< Previous11 Introduction Now each part of this region is creating its own culinary culture. The Similkameen Valley is still mainly farm country, a deep, narrow, winding valley where rocky soils and dry winds create perfect conditions for organic farming. The Crowsnest Highway as it passes through Cawston and Keremeos is still lined with family- owned fruit stands that have been passed down from generation to generation. Dining here is casual, and profoundly ingredient led. To the north, the Shuswap is famous for its summertime houseboating scene and its many golf courses. This is cool-climate wine country— the first winery opened in 1997—with a small but growing food scene driven by producers making cheese, raising bison or developing sustainable aquaculture. And to the west, the North and South Thompson Rivers meet at Kamloops, which is also the confluence of Highways 1, 5 and 97. For a long time, this was known mainly as a place to stop for a burger or a double-double as you travelled through town. But in 2010, the first brew pub opened, followed in 2012 by the first winery—and suddenly “the Loops” had a dynamic restaurant scene of its own. Dining in the Thompson-Okanagan is rarely fussy or fancy. But look a little closer and you will see serious skill on each plate. The region’s chefs are quietly bringing world- class techniques to the table, taking the golden beets, tomatillos, wild mushrooms, haskap berries—and everything that grows so abundantly in every micro-season—and transforming it all into the kinds of meals that would tickle a Michelin reviewer’s palate. Then again, like us, sometimes they are happy just to eat a peach.FRANKIE WE SALUTE YOU!FRANKIE WE SALUTE YOU! Christina and Brian Skinner Kelowna 12 It’s impossible to talk about the food of the Thompson- Okanagan without also talking about the wine. These are some of the most exciting wine regions in the world, unique in so many ways, from the climate to the soil to the people who work it so passionately. And few people are as well placed to explain what makes these regions so significant as Emily Walker, the wine director at the Naramata Inn (page 108). Unlike most fine-dining restaurants in wine country, the one at the inn isn’t attached to a winery, which gives Walker the opportunity to share wines from all over British Columbia and around the world. As a result, she has prime access to rare bottlings, historic library wines and kooky one-offs that few sommeliers get to taste. And because local winemakers and growers are her guests as well as her suppliers, she gets all the dirt on, well, the dirt. “Our wine region is on the very edge of where grape-growing is possible,” she says. “We’re a region of extremes.” WINE VALLEYSWINE VALLEYS A Conversation with Naramata Inn Wine Director Emily Walker13 around Osoyoos and Oliver. It also left layer upon layer of mineral-rich soils. “We have a huge diversity of soil types,” Walker says. Meanwhile, the Thompson and Similkameen Valleys are close to the Okanagan in terms of distance, but different in almost every other way. Both are east- west valleys (rather than north-south), following rivers rather than lakes: the north and south branches of the Thompson are wide, relatively straight and slow- moving; the Similkameen is narrow, wild and twisty. The Similkameen Valley is likewise narrow and steep, its calcium-carbonate-rich soil, high daytime tempera- tures and brisk winds producing lush, boldly flavoured wines. The arid grasslands of the North Thompson Valley, on the other hand, are built on ancient flood plains, with a bed of limestone and volcanic rock that adds a complex minerality to wines. These are conditions with the potential to grow some of the best wine in the world. But it takes people to make it happen. British Columbia is a very young wine region. Although the first vines were planted here in 1859 and the first commercial winery opened in 1932, the wine industry really only dates to 1990 and the formation of the Vintners Quality