< Previous295 Chicken Tagine with Caramelized Tomato Compote MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 1 hour 30 minutes SERVES: 5 Djaj mdarbel is one of the Moroccan kitchen’s tastiest tagines. The sweet tomato compote is cooked separately and then dolloped on the deeply savoury chicken when serving. That compote is equally excellent atop a similarly flavoured beef or lamb tagine. 2 cloves of garlic, minced ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 3 tablespoons olive oil 1.5 kg/3¼ lb bone-in chicken pieces 2 red or yellow onions, finely chopped 12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, tied together 12 sprigs coriander (cilantro), tied together ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 35 g/1¼ oz (¼ cup) whole almonds neutral oil, for frying salt and pepper toasted sesame seeds, to garnish For the caramelized tomato compote: 1.5 kg/3¼ lb ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise and grated, peel discarded (see page 445) 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon salt Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric to a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with the olive oil. Mix well. Add the chicken, piece by piece, turning to coat. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, turning from time to time. MEANWHILE, BEGIN PREPARING THE CARAMELIZED TOMATO COMPOTE: Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt to a sauté pan or frying pan with a lid. Cover and cook over a medium heat for 30 minutes. Stir in the olive oil, sugar, honey and cinnamon and cook, uncovered and stirring frequently, until the tomatoes are caramelized and jammy, about 45 minutes. Spoon into a bowl and set aside. Meanwhile, begin cooking the chicken. Add the chicken and all of the marinade to a large tagine (see page 250). Spread the onions over the top, cover and cook over a medium heat until the chicken is browned on each side, about 10 minutes. Add the parsley, coriander (cilantro), cinnamon and 120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water. Cover and cook over a medium-low heat, moving the chicken from time to time to keep it from sticking, until done but not falling off the bone, about 30 minutes. Remove the lid and reduce the sauce for a few minutes. Remove and discard the herb bouquets. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to the boil, add the almonds and boil for 3–5 minutes; drain. Once cool enough to handle, slip off the skins with your fingers. Spread the almonds out on paper towels to dry. Line a medium plate with paper towels. Heat about 7 mm/1⁄3 inch of neutral oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat until the surface shimmers. Add the almonds and fry for 1–2 minutes until just golden. Transfer with a slotted spoon to the paper towels to drain. To serve from the tagine, spoon the tomato compote over the chicken pieces, sprinkle with sesame seeds and scatter the almonds across the top. Alternatively, arrange the pieces of chicken on a large platter, cover with sauce and spoon over the tomato compote. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, scatter over the almonds and serve. ← Chicken Tagine with Caramelized Tomato Compote295 Chicken Tagine with Caramelized Tomato Compote MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 1 hour 30 minutes SERVES: 5 Djaj mdarbel is one of the Moroccan kitchen’s tastiest tagines. The sweet tomato compote is cooked separately and then dolloped on the deeply savoury chicken when serving. That compote is equally excellent atop a similarly flavoured beef or lamb tagine. 2 cloves of garlic, minced ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 3 tablespoons olive oil 1.5 kg/3¼ lb bone-in chicken pieces 2 red or yellow onions, finely chopped 12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, tied together 12 sprigs coriander (cilantro), tied together ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 35 g/1¼ oz (¼ cup) whole almonds neutral oil, for frying salt and pepper toasted sesame seeds, to garnish For the caramelized tomato compote: 1.5 kg/3¼ lb ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise and grated, peel discarded (see page 445) 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon salt Add the garlic, ginger and turmeric to a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with the olive oil. Mix well. Add the chicken, piece by piece, turning to coat. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, turning from time to time. MEANWHILE, BEGIN PREPARING THE CARAMELIZED TOMATO COMPOTE: Add the tomatoes and a pinch of salt to a sauté pan or frying pan with a lid. Cover and cook over a medium heat for 30 minutes. Stir in the olive oil, sugar, honey and cinnamon and cook, uncovered and stirring frequently, until the tomatoes are caramelized and jammy, about 45 minutes. Spoon into a bowl and set aside. Meanwhile, begin cooking the chicken. Add the chicken and all of the marinade to a large tagine (see page 250). Spread the onions over the top, cover and cook over a medium heat until the chicken is browned on each side, about 10 minutes. Add the parsley, coriander (cilantro), cinnamon and 120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water. Cover and cook over a medium-low heat, moving the chicken from time to time to keep it from sticking, until done but not falling off the bone, about 30 minutes. Remove the lid and reduce the sauce for a few minutes. Remove and discard the herb bouquets. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to the boil, add the almonds and boil for 3–5 minutes; drain. Once cool enough to handle, slip off the skins with your fingers. Spread the almonds out on paper towels to dry. Line a medium plate with paper towels. Heat about 7 mm/1⁄3 inch of neutral oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat until the surface shimmers. Add the almonds and fry for 1–2 minutes until just golden. Transfer with a slotted spoon to the paper towels to drain. To serve from the tagine, spoon the tomato compote over the chicken pieces, sprinkle with sesame seeds and scatter the almonds across the top. Alternatively, arrange the pieces of chicken on a large platter, cover with sauce and spoon over the tomato compote. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, scatter over the almonds and serve. ← Chicken Tagine with Caramelized Tomato Compote335 Stuffed Sardine Pairs MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes SERVES: 4–6 Known as sardine chrak (chrak means ‘coupled’ or ‘partnered’), these stuffed sardine pairs are a favourite street food. Atlantic sardines are often slightly larger than Mediterranean ones and may require a touch more marinade. 24 fresh whole sardines 4 cloves of garlic, minced 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 generous pinch cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice neutral oil, for frying plain (all-purpose) flour, for dredging salt and pepper 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve Butterfly open the sardines. To do this, remove the heads and entrails. Using a thumbnail or knife, open along the stomach. Loosen the central spine by pressing around it with your thumb. Clip the spine towards the tail with kitchen scissors, then take the end and pull up the spine. Remove any remaining bones, then spread open into a single, butterflied fillet. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining fish. Add the garlic, parsley, coriander (cilantro), cumin, paprika and cayenne pepper to a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with the olive oil and lemon juice. Blend well. Lay half of the sardines, skin-side down, on a large plate. Spread about 1 teaspoon of the paste on each, then place a second sardine on top, skin-side up, and gently press together. Heat at least 1.5 cm/2⁄3 inch of neutral oil in a large, deep frying pan over a medium heat until the surface shimmers. Line a plate with paper towels. Put enough flour for coating into a wide bowl and season with salt. Working in batches, fry the sardines. Holding a pair together, dust with the flour and carefully set in the hot oil with tongs. Fry until golden and cooked through, 1–2 minutes, turning as needed. Using tongs, transfer to the paper towels to drain. Fry the remaining fish. Serve immediately with the lemon wedges. Sardines in Escabeche ALGERIA PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 20 minutes SERVES: 4 Skabitch is an herby, oil-and-vinegar marinade found in various places around the Mediterranean, including Algeria. 16 fresh whole sardines (about 500 g/1 lb 2 oz total) plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting 360 ml/12 fl oz (1½ cups) olive oil, plus extra if needed 6 cloves of garlic, lightly crushed in the skin 1 small red onion, cut crosswise into thin slices 2 bay leaves 1 heaped tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 120 ml/4 fl oz (½ cup) white vinegar salt Scale, clean and remove the heads and entrails of the sardines following the directions on page 445. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Season with salt and lightly flour. Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) of the oil in a medium, deep frying pan or sauté pan over a medium heat. Working in batches, fry the sardines until the skin is golden, about 2 minutes. Without breaking the skin, turn them over with a wide spatula and cook on the other side until golden, 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a medium rectangular earthenware, ceramic or glass dish, arranging the sardines side by side in the dish, alternating head-tail direction so that they fit snugly together. Put the remaining 300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) of the oil, the garlic, onion, bay leaves, parsley and peppercorns into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook until the onion and garlic have softened but not turned brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, leave to cool for a few minutes, then carefully stir in the vinegar and 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water. Return the saucepan to the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir the marinade and pour over the sardines. If the marinade does not cover the fish, top up with more olive oil. Leave to cool to room temperature. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and refrigerate for at least 1 day to fully absorb the flavours. Remove the sardines from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving. Serve at room temperature with some of the marinade drizzled over the top of the sardines. Store in the refrigerator and use within 4 days. ← Sardines in Escabeche335 Stuffed Sardine Pairs MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes SERVES: 4–6 Known as sardine chrak (chrak means ‘coupled’ or ‘partnered’), these stuffed sardine pairs are a favourite street food. Atlantic sardines are often slightly larger than Mediterranean ones and may require a touch more marinade. 