45 aperitivo Yoghurt flatbreads A flatbread that doesn’t require yeast or long rising times. From start to finish, it takes about 45 minutes, with no baking skills required. in a medium mixing bowl, combine the flour, yoghurt, baking powder and salt. Mix until a dough starts to form. remove the dough from the bowl and knead on a flour-dusted bench for about 2 minutes. add enough flour so the dough does not completely stick to your hands, but don’t overdo it or your flatbreads will be dry. divide the dough into 6 pieces and shape each piece into a ball. coat each ball with a small amount of olive oil and place them on an oiled plate. cover with a tea towel and rest for about 30 minutes. take the balls of dough, one at a time, and use the palm of your hand to press them onto your bench to form flat discs or ovals, about 2–3 mm (1⁄16–⅛ inch) thick. heat a medium-sized cast-iron or non-stick frying pan over a medium–high heat. (alternatively, these are excellent cooked on an outdoor grill.) Brush the dough with olive oil and fry each flatbread in the pan (or on a grill) for about 2 minutes per side, until golden and bubbly. Set the cooked flatbreads aside, covered with a tea towel to keep warm while you repeat with the remaining dough. For the optional garnish, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the garlic and sizzle until fragrant. remove from the heat and add the parsley. Brush this onto the cooked, warm flatbreads. Serving suggestions: These flatbreads are excellent piled high with raw vegetables and a little hummus for a simple lunch, or are a perfect accompaniment to a bowl of soup. Try them with the Pumpkin, curry leaf and coconut soup (see page 64) or with the Chicken thighs with spiced ghee and yoghurt (see page 180). Makes: 6 flatbreads Active time: 15 minutes Inactive time: 30 minutes Kitchenalia: Pastry brush 1⅓ cups (200 g) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting Scant 1 cup (220 g) Greek-style plain yoghurt 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon fine sea salt Scant 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing Optional garnish 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 45Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4525/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am 44 Smoky eggplant with garlic, harissa, mint and feta, with yoghurt flatbreads Taking its cue from the region where the Mediterranean meets the Middle East, this simple summer snack is particularly good for those days when it’s almost too hot to cook. It’s a happy coincidence that a chilled glass of rosé is the perfect companion for this dish. The accompanying flatbreads are one of the few “breads” that I believe are worth nailing at home. The absolute delight of warm, freshly baked bread, with none of the hassle. A home cooking gem. poke a few holes into each eggplant, using a paring knife, to allow steam to escape as they cook. Burn the eggplants until completely charred and soft all the way through – you can do this over an open gas flame, an outdoor grill, or on a grill pan over a high heat on your stove top. once completely soft, place the eggplants in a bowl and cover tightly with aluminium foil to finish steaming as they cool. in a small saucepan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat. once hot, add the garlic and harissa. allow to sizzle for a minute, then remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside. remove the charred skin of the eggplants, leaving the top stem attached (for presentation). place the eggplants on a serving platter and slice them into chunks. Spoon the garlic and harissa oil over the eggplants and add a squeeze of lemon juice. crumble the feta over the top and sprinkle with the mint leaves. Serve with warm yoghurt flatbreads. Makes: Enough to serve 6 Active time: 25 minutes Inactive time: 30 minutes Kitchenalia: Outdoor grill or indoor grill pan (optional) 2 large purple eggplants (aubergines) ⅓ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons harissa paste 1 tablespoon lemon juice 70 g (2½ oz) Greek or Bulgarian-style feta ¼ cup (5 g) mint leaves (preferably round mint) To serve Yoghurt flatbreads (see opposite) Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 44Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4425/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p44 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p45 45 aperitivo Yoghurt flatbreads A flatbread that doesn’t require yeast or long rising times. From start to finish, it takes about 45 minutes, with no baking skills required. in a medium mixing bowl, combine the flour, yoghurt, baking powder and salt. Mix until a dough starts to form. remove the dough from the bowl and knead on a flour-dusted bench for about 2 minutes. add enough flour so the dough does not completely stick to your hands, but don’t overdo it or your flatbreads will be dry. divide the dough into 6 pieces and shape each piece into a ball. coat each ball with a small amount of olive oil and place them on an oiled plate. cover with a tea towel and rest for about 30 minutes. take the balls of dough, one at a time, and use the palm of your hand to press them onto your bench to form flat discs or ovals, about 2–3 mm (1⁄16–⅛ inch) thick. heat a medium-sized cast-iron or non-stick frying pan over a medium–high heat. (alternatively, these are excellent cooked on an outdoor grill.) Brush the dough with olive oil and fry each flatbread in the pan (or on a grill) for about 2 minutes per side, until golden and bubbly. Set the cooked flatbreads aside, covered with a tea