< PreviousI love scallops and always eat them when I’m by the sea, but they are so delicate that to serve them I have to be sure they are super fresh. When I found Paraíso das Ostras in the very southern part of Florianópolis, I felt safe preparing their scallops at the restaurant (page xxx [Oysters, crabs, and white mussels]). They are super fresh and fleshy, and the exterior of the shells comes to me so clean that it would be possible to use them if we want to. The rest of the ingredients came together to enhance the scallops’ freshness. The Brazil nut foam creates a puzzle, making the guests even more curious about what they are eating. Scallop and Brazil nut 200 g garlic chives 60 g mint leaves 15 g ground cumin 50 g chives 50 g cilantro (coriander) leaves 50 g curd 100 g plain (natural) yogurt pinch of salt 1 kg cashew nuts 1 L sunflower oil 1 kg Brazil nuts 2 L cold water 60 ml lemon juice pinch of salt 5 g gelatin sheet (hydrated in cold water) 50 g fish roe (sturgeon) 80 ml coconut oil 60 ml tucupi 50 g uarini manioc flour 18 g pimenta de cheiro (green chile pepper) 15 g sliced scallion (spring onion) salt, to season 4 fresh scallops For the green sauce For the cashew nut oil For the Brazil nut foam For the fish roe sauce For the uarini couscous To serve Serves 4 Green saucePass the garlic chives through a juicer to extract the juice. Refrigerate the juice until cold. Pour the juice into a blender, add the remaining ingredients, and blend at high speed for 5 minutes. Strain, then refrigerate until needed. Cashew nut oil Combine the cashews and sunflower oil in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes at 300°F (150°C), or until the nuts are toasted. Remove from the heat, then cool the saucepan in an ice bath. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend at high speed for 10 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth (muslin), then store the cashew nut oil at room tempera- ture until needed. (Leftover oil can be used in other recipes.) Brazil nut foam Place the Brazil nuts and water in a large jar and cover with cheesecloth. Let stand at room temperature for 48 hours to ferment. Transfer the fermented mixture to a blender and blend at high speed for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Pour the mixture into a saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat. Season with lemon juice and salt, then stir in the hydrated gelatin. Strain, then place in a siphon bottle and add 2 charges. Refrigerate for 6 hours. Fish roe sauce Place the ingredients in a small bowl and blend using an immer- sion blender until emulsified. Transfer to a tube and refrigerate until needed. Uarini couscous Warm the tucupi in a small saucepan. Gradually add the uarini manioca flour, mixing continuously with a spoon. Add the chile and scallion (spring onion). Season with salt. To serveCut each scallop into 3 slices. Put a drop of fish roe sauce in each bowls. Arrange the scallop slices in the bowl, then drizzle the cashew nut oil and green sauce around the scallops. Cover everything with the Brazil nut foam and finish with the uarini couscous. Serve immediately. M et am or ph os is 1110I love scallops and always eat them when I’m by the sea, but they are so delicate that to serve them I have to be sure they are super fresh. When I found Paraíso das Ostras in the very southern part of Florianópolis, I felt safe preparing their scallops at the restaurant (page xxx [Oysters, crabs, and white mussels]). They are super fresh and fleshy, and the exterior of the shells comes to me so clean that it would be possible to use them if we want to. The rest of the ingredients came together to enhance the scallops’ freshness. The Brazil nut foam creates a puzzle, making the guests even more curious about what they are eating. Scallop and Brazil nut 200 g garlic chives 60 g mint leaves 15 g ground cumin 50 g chives 50 g cilantro (coriander) leaves 50 g curd 100 g plain (natural) yogurt pinch of salt 1 kg cashew nuts 1 L sunflower oil 1 kg Brazil nuts 2 L cold water 60 ml lemon juice pinch of salt 5 g gelatin sheet (hydrated in cold water) 50 g fish roe (sturgeon) 80 ml coconut oil 60 ml tucupi 50 g uarini manioc flour 18 g pimenta de cheiro (green chile pepper) 15 g sliced scallion (spring onion) salt, to season 4 fresh scallops For the green sauce For the cashew nut oil For the Brazil nut foam For the fish roe sauce For the uarini couscous To serve Serves 4 Green saucePass the garlic chives through a juicer to extract the juice. Refrigerate the juice until cold. Pour the juice into a blender, add the remaining ingredients, and blend at high speed for 5 minutes. Strain, then refrigerate until needed. Cashew nut oil Combine the cashews and sunflower oil in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook for 10 minutes at 300°F (150°C), or until the nuts are toasted. Remove from the heat, then cool the saucepan in an ice bath. Transfer the mixture to a blender and blend at high speed for 10 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth (muslin), then store the cashew nut oil at room tempera- ture until needed. (Leftover oil can be used in other recipes.) Brazil nut foam Place the Brazil nuts and water in a large jar and cover with cheesecloth. Let stand at room temperature for 48 hours to ferment. Transfer the fermented mixture to a blender and blend at high speed for 10 minutes, or until smooth. Pour the mixture into a saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat. Season with lemon juice and salt, then stir in the hydrated gelatin. Strain, then place in a siphon bottle and add 2 charges. Refrigerate for 6 hours. Fish roe sauce Place the ingredients in a small bowl and blend using an