< Previous8BREAKFASTLA PRIMA COLAZIONE8 Gnocco fritto is fried dough traditionally made with flour, water, yeast, and lard and then fried in lard. At Casa Maria Luigia we prepare a lighter version of the dough without lard, using olive oil and cream instead. And we fry it in vegetable oil. It is often topped with cold cuts. We serve it with a slice of mortadella, whipped ricotta from Rosola, our dairy farmers in the Apennines, and a drizzle of extra-aged balsamic vinegar. Newcomers often look quite skeptical at this fluffy fried dough and then they come back for seconds! Up until the 1960s, gnocco fritto was considered country food around Emilia- Romagna. Today in and around Mode- na, you can find it at coffee shops and restaurants. It has become a signature Emilian ritual both for breakfast and as an antipasto, served as a starter to an evening meal with cold cuts. Once you join the fraternity of gnocco fritto, it is very hard to turn back. - Dissolve the yeast with the water, cream, and olive oil. Add the flour slowly, mix until it just comes together, but it won’t be smooth at this point. Add the salt at the end and mix for another minute. The dough will still not be perfectly homoge- nous – that’s ok. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap (cling film) or in a bag and let it sit in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Remove from the fridge and roll it out, this is best done with a pasta roller – by hand works too. Roll it out to about ¾ inch/2 cm thick, fold the dough over itself in 3 (like a pamphlet) and start the process again. Do this a total of 4 times. Wrap in plastic wrap again and place in the fridge for another 12 hours. Roll out and redo the fold once, then roll out to about 1/8 inch/ 3 mm. Cut into 5 inch/12 cm squares. Fill a deep skillet (frying pan) with oil and heat to 350°F / 180°C, or until a cube of bread browns in 10 seconds. Add the dough squares. When the dough goes into the oil it will start to puff, it’s very im- portant not to turn it yet. Once the dough has puffed and the corners are slightly golden, carefully flip the gnoccho. Let the second side golden ever so slightly. This bread is served soft, not crispy so don’t over fry. Remove the gnoccho from the pan and drain on paper towels. To serve, top the gnocchi fritto with a slice of mortadella, some whipped ricotta from Rosola and of course a generous drizzle of extra old balsamic vinegar. MAKES ABOUT 15 21/4 TEASPOONS (7 G) BEER (BREWER’S) OR ACTIVE DRY YEAST SCANT 3/4 CUP (165 G) SPARKLING WATER 1/2 CUP (130 G) HEAVY CREAM 23/4 TEASPOONS (12 G) OLIVE OIL 43/4 CUPS (600 G) TIPO “00” FLOUR 21/2 TEASPOONS (15 G) SALT VEGETABLE OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING TO SERVE 16 SLICES MORTADELLA 7 OZ (200 G) RICOTTA 31/2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-AGED BALSAMIC VINEGAR GNOCCO FRITTO8BREAKFASTLA PRIMA COLAZIONE8 Gnocco fritto is fried dough traditionally made with flour, water, yeast, and lard and then fried in lard. At Casa Maria Luigia we prepare a lighter version of the dough without lard, using olive oil and cream instead. And we fry it in vegetable oil. It is often topped with cold cuts. We serve it with a slice of mortadella, whipped ricotta from Rosola, our dairy farmers in the Apennines, and a drizzle of extra-aged balsamic vinegar. Newcomers often look quite skeptical at this fluffy fried dough and then they come back for seconds! Up until the 1960s, gnocco fritto was considered country food around Emilia- Romagna. Today in and around Mode- na, you can find it at coffee shops and restaurants. It has become a signature Emilian ritual both for breakfast and as an antipasto, served as a starter to an evening meal with cold cuts. Once you join the fraternity of gnocco fritto, it is very hard to turn back. - Dissolve the yeast with the water, cream, and olive oil. Add the flour slowly, mix until it just comes together, but it won’t be smooth at this point. Add the salt at the end and mix for another minute. The dough will still not be perfectly homoge- nous – that’s ok. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap (cling film) or in a bag and let it sit in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Remove from the fridge and roll it out, this is best done with a pasta roller – by hand works too. Roll it out to about ¾ inch/2 cm thick, fold the dough over itself in 3 (like a pamphlet) and start the process again. Do this a total of 4 times. Wrap in plastic wrap again and place in the fridge for another 12 hours. Roll out and redo the fold once, then roll out to about 1/8 inch/ 3 mm. Cut into 5 inch/12 cm squares. Fill a deep skillet (frying pan) with oil and heat to 350°F / 180°C, or until a cube of bread browns in 10 seconds. Add the dough squares. When the dough goes into the oil it will start to puff, it’s very im- portant not to turn it yet. Once the dough has puffed and the corners are slightly golden, carefully flip the gnoccho. Let the second side golden ever so slightly. This bread is served soft, not crispy so don’t over fry. Remove the gnoccho from the pan and drain on paper towels. To serve, top the gnocchi fritto with a slice of mortadella, some whipped ricotta from Rosola and of course a generous drizzle of extra old balsamic vinegar. MAKES ABOUT 15 21/4 TEASPOONS (7 G) BEER (BREWER’S) OR ACTIVE DRY YEAST SCANT 3/4 CUP (165 G) SPARKLING WATER 1/2 CUP (130 G) HEAVY CREAM 23/4 TEASPOONS (12 G) OLIVE OIL 43/4 CUPS (600 G) TIPO “00” FLOUR 21/2 TEASPOONS (15 G) SALT VEGETABLE OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING TO SERVE 16 SLICES MORTADELLA 7 OZ (200 G) RICOTTA 31/2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-AGED BALSAMIC VINEGAR GNOCCO FRITTO10BREAKFAST Massimo claimed this room his own from the moment he walked in. He did not only claim it, he named it: The Music Room. This is not to be confused with a room for playing musical instruments. This is a place for listening, an audi- ophile room, to be precise. To this day, Massimo says half joking and half true, we bought Casa Maria Luigia just for this room. We visited the property for the first time in late May, 2017. Ca’ Magelli, as it was called, had been abandoned for nearly ten years, gone to auction several times, and was due for another round of auction in a matter of days. We had no expectations. We were not in need of a house. We were fasci- nated by the mystery of this place. As we wandered through rooms with shutters closed and no electricity, filtered light, a painterly chiaroscuro, defined shapes but left the details unclear. Occasional rays of daylight shone through, revealing just enough to ignite our imagina- tions. Massimo pressed open a dark wood door, peeked in, and gasped, “Oh my God! This room is perfect!” I rushed over and looked into a pea-green library that smelled of musty, old books. I did not see perfect. The car ride home was silent as if we were afraid to break a spell or too terrified to hear what the other person was thinking. The silence broke only when we entered our home and we each started rambling nonsense, interrupting each other, revealing only then how overexcited we were by the prospects and possibilities of what we had seen. We had no idea what we would do with the property and placed our bid anyway. When we found out the property was ours, Massimo knew that he had finally found a place for his most recent pur- chase: 7,000 rare, first-edition jazz records. We already had a significant collection of vinyl in our apartment and there was absolutely no more room on those shelves. He waited to break the news to me; waited until he had found a home for the collection: those pea-green shelves in that library, which would become The Music Room, in that country house only a fifteen-minute drive from downtown Modena and the restaurant, yet far enough away from our familiar world to feel like it could be its own universe. One day during the renovations I walked into The Music Room and found a rug wrapped in thick plastic. The label read: I LOVE YOU by Peter Blake. I cut open the thick plas- tic wrap and a wool rug made up of layers of color unfurled before me. A black square framed a field of cobalt blue that in turn framed a bright orange field inside of which was a shocking yellow square with a big pink heart in the middle. As I unrolled the very last part of the rug, I read the words on the top: I LOVE YOU. Love can be expressed in many ways. It can be wordless, im- plied, released slowly, or burn intensely. Can it also live in the objects we gather, share, and pass a lifetime with? Do houses filled with loved objects speak of love? Can you love a rug? Can it love you back? Collectors like Massimo and me believe that the things we collect not only bring us joy, but they also bring joy into the lives of others, and maybe even bring more love into all our lives. The rug was perfect. It was made for this room. I am here now writing. Actually, this is where you can find me many winter nights while guests are eating dinner in the carriage house or asleep in their beds. This is the room where it all began, the place where I take