towel to keep warm while you repeat with the remaining dough. For the optional garnish, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the garlic and sizzle until fragrant. remove from the heat and add the parsley. Brush this onto the cooked, warm flatbreads. Serving suggestions: These flatbreads are excellent piled high with raw vegetables and a little hummus for a simple lunch, or are a perfect accompaniment to a bowl of soup. Try them with the Pumpkin, curry leaf and coconut soup (see page 64) or with the Chicken thighs with spiced ghee and yoghurt (see page 180). Makes: 6 flatbreads Active time: 15 minutes Inactive time: 30 minutes Kitchenalia: Pastry brush 1⅓ cups (200 g) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting Scant 1 cup (220 g) Greek-style plain yoghurt 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon fine sea salt Scant 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing Optional garnish 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 garlic clove, minced 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 45Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4525/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am 44 Smoky eggplant with garlic, harissa, mint and feta, with yoghurt flatbreads Taking its cue from the region where the Mediterranean meets the Middle East, this simple summer snack is particularly good for those days when it’s almost too hot to cook. It’s a happy coincidence that a chilled glass of rosé is the perfect companion for this dish. The accompanying flatbreads are one of the few “breads” that I believe are worth nailing at home. The absolute delight of warm, freshly baked bread, with none of the hassle. A home cooking gem. poke a few holes into each eggplant, using a paring knife, to allow steam to escape as they cook. Burn the eggplants until completely charred and soft all the way through – you can do this over an open gas flame, an outdoor grill, or on a grill pan over a high heat on your stove top. once completely soft, place the eggplants in a bowl and cover tightly with aluminium foil to finish steaming as they cool. in a small saucepan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat. once hot, add the garlic and harissa. allow to sizzle for a minute, then remove the saucepan from the heat and set aside. remove the charred skin of the eggplants, leaving the top stem attached (for presentation). place the eggplants on a serving platter and slice them into chunks. Spoon the garlic and harissa oil over the eggplants and add a squeeze of lemon juice. crumble the feta over the top and sprinkle with the mint leaves. Serve with warm yoghurt flatbreads. Makes: Enough to serve 6 Active time: 25 minutes Inactive time: 30 minutes Kitchenalia: Outdoor grill or indoor grill pan (optional) 2 large purple eggplants (aubergines) ⅓ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons harissa paste 1 tablespoon lemon juice 70 g (2½ oz) Greek or Bulgarian-style feta ¼ cup (5 g) mint leaves (preferably round mint) To serve Yoghurt flatbreads (see opposite) Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 44Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4425/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p44 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p45 47 aperitivo Smoky eggplant with garlic, harissa, mint and feta, with yoghurt flatbreads Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 47Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4725/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am 46 Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 46Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4625/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p46 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p47 47 aperitivo Smoky eggplant with garlic, harissa, mint and feta, with yoghurt flatbreads Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 47Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4725/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am 46 Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 46Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 4625/5/23 9:17 am25/5/23 9:17 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p46 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p47 197 the Main event Cooked dried borlotti beans if you’re using dried beans, soak them overnight (or for at least 8 hours) covered by about 5 cm (2 inches) of cold water in your fridge. if using fresh beans, you can skip this step. drain the beans and add them to a pot. cover with 6–7 cm (2½–2¾ inches) of cold water and add in the bicarbonate of soda, along with the onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, salt and olive oil. if you’re using fresh beans, leave out the bicarbonate of soda. Bring the pot to a low simmer and cook slowly, with the lid left slightly ajar, for 1½–2 hours. Fresh beans will take closer to 40 minutes, just keep checking them. if at any point the water level is no longer covering the beans and they haven’t finished cooking, add ½ cup (125 ml) water and continue cooking until the beans are tender and creamy, but not falling apart. remove and discard the onion, celery, carrot and bay leaf, but keep the liquid the beans have been cooking in. the beans are now ready to use. allow any leftover beans to cool in their liquid (draining cooked beans while they’re still hot causes them to explode) and store them in your fridge for a few days, or in your freezer indefinitely. Be sure to always store cooked beans in their liquid, only draining them just before using. Makes: 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) cooked borlotti beans Active time: 5 minutes Inactive time: 10 hours Before you begin: If you’re using dried beans, they’ll need to be soaked for at least 8 hours. This recipe makes more than is required for the Rainbow trout dish, but cooked beans are great to have in your fridge or freezer to add to soups (with their broth) or salads. 