immer- sion blender until emulsified. Transfer to a tube and refrigerate until needed. Uarini couscous Warm the tucupi in a small saucepan. Gradually add the uarini manioca flour, mixing continuously with a spoon. Add the chile and scallion (spring onion). Season with salt. To serveCut each scallop into 3 slices. Put a drop of fish roe sauce in each bowls. Arrange the scallop slices in the bowl, then drizzle the cashew nut oil and green sauce around the scallops. Cover everything with the Brazil nut foam and finish with the uarini couscous. Serve immediately. M et am or ph os is 1110M et am or ph os is 1312 I love to go the extra mile, and creating a seaweed dessert was always a goal of mine. I like the sea air and the taste of it in desserts. Strawberries in season have a slight sweetness and acidity, perfect with the seaweed salsa. Strawberry and seaweed 230 g strawberries 105 g honey 450 ml water 100 g dill 130 ml grapeseed oil 10 g hydrated tapioca flour 75 ml water 10 g toasted nori sheets 35 ml light soy sauce 13 ml lemon juice 4 lemons 120 ml sunflower oil For the strawberry sorbet For the dill oil For the seaweed salsa For the lemon oil Serves 4 Strawberry sorbet Combine all the ingredients in a pacotizing beaker. Seal and freeze at -8°F (-22°C) for at least 24 hours. Pacotize again before use. Dill oilCombine the dill and oil in a blender and blend for 3 minutes, or until the dill leaves are finely ground. Strain through a coffee filter with a weight on top for about 6 hours, until completely strained. Refrigerate until needed. Seaweed salsa In a small saucepan, combine the tapioca flour with 50 ml of water and cook over medium heat until it forms a gel. Remove from the heat and set aside. With scissors, chop the nori and place in a blender with the remaining 25 ml of water, soy sauce, and lemon juice. Blend on high speed until well combined. Add the tapioca gel and pulse to mix. Refrigerate until needed. Lemon oilUse a microplane to zest the lemons. Cut each lemon into 3 thick slices. Heat 10 ml of sunflower oil in a large heavy-bot- tomed skillet over high heat. Add the lemon slices and char both sides. Reduce the heat to medium heat and lightly press on the lemons to extract some of the juice. Using a skimmer, transfer the lemons to a plate lined with paper towel to drain well. Reduce the heat to low, then add the remaining 110 ml oil to the skillet. Add the lemon zest and warm until fragrant, then remove immediately to prevent the zest from burning. Set aside at room temperature until needed. To servePlace a spoonful of seaweed salsa in each shallow bowl. Add a little lemon zest to the lemon oil and drizzle into the bowls. Place a quenelle of strawberry sorbet in the center and finish with a drizzle of dill oil.M et am or ph os is 1312 I love to go the extra mile, and creating a seaweed dessert was always a goal of mine. I like the sea air and the taste of it in desserts. Strawberries in season have a slight sweetness and acidity, perfect with the seaweed salsa. Strawberry and seaweed 230 g strawberries 105 g honey 450 ml water 100 g dill 130 ml grapeseed oil 10 g hydrated tapioca flour 75 ml water 10 g toasted nori sheets 35 ml light soy sauce 13 ml lemon juice 4 lemons 120 ml sunflower oil For the strawberry sorbet For the dill oil For the seaweed salsa For the lemon oil Serves 4 Strawberry sorbet Combine all the ingredients in a pacotizing beaker. Seal and freeze at -8°F (-22°C) for at least 24 hours. Pacotize again before use. Dill oilCombine the dill and oil in a blender and blend for 3 minutes, or until the dill leaves are finely ground. Strain through a coffee filter with a weight on top for about 6 hours, until completely strained. Refrigerate until needed. Seaweed salsa In a small saucepan, combine the tapioca flour with 50 ml of water and cook over medium heat until it forms a gel. Remove from the heat and set aside. With scissors, chop the nori and place in a blender with the remaining 25 ml of water, soy sauce, and lemon juice. Blend on high speed until well combined. Add the tapioca gel and pulse to mix. Refrigerate until needed. Lemon oilUse a microplane to zest the lemons. Cut each lemon into 3 thick slices. Heat 10 ml of sunflower oil in a large heavy-bot- tomed skillet over high heat. Add the lemon slices and char both sides. Reduce the heat to medium heat and lightly press on the lemons to extract some of the juice. Using a skimmer, transfer the lemons to a plate lined with paper towel to drain well. Reduce the heat to low, then add the remaining 110 ml oil to the skillet. Add the lemon zest and warm until fragrant, then remove immediately to prevent the zest from burning. Set aside at room temperature until needed. To servePlace a spoonful of seaweed salsa in each shallow bowl. Add a little lemon zest to the lemon oil and drizzle into the bowls. Place a quenelle of strawberry sorbet in the center and finish with a drizzle of dill oil.M et am or ph os is 1514 This dessert, our second popsicle, revolutionized the menu at Manu. The first (1.0) was made with Brazilian nut milk. In the second version (2.0), we better understood how to make it, and we used cheap little South American peanuts. The peanuts in this popsicle are special. They are produced by Divonei Mariano from Vale e Cia, who also supplies the brown sugar and the molasses used at the restaurant (page 208). We receive the peanuts raw in the bean and with plenty of dirt, so we allow a generous amount of time for making the milk. The recipe also uses a coffee from Terezinha das Graças Rodrigues at Distinto Café, a producer from the city of Pinhalão (page 48) who passed away recently. I had a strong connection with her. I am touched by the metamorphosis