DARRA GOLDSTEIN CORTNEY BURNS RICHARD MARTIN VOLUME 2 PRESERVED Fr uit PR ESER VED 2 GOLDSTEIN / BURNS / MARTIN Fr uit FRUIT IS BY ITS NATURE EPHEMERAL, MAKING PRESERVING IT SOMETHING OF A NECESSITY. Most often this leads to jams and jellies, but what about the less expected outcomes of fruit preserving, ones that create a dynamic interplay of sweet and spicy, or sweet or bright? Preserved: Fruit offers a new template for fruit preserving with recipes for the Mexican chile sauce Chamoy, to drape over ripe mangoes; pickled green straw- berries adding a pop of bright acidity to cheese plates; and a pomegranate molasses to drizzle over grilled meats. For those inclined towards uncompli- cated sweetness, there is the classic brandy soaked Tutti Frutti to spoon over ice cream (or bake into a cake), and the delicately fragranced cherry and rose petal jam. Packed with history, kitchen inspiration, and unabashedly delicious recipes—all gorgeously photographed—Preserved: Fruit is your guide to new culinary adventures. US $22.00 UK £15.00 COOKINGVOLUME 2 PRESERVED Fruit DARRA GOLDSTEIN / CORTNEY BURNS / RICHARD MARTIN PHOTO GR APHY BY DAVID MALOSHVOLUME 2 PRESERVED Fruit DARRA GOLDSTEIN / CORTNEY BURNS / RICHARD MARTIN PHOTO GR APHY BY DAVID MALOSHRECIPES 7 Sweet-Tart Apple Butter 8 Apple Stack Cake 12 Brined Watermelon 15 Amba 19 Chamoy Sauce 20 Red Currant and Juniper “Cheese” 25 Silver Lime and Blue Tuscan Rosemary Jelly BY JUNE TAYLOR 29 Fruit Scrap Vinegar 29 Fruit Scrap Vinegar Syrup 30 Blueberries in the Style of Capers 33 Sicilian Candied Figs 34 Fermented Honey Charoset 38 Hoshigaki 41 Lemon Butter–Stuffed Hoshigaki 42 Preserved Lemons 43 Preserved Lemon Paste 46 Date Balls with Preserved Lemon Paste 53 Churchkhela 57 Pickled Green Strawberries 58 Pickled Cherry and Rose Petal Jam 62 Pear and Apple Spread 65 Jammy Oat Bars 73 Very Berry Maple Syrup 74 Candied Quince 79 Spicy Citrus Peel Paste 80 Tutti Frutti 82 Tutti Frutti Fruitcake 87 Fruit Leather 88 Fruit Paste 91 Pomegranate Molasses 92 Cranberry-Orange Shrub 95 Green Plum and Fig Leaf Elixir CONTENTS 1 In Sweetness and in Health 23 Q&A: June Taylor 49 Churchkhela 67 Sugar Rush 99 Notes on Canning 100 Notes on Ingredients 101 Notes on Equipment 102 Index 104 AcknowledgmentsRECIPES 7 Sweet-Tart Apple Butter 8 Apple Stack Cake 12 Brined Watermelon 15 Amba 19 Chamoy Sauce 20 Red Currant and Juniper “Cheese” 25 Silver Lime and Blue Tuscan Rosemary Jelly BY JUNE TAYLOR 29 Fruit Scrap Vinegar 29 Fruit Scrap Vinegar Syrup 30 Blueberries in the Style of Capers 33 Sicilian Candied Figs 34 Fermented Honey Charoset 38 Hoshigaki 41 Lemon Butter–Stuffed Hoshigaki 42 Preserved Lemons 43 Preserved Lemon Paste 46 Date Balls with Preserved Lemon Paste 53 Churchkhela 57 Pickled Green Strawberries 58 Pickled Cherry and Rose Petal Jam 62 Pear and Apple Spread 65 Jammy Oat Bars 73 Very Berry Maple Syrup 74 Candied Quince 79 Spicy Citrus Peel Paste 80 Tutti Frutti 82 Tutti Frutti Fruitcake 87 Fruit Leather 88 Fruit Paste 91 Pomegranate Molasses 92 Cranberry-Orange Shrub 95 Green Plum and Fig Leaf Elixir CONTENTS 1 In Sweetness and in Health 23 Q&A: June Taylor 49 Churchkhela 67 Sugar Rush 99 Notes on Canning 100 Notes on Ingredients 101 Notes on Equipment 102 Index 104 Acknowledgments41 FRUIT MAKES 12 to 16 PLAYING with PRESERVES Lemon Butter–Stuffed Hoshigaki Japanese wagashi shops offer a wonderland of beautifully displayed confections. Among them you’re likely to find artistic renditions of seasonal fruits and nuts, many of which appear almost too stunning to eat. Here we honor that culinary tradition by dressing up another Japanese delicacy, hoshigaki, dried persimmons, with a luscious filling of preserved lemon butter, then slicing the fruit into elegant strips. Hoshigaki are so delicious on their own that it’s hardly necessary to adorn them, but once you’ve had a bite of chewy persimmons paired with creamy, salty- sweet butter, we’re sure you’ll agree that the combination is divine, worthy of a spot among more traditional jewel-like wagashi. 