1 cup (200 g) dried borlotti beans (or fresh, if you’re lucky!) Pinch of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) Half a small brown onion 1 stalk celery, cut into 3 pieces 1 carrot, cut into 2 pieces 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Note: I add a pinch of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) to dried beans when they cook, to help soften their skins. It also makes them cook faster. A pinch is a tiny amount, never more than 1 — 4 teaspoon – add too much and the beans can turn to mush. Serving suggestion: Use leftover beans to make the Cavolo nero and farinata soup (see page 61). Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 197Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19725/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am 196 Rainbow trout with red wine and borlotti beans You may not have considered cooking fish with red wine, but trout lends itself exceptionally well to this accompaniment. thoroughly dry the skin of the trout using paper towel and season it with salt and pepper. Set the fish aside and let it come to room temperature. in a small saucepan set over a medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. add in the rosemary, garlic and cherry tomatoes with a pinch of salt. after about 1 minute, add in the borlotti beans, with their liquid and the red wine, and simmer for about 6–7 minutes. this can be left to simmer while you cook the fish. preheat a cast-iron grill or flat cast-iron pan over a medium–high heat. Brush the skin of the trout liberally with olive oil and, when the pan is really hot, add the fish, skin-side down. Gently press down on the fillets for the first minute, using your spatula, to help them stay in contact with the pan and not bow upwards in the middle. cook the fillets for 4–5 minutes on the one side until they look almost completely cooked but are still slightly undercooked on top (see notes). carefully lift the fillets out of the pan and place them onto warm plates. check the beans for seasoning and adjust with salt as needed. Spoon the beans over the fish, drizzle with olive oil and finish with fried rosemary or flat-leaf parsley. Serve hot. Notes: All recipes calling for rainbow trout in this book will work with wild salmon if you’re lucky to have access to that where you live. I do not like ocean-farmed Atlantic salmon for the devastating effects it has on the environment, so I cannot endorse using it. I slightly undercook the fish so it doesn’t fall apart when you try to lift it out of the pan, but also because it will continue to cook on the plate, especially when you spoon the hot borlotti beans over it. To lightly fry rosemary, heat 1 _ 4 cup (60 ml) of neutral oil in a small pot over a medium–high heat until hot. Add a handful of rosemary leaves and fry for a few seconds, until just crisp. Use a skimmer or spoon to remove the fried rosemary from the oil and drain on paper towel. Makes: Enough to serve 2 Active time: 25 minutes Before you begin: You’ll need cooked borlotti beans for this dish (see opposite page) but feel free to swap them for a 400 g (14 oz) tin of cooked borlotti beans. The tinned beans will just need to be rinsed with water, then combined with 1 — 4 cup (60ml) water or chicken stock. 2 x 150–180 g (5½–6¼ oz) rainbow trout fillets, boneless, skin on (see notes) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing ½ teaspoon finely chopped rosemary 3 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup (40 g) quartered cherry tomatoes 400 g (14 oz) cooked borlotti beans, with their liquid (see opposite page), or 1 x 400 g (14 oz) tin (see above) ½ cup (125 ml) red wine Fine sea salt Freshly cracked black pepper To finish Good-quality extra-virgin olive oil Lightly-fried rosemary (see notes) or flat-leaf parsley Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 196Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19625/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p196 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p197 197 the Main event Cooked dried borlotti beans if you’re using dried beans, soak them overnight (or for at least 8 hours) covered by about 5 cm (2 inches) of cold water in your fridge. if using fresh beans, you can skip this step. drain the beans and add them to a pot. cover with 6–7 cm (2½–2¾ inches) of cold water and add in the bicarbonate of soda, along with the onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf, salt and olive oil. if you’re using fresh beans, leave out the bicarbonate of soda. Bring the pot to a low simmer and cook slowly, with the lid left slightly ajar, for 1½–2 hours. Fresh beans will take closer to 40 minutes, just keep checking them. if at any point the water level is no longer covering the beans and they haven’t finished cooking, add ½ cup (125 ml) water and continue cooking until the beans are tender and creamy, but not falling apart. remove and discard the onion, celery, carrot and bay leaf, but keep the liquid the beans have been cooking in. the beans are now ready to use. allow any leftover beans to cool in their liquid (draining cooked beans while they’re still hot causes them to explode) and store them in your fridge for a few days, or in your freezer indefinitely. Be sure to always store cooked beans in their liquid, only draining them just before using. Makes: 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) cooked borlotti beans Active time: 5 minutes Inactive time: 10 hours Before you begin: If you’re using dried beans, they’ll need to be soaked for at least 8 hours. This recipe makes more than is required for the Rainbow trout dish, but cooked beans are great to have in your fridge or freezer to add to soups (with their broth) or salads. 