that we, the cooks at Manu, make with these extraordinary ingredients from these remarkable farmers. Peanut popsicle 2.0 300 g raw peanuts 450 ml whole (full-fat) milk 90 g egg yolks (about 5) 100 g sugar 300 ml heavy (double) cream 300 ml Peanut Milk (see here) fleur de sel, for sprinkling coffee bean shavings, for sprinkling For the peanut milk For the peanut popsicle To serve Serves 4 Peanut milkHeat a heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add the peanuts and toast for 15 minutes, stirring continuously to prevent them from burning. Transfer the peanuts to a blender, add the milk, and blend on high speed for 10 minutes. Strain the milk through a chinois or cheesecloth (muslin). Set aside. Peanut popsicle In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale. Combine the cream and peanut milk in a small saucepan and warm slightly. Pour the mixture little by little into the stand mixer, gently mixing until fully incorporated. Transfer the mixture to a bain-marie and cook for about 10 minutes, never allowing it to exceed 140°F (60°C). Set aside to cool completely. Pour the mixture into silicone popsicle molds and sprinkle fleur de sel over the top of each. Freeze for at least 6 hours, until frozen. To serveRemove the popsicles from the molds and place on a tray of ice. Sprinkle with the coffee bean shavings and serve immediately.M et am or ph os is 1514 This dessert, our second popsicle, revolutionized the menu at Manu. The first (1.0) was made with Brazilian nut milk. In the second version (2.0), we better understood how to make it, and we used cheap little South American peanuts. The peanuts in this popsicle are special. They are produced by Divonei Mariano from Vale e Cia, who also supplies the brown sugar and the molasses used at the restaurant (page 208). We receive the peanuts raw in the bean and with plenty of dirt, so we allow a generous amount of time for making the milk. The recipe also uses a coffee from Terezinha das Graças Rodrigues at Distinto Café, a producer from the city of Pinhalão (page 48) who passed away recently. I had a strong connection with her. I am touched by the metamorphosis that we, the cooks at Manu, make with these extraordinary ingredients from these remarkable farmers. Peanut popsicle 2.0 300 g raw peanuts 450 ml whole (full-fat) milk 90 g egg yolks (about 5) 100 g sugar 300 ml heavy (double) cream 300 ml Peanut Milk (see here) fleur de sel, for sprinkling coffee bean shavings, for sprinkling For the peanut milk For the peanut popsicle To serve Serves 4 Peanut milkHeat a heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Add the peanuts and toast for 15 minutes, stirring continuously to prevent them from burning. Transfer the peanuts to a blender, add the milk, and blend on high speed for 10 minutes. Strain the milk through a chinois or cheesecloth (muslin). Set aside. Peanut popsicle In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and sugar until pale. Combine the cream and peanut milk in a small saucepan and warm slightly. Pour the mixture little by little into the stand mixer, gently mixing until fully incorporated. Transfer the mixture to a bain-marie and cook for about 10 minutes, never allowing it to exceed 140°F (60°C). Set aside to cool completely. Pour the mixture into silicone popsicle molds and sprinkle fleur de sel over the top of each. Freeze for at least 6 hours, until frozen. To serveRemove the popsicles from the molds and place on a tray of ice. Sprinkle with the coffee bean shavings and serve immediately.P as sio n Fr uit 8584 It’s a Thursday morning in late January and I’m sitting at my kitchen table with my daughters, Helena and Maria, aged seven and five respec- tively. If I look to the right, I can see my gas stove just behind me and the light that comes through two latticed windows over the big sink. A little closer is a sizeable rectangular countertop where sev- eral people can work comfortably side by side, while three others can watch them from the other side, sitting on high stools. If I look to the left, I see our merle border collie, Snow, sitting outside by the glass sliding door leading to the barbecue and swimming pool area. I just had some coffee, and the girls are having fresh coconut water and French toast I prepared with leftover brioche from Manu. I love when they say I make the best French toast they’ve ever had. My secret is to blend the eggs using a stand mixer until emulsified, then add a few drops of vanilla extract, cinnamon, a pinch of salt, a little panettone mix, and milk. I soak the bread in the mixture and grill it in a skillet with butter. Sometimes I melt brown sugar with a little water and add chopped banana or strawberry on top. I do not have fresh fruit on this day, and they’ve asked for honey, as both like to pour it overtop. Helena prefers jataí honey, while Maria goes with tubuna. This morning, just to tease her sister, Maria lobs a large amount of jataí honey on Helena’s toast. Helena gives a little whimper of protest, and I have to calm them down. It’s early, and we are dressed for a tennis lesson. When I think about my life, I feel satisfied. We live in the house that I chose and could purchase thanks to my and my husband’s efforts. We are in the city I love, where my work is respected, and where I find the best ingredi- ents to cook with. I’m one of the few chefs in Curitiba who owns their restaurant. I don’t have significant debts, and many new adventures are on my horizon. I take my cup of hot coffee, open the sliding door, and go outside. It is heartwarming to have Snow greet me so enthusiastically. I turn right and look at my small vegetable garden, with the herbs I like to use for cooking. I always have