24 fresh whole sardines 4 cloves of garlic, minced 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 1 generous pinch cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice neutral oil, for frying plain (all-purpose) flour, for dredging salt and pepper 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve Butterfly open the sardines. To do this, remove the heads and entrails. Using a thumbnail or knife, open along the stomach. Loosen the central spine by pressing around it with your thumb. Clip the spine towards the tail with kitchen scissors, then take the end and pull up the spine. Remove any remaining bones, then spread open into a single, butterflied fillet. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining fish. Add the garlic, parsley, coriander (cilantro), cumin, paprika and cayenne pepper to a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with the olive oil and lemon juice. Blend well. Lay half of the sardines, skin-side down, on a large plate. Spread about 1 teaspoon of the paste on each, then place a second sardine on top, skin-side up, and gently press together. Heat at least 1.5 cm/2⁄3 inch of neutral oil in a large, deep frying pan over a medium heat until the surface shimmers. Line a plate with paper towels. Put enough flour for coating into a wide bowl and season with salt. Working in batches, fry the sardines. Holding a pair together, dust with the flour and carefully set in the hot oil with tongs. Fry until golden and cooked through, 1–2 minutes, turning as needed. Using tongs, transfer to the paper towels to drain. Fry the remaining fish. Serve immediately with the lemon wedges. Sardines in Escabeche ALGERIA PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 20 minutes SERVES: 4 Skabitch is an herby, oil-and-vinegar marinade found in various places around the Mediterranean, including Algeria. 16 fresh whole sardines (about 500 g/1 lb 2 oz total) plain (all-purpose) flour, for dusting 360 ml/12 fl oz (1½ cups) olive oil, plus extra if needed 6 cloves of garlic, lightly crushed in the skin 1 small red onion, cut crosswise into thin slices 2 bay leaves 1 heaped tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 120 ml/4 fl oz (½ cup) white vinegar salt Scale, clean and remove the heads and entrails of the sardines following the directions on page 445. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Season with salt and lightly flour. Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) of the oil in a medium, deep frying pan or sauté pan over a medium heat. Working in batches, fry the sardines until the skin is golden, about 2 minutes. Without breaking the skin, turn them over with a wide spatula and cook on the other side until golden, 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a medium rectangular earthenware, ceramic or glass dish, arranging the sardines side by side in the dish, alternating head-tail direction so that they fit snugly together. Put the remaining 300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) of the oil, the garlic, onion, bay leaves, parsley and peppercorns into a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook until the onion and garlic have softened but not turned brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, leave to cool for a few minutes, then carefully stir in the vinegar and 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water. Return the saucepan to the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir the marinade and pour over the sardines. If the marinade does not cover the fish, top up with more olive oil. Leave to cool to room temperature. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and refrigerate for at least 1 day to fully absorb the flavours. Remove the sardines from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving. Serve at room temperature with some of the marinade drizzled over the top of the sardines. Store in the refrigerator and use within 4 days. ← Sardines in Escabeche365 Pan-cooked Semolina Date Bars ALGERIA PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes, plus resting time COOKING TIME: 20 minutes MAKES: 16–20 cookies Bradj are an Algerian favourite to serve with coffee and tea, and to offer to guests during Eid al-Fitr visits. Made with medium semolina, many now add a spoonful of plain (all-purpose) flour to give the dough a suppleness. As for the date paste, it can be seasoned in various ways. Many cooks knead some butter and ground cinnamon, perhaps orange blossom water, occasionally a pinch of ground cloves and sesame seeds into the paste. 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (3 cups) medium semolina 1 heaped tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour 150 g/5 oz butter, melted and cooled 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt For the date paste: 250 g/9 oz date paste 1 tablespoon butter or neutral oil ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon generous pinch of ground cloves Put the semolina into a wide bowl and mix in the flour, then season with salt. Pour over the cooled melted butter and oil and work in well with your fingers. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to rest for 30 minutes to fully absorb. MEANWHILE, PREPARE THE DATE PASTE: If the date paste is stiff, put it into a steamer basket over a pot of water and steam over a low heat for a few minutes. Put the paste, butter, cinnamon and cloves onto a clean work counter and knead to a smooth, pliable paste. Set aside. Sprinkle 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) of tepid water over the dough and work in with your fingers. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to rest for 15 minutes at room temperature. Sprinkle over 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water. Without kneading, work to a form a smooth, compact and sandy-textured dough. Divide into 2 equal-size balls. Press or roll out one of the balls on baking (parchment) paper or cling film to about 1 cm/½ inch thick. Set aside. On another sheet of baking paper or cling film, roll out the remaining ball to the same size and thickness. Flatten the date paste and roll out to the same size as the other pieces. Lay on top of the flattened piece of dough, then gently lay the reserved piece of dough on top. Press out with a rolling pin to 2 cm/¾ inch thick. Using a pastry cutter or knife, cut into diamond or square shapes, 5–7.5 cm/2–3 inches in size. You should have 16–20 cookies in total. Decorate the top with patterns as desired by gently pressing the knife against the top. Heat a medium ungreased frying pan over a medium heat. With the help of a spatula, lift pieces, one at a time, and set in the pan. Brown on each side for about 5 minutes, carefully turning only once. Store in airtight containers. They are best eaten within 2 weeks. No-bake Date and Semolina Cookies ALGERIA, TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes MAKES: 20 cookies In Algeria, these no-bake treats are called rfiss tounsi, which basically means ‘Tunisian cookies’. In El Kef, in western Tunisia, an hour drive from the Algerian border, they go by the same name, although some places in Tunisia call them rfiss tmer (tmer means ‘date’). Many cooks use equal amounts of semolina and dates and about half the amount of butter, plus a touch of honey if needed. This recipe calls for soft dates that can easily be mashed into a paste. If using less-soft dates, stone (pit) and steam until soft. 200 g/7 oz soft dates, such as deglet nour, medjool or ghars, or date paste 200 g/7 oz (1¼ cups) medium semolina 75 g/2¾ oz (5 tablespoons) salted butter, softened 1 teaspoon honey, optional Wipe the dates with paper towels and stone (pit). Finely chop, then mash the dates into a smooth paste with the back of a fork or potato masher. Put the semolina into a medium, ungreased frying pan and dry-toast over a low heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until a rich, golden colour, about 10 minutes. Do not scorch. Transfer to a large bowl, add the date paste, butter and honey (if using) and knead to a smooth paste. Form the paste into a single ball and press out on a chopping (cutting) board until it is 1.5 cm/2⁄3 inch thick. Cut into rectangular pieces about 3 × 5 cm/1¼ x 2 inches. You should have about 20 cookies in total. Leave to cool to room temperature before serving. Store in airtight containers. They are best eaten within 2 weeks. ← Pan-cooked Semolina Date Bars365 Pan-cooked Semolina Date Bars ALGERIA PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes, plus resting time COOKING TIME: 20 minutes MAKES: 16–20 cookies Bradj are an Algerian favourite to serve with coffee and tea, and to offer to guests during Eid al-Fitr visits. Made with medium semolina, many now add a spoonful of plain (all-purpose) flour to give the dough a suppleness. As for the date paste, it can be seasoned in various ways. Many cooks knead some butter and ground cinnamon, perhaps orange blossom water, occasionally a pinch of ground cloves and sesame seeds into the paste. 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (3 cups) medium semolina 1 heaped tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour 150 g/5 oz butter, melted and cooled 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt For the date paste: 250 g/9 oz date paste 1 tablespoon butter or neutral oil ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon generous pinch of ground cloves Put the semolina into a wide bowl and mix in the flour, then season with salt. Pour over the cooled melted butter and oil and work in well with your fingers. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to rest for 30 minutes to fully absorb. MEANWHILE, PREPARE THE DATE PASTE: If the date paste is stiff, put it into a steamer basket over a pot of water and steam over a low heat for a few minutes. Put the paste, butter, cinnamon and cloves onto a clean work counter and knead to a smooth, pliable paste. Set aside. Sprinkle 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) of tepid water over the dough and work in with your fingers. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to rest for 15 minutes at room temperature. Sprinkle over 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water. Without kneading, work to a form a smooth, compact and sandy-textured dough. Divide into 2 equal-size balls. Press or roll out one of the balls on baking (parchment) paper or cling film to about 1 cm/½ inch thick. Set aside. On another sheet of baking paper or cling film, roll out the remaining ball to the same size and thickness. Flatten the date paste and roll out to the same size as the other pieces. Lay on top of the flattened piece of dough, then gently lay the reserved piece of dough on top. Press out with a rolling pin to 2 cm/¾ inch thick. Using a pastry cutter or knife, cut into diamond or square shapes, 5–7.5 cm/2–3 inches in size. You should have 16–20 cookies in total. Decorate the top with patterns as desired by gently pressing the knife against the top. Heat a medium ungreased frying pan over a medium heat. With the help of a spatula, lift pieces, one at a time, and set in the pan. Brown on each side for about 5 minutes, carefully turning only once. Store in airtight containers. They are best eaten within 2 weeks. No-bake Date and Semolina Cookies ALGERIA, TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 10 minutes MAKES: 20 cookies In Algeria, these no-bake treats are called rfiss tounsi, which basically means ‘Tunisian cookies’. In El Kef, in western Tunisia, an hour drive from the Algerian border, they go by the same name, although some places in Tunisia call them rfiss tmer (tmer means ‘date’). Many cooks use equal amounts of semolina and dates and about half the amount of butter, plus a touch of honey if needed. This recipe calls for soft dates that can easily be mashed into a paste. If using less-soft dates, stone (pit) and steam until soft. 200 g/7 oz soft dates, such as deglet nour, medjool or ghars, or date paste 200 g/7 oz (1¼ cups) medium semolina 75 g/2¾ oz (5 tablespoons) salted butter, softened 1 teaspoon honey, optional Wipe the dates with paper towels and stone (pit). Finely chop, then mash the dates into a smooth paste with the back of a fork or potato masher. Put the semolina into a medium, ungreased frying pan and dry-toast over a low heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until a rich, golden colour, about 10 minutes. Do not scorch. Transfer to a large bowl, add the date paste, butter and honey (if using) and knead to a smooth paste. Form the paste into a single ball and press out on a chopping (cutting) board until it is 1.5 cm/2⁄3 inch thick. Cut into rectangular pieces about 3 × 5 cm/1¼ x 2 inches. You should have about 20 cookies in total. Leave to cool to room temperature before serving. Store in airtight containers. They are best eaten within 2 weeks. ← Pan-cooked Semolina Date BarsAbout the Author Jeff Koehler, winner of a James Beard award, International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) awards and Gourmand World Cookbook prizes, is an American writer and cook who lives in Spain. For the past two decades he has traveled widely in North Africa. He is the author of seven critically acclaimed books, and his writing and recipes have appeared in the Washington Post, Saveur , NPR, Afar and other media outlets. Phaidon Press Limited 2 Cooperage Yard Stratford London E15 2UR Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10012 © 2021 Phaidon Press Limited Text © Jeff Koehler phaidon.com Key Sales Points ◆ 445 delicious and authentic North African dishes that can easily be recreated at home. ◆ Irresistible recipes and beautiful photography bring the region to life, from the Atlantic and Mediterranean coast in the west and north, across farmland, orchards, plateaus carpeted in wheat, and mountain peaks to the great Sahara in the south and east. ◆ Essays throughout the book introduce key ingredients and cultural traditions. ◆ Jeff Koehler’s compelling introduction provides a brief history of North Africa and a celebration of food culture in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya. ◆ Phaidon’s successful regional bible category is a proven success model (with The Nordic Cookbook and The Latin American Cookbook ) and the books are staples in kitchens worldwide. 366 366 Sweet Constantine Brioche ALGERIA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus rising time COOKING TIME: 15 minutes MAKES: ABOUT 12 buns Known as chrik or brioche constantinoise after the Algerian coastal city of Constantine where they are popular, these breads, with less butter, are not quite as rich as classic French brioche. 2 large eggs 80 g/3 oz (6 tablespoons) sugar 100 g/3½ oz (7 tablespoons) butter, melted, or olive oil 200 ml/7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) warm milk 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon orange blossom water 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (31⁄3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tablespoon instant yeast or active-dry yeast granules 1 egg yolk sesame seeds, to decorate Put the eggs and sugar into a large bowl and beat together, then add the butter and beat until combined. Stir in the milk, salt and orange blossom water. Sift in the flour, add the yeast and patiently knead for 10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough that does not stick to the fingers and peels away from the sides of the bowl. Cover with a dish towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour, or until it has doubled in size. Line 2 baking sheets with baking (parchment) paper. Put the egg yolk and a couple of drops of water into a bowl and beat together. Gently deflate the dough by pressing it down, then put it onto a lightly floured work counter. Cut the dough into pieces about the size of an egg, then gently roll into round balls and place on the prepared baking sheets. Gently press down on the top of each to slightly flatten. Brush with the egg yolk and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Leave to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/ Gas Mark 4. Put the buns into the hot oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on wire racks. The buns are best eaten when warm. Sweet Buns with Aniseed and Sesame Seeds MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus rising time COOKING TIME: 15 minutes MAKES: about 10 generous buns This Moroccan krachel is similar to Algerian chrik (see left) but with aniseed and sesame seeds in the dough. They are delicious for breakfast hot out of the oven with butter and jam. 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (31⁄3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar 1 tablespoon instant yeast or active-dry yeast granules ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, plus extra to decorate 1 tablespoon aniseed 100 ml/3½ fl oz (generous 1⁄3 cup) cup milk, warmed 100 ml/3½ fl oz (generous 1⁄3 cup) vegetable oil 1 tablespoon orange blossom water 2 large eggs 1 egg yolk sesame seeds, to decorate Sift the flour into a large bowl, add the sugar, yeast, salt, sesame seeds and aniseed and mix together with your fingers. Add the milk, oil, orange blossom water and the 2 eggs and work to a slightly sticky dough. Add a touch of water or more flour as needed. Transfer to a lightly floured work counter and patiently knead for 10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough that does not stick to the fingers and peels away from the sides of the bowl. Cover with a clean dish towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1–2 hours until it has doubled in size. Line 2 baking sheets with baking (parchment) paper. Punch down to deflate the dough, then roll into a log on a lightly floured work counter and cut into 10 or so pieces, about 100 g/3½ oz each. Gently roll under the palm of your hand into round balls. Gently flatten and arrange on the prepared baking sheets. Cover with a dish towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/Gas Mark 4. Put the egg yolk and a couple of drops of water into a bowl and beat together. Gently brush the buns with the egg yolk and sprinkle the tops with sesame seeds. Put the buns into the hot oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on wire racks. The buns are best eaten hot. Sweet Constantine Brioche Berber Winter Vegetable Tagine MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour 10 minutes SERVES: 2 In Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains, this vegetable tagine is called tatajine douze in the Berber language. Douze means that it is something to be eaten with bread, a fitting name for this dish. The quince here is treated as a vegetable rather than a fruit, and it brings a sweet, aromatic note to the tagine. Most families use whatever is in season or in the vegetable larder, with the longer-cooking ones on the bottom layer. 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 small red onions, cut crosswise into slices 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric ¼ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon sweet paprika 4 carrots, halved crosswise then halved lengthwise 2 turnips, peeled and quartered lengthwise 1 small quince, peeled, cored and cut lengthwise into 8 wedges 1 fennel bulb, quartered lengthwise 1 small aubergine (eggplant), cut crosswise into 1-cm/½-inch circles 225 g/8 oz cauliflower, cut into small florets 1 tomato, peeled (see page 000) and quartered 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) ¼ teaspoon ground cumin salt and pepper bread, to serve Add the oil, onions, garlic, turmeric, ginger and paprika to a medium tagine (see page 000) and moisten with 4 tablespoons water. Cover the tagine with the lid and cook over a medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat. Spread the onions evenly across the bottom of the tagine. Arrange the carrots and turnips like spokes on top of the onions, then build a pyramid with the vegetables by stacking the quince, fennel, aubergine (eggplant), cauliflower and finally the tomato. Sprinkle over the parsley, coriander (cilantro) and cumin, then season with salt and pepper. Pour 120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water around the edge, cover the tagine, and cook over low heat until all of the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Add a touch of water if needed, or remove the lid to reduce the sauce if watery. Serve from the tagine with bread. Shakshuka LIBYA PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 50 minutes SERVES: 4 The roots of the widely popular shakshuka are hotly contested. Possibly originating in Tripoli, it was brought by Libyan (and Tunisian) Jews in the mid-twentieth century to Israel, where it has become widespread, even iconic. Shakshuka is one-pot comfort food and a classic breakfast dish in Libya and beyond. Some versions include gueddid (seasoned, salted and air-dried lamb, see page 000). If adding to this recipe, be frugal with the salt and soak the gueddid beforehand and add at the first step. In Tunisia, it is popular to prepare with merguez sausages (page 000). Serve with plenty of bread. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 red or yellow onion, chopped 2 chillies (chiles), seeded and diced 3 cloves of garlic, minced 4 ripe tomatoes, diced 2 tablespoon double concentrated tomato purée (paste) ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground cumin cayenne pepper, to taste 4 large eggs salt and pepper bread, to serve Heat the oil in a large frying pan or sauté pan over a medium-high heat, add the onion and chillies (chiles), and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the garlic and cook for about 1 minute, or until aromatic. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée (paste) and 4 tablespoons water, then season with salt and pepper and cook for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the turmeric, cumin and cayenne pepper and add 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) water. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and simmer until the saucy, 20–30 minutes. Stir in a touch more water if needed. Make 4 spaces in the sauce. Without breaking the yolks, crack the eggs directly into the pan. Cover with a lid and cook the eggs to the desired level of yolk runniness, 5–10 minutes. Serve hot directly from the pan with bread. Shakshuka 366 Potato and Chicken Frittata LIBYA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour SERVE: 6–8 In Libya, frittata-like baked egg dishes tend to be similar to their Tunisian counterparts (tajine, see page 000), though usually they are thinner, and while they also include turmeric and they often have different spicing. In this recipe, the chicken is cooked with rosemary and thyme. 3 white potatoes (about 500 g/1 lb 2 oz), peeled and cut into 1-cm/½-inch cubes 350 g/12 oz skinless, boneless chicken breasts ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon dried rosemary 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling 1 red or yellow onion, finely chopped 8 large eggs ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 100 g/3½ oz (1 cup) shredded white cheese, such as Emmental or Gruyère 2 heaped tablespoons flat-leaf parsley leaves salt and pepper lemon wedges, to serve Put the potatoes into a large pot or saucepan of lightly salted water and boil until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain in a colander. Meanwhile, season the chicken with the thyme, rosemary and salt and set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small-medium frying pan over a medium heat, add the onion and cook for about 8 minutes until pale and soft. Spoon into a bowl and leave to cool. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the pan, add the chicken and cook until cooked through, 7–12 minutes depending on the thickness. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/ Gas Mark 4. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, coarsely chop into pieces no larger than 1 cm/½ inch. Put the eggs and turmeric into a large bowl, and using a fork, beat together. Season with salt and pepper, then fold the chicken, onion, potatoes, cheese and parsley into the eggs. Oil a 23 × 23-cm-/9 × 9-inch-square baking pan, silicone mould or baking dish and spoon in the mixture. Jiggle to evenly settle. It should not be more than 2 cm/¾ inch deep. Bake in the oven until cooked through and a knife poked into the centre comes out dry, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes, then unmould with a spatula or knife. Transfer to a large serving plate and cut into pieces. Serve with lemon wedges. Aubergine and Potato Frittata TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes SERVES: 6–8 Another one of Tunisia’s popular frittata-like egg tajine (see page 000), this includes aubergine (eggplant) and potatoes. After frying the aubergine, be sure to drain well on paper towels to keep the dish less oily. Serve with a variety of salads. 2 white potatoes (about 700 g/1 lb/8½ oz), peeled and cut into 1.5-cm/2⁄3-inch cubes 6 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling 2 aubergines (eggplant), cut into 1.5-cm/²⁄3-inch cubes 1 large red or yellow onion, finely chopped 10 large eggs ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 200 g/7 oz (2 cups) shredded white cheese, such as Emmental or Gruyère 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley salt and pepper lemon wedges, to serve Preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/Gas Mark 4. Put the potatoes into a large pot or saucepan of lightly salted water and boil until just tender, about 12 minutes. Drain in a colander. Heat the oil in a large frying pan or sauté pan over a high heat, add the aubergines (eggplant) and fry until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels. Add the onion to the pan, reduce the heat to medium and cook until tender and pale, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Put the eggs and turmeric into a large bowl and, using a fork, beat together. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the cheese and parsley. Fold the aubergine, potatoes and onion into the mixture. Oil a 20-cm-/8-inch-round cake pan, silicone mould or deep baking dish and spoon in the mixture. Bake in the oven until cooked through and a knife poked into the centre comes out dry, about 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes before unmoulding with a spatula or knife. Transfer to a large serving plate and cut into wedges. Serve with lemon wedges. Potato and Chicken Frittata 366 Seven Vegetable Couscous MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes, plus soaking time COOKING TIME: 1 hour 30 minutes SERVES: 6–8 Many in Morocco would call this couscous with seven vegetables the country’s national dish. This is especially true in urban areas, where a wide choice of vegetables is always available, or on the fertile plains in the west that are well-known for their agriculture. The choice of vegetables varies throughout the season, from fresh broad (fava) beans and artichokes in spring to fennel in winter and pumpkin or squash in autumn. While the number seven is auspicious throughout Islam, couscous aux sept légumes often has – season allowing – more than seven different types of vegetables (as in this recipe). If using canned chickpeas (garbanzo beans) rather than dried ones, rinse and add with the pumpkin and courgette (zucchini). 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) 750 g/12⁄3 lb (4½ cups) medium couscous 500 g/1 lb 2 oz bone-in lamb leg, shoulder or neck, or beef shanks, cut into 6–8 pieces 2 red or yellow onions, quartered 1 tablespoon sweet paprika pinch of saffron threads, crumbled 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 carrots, halved crosswise and lengthwise 2 turnips, peeled and halved lengthwise 4 ripe tomatoes, quartered 12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 12 sprigs coriander (cilantro) 2 wedges green cabbage (about 250 g/9 oz total) 2 white potatoes, peeled and quartered lengthwise 400 g/14 oz pumpkin or butternut squash, cut into 7.5 × 5-cm/3 × 2-inch pieces 2 courgettes (zucchini), scrubbed but not peeled, halved lengthwise and then crosswise 2 long sweet green peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces salt and pepper Put the dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) into a large bowl, pour in abundant water to cover and leave to soak overnight. The next day, drain and rinse. If steaming the couscous in a couscoussier over the stew, see the directions on page 000, adding ingredients to the stew before and between steamings as needed. For other methods of preparing couscous, see pages 000–pages 000. For details on cooking with a couscoussier, including alternatives, see page 000. For quick-cooking couscous, prepare it following the directions on page 000, warming it until steaming in the oven before serving. Put the lamb, onions, paprika and saffron into the bottom of a large couscoussier. Season with salt and pepper and add the oil. Swirl to coat, then cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add 1.5 litres (50 fl oz/ generous 6 cups) hot water and bring to the boil. Add the chickpeas, carrots, turnips and tomatoes. Fold the parsley and coriander (cilantro) sprigs, tie into a tight bundle with kitchen string and add. Cook for 30 minutes. (If there is no steaming basket on top, loosely cover the pot.) Add the cabbage and cook for 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, squash, courgettes (zucchini) and peppers and cook for a final 30 minutes. Remove and discard the parsley and coriander, then carefully transfer the vegetables and meat to a large platter with a slotted spoon. To serve, warm the couscous until steaming in the oven if needed. Fluff, add the butter and toss the couscous until coated. Either on a large round serving platter or in individual bowls, gently mound the couscous and make a well in the centre. Place the meat in the well surrounded by vegetables. Scatter chickpeas around the edges and ladle over some broth. Serve with the remaining broth in a bowl to add as desired and, if needed, the remaining vegetables on the side. Seven Vegetable Couscous 366 Lamb Kebabs with Kidneys TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 10 minutes SERVES: 4 While these skewers of lamb and kidney can be cooked in a frying pan, grilling them over charcoal is preferred. Interspersing pieces of fresh pepper makes a nice addition. 250 g/9 oz lamb kidneys 5 tablespoons olive oil juice of 1 lemon 1 yellow onion, grated generous pinch of dried oregano generous pinch of cayenne pepper 800 g/1¾ lb boneless leg of lamb, cut into 2-cm/¾-inch cubes ½ red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces ½ green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces ½ yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces ½ large sweet onion, cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces salt and pepper Remove the silvery outer membrane of the kidneys and trim any white fat. Cut in half and snip out the white core. Rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Put the oil, lemon juice, grated onion, oregano and cayenne pepper into a large bowl and mix together. Put the kidneys and lamb cubes into the marinade, turn to coat, cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the charcoal grill or barbecue. If using wooden skewers, put them into a large bowl of water and leave to soak for 30 minutes to prevent them burning during cooking. Thread the skewers with 4–6 pieces of lamb and 1–2 pieces of kidney interspersed by pieces of pepper and onion. The pieces should be touching but not packed tightly together. Season with salt and pepper. Once the embers die down and turn white, cook the skewers, turning them from time to time, until the meat is done, about 10 minutes. Serve hot. Veal Liver in Chermoula ALGERIA, MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 15 minutes SERVES: 4 While kebda mchermla is delicious warm, you can also let this liver dish cool and then refrigerate to serve it as a chilled starter. Be mindful to not overcook the liver, which will toughen if left too long in the pan. In Algeria, it is common to dash it with vinegar just before removing from the heat. It is best when served with homemade Frites (fries, page 000). 