1 cup (200 g) dried borlotti beans (or fresh, if you’re lucky!) Pinch of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) Half a small brown onion 1 stalk celery, cut into 3 pieces 1 carrot, cut into 2 pieces 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Note: I add a pinch of bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) to dried beans when they cook, to help soften their skins. It also makes them cook faster. A pinch is a tiny amount, never more than 1 — 4 teaspoon – add too much and the beans can turn to mush. Serving suggestion: Use leftover beans to make the Cavolo nero and farinata soup (see page 61). Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 197Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19725/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am 196 Rainbow trout with red wine and borlotti beans You may not have considered cooking fish with red wine, but trout lends itself exceptionally well to this accompaniment. thoroughly dry the skin of the trout using paper towel and season it with salt and pepper. Set the fish aside and let it come to room temperature. in a small saucepan set over a medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. add in the rosemary, garlic and cherry tomatoes with a pinch of salt. after about 1 minute, add in the borlotti beans, with their liquid and the red wine, and simmer for about 6–7 minutes. this can be left to simmer while you cook the fish. preheat a cast-iron grill or flat cast-iron pan over a medium–high heat. Brush the skin of the trout liberally with olive oil and, when the pan is really hot, add the fish, skin-side down. Gently press down on the fillets for the first minute, using your spatula, to help them stay in contact with the pan and not bow upwards in the middle. cook the fillets for 4–5 minutes on the one side until they look almost completely cooked but are still slightly undercooked on top (see notes). carefully lift the fillets out of the pan and place them onto warm plates. check the beans for seasoning and adjust with salt as needed. Spoon the beans over the fish, drizzle with olive oil and finish with fried rosemary or flat-leaf parsley. Serve hot. Notes: All recipes calling for rainbow trout in this book will work with wild salmon if you’re lucky to have access to that where you live. I do not like ocean-farmed Atlantic salmon for the devastating effects it has on the environment, so I cannot endorse using it. I slightly undercook the fish so it doesn’t fall apart when you try to lift it out of the pan, but also because it will continue to cook on the plate, especially when you spoon the hot borlotti beans over it. To lightly fry rosemary, heat 1 _ 4 cup (60 ml) of neutral oil in a small pot over a medium–high heat until hot. Add a handful of rosemary leaves and fry for a few seconds, until just crisp. Use a skimmer or spoon to remove the fried rosemary from the oil and drain on paper towel. Makes: Enough to serve 2 Active time: 25 minutes Before you begin: You’ll need cooked borlotti beans for this dish (see opposite page) but feel free to swap them for a 400 g (14 oz) tin of cooked borlotti beans. The tinned beans will just need to be rinsed with water, then combined with 1 — 4 cup (60ml) water or chicken stock. 2 x 150–180 g (5½–6¼ oz) rainbow trout fillets, boneless, skin on (see notes) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing ½ teaspoon finely chopped rosemary 3 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup (40 g) quartered cherry tomatoes 400 g (14 oz) cooked borlotti beans, with their liquid (see opposite page), or 1 x 400 g (14 oz) tin (see above) ½ cup (125 ml) red wine Fine sea salt Freshly cracked black pepper To finish Good-quality extra-virgin olive oil Lightly-fried rosemary (see notes) or flat-leaf parsley Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 196Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19625/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p196 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25 BlackTEXT BLACKYellowMagentaCyan p197 199 the Main event rainbow trout with red wine and borlotti beans Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 199Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19925/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am 198 Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 198Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19825/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p198 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p199199 the Main event rainbow trout with red wine and borlotti beans Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 199Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19925/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am 198 Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 198Alvarez_TEXT SI_24.indd 19825/5/23 9:20 am25/5/23 9:20 am Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p198 Beautiful_Cooking_TXT 23-05-25TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan p199Next >