parsley, three or four varieties of mint, rosemary, coriander, chives, and two kinds of basil. Tomatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, lettuce, spinach, carrots, and sometimes beets (beetroots) also grow there. It’s hot, and the manduri and jataí native bees from the boxes at the garden entrance are agitated. I identify with the bees, this big group of insects, the vast major- ity of which are female, that follow the strong and tireless queen. They spend the day looking for the best ingredients to produce wax, propolis, and honey. As bees visit plants seeking food, pollen catches on their bodies and passes between plants, fertilizing them—pollination. I see a clear turning point in my career. Shortly after I sold the bras- serie MB, I started stress-control training with Nilzo Andrade, a professional working with CEOs, athletes, chefs, and manag- ers on a program that combines yoga, breath training, and other stress-management techniques. We recognized that while I could multitask and juggle my passions, I needed to improve the way I managed my emotions and learn to channel my energies into the things that truly mattered to me. And I needed to hire someone to manage the cash at the restaurant. After some months of practice, I was able to transform the kitchen into a calm environment, and I learned how to prioritize what is essential. That was 2016, the year I became a mother, giving birth to Helena, and then Maria was born the following year. Today, Manu is the size I always wanted—a fine-dining restaurant with five tables that serves a tasting menu and is open for dinner only, from Wednesday to Saturday. As a restaurant, we built in three days of rest, even before the pandemic created the trend. I never work on Sundays. If I am in Brazil, this is the day I go to mass and play sports or cook for friends and family. Like the generations before me, I put all my heart into thinking about what to prepare, how to set the table, and the drinks I’ll serve for those I love and who are always there for me. I allocate two working days only to resolving all administrative con- cerns and contacting my suppliers. On Mondays and Tuesdays, I work from home, so I have more time with my daughters. From Wednesday to Saturday, I go to the restaurant. Even on more complicated days, I never return home later than 11 p.m. As soon as she finishes her French toast, Maria opens the glass door and comes to rescue me from my daydream. It’s time to start a new day. Our tennis class will begin in twenty minutes, and I will go to the restaurant in the afternoon to welcome my guests with a big smile. At the end of the night, I will say my goodbyes to each diner, thanking them for having chosen to eat my food at my restaurant. tracking test. Helena, Maria, and Snow Im ag ina tio n 141140 My husband makes an excellent barbecue. Sunday is usually when he does the main courses, and I take care of the starters and side dishes. Sometimes when he is preparing the meat, I grill vegetables and fruits. Grilled (griddled) watermelon is one of my favorites. I knew I would make a dish like this one day. Then the moment came that I received a very good fatty tuna loin. Tuna, lard, and watermelon 200 g fatty tuna loin 4 slices lard, each a 21/2-inch (6-cm) square 500 g watermelon 30 ml olive oil salt, to season 400 g Brazil nuts 600 ml water 200 ml coconut water 50 g emerina native bee honey salt, to season zest of 1 lemon For the tuna For the watermelon For the white sauce Serves 4 TunaCut the tuna loin into 4 pieces. Slice into 1/2- × 11/2-inch (1- × 4-cm) sashimi. Arrange on a J-cloth at room temperature. Place a lardo slice on each piece of tuna. WatermelonPreheat a grill to low (250°F/120°C). Cut the watermelon into 1/2- × 11/2-inch (1- × 4-cm) slices, brush with the olive oil, and place on the grill. Grill for 40 seconds on each side. White saucePlace the Brazil nuts, water, coconut water, and honey in a Thermomix and mix for 12 minutes. Season with salt and lemon zest. To serveSpread some sauce on each plate, arrange 3 slices of tuna with lard overtop, and then top with the grilled (griddled) watermelon slices. Th e F ie ld t o t he S ea 175174 I like the light pink meat and delicate flavor of the Hampshire Down lamb breed we buy from a local producer. It matches the color of beet (beetroot) so well that I decided to use them together. I use the whole lamb carcass, and use beet juice in lieu of wine to make the glace. Lamb and beet 100 g small beets (beetroot) 100 ml beet (beetroot) juice 50 ml cranberry juice 30 ml light soy sauce 5 g ground cumin 25 g cubed cold butter 80 ml Demi-Glace (page xxx [Lamb, onions, and peanuts]) 25 ml reserved Glazed Beets sauce (see here) 1 g fine pink salt 1 g sugar 180 g lamb T-bone steak, without bone (about 1 loin) olive oil, for brushing 20 g butter fleur de sel, for sprinkling For the glazed beets For the beef and beet salsa For the lamb To serve Serves 4 Glazed beets Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Wrap each beet (beetroot) in aluminum foil and bake for 30–50 minutes, until tender. Remove the beets from the oven and let cool. Peel the beets, then cut them in half. In a skillet, bring half of the beet juice, the cranberry juice, soy sauce, and cumin to a boil. Boil until reduced by a third. Add half of the cold butter, tilting the skillet to incorporate and emulsify it, until the mixture has thickened. Add the rest of the beet juice and the remaining butter, alternating them. Stir until well blended. Reserve 25 g of this sauce to make the beef and beet salsa. Reserve the beets in the skillet until needed. Beef and beet salsa Combine the demi-glace and glazed beets sauce in a saucepan