off my shoes and prance bare- foot on the rug. Massimo knows to look for me here when he can’t find me elsewhere. He asks, “Lara, what are you doing here?” I do not answer his question. Instead, I say, “Dance with me.” LG I LOVE YOU10BREAKFAST Massimo claimed this room his own from the moment he walked in. He did not only claim it, he named it: The Music Room. This is not to be confused with a room for playing musical instruments. This is a place for listening, an audi- ophile room, to be precise. To this day, Massimo says half joking and half true, we bought Casa Maria Luigia just for this room. We visited the property for the first time in late May, 2017. Ca’ Magelli, as it was called, had been abandoned for nearly ten years, gone to auction several times, and was due for another round of auction in a matter of days. We had no expectations. We were not in need of a house. We were fasci- nated by the mystery of this place. As we wandered through rooms with shutters closed and no electricity, filtered light, a painterly chiaroscuro, defined shapes but left the details unclear. Occasional rays of daylight shone through, revealing just enough to ignite our imagina- tions. Massimo pressed open a dark wood door, peeked in, and gasped, “Oh my God! This room is perfect!” I rushed over and looked into a pea-green library that smelled of musty, old books. I did not see perfect. The car ride home was silent as if we were afraid to break a spell or too terrified to hear what the other person was thinking. The silence broke only when we entered our home and we each started rambling nonsense, interrupting each other, revealing only then how overexcited we were by the prospects and possibilities of what we had seen. We had no idea what we would do with the property and placed our bid anyway. When we found out the property was ours, Massimo knew that he had finally found a place for his most recent pur- chase: 7,000 rare, first-edition jazz records. We already had a significant collection of vinyl in our apartment and there was absolutely no more room on those shelves. He waited to break the news to me; waited until he had found a home for the collection: those pea-green shelves in that library, which would become The Music Room, in that country house only a fifteen-minute drive from downtown Modena and the restaurant, yet far enough away from our familiar world to feel like it could be its own universe. One day during the renovations I walked into The Music Room and found a rug wrapped in thick plastic. The label read: I LOVE YOU by Peter Blake. I cut open the thick plas- tic wrap and a wool rug made up of layers of color unfurled before me. A black square framed a field of cobalt blue that in turn framed a bright orange field inside of which was a shocking yellow square with a big pink heart in the middle. As I unrolled the very last part of the rug, I read the words on the top: I LOVE YOU. Love can be expressed in many ways. It can be wordless, im- plied, released slowly, or burn intensely. Can it also live in the objects we gather, share, and pass a lifetime with? Do houses filled with loved objects speak of love? Can you love a rug? Can it love you back? Collectors like Massimo and me believe that the things we collect not only bring us joy, but they also bring joy into the lives of others, and maybe even bring more love into all our lives. The rug was perfect. It was made for this room. I am here now writing. Actually, this is where you can find me many winter nights while guests are eating dinner in the carriage house or asleep in their beds. This is the room where it all began, the place where I take off my shoes and prance bare- foot on the rug. Massimo knows to look for me here when he can’t find me elsewhere. He asks, “Lara, what are you doing here?” I do not answer his question. Instead, I say, “Dance with me.” LG I LOVE YOU12BREAKFAST SMOKED TRAPANESE HOUSE SAVORIES SMOKED TOMATOES 800 G PERFECTLY RIPE DATTERINI OR CHERRY TOMATOES 5 TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL GENEROUS 1/2 TEASPOON SALT 1 BULB GARLIC, HALVED HORIZONTALLY ROASTED RICOTTA 1 LB (500 G) FIRM FRESH RICOTTA CHEESE 21/2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT SALAD SCANT 1/4 TEASPOON SALT 21/2 TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 3/4 CUP (160 G) BASIL OIL (PAGE 172), PRE- SERVED CHILI OIL (PAGE 173), OR A NICE SPICY EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 51/2 OZ (160 G) TOASTED AND SALTED SICILIAN ALMONDS FROM NOTO, COARSELY CHOPPED 31/2 OZ (100 G) SALTED CAPERS 16 BASIL LEAVES