< Previous28WILD MUSHROOMS – MORELPREPARATION AND COOKING The morel is completely different to any of the main wild mushrooms we eat, which is probably why it is so fascinating, both in the forest and on the plate. Intricate but sturdy, it’s a mushroom ‘in-betweener’ that needs a certain amount of cooking to make it edible (it’s poisonous raw) and has a distinct, strong and nutty fl avour. As you can probably tell, morels are a bit high-maintenance to clean and it has to be a labour of love if you are preparing to eat quite a few of them. The wonderfully pretty, brain-like cap is also a popular home for a whole host of creepy crawlies and dirt. To prepare a morel, it’s a good idea to hold it over some kitchen paper and give it a couple of gentle taps so that the majority of unwelcome visitors and dirt are removed straightaway. Using a small paintbrush or tweezers, pick out the remaining bits and bobs you don’t want out of the morel’s pocketed fl esh. Take a cold damp cloth or piece of kitchen roll and wipe the whole mushroom. Cut the morel in half lengthways and wipe the insides gently. Alternatively, in some of our recipes we slice vertically (see the morel and shimeji fl atbreads on page 136 and Portuguese wild mushroom risotto on page 130), which makes for a pretty fl ower shape. Some chefs breadcrumb and fry the mushrooms whole, which negates the chopping open and cleaning them, but we recommend always cleaning and slicing. Chefs love these little mushroom morsels that offer a delicate taste of the woods and a unique texture, and they fi nd their way into sauces, stews, pies, casseroles and pasta dishes. Making a good pairing with creamy sauces and dishes, morels are also tasty with game and rich meats. We have teamed them up with duck livers for a smooth and rich-fl avoured pâté recipe on page 132, included them in meaty wild boar sausages (page 138), a spring focaccia (page 128) and a pulled rabbit ravioli (page 124).Storage: When morels are a little past their best they either start to dry out or collapse, becoming moist and deteriorating quickly. If you get freshly picked morels, they can last a week, but as with all mushrooms, and especially wild ones, it is best to eat them as soon as you can.Nutrition: Morels contain vitamin B and D, potassium and niacin. 86CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS – OYSTEROTHER NAMES Grey oyster, tree oyster, hiratake (in Japan), the vegetarian steak, tamogitake, dhingri, oyster shelfLATIN NAMES Pleurotus ostreatus, Pleurotus cornucopiaeUSUALLY FOUND IN The world overSEASON Spring to winter, but available all yearNearly as rich in diversity as the Agaricus (see page 78), the Pleurotus genus encompass delicate fan-like mushrooms of many different colours and sizes, of which there are at least four we regularly enjoy eating. Commercially cultivated and plentifully available, this includes the grey or silver oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus), the smaller bright-yellow golden oyster (Pleurotus cornucopiae var citrinopileatus), the pale rose-coloured pink oyster (Pleurotus djamor) and the larger eryngii (Pleurotus eryngii – see page 100 for more details on this one).Full bodied and delicate, the oyster mushroom is the most like an old-fashioned lady’s fan, with light-coloured gills starting from the tip of the cap to the base of the mushroom, where there is a slight stem. Light and almost spongy in texture, the cap is velvety and usually slightly darker grey than the gills. The golden oyster mushroom – named tamogitake in Japan – grows in clusters with long stems and small, round trumpet-like caps. They are bright yellow to golden brown with a velvety, dry surface texture and looks similar to the winter chanterelle (page 40). The pink oyster mushroom grows more like the original oyster in ear shapes, coming away in a fan from the chosen decaying wood or tree in the wild or growing substrate in a growing tunnel. As you might expect, this oyster ranges from light pink to hot pink and can grow as large as the main oyster mushroom, although it is often grows to about half the size. Being saprophytic and extremely versatile in different conditions, the wild oyster mushroom grows everywhere and anywhere in both temperate and tropical forests from Europe to Asia, the US and the UK, on dying trees, especially beech, and decaying wood. It is a ‘carnivorous’ mushroom and attracts nematode worms towards it so the nitrogen can be sucked out of them. Pretty much able to survive all kinds of atmospheres, oyster mushrooms are big business in the cultivated world and have been encouraged to grow for centuries on logs or tree stumps in Asia, much the same way as shiitake mushrooms are and have been. Oyster mushrooms are now typically grown in substrate blocks coated in plastic within professional facilities and are the third most-produced mushroom by volume in Asia.