and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes, or until reduced by half. Set aside until needed. LambIn a small bowl, combine the salt and sugar. Rub over the lamb, then place the lamb on a wire rack set over a baking sheet to cure, uncovered in the refrigerator, for 4 hours. Pat dry the lamb with paper towel. Heat a skillet over high heat. Brush the lamb with a little olive oil and sear on each side for 30 seconds. Add the butter to the skillet and cook the lamb for another 30 seconds on each side. Transfer to a wire rack to rest for 4 minutes. To serveHeat the beets with their sauce over medium heat, taking care not to scorch them. (If the sauce starts to curdle, emulsify again with a little beet juice.) Warm the beef and beet salsa. Cut the lamb into 4 pieces and arrange one on each plate, cut side up. Place a beet half beside each, along with a little beet sauce. Cover one end of the lamb loin with 1 tablespoon of salsa and finish with the fleur de sel. Serve immediately. C on ne ct ion 211210 Priprioca and passion fruit skin 1.0 Priprioca is an Amazonian root that is often used in perfumes, but it can also be cooked. The Indigenous people use this incredible root as a unique seasoning—it has a distinct flavor and smell. 500 ml whole (full-fat) milk 125 g sugar 8 ml corn syrup 5 g grated priprioca root 0.5 g baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) 0.01 g salt 150 g fresh passion fruit pulp 50 ml water 35 g tapioca pearls 100 g Yogurt Ice Cream (page xxx [Tucupi, Coconut, and Peanut]) For the priprioca For the passion To serve Serves 4 Priprioca dulce de leche Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over low heat. Boil for about 4 hours, stirring frequently, until creamy and a light caramel color. Remove from the heat and let cool. Transfer to a container and refrigerate until needed. Passion fruit crisp In a small saucepan, combine the passion fruit pulp and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes. Strain through a chinois, discarding the seeds. Return the liquid to the saucepan, add the tapioca pearls, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring constantly with a whisk. Strain again, then pass the liquid through a chinois and refrigerate until cool. Using a rubber spatula, spread the mixture on a Silpat and dehydrate for about 12 hours at 100°F (38°C), until crispy and glossy. To servePut a spoonful of the priprioca dulce de leche on each plate. Top with a quenelle of yogurt ice cream and scatter irregular pieces of passion fruit crisp overtop. M et am or ph os is 125124 I have fond memories of Guegué’s coconut cake. I revisited this recipe for a dessert at the restau- rant. In the original version, she used condensed milk to moisten the cake, but at the restaurant we use a peanut milk. And we serve it with yogurt ice cream. The punch comes from the tucupi salsa, which no one else in Brazil dares to use in a dessert. Tucupi, coconut, and peanuts 150 g roasted peanuts 500 ml water 25 g sugar 500 g plain (natural) yogurt 120 g quark cheese 100 g confectioners’ (icing) sugar 80 ml whole (full-fat) milk 50 ml heavy (double) cream 1 L tucupi 100 g cilantro (coriander) 100 g micro basil leaves 100 ml passion fruit juice 50 ml sour passion fruit juice 60 g tapioca pearls 100 ml whole (full-fat) milk 60 ml Coconut Milk (page xxx) 90 g eggs 120 g all-purpose (plain) flour 60 g room-temperature butter 100 g sugar 12 g baking powder 30 g brown sugar 35 ml light shoyu 7.5 ml liquid smoke 16 coconut ribbons (about 60 g) 60 g butter 6 g cilantro (coriander) leaves For the peanut milk For the yogurt ice cream For the tucupi salsa For the coconut cake For the coconut bacon To serve Serves 4 Peanut milkHydrate the peanuts in 300 ml of water for 24 hours. Drain the water, then transfer the peanuts to a Thermomix and add the remaining 200 ml of water and sugar. Mix on high speed for 15 minutes at 194°F (90°C). Set aside to cool. Yogurt ice cream Combine all the ingredients in a pacotizing beaker. Seal the beaker and freeze at -8°F (-22°C) for at least 24 hours. Mix 2 hours before use. Tucupi salsaHeat the tucupi in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through. Remove from the heat, then stir in the cilantro (corian- der) and basil. Cover and set aside for 2 hours for the flavors to infuse. Strain the tucupi into another saucepan, add the regular and sour passion fruit juices and simmer over low heat, until the liquid has reduced to 400 g. Stir in the tapioca pearls, mixing with a whisk to thicken the stock. Strain the mixture into another saucepan and let cool. Heat the mixture over medium heat for 5–10 minutes to thicken. Using an immersion blender, blend the mixture until smooth. Refrigerate until needed. Coconut cake Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). In a bowl, whisk together the milk, coconut milk, and eggs to combine. In another bowl, sift the flour. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until doubled in volume. Reduce the speed and slowly incorporate the wet ingredients and the flour, alternating them. Add the baking powder and gently mix until fully incorporated. Pour the batter into a greased baking pan and bake for 25–30 minutes. Set aside to cool, then cut into 5/8-inch (1.5-cm) squares. Transfer the cake to a bowl and soak in the peanut milk to moisten. Refrigerate until needed. Coconut bacon In a mixing bowl, combine the brown sugar, shoyu, and liquid smoke and mix until the sugar has dissolved. Add the coconut ribbons and marinate for 30 minutes. Drain the ribbons. Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the coconut ribbons and fry for 10 minutes, turning frequently, until completed dried out and crispy. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towel to cool. Keep the coconut ribbons in a dehydrator until needed. To servePut 25 ml of tucupi salsa in each bowl. Add a spoonful of mois- tened cake and top with a quenelle of yogurt ice cream. Place 2 slices of coconut bacon on top and finish with the cilantro (coriander) leaves. Serve immediately. Im ag ina tio n 145144 We use kefir as a fermentation starter at Manu, as my family has been doing since I was a toddler. I used it to compose this dessert that references the yogurt, honey, and granola that some people eat for breakfast. This recipe, though, has a few turn- ing points, using pollen instead of honey and a spe- cial granola. Kefir, granola, and pollen 30 g licuri 25 g rice flakes 15 g brown sugar 12 g chia seeds 12 g quinoa 12 g flaxseeds 10 g corn flakes 35 g honey 100 g kefir 100 g yogurt ice cream (page xxx [Tucupi, coconut, and peanuts]) 50 g frozen borá stingless bee pollen (needs to be frozen to grate) 20 g mandaçaia native bee honey For the granola To serve Serves 4 Granola Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C). In a bowl, carefully mix all the ingredients together. Pour the mixture on a Silpat and bake for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Transfer to an airtight container to preserve the crunchiness. To serveLightly spread a spoonful of kefir on each plate. Place a spoonful of granola overtop, then a quenelle of yogurt ice cream. Using a microplane, grate the pollen over the ice cream. Drizzle a spoonful of mandaçaia native honey around the kefir. C on ne ct ion 199198 Cauliflower, passion fruit, and peanuts Cauliflower is beautiful and delicate, like a flower, yet can have a strong taste or no taste at all, depending on the way it’s prepared. I delight in its flexibility and in how well it combines with all kinds of ingredients and textures. Our cauliflower and bottarga dish (page xxx [Lamb, Moura pig, and the perfect carrot]) became well known, and diners have also really enjoyed our cauliflower and cashew milk dish. What I love about this recipe is the combination of the sour of the passion fruit, the umami that comes from the way we cook the cauliflower, and the unusual addition of peanuts, rarely used by chefs but which is one of the most incredible indigenous Brazilian ingredients. 50 g butter 400 g cauliflower 300 ml water 300 g butter 150 g cauliflower florets 200 ml whole (full-fat) milk 110 g passion fruit juice and seeds 100 g brown butter (beurre noisette) 120 ml whole (full-fat) milk 50 ml heavy (double) cream 300 g peanuts 350 ml whole (full-fat) milk 200 ml heavy (double) cream 50 ml rice vinegar pinch of salt 20 ml olive oil 2 g sage fleur de sel, for sprinkling 5 g bottarga For the cauliflower For the passion fruit fried milk Part 1 Part 2 For the peanut foam To serve Serves 4 CauliflowerChoose a large enough saucepan to fit the whole cauliflower. Heat the butter in the pan over high heat. Add the whole cauli- flower and fry on each side. Pour in 150 ml of water. Cover and cook for 10–15 minutes, until very soft but not falling apart. If all the water evaporates, add the remaining 150 ml. Remove the cauliflower from the pan and set it aside to cool. Cut into portions of 1 flower per person. Reserve the cooking liquid. Passion fruit fried milk Part 1 Heat the butter in a skillet over low heat. Add the cauliflower florets and cook over low heat for 1 hour. Drain, reserving the butter. In a large saucepan, bring 185 g of the cauliflower butter to a boil. Pour in the milk (this will cause a reaction, so it’s important that the pan is large) and bring to a boil, about 20 minutes. (In Brazil, we call this process “frying the milk.”) Turn off the heat and let the milk sit for 2 minutes, then add the passion fruit juice and seeds). Using an immersion blender, blend for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. StepBring the brown butter (beurre noisette) to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the milk and cream and “fry” (as in part 1) by allowing the mixture to come to a boil (about 15 minutes), then reducing the heat to low and letting it cook for 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the mixture sit for 1 minute. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Add the passion fruit mixture from part 1 and blend at high speed for 2 minutes, or until homog- enized and creamy. Peanut foam Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Spread the peanuts on a baking sheet and lightly toast in the oven for 10 minutes. Transfer the peanuts to a blender and blend with the milk until you have a homo- geneous paste. Pass through a sieve. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and gently simmer. Stir in the cream. Remove from the heat and add the vinegar and salt. While still warm, transfer to a blender and blend to mix well. Pass through the sieve again. Put the mixture in a siphon bottle with 2 charges. Put it in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours. Transfer the foam to a squeeze bottle. To serveHeat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the sage and fry for 2 minutes. Set aside. Pour the reserved cauliflower cooking liquid into a saucepan, add the cauli- flower, and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. You want the cauliflower florets to remain whole. Pour some passion fruit milk into each bowl, then place the cauliflower in the center and cover with the cauliflower liquid. Put some peanut foam next to the cauliflower and finish with a pinch of fleur de sel. Serve with tiny slices of bottarga and the fried sage. 2524 M us d olu pt ae d ip it a m re v olo rit r e d olu m en t f ug ia e rfe rs pe lit a q uis d olu pt at is e t lit u