Alliance and the B.C. Wine Institute (now Wine Growers B.C.). Today there are some 186 wineries and 10,000 acres planted in the Okanagan, with another 15 wineries in the Similkameen, 8 in the Shuswap and 5 in the Thompson Valley. There has been an enormous increase in quality over the last decade or so, and alongside it, an equally great increase in sustainable wine-growing and wine- making practices. Some 20 percent of the Okanagan’s wine-growing area is now certified organic. In most wine regions, it’s less than 2 percent. And all of this has led to a unique style of wine in a unique region. Our wines, Walker says, have “interesting aromatics, flavour intensity and complexity from sunlight, coupled with freshness, acidity and a bright profile. These two things—bold flavour and bright acidity—rarely go together except in very high-quality wine.” This is a region right on the edge, it turns out, not just of where wine can be made, but of producing some of the world’s greatest wines. The fiftieth parallel of latitude, north or south of the equator, is considered the outer region where quality grape-growing is possible. The northern one runs through both Lake Country and Kamloops. Meanwhile, the forty-ninth parallel at our southern border is further north than Burgundy. As a result, B.C. is considered a cool-climate region, but, as Walker points out, “We don’t fit into the definition of cool climate because of our hot summers. In a normal year, it’s not uncommon for us to break 40° Celsius in Osoyoos, and it’s not uncommon to have a thirty-degree shift in a day—that same vineyard can be 8° Celsius at night.” There are two major effects of this mix of northern location and huge temperature swings. “One benefit of being this far north is the extra sunlight. We need those extra hours of sunlight, because our growing season is so compact,” Walker says. For instance, bud break in B.C. occurs weeks, sometimes months, after it does in California, but we are able to harvest at the same time, thanks to all that extra daylight. The second major impact—the huge temperature swing—is what is known as the diurnal temperature shift. “Those lovely cool nights retain freshness and acidity along with those beautiful aromatics.” It’s not just the climate that makes this a unique wine-growing region. It’s also geography and geol- ogy. Virtually all of the Thompson-Okanagan’s vineyards are located on glacial sediment, although some are also on volcanic soil, ancient seabeds and/or alluvial fans. It’s a mix of soils that is rare, if not unique, on the planet. Some 12,000 years ago, during the last ice age, Glacial Lake Penticton filled the Okanagan Valley— its shoreline was just above where Naramata Road is now—with an ice dam blocking it at McIntyre Bluff. At one point, the dam burst, and the lake flooded what is now the South Okanagan. “It has been described as quite a catastrophic event that dispersed all the sediment and minerals all over the valley,” Walker says. It left behind the lakes (Okanagan, Skaha, Vaseux, Osoyoos) that moderate the valley temperatures, as well as the “kettled” area of Okanagan Falls (its hills and divots caused by giant ice boulders sent flying when the dam burst) and the wider, flatter areas Wine Valleys WINE VALLEYSWINE VALLEYS A Conversation with Naramata Inn Wine Director Emily Walker 18 15 Park Bistro at Watermark Beach Resort Nick Atkins Osoyoos 24 19 Bistro at Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards Merissa Hucul, Neil Martens and Geoff Molloy Peachland 30 The Bistro at Hillside Winery Evan Robertson Naramata 36 Block One Restaurant at 50th Parallel Kevin Deavu Lake Country 42 BNA Brewing Co. & Eatery Justin Best Kelowna 48 Bouchons Bistro Stéphane and Béatrice Facon Kelowna 52 Cannery Brewing Patt Dyck and Thomas Bridson Penticton 58 Chaos Bistro at Ex Nihilo Vineyards Nina Harder and Danny Tipper Lake Country 62 Coccaro Group Luigi and Lauretta Coccaro Kelowna 66 Deep Roots Winery Will Hardman and Chris Van Hooydonk Naramata 70 