VOLUME 1 PRESERVED C ond ime nts DARRA GOLDSTEIN CORTNEY BURNS RICHARD MARTIN C ond ime nts 1 PR ESER VED CONDIMENTS HAVE BEEN AT THE HEART OF FOOD PRESERVATION FOR MOST OF HUMAN HISTORY. In fact, the word itself originally referred to any substance that prevented food from spoiling. But condiments have out- grown these utilitarian beginnings, and now hold the power to transform the humblest of dishes into something revelatory. Imagine adding a fiery and aromatic zhug to cool yogurt to make the ultimate saucy accompa- niment to grilled meats, or a vibrant ruby-red horseradish to serve alongside tinned fish at your next picnic. Faced with end of season tomatoes, why not make your own ketchup? A little less sweet, and with a lot more tang, this version is bound to replace whatever bottle you have in your fridge. Elevating the unsung culinary heroes to star status with stories, history, and showcasing recipes for delicious sauces, spreads, relishes, and chutneys, Preserved: Condiments brings a world of flavors to your kitchen and depth, spice, and interest to your cooking. GOLDSTEIN / BURNS / MARTIN US $22.00 UK £15.00 COOKINGVOLUME 1 PRESERVED Condiments DARRA GOLDSTEIN / CORTNEY BURNS / RICHARD MARTIN PHOTO GR APHY BY DAVID MALOSHVOLUME 1 PRESERVED Condiments DARRA GOLDSTEIN / CORTNEY BURNS / RICHARD MARTIN PHOTO GR APHY BY DAVID MALOSHRECIPES 7 Zhug 8 Piccalilli 14 Red Plum Hoisin Sauce 16 Harissa 21 Adjika 22 Black Bean Sauce 31 Honey Mustard 32 Gardal 35 Rémoulade 38 Herbes Salées 43 Beet Chrain 46 Gooseberry Achar 48 Preserved Lime Achar 49 Preserved Limes 53 Ginger-Sesame Chutney 54 Black Garlic Barbecue Sauce 55 Homemade Black Garlic 58 Worcestershire Sauce 64 Bumper Crop Ketchup 65 Fermented Tomato Paste 69 Mushroom Catsup 73 Black Salt 76 Poggi Kimchi 80 Sweet and Sour Pickled Mushrooms 82 Gochujang 87 Mostarda di Frutta 88 Salsa Macha with Pickled Peanuts 94 Pikliz CONTENTS 1 A World of Flavors 3 My Deepest Condiments BY TAYLOR MALI 25 Mustard 44 Indian Pickles BY VIKRAM DOCTOR 61 Ketchup 74 Banchan BY EDWARD LEE 99 Notes on Canning 100 Notes on Ingredients 101 Notes on Equipment 102 Index 104 AcknowledgmentsRECIPES 7 Zhug 8 Piccalilli 14 Red Plum Hoisin Sauce 16 Harissa 21 Adjika 22 Black Bean Sauce 31 Honey Mustard 32 Gardal 35 Rémoulade 38 Herbes Salées 43 Beet Chrain 46 Gooseberry Achar 48 Preserved Lime Achar 49 Preserved Limes 53 Ginger-Sesame Chutney 54 Black Garlic Barbecue Sauce 55 Homemade Black Garlic 58 Worcestershire Sauce 64 Bumper Crop Ketchup 65 Fermented Tomato Paste 69 Mushroom Catsup 73 Black Salt 76 Poggi Kimchi 80 Sweet and Sour Pickled Mushrooms 82 Gochujang 87 Mostarda di Frutta 88 Salsa Macha with Pickled Peanuts 94 Pikliz CONTENTS 1 A World of Flavors 3 My Deepest Condiments BY TAYLOR MALI 25 Mustard 44 Indian Pickles BY VIKRAM DOCTOR 61 Ketchup 74 Banchan BY EDWARD LEE 99 Notes on Canning 100 Notes on Ingredients 101 Notes on Equipment 102 Index 104 Acknowledgments7 CONDIMENTS MAKES 1 PINT or 475 MILLILITERS Zhug For its popular appeal, the spicy Yemeni cilantro sauce known as zhug has been described as “the next Sriracha.” This condiment is indeed fiery hot with chile pep- pers, but it is also aromatic with spices and herbaceous notes of cilantro and parsley. In Yemen, this condiment is known by its Arabic name, sahawiq, which refers to the traditional method of preparation by pounding the herbs into a paste between two stones. Today, it is better known around the world by its Hebrew name of zhug. Between 1949 and 1950, thousands of Yemeni Jews were airlifted to Israel, where they introduced this treasured condiment to their new home. Zhug soon became a staple of Israeli cuisine, and over the past decade, thanks to the trendiness of Israeli food, zhug has become a fixture in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurants. Zhug is usually served freshly made, when it tastes bold and vivacious. We take it a step further, fermenting the herbs and spices to transform the sauce slightly but meaningfully. Fermentation adds not only complexity but also a more entrenched heat as the sauce deepens from bright green to olive. 