t m os . In tro du ct io n: W elc om e t o M an u 17 Phaidon Press Limited 2 Cooperage Yard London E15 2QR Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10012 phaidon.com First published 2023 © 2023 Phaidon Press Limited ISBN: 978 1 8386 6629 3 Author Manoella (Manu) Buffara is a chef based in Curitiba, Brazil. Since opening her restaurant Manu, she has consistently placed on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards and, in 2018, she received the prestigious “One to Watch” award at World’s 50 Best Restaurants. She participates in conferences and charities around the world, including the Basque Culinary World Prize. In 2023, Buffara will open the restaurant Ella in New York City. Key selling points From acclaimed Brazilian chef Manoella Buffara is this highly anticipated cookbook reflecting her personal journey and the story of her community, life, and land - Beyond the plate, Manu presents three chapters of personal essays: Araucaria, Melipona, and Passion Fruit - Features 60 never-before-shown recipes, with four evocative menu “collections” and a set of welcome drinks and petit-fours - The book includes forewords by French chef Dominique Crenn (based in California) and her mentor, Brazilian chef Alex Atala - The book features commissioned photographs that were taken across one year – of plated food, the land and sea that drive Buffara’s culinary vision, and the communities and ingredients that inspire her M an u R ec ip es a nd S to rie s fr om M y B ra zilP as sio n Fr uit 8584 It’s a Thursday morning in late January and I’m sitting at my kitchen table with my daughters, Helena and Maria, aged seven and five respec- tively. If I look to the right, I can see my gas stove just behind me and the light that comes through two latticed windows over the big sink. A little closer is a sizeable rectangular countertop where sev- eral people can work comfortably side by side, while three others can watch them from the other side, sitting on high stools. If I look to the left, I see our merle border collie, Snow, sitting outside by the glass sliding door leading to the barbecue and swimming pool area. I just had some coffee, and the girls are having fresh coconut water and French toast I prepared with leftover brioche from Manu. I love when they say I make the best French toast they’ve ever had. My secret is to blend the eggs using a stand mixer until emulsified, then add a few drops of vanilla extract, cinnamon, a pinch of salt, a little panettone mix, and milk. I soak the bread in the mixture and grill it in a skillet with butter. Sometimes I melt brown sugar with a little water and add chopped banana or strawberry on top. I do not have fresh fruit on this day, and they’ve asked for honey, as both like to pour it overtop. Helena prefers jataí honey, while Maria goes with tubuna. This morning, just to tease her sister, Maria lobs a large amount of jataí honey on Helena’s toast. Helena gives a little whimper of protest, and I have to calm them down. It’s early, and we are dressed for a tennis lesson. When I think about my life, I feel satisfied. We live in the house that I chose and could purchase thanks to my and my husband’s efforts. We are in the city I love, where my work is respected, and where I find the best ingredi- ents to cook with. I’m one of the few chefs in Curitiba who owns their restaurant. I don’t have significant debts, and many new adventures are on my horizon. I take my cup of hot coffee, open the sliding door, and go outside. It is heartwarming to have Snow greet me so enthusiastically. I turn right and look at my small vegetable garden, with the herbs I like to use for cooking. I always have parsley, three or four varieties of mint, rosemary, coriander, chives, and two kinds of basil. Tomatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, lettuce, spinach, carrots, and sometimes beets (beetroots) also grow there. It’s hot, and the manduri and jataí native bees from the boxes at the garden entrance are agitated. I identify with the bees, this big group of insects, the vast major- ity of which are female, that follow the strong and tireless queen. They spend the day looking for the best ingredients to produce wax, propolis, and honey. As bees visit plants seeking food, pollen catches on their bodies and passes between plants, fertilizing them—pollination. I see a clear turning point in my career. Shortly after I sold the bras- serie MB, I started stress-control training with Nilzo Andrade, a professional working with CEOs, athletes, chefs, and manag- ers on a program that combines yoga, breath training, and other stress-management techniques. We recognized that while I could multitask and juggle my passions, I needed to improve the way I managed my emotions and learn to channel my energies into the things that truly mattered to me. And I needed to hire someone to manage the cash at the restaurant. After some months of practice, I was able to transform the kitchen into a calm environment, and I learned how to prioritize what is essential. That was 2016, the year I became a mother, giving birth to Helena, and then Maria was born the following year. Today, Manu is the size I always wanted—a fine-dining restaurant with five tables that serves a tasting menu and is open for dinner only, from Wednesday to Saturday. As a restaurant, we built in three days of rest, even before the pandemic created the trend. I never work on Sundays. If I am in Brazil, this is the day I go to mass and play sports or cook for friends and family. Like the generations before me, I put all my heart into thinking about what to prepare, how to set the table, and the drinks I’ll serve for those I love and who are always there for