El Taquero Israel Camarillo Kelowna 74 Frankie We Salute You! Christina and Brian Skinner Kelowna 78 Home Block at CedarCreek Estate Winery Neil Taylor Kelowna 84 Jojo’s Café Joanne Muirhead Osoyoos 88 Karat Julian Helman Kelowna 92 Klippers Organics Kevin and Annamarie Klippenstein Cawston 98 Legend Distilling Dawn and Doug Lennie Naramata 102 The Modest Butcher Dan Carkner West Kelowna 108 Naramata Inn Ned Bell, Stacy Johnston and Minette Lotz Naramata 114 Neverland Tea Cottage Renee Iaci, Gordon Kuang and Terri Tatchell Naramata 118 The Noble Pig Brewhouse Maeghan and Jared Summers Kamloops 124 Old Vines Restaurant at Quails’ Gate Roger Sleiman West Kelowna 130 Poplar Grove Rob Ratcliffe and Michael Ziff Penticton 134 The Restaurant at Phantom Creek Alessa Valdez Oliver 140 Row Fourteen at Klippers Organics Derek Gray Cawston 144 Silver Star Resort Scott Sanderson and Anna Blixhavn Vernon 150 Small Axe Roadhouse Sarah Dudley Enderby 154 Sparkling Hill Resort John Stratton Vernon 158 Sprout Bread Peter van Boekhout Kelowna 162 Taste of the Okanagan Kelly Hale and Linda Murray Kelowna 166 Terrace Restaurant at Mission Hill Family Estate Winery Patrick Gayler West Kelowna 172 The Terrace Restaurant at Monte Creek Winery Romeo Oloresisimo Kamloops 176 Terrafina Restaurant at Hester Creek Adair Scott Oliver 180 Timber Shuswap Chris Whittaker Blind Bay 184 Vineyard Kitchen and Patio at Nighthawk Vineyards Carson Bibby Okanagan Falls 188 Wayne & Freda Jen and Ryan Hawk Penticton THE RESTAURANTSTHE RESTAURANTS 15 Starters and Little Meals 72 Aguachile 163 Autumn Bruschetta 25 Baked Brie with Haskap-Jalapeño Jam 39 Beetroot-Cured Salmon Mosaic and Charred Greens 69 Charred Apple and Triple Cream Brie Tart, Pumpkin Seed Butter, Apricot Gastrique 49 Chicken Liver Mousse with Porto Jelly 174 Moroccan Dip 55 Preserved Lemon Hummus 76 Roasted Beet Baba Ghanoush 64 Snap Pea Bruschetta 104 Things on Toast 178 Wild Mushroom Arancini THE RECIPESTHE RECIPES Salads, Soups and Sides 142 Beets and Sake Kasu Whey 115 Berry Pecan Salad with Neverland Apple Crumble Tea–Infused Raspberry Vinaigrette 133 Buttermilk Soda Bread and Cultured Butter 73 Cactus Salad (Ensalada de Nopales) 97 Creamy Vegan Heirloom Tomato Soup 186 Family Roots Salad 59 Green Apple and Riesling BBQ Sauce 126 Grilled Summer Peach and Burrata Salad 20 Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho 1 55 Okanagan Ribollita 167 Okanagan Spring Asparagus, Morel and Sunchoke Soup 111 Orchard Salad with Poached Pears, Endive and Honey-Caramelized Carrots 122 Ponzu Steak Salad 141 Smashed Peas on New Season’s Potatoes 159 Sprout Focaccia 45 Thai Coconut Curry Broth with Mussels and Clams Brunch Fare 152 Benny Crabitz with Potato Latkes 190 Braised Beef Sandwich with Roasted Garlic and Dijon Aioli 85 House Granola 182 Soft Farm Egg, Morel Mushroom Soy, Crispy Bits and Chives 22 Wild Mushroom and Goat Cheese Quiche with Spring Salad 16 The Recipes Mains 112 Arctic Char with Apple Jam and Hakurei Turnips 175 Beef Barbacoa 46 Beef Rendang 151 Big Ole Yorkie Bowl 160 Braised Lamb with Burrata and Herb Oil 94 Buddha Bowl 60 Cabernet Franc–Braised Short Ribs 51 Classic Bouillabaisse 32 Duck and Waffles 138 Duck Breast with Red Cabbage Purée, Seared Red Cabbage, Pickled Cherries and Miso–Red Wine Jus 81 Orecchiette with Manila Clams, Merguez and Rapini 120 Pickle Fried Chicken 56 Potato, Camembert and Duck Pierogi 147 Potato Gnocchi with Venison Ragù 168 Roasted B.C. Halibut with Dill, New Potatoes and Corn-Glazed Cauliflower 179 Rosemary Lamb Chops with Gnocchi 27 Seafood Fettuccine 165 Smoked Cheddar and Pork Burger with Grilled Okanagan Apples 127 Spring Salmon with Pommes Anna, Morels, Peas and Garden Sorrel Sauce 181 Steak with French Beans, Heirloom Tomatoes, Toasted Hazelnuts and Fresh Herbs 156 Truffle Mushroom Penne Cocktails 101 Blueberry-Basil Punch 100 Lavender Lemonade Cocktail 77 Okanagan Haskap Sour 137 Phantom Creek Smoky Hemingway 65 Summer Spritz Desserts 83 Basque-Style Cheesecake with Marmalade