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or white vinegar ½ preserved lemon, seeded and cut into thin strips 2 cloves of garlic, minced 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 500 g/1 lb 2 oz veal liver, trimmed and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch cubes salt 12 red or purple olives, to garnish Put the oil, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon water, preserved lemon, garlic, parsley, coriander (cilantro), cumin and paprika into a large bowl and mix together. Season with salt, add the liver and turn to coat. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Add the liver and all of the marinade along with 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water to a large frying pan or sauté pan and cook over a medium-low heat until the liver is cooked through and the sauce reduced, 12–15 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with the olives and serve. Lamb Kebabs with Kidneys 366 Prawns Tagine in Spicy Pil-pil Sauce MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes COOKING TIME: 25 minutes SERVES: 4 This spicy tagine is a popular way to eat prawns (shrimp) in Morocco, especially in the north. The tomato sauce has plenty of garlic and hot cayenne pepper. Home cooks usually prepare using whole peeled prawns. The tails are often left on larger prawns. 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves of garlic, minced 5 ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise and grated, peel discarded (see page 000) 2 heaped tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) 1 teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste 500 g/1 lb 2 oz peeled raw prawns (shrimp), tail left on if desired salt and pepper lemon wedges, to serve Add the oil, garlic and tomatoes to a tagine (see page 000), heavy frying pan or sauté pan and cook, uncovered, over a medium heat until the tomatoes are pulpy and a deeper red, about 15 minutes. Stir in the coriander (cilantro), paprika, cumin and cayenne pepper, then season with salt and pepper. Add the prawns (shrimp) and turn to coat with the sauce. Cover the tagine with a lid and cook until the prawns are done, about 10 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. Tagine of Mussels in Tomato Sauce MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4 This mussel tagine is especially popular in the far north and far south of Morocco, where the Spanish influence runs stronger. It uses a classic Spanish tomato sofrito but is distinctively Morocco with cumin. Serve it with plenty of bread. Today, some cooks serve it over pasta or boiled white rice. 1.5 kg/3¼ lb large live mussels, rinsed 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 long sweet green pepper or ½ green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped 2 large cloves of garlic, minced 8 ripe medium–small tomatoes (about 1 kg/2¼ lb), halved crosswise and grated, peel discarded (see page 000) 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to garnish salt and pepper bread, to serve Trim and debeard the mussels, then scrape the outside of the shell with a paring knife if needed. Rinse under cold running water. Bring 120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water to the boil in a large pot or saucepan over a high heat. Add the mussels, cover with a lid and steam for 3–5 minutes until the mussels have opened, shaking the pot from time to time. Drain in a colander, reserving the liquid. Strain the liquid through a sieve and set aside. Remove and discard any mussels that did not open. Once cool enough to handle, shuck the mussels and discard the shells. Trim the beards with scissors. Heat the oil in a large tagine (see page 000), sauté pan or frying pan over a medium heat, add the green pepper and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, then add the tomatoes, bay leaf, paprika and cumin. Season with salt and pepper and cook until darker and reduced, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add a couple of tablespoons of the reserved liquid from the mussels to keep it moist. Add the mussels, parsley and 2–3 tablespoons of the reserved mussel liquid, then cover with a lid and cook for 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve from the tagine with bread. Prawns Tagine in Spicy Pil-pil Sauce 366 Milk Pudding with Steamed Dried Apricots and Chopped Almonds ALGERIA, LIBYA, TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes, plus chilling time COOKING TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4 A classic milky pudding thickened with cornflour (cornstarch), palouza has a freshness to it that makes it a favourite on Ramadan evenings. This version is aromatized with orange blossom water or rose water and decorated with dried apricots softened by steaming. Allow time for the pudding to fully chill before serving. 4 tablespoons cornflour (cornstarch) 1 litre (34 fl oz/4¼ cups) cold full-fat (whole) milk 4–6 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon orange blossom water or rose water 6 dried apricots chopped almonds, to decorate Put the cornflour (cornstarch) and milk into a large saucepan and stir to dissolve, then add the sugar and cook over a low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until thickened, about 20 minutes. It should be light and velvety and coat the back of the spoon. Stir in the orange blossom water, then pour into the ramekins. Leave to cool, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours until well chilled. Bring a medium steamer pot or couscoussier to the boil with about 7.5 cm/3 inches water, put the apricots into the steamer basket, snugly cover with a lid and steam until soft, 6–8 minutes. Remove from the heat and once cool enough to handle, chop into small pieces. Before serving, sprinkle the apricots and almonds over the top of the pudding. Sorghum Pudding with Hazelnuts and Sesame Seeds TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 6–8 Bouza is a popular dessert made from gluten-free sorghum flour (droo) and ground nuts. You can make it with either hazelnuts or sesame seeds, though the classic version uses both. Grind the nuts very well. It can be served chilled as a cream to eat with a spoon or warm as a thick drink. This is the loose, almost liquidy version served in glasses. It is especially popular during Ramadan. 125 g/4¼ oz (¾ cup) sorghum flour 100 g/3½ oz (2⁄3 cup) hazelnuts 75 g/2¾ oz (½ cup) toasted sesame seeds 500 ml/18 fl oz (2 cups) milk 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar rose water or geranium flower water, to dash, optional ground pistachio, pistachios and/or almonds, to decorate Put the sorghum flour and 750 ml (25 fl oz/3 cups) water into a large bowl and whisk thoroughly until smooth and combined. Set aside. Put the hazelnuts into a medium ungreased frying pan and dry-toast over a low heat until warm and aromatic, 3–4 minutes. Rub off the skins if needed with your fingers or a dish towel and leave to cool. Put the hazelnuts into a food processor and grind into a fine, oily paste, then spoon into a large bowl. Put the sesame seeds into the food processor and grind to a fine and oily paste, then spoon into the bowl. Add 4–5 tablespoons water and blend with a whisk. Add the milk, sugar, sorghum mixture and the hazelnut-sesame seed mixture to a large saucepan and bring to a gentle boil over a medium heat, stirring constantly, about 20 minutes. It should be loose and semi-liquidy. Dash with rose water (if using). Pour into glasses and top with ground nuts. Serve warm or leave to cool. Milk Pudding with Steamed Dried Apricots and Chopped Almonds 366 366 Watermelon Lemonade MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus chilling time SERVES: 4; MAKES: 1 litre/34 fl oz (4¼ cups) Among the array of juices, this combination of watermelon and lemonade is particularly lovely and offers the essence of summer. Watermelon’s sweet freshness perfectly complements the tartness of the lemons. 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar 120 ml/4 fl oz (½ cup) fresh lemon juice 600 g/1 lb 5 oz watermelon flesh, seeded 1 sprig mint leaves ½ ripe lemon, preferably unwaxed or organic, thinly sliced ice cubes, to serve Put the sugar and 100 ml (3½ fl oz/1⁄3 cup) hot water into a large bowl and stir to dissolve. Stir in the lemon juice and set aside. Put the watermelon into a blender and purée. Strain through a sieve into a large jug (pitcher). Add the sweetened lemon juice. Thin with about 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) cold water or as desired. Add the mint leaves and lemon slices. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and chill in the refrigerator before serving. Serve in glasses over ice cubes. Lemonade with Fresh Mint TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes, plus chilling time SERVES: 4; MAKES: 1 litre/34 fl oz (4¼ cups) Refreshing, soothingly tart and deeply aromatic, this lovely, emerald coloured citronade à la menthe is Tunisia’s twist on fresh lemonade served across the Mediterranean. The southern part of the Cap Bon peninsula grows most of the country’s citruses, with the fields around beachside Hammamet – a traditional walled town overlooking a fifteenth-century kasbah (citadel) – the centre of lemon production. 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar 6–8 ripe lemons 1 handful mint leaves, plus 4 sprigs to garnish ice cubes, to serve Put the sugar and 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) hot water into a large bowl and stir to dissolve. Pour into a blender, scraping any remaining sugar from the bowl with a spatula. Juice the lemons. There should be about 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) of juice. Pour into the blender. Add the mint leaves and 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) cold water and blend well using quick pulses. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a large jug (pitcher), pressing out all the liquid with the back of a spoon. Discard the solids. Dilute the juice with 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) cold water or as desired. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and chill until ready to serve. Stir and pour into ice cube-filled glasses. Garnish with sprigs of mint and serve. Classic Lemonade ALGERIA, MOROCCO, TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes, plus macerating and chilling time SERVES: 4; MAKES: 1 litre/34 fl oz (4¼ cups) This bold citronade uses the juice of the lemon and the zest, where the essence of the fruit resides. Some Moroccans like to add a dash of orange blossom water for fragrance. 