> continues overleafOyster THE TREE LOVERGolden oyster mushrooms > 98CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS – SHIMEJIOTHER NAMES Beech, elm oyster, mountain echo mushroomLATIN NAME Hypsizygus tessellatusUSUALLY FOUND IN Asia, Europe, North America, AustraliaSEASON Autumn, but available all yearStorage:Store in open containers in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Nutrition: Rich in dietary fi bre, shimeji contains antioxidants, niacin, vitamins and minerals. Shimeji is a small, fi rm white or brown mushroom with a both crunchy and chewy texture and somewhat of a cult following in Asia. So perfectly formed they almost look cartoon-like, shimeji comes in both white, otherwise known as bunapi-shimeji, or brown (known as buna-shimeji), and it is grown under brand names throughout Asia. Firm and fragrant, these mushrooms are also called brown shimeji and white shimeji, and in Japan, they are generally believed to be the tastiest mushrooms you can get. The white shimeji is brilliant white with perfectly formed caps the size of the tip of your thumb, whereas the brown shimeji has identical white stems but with light brown caps featuring a darker brown almost dried marble effect. Over the years, the term ‘shimeji’ has become an umbrella name for around 20 different shimeji mushroom species, but in the Western world it is most commonly known as the beech mushroom. They lend themselves well to commercial cultivation, reaching extreme high standards of quality and are usually cultivated in sterilized bottles or jars of substrate, in controlled growing rooms at a temperature of around 14°C and with a humidity level of 80%. Like any mushroom that’s been coaxed to grow from its wild spores in an artifi cial environment, its form is ever so slightly different to its wild original, which can be found growing in great numbers throughout Asia, America and Australia. Growing in clusters, they do well in hotter climates, but wild grow throughout the world. Native to East Asia and found growing naturally on beech trees, hence the name, the mushrooms have a long stem in portion to their smooth cap, so small that the gills are invisible to the naked eye.PREPARATION AND COOKINGThese cultivated mushrooms are quite sturdy and self-contained, so can handle a swift rinse under cold running water before you prepare them. Once washed, simply cut off the substrate bottom and either blanch to use in a salad, stir-fry or add to a soup or sauce. Although edible raw, they have a slightly bitter essence, and mostly people tend to cook them. Keeping its fi rm yet squidgy texture when cooked, this mushroom has a sweet, nutty taste and is known for its inclusion in the Japanese rice dish ‘takikomi goham’. Highly regarded as a gourmet mushroom in Japan, shimeji naturally features in many of our Asian infl uenced recipes like mushroom sushi, Asian mushroom and pork ramen, and som tum (pages 162, 206 and 168), but we have also experimented with its taste and textures for the less-traditional recipes morel and shimeji fl atbreads (page 136) and the mushroom pork pie (page 154).Shimeji THE BRANDED ONE128SPRING – MOREL, WILD GARLIC AND ASPARAGUS FOCACCIAMorel, wild garlic and asparagus focacciaWarming, fi lling and rich, focaccia is a great platform for three bounties of spring: the morel mushroom, wild garlic and asparagus. Earthy, naturally sweet and aromatically allium-like, these fl avours combine with the comfortingly soft, moist bread, which you’ll enjoy baking (and smelling) as much as eating. 