GRATED ZEST OF 2 LEMONS This dish in inspired by a traditional to- mato pesto from Trapani in Sicily. When the garden is exploding with bright and delicious tomatoes, we like to travel with our palates and bring some Southern Italian flavors to the Emilian countryside. Enjoy this tomato dish as a side dish or simply with some nice bread or crostini. We have even tossed it into pasta, to make a fresh pasta that can be served room temperature or even chilled. - MAKE THE SMOKED TOMATOES Preheat the oven to 475°F (250°C/Gas Mark 10). In a large sheet pan, toss the tomatoes with the olive oil and salt. Set the garlic halves on the pan cut side down. Place the pan in the oven and roast until the skin starts to blister and turn brown. This will take 8–10 minutes. Remove the to- matoes from the oven but leave the oven on for the ricotta. Transfer the tomatoes to a smoker set at 122°F (50°C) and let the tomatoes smoke for 20 minutes (see page 188). ROAST THE RICOTTA Meanwhile, break the ricotta into 8 large chunks, drizzle with the olive oil, and season with a sprinkle of salt. Place in the oven and bake until the top becomes golden brown—a crust will form on the ricotta, but the cheese will stay very soft—about 4 minutes. ASSEMBLE THE SALAD In a small blender, combine 31/2 ounces (100 g) of the smoked tomatoes, all the roasted garlic cloves, a scant 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 21/2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil and blend until a smooth puree. Divide the smoked tomatoes evenly among eight bowls. Drizzle each with 11/2 tablespoons basil oil. Make a well in the center of the tomatoes and place a nice 15 g dollop of the tomato and confit garlic puree. Place a chunk of roasted ricotta on top of the puree and finish by garnishing with 3 tablespoons toasted almonds, 2 teaspoons capers, 2 basil leaves, and the lemon zest. 12BREAKFAST SMOKED TRAPANESE HOUSE SAVORIES SMOKED TOMATOES 800 G PERFECTLY RIPE DATTERINI OR CHERRY TOMATOES 5 TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL GENEROUS 1/2 TEASPOON SALT 1 BULB GARLIC, HALVED HORIZONTALLY ROASTED RICOTTA 1 LB (500 G) FIRM FRESH RICOTTA CHEESE 21/2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL SALT SALAD SCANT 1/4 TEASPOON SALT 21/2 TEASPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 3/4 CUP (160 G) BASIL OIL (PAGE 172), PRE- SERVED CHILI OIL (PAGE 173), OR A NICE SPICY EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 51/2 OZ (160 G) TOASTED AND SALTED SICILIAN ALMONDS FROM NOTO, COARSELY CHOPPED 31/2 OZ (100 G) SALTED CAPERS 16 BASIL LEAVES GRATED ZEST OF 2 LEMONS This dish in inspired by a traditional to- mato pesto from Trapani in Sicily. When the garden is exploding with bright and delicious tomatoes, we like to travel with our palates and bring some Southern Italian flavors to the Emilian countryside. Enjoy this tomato dish as a side dish or simply with some nice bread or crostini. We have even tossed it into pasta, to make a fresh pasta that can be served room temperature or even chilled. - MAKE THE SMOKED TOMATOES Preheat the oven to 475°F (250°C/Gas Mark 10). In a large sheet pan, toss the tomatoes with the olive oil and salt. Set the garlic halves on the pan cut side down. Place the pan in the oven and roast until the skin starts to blister and turn brown. This will take 8–10 minutes. Remove the to- matoes from the oven but leave the oven on for the ricotta. Transfer the tomatoes to a smoker set at 122°F (50°C) and let the tomatoes smoke for 20 minutes (see page 188). ROAST THE RICOTTA Meanwhile, break the ricotta into 8 large chunks, drizzle with the olive oil, and season with a sprinkle of salt. Place in the oven and bake until the top becomes golden brown—a crust will form on the ricotta, but the cheese will stay very soft—about 4 minutes. ASSEMBLE THE SALAD In a small blender, combine 31/2 ounces (100 g) of the smoked tomatoes, all the roasted garlic cloves, a scant 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 21/2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil and blend until a smooth puree. Divide the smoked tomatoes evenly among eight bowls. Drizzle each with 11/2 tablespoons basil oil. Make a well in the center of the tomatoes and place a nice 15 g dollop of the tomato and confit garlic puree. Place a chunk of roasted ricotta on top of the puree and finish by garnishing with 3 tablespoons toasted almonds, 2 teaspoons capers, 2 basil leaves, and the lemon zest. 14BREAKFAST SABA-GLAZED COD AND PORCINI TOLA DOLZA1514BREAKFAST SABA-GLAZED COD AND PORCINI TOLA DOLZA15Next >