4 ripe lemons, preferably unwaxed or organic 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar, plus extra as needed ice cubes, to serve Zest the lemon, removing only the yellow part. Put it into a large bowl, cover with the sugar, blend well and leave to macerate for 30 minutes. Juice the lemons and add to the bowl. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a large jug (pitcher). Return the solids to the bowl, pour in 750 ml (25 fl oz/3 cups) water, stir and strain, pressing out all the liquid with the back of a spoon. Discard the solids. Taste for sweetness and stir in more sugar if needed. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and chill until ready to serve. Serve over ice cubes. Lemonade with Fresh Mint About the Author Jeff Koehler, winner of a James Beard award, International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) awards and Gourmand World Cookbook prizes, is an American writer and cook who lives in Spain. For the past two decades he has traveled widely in North Africa. He is the author of seven critically acclaimed books, and his writing and recipes have appeared in the Washington Post, Saveur , NPR, Afar and other media outlets. Phaidon Press Limited 2 Cooperage Yard Stratford London E15 2UR Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10012 © 2021 Phaidon Press Limited Text © Jeff Koehler phaidon.com Key Sales Points ◆ 445 delicious and authentic North African dishes that can easily be recreated at home. ◆ Irresistible recipes and beautiful photography bring the region to life, from the Atlantic and Mediterranean coast in the west and north, across farmland, orchards, plateaus carpeted in wheat, and mountain peaks to the great Sahara in the south and east. ◆ Essays throughout the book introduce key ingredients and cultural traditions. ◆ Jeff Koehler’s compelling introduction provides a brief history of North Africa and a celebration of food culture in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya. ◆ Phaidon’s successful regional bible category is a proven success model (with The Nordic Cookbook and The Latin American Cookbook ) and the books are staples in kitchens worldwide. 366 366 Sweet Constantine Brioche ALGERIA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus rising time COOKING TIME: 15 minutes MAKES: ABOUT 12 buns Known as chrik or brioche constantinoise after the Algerian coastal city of Constantine where they are popular, these breads, with less butter, are not quite as rich as classic French brioche. 2 large eggs 80 g/3 oz (6 tablespoons) sugar 100 g/3½ oz (7 tablespoons) butter, melted, or olive oil 200 ml/7 fl oz (generous ¾ cup) warm milk 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon orange blossom water 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (31⁄3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting 1 tablespoon instant yeast or active-dry yeast granules 1 egg yolk sesame seeds, to decorate Put the eggs and sugar into a large bowl and beat together, then add the butter and beat until combined. Stir in the milk, salt and orange blossom water. Sift in the flour, add the yeast and patiently knead for 10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough that does not stick to the fingers and peels away from the sides of the bowl. Cover with a dish towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour, or until it has doubled in size. Line 2 baking sheets with baking (parchment) paper. Put the egg yolk and a couple of drops of water into a bowl and beat together. Gently deflate the dough by pressing it down, then put it onto a lightly floured work counter. Cut the dough into pieces about the size of an egg, then gently roll into round balls and place on the prepared baking sheets. Gently press down on the top of each to slightly flatten. Brush with the egg yolk and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Leave to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/ Gas Mark 4. Put the buns into the hot oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on wire racks. The buns are best eaten when warm. Sweet Buns with Aniseed and Sesame Seeds MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus rising time COOKING TIME: 15 minutes MAKES: about 10 generous buns This Moroccan krachel is similar to Algerian chrik (see left) but with aniseed and sesame seeds in the dough. They are delicious for breakfast hot out of the oven with butter and jam. 500 g/1 lb 2 oz (31⁄3 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for dusting 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar 1 tablespoon instant yeast or active-dry yeast granules ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, plus extra to decorate 1 tablespoon aniseed 100 ml/3½ fl oz (generous 1⁄3 cup) cup milk, warmed 100 ml/3½ fl oz (generous 1⁄3 cup) vegetable oil 1 tablespoon orange blossom water 2 large eggs 1 egg yolk sesame seeds, to decorate Sift the flour into a large bowl, add the sugar, yeast, salt, sesame seeds and aniseed and mix together with your fingers. Add the milk, oil, orange blossom water and the 2 eggs and work to a slightly sticky dough. Add a touch of water or more flour as needed. Transfer to a lightly floured work counter and patiently knead for 10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough that does not stick to the fingers and peels away from the sides of the bowl. Cover with a clean dish towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 1–2 hours until it has doubled in size. Line 2 baking sheets with baking (parchment) paper. Punch down to deflate the dough, then roll into a log on a lightly floured work counter and cut into 10 or so pieces, about 100 g/3½ oz each. Gently roll under the palm of your hand into round balls. Gently flatten and arrange on the prepared baking sheets. Cover with a dish towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/Gas Mark 4. Put the egg yolk and a couple of drops of water into a bowl and beat together. Gently brush the buns with the egg yolk and sprinkle the tops with sesame seeds. Put the buns into the hot oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on wire racks. The buns are best eaten hot. Sweet Constantine Brioche Berber Winter Vegetable Tagine MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour 10 minutes SERVES: 2 In Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains, this vegetable tagine is called tatajine douze in the Berber language. Douze means that it is something to be eaten with bread, a fitting name for this dish. The quince here is treated as a vegetable rather than a fruit, and it brings a sweet, aromatic note to the tagine. Most families use whatever is in season or in the vegetable larder, with the longer-cooking ones on the bottom layer. 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 small red onions, cut crosswise into slices 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric ¼ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon sweet paprika 4 carrots, halved crosswise then halved lengthwise 2 turnips, peeled and quartered lengthwise 1 small quince, peeled, cored and cut lengthwise into 8 wedges 1 fennel bulb, quartered lengthwise 1 small aubergine (eggplant), cut crosswise into 1-cm/½-inch circles 225 g/8 oz cauliflower, cut into small florets 1 tomato, peeled (see page 000) and quartered 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) ¼ teaspoon ground cumin salt and pepper bread, to serve Add the oil, onions, garlic, turmeric, ginger and paprika to a medium tagine (see page 000) and moisten with 4 tablespoons water. Cover the tagine with the lid and cook over a medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat. Spread the onions evenly across the bottom of the tagine. Arrange the carrots and turnips like spokes on top of the onions, then build a pyramid with the vegetables by stacking the quince, fennel, aubergine (eggplant), cauliflower and finally the tomato. Sprinkle over the parsley, coriander (cilantro) and cumin, then season with salt and pepper. Pour 120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water around the edge, cover the tagine, and cook over low heat until all of the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Add a touch of water if needed, or remove the lid to reduce the sauce if watery. Serve from the tagine with bread. Shakshuka LIBYA PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 50 minutes SERVES: 4 The roots of the widely popular shakshuka are hotly contested. Possibly originating in Tripoli, it was brought by Libyan (and Tunisian) Jews in the mid-twentieth century to Israel, where it has become widespread, even iconic. Shakshuka is one-pot comfort food and a classic breakfast dish in Libya and beyond. Some versions include gueddid (seasoned, salted and air-dried lamb, see page 000). If adding to this recipe, be frugal with the salt and soak the gueddid beforehand and add at the first step. In Tunisia, it is popular to prepare with merguez sausages (page 000). Serve with plenty of bread. 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 red or yellow onion, chopped 2 chillies (chiles), seeded and diced 3 cloves of garlic, minced 4 ripe tomatoes, diced 2 tablespoon double concentrated tomato purée (paste) ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground cumin cayenne pepper, to taste 4 large eggs salt and pepper bread, to serve Heat the oil in a large frying pan or sauté pan over a medium-high heat, add the onion and chillies (chiles), and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the garlic and cook for about 1 minute, or until aromatic. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée (paste) and 4 tablespoons water, then season with salt and pepper and cook for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the turmeric, cumin and cayenne pepper and add 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) water. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low and simmer until the saucy, 20–30 minutes. Stir in a touch more water if needed. Make 4 spaces in the sauce. Without breaking the yolks, crack the eggs directly into the pan. Cover with a lid and cook the eggs to the desired level of yolk runniness, 5–10 minutes. Serve hot directly from the pan with bread. Shakshuka 366 Potato and Chicken Frittata LIBYA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour SERVE: 6–8 In Libya, frittata-like baked egg dishes tend to be similar to their Tunisian counterparts (tajine, see page 000), though usually they are thinner, and while they also include turmeric and they often have different spicing. In this recipe, the chicken is cooked with rosemary and thyme. 