500g/1¼lb strong wholemeal (whole-wheat) fl our500g/1¼lb strong white fl our, plus extra for dusting10g/2 tsp pink peppercorns, crushed, plus extra to garnish7g/2½ tsp fast-action yeast500ml/17fl oz/generous 2 cups warm water100ml/3.5fl oz/½ cup extra virgin rapeseed oil, plus extra for greasing and drizzling100g/3¾oz wild garlic, ripped into shreds200g/7oz asparagus, sliced in half vertically and roughly chopped200g/7oz morels or any other spring or cultivated mushrooms, sliced lengthwaysZest of 1 lemonSea saltΜακεσ 1 λαργε λοαφΡεαδψ ιν 1 ηουρ, πλυσ ρεστινγ1 In a large bowl, combine the two flours, 1 tsp of the pink peppercorns and a pinch of salt. Make a well in the middle of the flour with your fist and sprinkle the yeast into it. Mix together warm water and 85ml/3fl oz/¾ cup of the oil in a jug or pitcher and pour into the well. Stir in a figure-of-eight motion, until a dough forms.2 Knead the dough by pushing the dough over itself in a folding motion, continuously, in the bowl for 10 minutes, adding further flour if needed. On a floured surface, knead in the wild garlic, then asparagus and morels, retaining a few pieces of both for decoration. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover with oiled clear film or plastic wrap and a clean dish towel, and place in a warm place to prove for 30 minutes. 3 Preheat the oven to 220ºC/425ºF/Gas 7 and grease an A4-size rectangular flat baking sheet. Knock back the dough, by pushing the air out of it with your fist. On a surface lightly dusted with flour, knead half the lemon zest into the dough for 2 minutes, then stretch the dough out to fit the prepared baking sheet. 4 Push about 12 spaced-out dents into the bread with your thumb and top with the remaining pink peppercorns, asparagus and morels, then drizzle with the remaining 15ml/1 tbsp oil. Cover with the dish towel and leave to prove again for 20 minutes. After proving, bake for 20–25 minutes, until risen and golden. Brush with more oil and serve, garnished with the remaining lemon zest, pink peppercorns and salt.P E R S E RVI NG: ENER GY 329K C AL/13 91K J | P R OTE I N 10.3G | C AR B O HYD R ATE 59.5G, O F WH I C H S U GAR S 2.0G | FAT 7G, O F WH I C H SATU R ATES 1.0G | CHOL E S T E ROL 0 MG | C A LCI U M 9 4 MG | F IBRE 7.5G | S O D I U M 15M G.130SPRING – PORTUGUESE WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTOPortuguese wild mushroom risotto40g/1½oz dried ceps2 saffron threads15ml/1 tbsp olive oil15g/1 tbsp butter4 garlic cloves, whole1 onion, chopped2.5g/½ tsp sugar200g/7oz St George’s mushrooms, chopped 100g/3¾oz horse or button (white) mushrooms 400g/14oz risotto rice125ml/4fl oz/½ cup white wine1 preserved lemon, chopped, plus extra to serve100g/3¾oz pom poms, chopped200g/7oz morels, chopped400g/14oz canned tomatoes, chopped100g/3¾oz green olives, pitted7g/2½ tsp chopped fresh fl at leaf parsleySea salt and ground black pepperΣερϖεσ 4Ρεαδψ ιν 45 mινυτεσ1 Place the dried ceps in a jug or pitcher and fill with 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups of boiling water, then add the saffron. Stand for 10 minutes.2 Meanwhile, in a large pan, heat the olive oil and butter, then add the whole garlic cloves and chopped onion, and then sprinkle with the sugar. Sauté for 5 minutes, until the onions are soft. Stir in the St George’s mushrooms and horse or button mushrooms and cook for 1 minute. Season with a pinch of salt, then add the rice, stirring to coat with the mixture. Stir in the wine and lemon, then bring to a high simmer to reduce the liquid. Add a ladle of the cep and saffron water, and reduce it down, stirring as you go. 3 Remove the rehydrated dried ceps from the saffron water, chop and add to the pan. Continue to add the saffron water, a ladle at a time, reducing it each time, whilst constantly stirring. This should take around 20 minutes. 4 Stir in the pom pom mushrooms, morel mushrooms and the canned tomatoes and reduce down again, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. Mix in the olives and parsley, then season with salt and pepper, and serve.A Portuguese risotto is a cross between a paella and a risotto, with sharp olives and preserved lemons giving the creaminess of the rice a tart contrast. Portugal has a long history of using wild mushrooms in cooking, as well as commercial foraging. You can use any kind of mushroom in this risotto – add the more delicate ones towards the end and the sturdier mushrooms at the beginning. We have added some cultivated pom pom and horse mushrooms into the mix too, to give a bit more texture.P E R S E RVI NG: ENER GY 4 9 4 K C AL/20 64K J | P R OTE I N 11.4G | C AR B O HYD R ATE 83.7G, O F WH I C H S U GAR S 3.4G | FAT 10G, O F WH I C H SATU R ATES 2.9G | CHOL E S T E ROL 8 MG | C A LCI U M 6 2 MG | F IBRE 4.2G | S O D I U M 634M G.Next >