1 cup / 225 g unsalted cultured butter, at room temperature 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons / 35 g preserved lemon paste, homemade (page 43) or store bought 12 to 16 Hoshigaki (page 38) In a medium bowl, using a hand-held mixer, cream the butter until light and fluffy, then stir in the lemon zest and the preserved lemon paste. Set aside. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the hoshigaki on a cutting board and cut off the stem end. Then make a slice down the side of each hoshigaki, cutting through almost, but not quite, to the other side. Open the hoshigaki like a book. Scoop 1 to 2 tablespoons of the butter into the cavity and gently fold the top half over it, pressing lightly to make an even layer inside the fruit. With the back of a spoon or an offset spatula, scrape any excess butter from the edges, smoothing it to create a tidy package. As you finish filling each one, place it on the prepared baking sheet. Once all are ready, place the baking sheet in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to firm up the butter. To serve, remove the hoshigaki from the refrigerator and cut into 1/2-inch / 1.25 cm slices. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, where they will keep for 2 weeks.41 FRUIT MAKES 12 to 16 PLAYING with PRESERVES Lemon Butter–Stuffed Hoshigaki Japanese wagashi shops offer a wonderland of beautifully displayed confections. Among them you’re likely to find artistic renditions of seasonal fruits and nuts, many of which appear almost too stunning to eat. Here we honor that culinary tradition by dressing up another Japanese delicacy, hoshigaki, dried persimmons, with a luscious filling of preserved lemon butter, then slicing the fruit into elegant strips. Hoshigaki are so delicious on their own that it’s hardly necessary to adorn them, but once you’ve had a bite of chewy persimmons paired with creamy, salty- sweet butter, we’re sure you’ll agree that the combination is divine, worthy of a spot among more traditional jewel-like wagashi. 1 cup / 225 g unsalted cultured butter, at room temperature 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons / 35 g preserved lemon paste, homemade (page 43) or store bought 12 to 16 Hoshigaki (page 38) In a medium bowl, using a hand-held mixer, cream the butter until light and fluffy, then stir in the lemon zest and the preserved lemon paste. Set aside. Line a small baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the hoshigaki on a cutting board and cut off the stem end. Then make a slice down the side of each hoshigaki, cutting through almost, but not quite, to the other side. Open the hoshigaki like a book. Scoop 1 to 2 tablespoons of the butter into the cavity and gently fold the top half over it, pressing lightly to make an even layer inside the fruit. With the back of a spoon or an offset spatula, scrape any excess butter from the edges, smoothing it to create a tidy package. As you finish filling each one, place it on the prepared baking sheet. Once all are ready, place the baking sheet in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to firm up the butter. To serve, remove the hoshigaki from the refrigerator and cut into 1/2-inch / 1.25 cm slices. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, where they will keep for 2 weeks.Next >