3 white potatoes (about 500 g/1 lb 2 oz), peeled and cut into 1-cm/½-inch cubes 350 g/12 oz skinless, boneless chicken breasts ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon dried rosemary 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling 1 red or yellow onion, finely chopped 8 large eggs ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 100 g/3½ oz (1 cup) shredded white cheese, such as Emmental or Gruyère 2 heaped tablespoons flat-leaf parsley leaves salt and pepper lemon wedges, to serve Put the potatoes into a large pot or saucepan of lightly salted water and boil until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain in a colander. Meanwhile, season the chicken with the thyme, rosemary and salt and set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a small-medium frying pan over a medium heat, add the onion and cook for about 8 minutes until pale and soft. Spoon into a bowl and leave to cool. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the pan, add the chicken and cook until cooked through, 7–12 minutes depending on the thickness. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/ Gas Mark 4. Once the chicken is cool enough to handle, coarsely chop into pieces no larger than 1 cm/½ inch. Put the eggs and turmeric into a large bowl, and using a fork, beat together. Season with salt and pepper, then fold the chicken, onion, potatoes, cheese and parsley into the eggs. Oil a 23 × 23-cm-/9 × 9-inch-square baking pan, silicone mould or baking dish and spoon in the mixture. Jiggle to evenly settle. It should not be more than 2 cm/¾ inch deep. Bake in the oven until cooked through and a knife poked into the centre comes out dry, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes, then unmould with a spatula or knife. Transfer to a large serving plate and cut into pieces. Serve with lemon wedges. Aubergine and Potato Frittata TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes COOKING TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes SERVES: 6–8 Another one of Tunisia’s popular frittata-like egg tajine (see page 000), this includes aubergine (eggplant) and potatoes. After frying the aubergine, be sure to drain well on paper towels to keep the dish less oily. Serve with a variety of salads. 2 white potatoes (about 700 g/1 lb/8½ oz), peeled and cut into 1.5-cm/2⁄3-inch cubes 6 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling 2 aubergines (eggplant), cut into 1.5-cm/²⁄3-inch cubes 1 large red or yellow onion, finely chopped 10 large eggs ½ teaspoon ground turmeric 200 g/7 oz (2 cups) shredded white cheese, such as Emmental or Gruyère 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley salt and pepper lemon wedges, to serve Preheat the oven to 180 °C/350 °F/Gas Mark 4. Put the potatoes into a large pot or saucepan of lightly salted water and boil until just tender, about 12 minutes. Drain in a colander. Heat the oil in a large frying pan or sauté pan over a high heat, add the aubergines (eggplant) and fry until tender, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels. Add the onion to the pan, reduce the heat to medium and cook until tender and pale, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Put the eggs and turmeric into a large bowl and, using a fork, beat together. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the cheese and parsley. Fold the aubergine, potatoes and onion into the mixture. Oil a 20-cm-/8-inch-round cake pan, silicone mould or deep baking dish and spoon in the mixture. Bake in the oven until cooked through and a knife poked into the centre comes out dry, about 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes before unmoulding with a spatula or knife. Transfer to a large serving plate and cut into wedges. Serve with lemon wedges. Potato and Chicken Frittata 366 Seven Vegetable Couscous MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes, plus soaking time COOKING TIME: 1 hour 30 minutes SERVES: 6–8 Many in Morocco would call this couscous with seven vegetables the country’s national dish. This is especially true in urban areas, where a wide choice of vegetables is always available, or on the fertile plains in the west that are well-known for their agriculture. The choice of vegetables varies throughout the season, from fresh broad (fava) beans and artichokes in spring to fennel in winter and pumpkin or squash in autumn. While the number seven is auspicious throughout Islam, couscous aux sept légumes often has – season allowing – more than seven different types of vegetables (as in this recipe). If using canned chickpeas (garbanzo beans) rather than dried ones, rinse and add with the pumpkin and courgette (zucchini). 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) 750 g/12⁄3 lb (4½ cups) medium couscous 500 g/1 lb 2 oz bone-in lamb leg, shoulder or neck, or beef shanks, cut into 6–8 pieces 2 red or yellow onions, quartered 1 tablespoon sweet paprika pinch of saffron threads, crumbled 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 carrots, halved crosswise and lengthwise 2 turnips, peeled and halved lengthwise 4 ripe tomatoes, quartered 12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 12 sprigs coriander (cilantro) 2 wedges green cabbage (about 250 g/9 oz total) 2 white potatoes, peeled and quartered lengthwise 400 g/14 oz pumpkin or butternut squash, cut into 7.5 × 5-cm/3 × 2-inch pieces 2 courgettes (zucchini), scrubbed but not peeled, halved lengthwise and then crosswise 2 long sweet green peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded 2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces salt and pepper Put the dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans) into a large bowl, pour in abundant water to cover and leave to soak overnight. The next day, drain and rinse. If steaming the couscous in a couscoussier over the stew, see the directions on page 000, adding ingredients to the stew before and between steamings as needed. For other methods of preparing couscous, see pages 000–pages 000. For details on cooking with a couscoussier, including alternatives, see page 000. For quick-cooking couscous, prepare it following the directions on page 000, warming it until steaming in the oven before serving. Put the lamb, onions, paprika and saffron into the bottom of a large couscoussier. Season with salt and pepper and add the oil. Swirl to coat, then cook over a medium heat for 5 minutes. Add 1.5 litres (50 fl oz/ generous 6 cups) hot water and bring to the boil. Add the chickpeas, carrots, turnips and tomatoes. Fold the parsley and coriander (cilantro) sprigs, tie into a tight bundle with kitchen string and add. Cook for 30 minutes. (If there is no steaming basket on top, loosely cover the pot.) Add the cabbage and cook for 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, squash, courgettes (zucchini) and peppers and cook for a final 30 minutes. Remove and discard the parsley and coriander, then carefully transfer the vegetables and meat to a large platter with a slotted spoon. To serve, warm the couscous until steaming in the oven if needed. Fluff, add the butter and toss the couscous until coated. Either on a large round serving platter or in individual bowls, gently mound the couscous and make a well in the centre. Place the meat in the well surrounded by vegetables. Scatter chickpeas around the edges and ladle over some broth. Serve with the remaining broth in a bowl to add as desired and, if needed, the remaining vegetables on the side. Seven Vegetable Couscous 366 Lamb Kebabs with Kidneys TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 10 minutes SERVES: 4 While these skewers of lamb and kidney can be cooked in a frying pan, grilling them over charcoal is preferred. Interspersing pieces of fresh pepper makes a nice addition. 250 g/9 oz lamb kidneys 5 tablespoons olive oil juice of 1 lemon 1 yellow onion, grated generous pinch of dried oregano generous pinch of cayenne pepper 800 g/1¾ lb boneless leg of lamb, cut into 2-cm/¾-inch cubes ½ red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces ½ green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces ½ yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces ½ large sweet onion, cut into 2-cm/¾-inch pieces salt and pepper Remove the silvery outer membrane of the kidneys and trim any white fat. Cut in half and snip out the white core. Rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Put the oil, lemon juice, grated onion, oregano and cayenne pepper into a large bowl and mix together. Put the kidneys and lamb cubes into the marinade, turn to coat, cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the charcoal grill or barbecue. If using wooden skewers, put them into a large bowl of water and leave to soak for 30 minutes to prevent them burning during cooking. Thread the skewers with 4–6 pieces of lamb and 1–2 pieces of kidney interspersed by pieces of pepper and onion. The pieces should be touching but not packed tightly together. Season with salt and pepper. Once the embers die down and turn white, cook the skewers, turning them from time to time, until the meat is done, about 10 minutes. Serve hot. Veal Liver in Chermoula ALGERIA, MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus marinating time COOKING TIME: 15 minutes SERVES: 4 While kebda mchermla is delicious warm, you can also let this liver dish cool and then refrigerate to serve it as a chilled starter. Be mindful to not overcook the liver, which will toughen if left too long in the pan. In Algeria, it is common to dash it with vinegar just before removing from the heat. It is best when served with homemade Frites (fries, page 000). 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or white vinegar ½ preserved lemon, seeded and cut into thin strips 2 cloves of garlic, minced 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon sweet paprika 500 g/1 lb 2 oz veal liver, trimmed and cut into 2-cm/¾-inch cubes salt 12 red or purple olives, to garnish Put the oil, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon water, preserved lemon, garlic, parsley, coriander (cilantro), cumin and paprika into a large bowl and mix together. Season with salt, add the liver and turn to coat. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Add the liver and all of the marinade along with 60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) water to a large frying pan or sauté pan and cook over a medium-low heat until the liver is cooked through and the sauce reduced, 12–15 minutes. Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with the olives and serve. Lamb Kebabs with Kidneys 366 Prawns Tagine in Spicy Pil-pil Sauce MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes COOKING TIME: 25 minutes SERVES: 4 This spicy tagine is a popular way to eat prawns (shrimp) in Morocco, especially in the north. The tomato sauce has plenty of garlic and hot cayenne pepper. Home cooks usually prepare using whole peeled prawns. The tails are often left on larger prawns. 