Ice Cream, Salted Caramel and Marcona Almonds 131 Caramel Pot de Crème with Caramelized Peaches, Frosted Almonds and Chantilly Cream 34 Cherry Pavlova Bure 67 Chocolate Pot de Crème with Wine-Spiced Cherries 193 Double Dark Chocolate Mint Cookies 107 Gluten-Free Brownie Trifle 90 Milk Chocolate Mousse with Salted Caramel 86 Oatmeal Raisin or Chocolate Chip Cookies 187 Okanagan Delight 148 Okanagan Fruit Clafoutis with Red Wine Ice Cream 40 Popcorn and Chardonnay Ice Cream Sundae with Sablé Breton, Sesame Miso Caramel, Caramel Popcorn and Vegan Meringue Shards 89 Tempura Chocolate Fondants 116 Vegan Blueberry Almond Joy Teacakes 17 The Recipes18 15 PARK BISTRO 15 PARK BISTRO AT WATERMARK BEACH RESORTAT WATERMARK BEACH RESORT Nick Atkins Osoyoos That led to the creation of the valley’s only lobster bar, while the rest of the menu follows the seasons and relies on produce from nearby farms. The dynamic wine list features mostly labels from the Okanagan and Similkameen— perfect for sitting and sipping on that gorgeous lakeside patio. Even in a valley with plenty of spectacular locations, the Watermark Beach Resort is in an especially enviable spot: right on the shores of Canada’s warmest lake and just steps from charming down- town Osoyoos. This is where you will find 15 Park Bistro, a bright, modern dining room that sprawls out onto a patio where happy guests sip wine and savour chef Nick Atkins’s upscale casual cuisine. Hailing from Calgary, Atkins has competed in Singapore and Hong Kong culinary competitions and later worked at the legendary fine-dining establishment La Chaumière before joining the Vintage Group. But by 2020, he’d started a young family and was looking for a new challenge. The Okanagan beckoned. “I had a friend out here who knew I was looking for work,” he recalls. “We’re outdoorsy people so we thought, yeah, sure.” The owners of the resort were planning a major rebrand of their dark, crowded restaurant, and Atkins was the perfect fit for the new cheerfully contemporary room. “We wanted to bring casual fine-dining to the South Okanagan,” Atkins says. “We wanted to make every dish stand out, for everything to have a ‘wow’ factor. And we wanted to offer something entirely different in the area.”H eir lo om T om ato G az pa ch o, p . 2 020 15 Park Bistro at Watermark Beach Resort Gazpacho Preheat oven to 350°F. Preheat a flame grill over high heat. Roast green pepper over open flame until charred on all sides. Place pepper in a bowl, then cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 4 minutes. Remove burnt skin, stem and seeds. Cut 2 slices of bread into 1-inch cubes. Arrange on a baking sheet and toast for 3 to 5 minutes, turning often, until just crisp on the outside but soft on the inside. Set aside. Place the roasted green pepper and all remaining ingredients, including the remaining 2 slices of bread, into a blender and blend until combined. If needed, adjust seasoning. Chill soup in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Soup can be made the day before serving. Croutons can be stored in an air- tight container until ready to serve. Gazpacho 1 green bell pepper 4 thick slices day-old bread, such as herb focaccia (divided) 3 lbs heirloom tomatoes, cored, seeded and chopped 1 English cucumber, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped 2 cloves garlic 1/2 red onion, roughly chopped 1 to 2 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 1 tsp ground cumin 2 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp sherry vinegar 5 drops Tabasco sauce Juice of 1/2 lemon Lariana Cellars Viognier The Similkameen Valley is famous for its tomatoes. They shine in chef Nick Atkins’s chilled soup, perfect for days when the temperature soars—as it does so often here in the South Okanagan. Fresh cucumber, peppers, onions and spices add complexity, while the basil oil and salsa fresca garnishes transform this gazpacho into something extraordinary. Serves 4 Heirloom Tomato GazpachoHeirloom Tomato GazpachoNext >