoons single (light) cream 978 1 83866 628 6 phaidon.com ISBN: 9781838666286 9 7 8 1 8 3 8 6 6 6 2 8 6Next >