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 cloves of garlic, minced 5 ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise and grated, peel discarded (see page 000) 2 heaped tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro) 1 teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste 500 g/1 lb 2 oz peeled raw prawns (shrimp), tail left on if desired salt and pepper lemon wedges, to serve Add the oil, garlic and tomatoes to a tagine (see page 000), heavy frying pan or sauté pan and cook, uncovered, over a medium heat until the tomatoes are pulpy and a deeper red, about 15 minutes. Stir in the coriander (cilantro), paprika, cumin and cayenne pepper, then season with salt and pepper. Add the prawns (shrimp) and turn to coat with the sauce. Cover the tagine with a lid and cook until the prawns are done, about 10 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. Tagine of Mussels in Tomato Sauce MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4 This mussel tagine is especially popular in the far north and far south of Morocco, where the Spanish influence runs stronger. It uses a classic Spanish tomato sofrito but is distinctively Morocco with cumin. Serve it with plenty of bread. Today, some cooks serve it over pasta or boiled white rice. 1.5 kg/3¼ lb large live mussels, rinsed 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 long sweet green pepper or ½ green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped 2 large cloves of garlic, minced 8 ripe medium–small tomatoes (about 1 kg/2¼ lb), halved crosswise and grated, peel discarded (see page 000) 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon sweet paprika ½ teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to garnish salt and pepper bread, to serve Trim and debeard the mussels, then scrape the outside of the shell with a paring knife if needed. Rinse under cold running water. Bring 120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water to the boil in a large pot or saucepan over a high heat. Add the mussels, cover with a lid and steam for 3–5 minutes until the mussels have opened, shaking the pot from time to time. Drain in a colander, reserving the liquid. Strain the liquid through a sieve and set aside. Remove and discard any mussels that did not open. Once cool enough to handle, shuck the mussels and discard the shells. Trim the beards with scissors. Heat the oil in a large tagine (see page 000), sauté pan or frying pan over a medium heat, add the green pepper and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic, then add the tomatoes, bay leaf, paprika and cumin. Season with salt and pepper and cook until darker and reduced, about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add a couple of tablespoons of the reserved liquid from the mussels to keep it moist. Add the mussels, parsley and 2–3 tablespoons of the reserved mussel liquid, then cover with a lid and cook for 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve from the tagine with bread. Prawns Tagine in Spicy Pil-pil Sauce 366 Milk Pudding with Steamed Dried Apricots and Chopped Almonds ALGERIA, LIBYA, TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutes, plus chilling time COOKING TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4 A classic milky pudding thickened with cornflour (cornstarch), palouza has a freshness to it that makes it a favourite on Ramadan evenings. This version is aromatized with orange blossom water or rose water and decorated with dried apricots softened by steaming. Allow time for the pudding to fully chill before serving. 4 tablespoons cornflour (cornstarch) 1 litre (34 fl oz/4¼ cups) cold full-fat (whole) milk 4–6 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon orange blossom water or rose water 6 dried apricots chopped almonds, to decorate Put the cornflour (cornstarch) and milk into a large saucepan and stir to dissolve, then add the sugar and cook over a low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until thickened, about 20 minutes. It should be light and velvety and coat the back of the spoon. Stir in the orange blossom water, then pour into the ramekins. Leave to cool, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours until well chilled. Bring a medium steamer pot or couscoussier to the boil with about 7.5 cm/3 inches water, put the apricots into the steamer basket, snugly cover with a lid and steam until soft, 6–8 minutes. Remove from the heat and once cool enough to handle, chop into small pieces. Before serving, sprinkle the apricots and almonds over the top of the pudding. Sorghum Pudding with Hazelnuts and Sesame Seeds TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 6–8 Bouza is a popular dessert made from gluten-free sorghum flour (droo) and ground nuts. You can make it with either hazelnuts or sesame seeds, though the classic version uses both. Grind the nuts very well. It can be served chilled as a cream to eat with a spoon or warm as a thick drink. This is the loose, almost liquidy version served in glasses. It is especially popular during Ramadan. 125 g/4¼ oz (¾ cup) sorghum flour 100 g/3½ oz (2⁄3 cup) hazelnuts 75 g/2¾ oz (½ cup) toasted sesame seeds 500 ml/18 fl oz (2 cups) milk 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar rose water or geranium flower water, to dash, optional ground pistachio, pistachios and/or almonds, to decorate Put the sorghum flour and 750 ml (25 fl oz/3 cups) water into a large bowl and whisk thoroughly until smooth and combined. Set aside. Put the hazelnuts into a medium ungreased frying pan and dry-toast over a low heat until warm and aromatic, 3–4 minutes. Rub off the skins if needed with your fingers or a dish towel and leave to cool. Put the hazelnuts into a food processor and grind into a fine, oily paste, then spoon into a large bowl. Put the sesame seeds into the food processor and grind to a fine and oily paste, then spoon into the bowl. Add 4–5 tablespoons water and blend with a whisk. Add the milk, sugar, sorghum mixture and the hazelnut-sesame seed mixture to a large saucepan and bring to a gentle boil over a medium heat, stirring constantly, about 20 minutes. It should be loose and semi-liquidy. Dash with rose water (if using). Pour into glasses and top with ground nuts. Serve warm or leave to cool. Milk Pudding with Steamed Dried Apricots and Chopped Almonds 366 366 Watermelon Lemonade MOROCCO PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutes, plus chilling time SERVES: 4; MAKES: 1 litre/34 fl oz (4¼ cups) Among the array of juices, this combination of watermelon and lemonade is particularly lovely and offers the essence of summer. Watermelon’s sweet freshness perfectly complements the tartness of the lemons. 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar 120 ml/4 fl oz (½ cup) fresh lemon juice 600 g/1 lb 5 oz watermelon flesh, seeded 1 sprig mint leaves ½ ripe lemon, preferably unwaxed or organic, thinly sliced ice cubes, to serve Put the sugar and 100 ml (3½ fl oz/1⁄3 cup) hot water into a large bowl and stir to dissolve. Stir in the lemon juice and set aside. Put the watermelon into a blender and purée. Strain through a sieve into a large jug (pitcher). Add the sweetened lemon juice. Thin with about 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) cold water or as desired. Add the mint leaves and lemon slices. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and chill in the refrigerator before serving. Serve in glasses over ice cubes. Lemonade with Fresh Mint TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes, plus chilling time SERVES: 4; MAKES: 1 litre/34 fl oz (4¼ cups) Refreshing, soothingly tart and deeply aromatic, this lovely, emerald coloured citronade à la menthe is Tunisia’s twist on fresh lemonade served across the Mediterranean. The southern part of the Cap Bon peninsula grows most of the country’s citruses, with the fields around beachside Hammamet – a traditional walled town overlooking a fifteenth-century kasbah (citadel) – the centre of lemon production. 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar 6–8 ripe lemons 1 handful mint leaves, plus 4 sprigs to garnish ice cubes, to serve Put the sugar and 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) hot water into a large bowl and stir to dissolve. Pour into a blender, scraping any remaining sugar from the bowl with a spatula. Juice the lemons. There should be about 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) of juice. Pour into the blender. Add the mint leaves and 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) cold water and blend well using quick pulses. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a large jug (pitcher), pressing out all the liquid with the back of a spoon. Discard the solids. Dilute the juice with 250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) cold water or as desired. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and chill until ready to serve. Stir and pour into ice cube-filled glasses. Garnish with sprigs of mint and serve. Classic Lemonade ALGERIA, MOROCCO, TUNISIA PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes, plus macerating and chilling time SERVES: 4; MAKES: 1 litre/34 fl oz (4¼ cups) This bold citronade uses the juice of the lemon and the zest, where the essence of the fruit resides. Some Moroccans like to add a dash of orange blossom water for fragrance. 4 ripe lemons, preferably unwaxed or organic 100 g/3½ oz (½ cup) sugar, plus extra as needed ice cubes, to serve Zest the lemon, removing only the yellow part. Put it into a large bowl, cover with the sugar, blend well and leave to macerate for 30 minutes. Juice the lemons and add to the bowl. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a large jug (pitcher). Return the solids to the bowl, pour in 750 ml (25 fl oz/3 cups) water, stir and strain, pressing out all the liquid with the back of a spoon. Discard the solids. Taste for sweetness and stir in more sugar if needed. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap) and chill until ready to serve. Serve over ice cubes. Lemonade with Fresh Mint Life in North Africa heavily revolves around that most important of passions, food. Drawing on Berber, Arabic and Ottoman influences as well as French, Spanish and Italian ones, this gorgeous cookbook explores the culinary diversity of the Maghreb, a region that spans Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya. From griddled flatbreads and zesty salads to aromatic tagines, grilled meat and fish and honey-rich pastries, The North African Cookbook showcases an authoritative collection of 445 traditional and contemporary recipes for the home cook.Next >