10 large garlic cloves, crushed 4 packed cups / 120 g cilantro leaves (about 2 large bunches) 2 packed cups / 120 g parsley leaves (about 1 large bunch) 12 serrano or green jalapeño chiles, stemmed and thinly sliced 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon sumac powder 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo or other dried red pepper flakes 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 2 tablespoons / 30 ml freshly squeezed lime juice In a food processor, pulse the garlic until finely minced. Add the cilantro, parsley, chiles, salt, cumin, black pepper, coriander, sumac, red pepper, cardamom, and lime juice. Pulse to make a fine paste. Pack into a 1-pint / 475 ml canning jar. There should be a bit of headspace between the mixture and the lid; if not, transfer the paste to a slightly larger container. Place a piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper directly against the surface of the paste and screw the lid onto the jar loosely. Leave the zhug to ferment at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 7 to 10 days. To release any gas pressure that builds up, unscrew the lid a couple times a day for the first few days, replac- ing the lid each time. By day 7, the paste will have turned from a verdant green to a duskier hue. At this point, taste the zhug to determine whether you like its degree of acidity. If not, let it ferment a bit longer; it can take up to 2 weeks to fully develop in flavor. When the zhug is ready, place a fresh piece of plastic wrap or parchment directly on the surface and close the lid tightly. It will keep for 6 months in the refrigerator. SERVING SUGGESTIONS USE TO MARINATE FISH / MIX WITH CHICKPEAS OR OTHER LEGUMES FOR A HEARTY SALAD BASE / WHISK INTO OLIVE OIL OR GREEK YOGURT FOR A READY DIP7 CONDIMENTS MAKES 1 PINT or 475 MILLILITERS Zhug For its popular appeal, the spicy Yemeni cilantro sauce known as zhug has been described as “the next Sriracha.” This condiment is indeed fiery hot with chile pep- pers, but it is also aromatic with spices and herbaceous notes of cilantro and parsley. In Yemen, this condiment is known by its Arabic name, sahawiq, which refers to the traditional method of preparation by pounding the herbs into a paste between two stones. Today, it is better known around the world by its Hebrew name of zhug. Between 1949 and 1950, thousands of Yemeni Jews were airlifted to Israel, where they introduced this treasured condiment to their new home. Zhug soon became a staple of Israeli cuisine, and over the past decade, thanks to the trendiness of Israeli food, zhug has become a fixture in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern restaurants. Zhug is usually served freshly made, when it tastes bold and vivacious. We take it a step further, fermenting the herbs and spices to transform the sauce slightly but meaningfully. Fermentation adds not only complexity but also a more entrenched heat as the sauce deepens from bright green to olive. 10 large garlic cloves, crushed 4 packed cups / 120 g cilantro leaves (about 2 large bunches) 2 packed cups / 120 g parsley leaves (about 1 large bunch) 12 serrano or green jalapeño chiles, stemmed and thinly sliced 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1/2 teaspoon sumac powder 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo or other dried red pepper flakes 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 2 tablespoons / 30 ml freshly squeezed lime juice In a food processor, pulse the garlic until finely minced. Add the cilantro, parsley, chiles, salt, cumin, black pepper, coriander, sumac, red pepper, cardamom, and lime juice. Pulse to make a fine paste. Pack into a 1-pint / 475 ml canning jar. There should be a bit of headspace between the mixture and the lid; if not, transfer the paste to a slightly larger container. Place a piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper directly against the surface of the paste and screw the lid onto the jar loosely. Leave the zhug to ferment at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 7 to 10 days. To release any gas pressure that builds up, unscrew the lid a couple times a day for the first few days, replac- ing the lid each time. By day 7, the paste will have turned from a verdant green to a duskier hue. At this point, taste the zhug to determine whether you like its degree of acidity. If not, let it ferment a bit longer; it can take up to 2 weeks to fully develop in flavor. When the zhug is ready, place a fresh piece of plastic wrap or parchment directly on the surface and close the lid tightly. It will keep for 6 months in the refrigerator. SERVING SUGGESTIONS USE TO MARINATE FISH / MIX WITH CHICKPEAS OR OTHER LEGUMES FOR A HEARTY SALAD BASE / WHISK INTO OLIVE OIL OR GREEK YOGURT FOR A READY DIPNext >