me. I allocate two working days only to resolving all administrative con- cerns and contacting my suppliers. On Mondays and Tuesdays, I work from home, so I have more time with my daughters. From Wednesday to Saturday, I go to the restaurant. Even on more complicated days, I never return home later than 11 p.m. As soon as she finishes her French toast, Maria opens the glass door and comes to rescue me from my daydream. It’s time to start a new day. Our tennis class will begin in twenty minutes, and I will go to the restaurant in the afternoon to welcome my guests with a big smile. At the end of the night, I will say my goodbyes to each diner, thanking them for having chosen to eat my food at my restaurant. tracking test. Helena, Maria, and Snow Im ag ina tio n 141140 My husband makes an excellent barbecue. Sunday is usually when he does the main courses, and I take care of the starters and side dishes. Sometimes when he is preparing the meat, I grill vegetables and fruits. Grilled (griddled) watermelon is one of my favorites. I knew I would make a dish like this one day. Then the moment came that I received a very good fatty tuna loin. Tuna, lard, and watermelon 200 g fatty tuna loin 4 slices lard, each a 21/2-inch (6-cm) square 500 g watermelon 30 ml olive oil salt, to season 400 g Brazil nuts 600 ml water 200 ml coconut water 50 g emerina native bee honey salt, to season zest of 1 lemon For the tuna For the watermelon For the white sauce Serves 4 TunaCut the tuna loin into 4 pieces. Slice into 1/2- × 11/2-inch (1- × 4-cm) sashimi. Arrange on a J-cloth at room temperature. Place a lardo slice on each piece of tuna. WatermelonPreheat a grill to low (250°F/120°C). Cut the watermelon into 1/2- × 11/2-inch (1- × 4-cm) slices, brush with the olive oil, and place on the grill. Grill for 40 seconds on each side. White saucePlace the Brazil nuts, water, coconut water, and honey in a Thermomix and mix for 12 minutes. Season with salt and lemon zest. To serveSpread some sauce on each plate, arrange 3 slices of tuna with lard overtop, and then top with the grilled (griddled) watermelon slices. Th e F ie ld t o t he S ea 175174 I like the light pink meat and delicate flavor of the Hampshire Down lamb breed we buy from a local producer. It matches the color of beet (beetroot) so well that I decided to use them together. I use the whole lamb carcass, and use beet juice in lieu of wine to make the glace. Lamb and beet 100 g small beets (beetroot) 100 ml beet (beetroot) juice 50 ml cranberry juice 30 ml light soy sauce 5 g ground cumin 25 g cubed cold butter 80 ml Demi-Glace (page xxx [Lamb, onions, and peanuts]) 25 ml reserved Glazed Beets sauce (see here) 1 g fine pink salt 1 g sugar 180 g lamb T-bone steak, without bone (about 1 loin) olive oil, for brushing 20 g butter fleur de sel, for sprinkling For the glazed beets For the beef and beet salsa For the lamb To serve Serves 4 Glazed beets Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Wrap each beet (beetroot) in aluminum foil and bake for 30–50 minutes, until tender. Remove the beets from the oven and let cool. Peel the beets, then cut them in half. In a skillet, bring half of the beet juice, the cranberry juice, soy sauce, and cumin to a boil. Boil until reduced by a third. Add half of the cold butter, tilting the skillet to incorporate and emulsify it, until the mixture has thickened. Add the rest of the beet juice and the remaining butter, alternating them. Stir until well blended. Reserve 25 g of this sauce to make the beef and beet salsa. Reserve the beets in the skillet until needed. Beef and beet salsa Combine the demi-glace and glazed beets sauce in a saucepan and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes, or until reduced by half. Set aside until needed. LambIn a small bowl, combine the salt and sugar. Rub over the lamb, then place the lamb on a wire rack set over a baking sheet to cure, uncovered in the refrigerator, for 4 hours. Pat dry the lamb with paper towel. Heat a skillet over high heat. Brush the lamb with a little olive oil and sear on each side for 30 seconds. Add the butter to the skillet and cook the lamb for another 30 seconds on each side. Transfer to a wire rack to rest for 4 minutes. To serveHeat the beets with their sauce over medium heat, taking care not to scorch them. (If the sauce starts to curdle, emulsify again with a little beet juice.) Warm the beef and beet salsa. Cut the lamb into 4 pieces and arrange one on each plate, cut side up. Place a beet half beside each, along with a little beet sauce. Cover one end of the lamb loin with 1 tablespoon of salsa and finish with the fleur de sel. Serve immediately. C on ne ct ion 211210 Priprioca and passion fruit skin 1.0 Priprioca is an Amazonian root that is often used in perfumes, but it can also be cooked. The Indigenous people use this incredible root as a unique seasoning—it has a distinct flavor and smell. 500 ml whole (full-fat) milk 125 g sugar 8 ml corn syrup 5 g grated priprioca root 0.5 g baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) 0.01 g salt 150 g fresh passion fruit pulp 50 ml water 35 g tapioca pearls 100 g Yogurt Ice Cream (page xxx [Tucupi, Coconut, and Peanut]) For the priprioca For the passion To serve Serves 4 Priprioca dulce de leche Combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over low heat. Boil for about 4 hours, stirring frequently, until creamy and a light caramel color. Remove from the heat and let cool. Transfer to a container and refrigerate until needed. Passion fruit crisp In a small saucepan, combine the passion fruit pulp and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes. Strain through a chinois, discarding the seeds. Return the liquid to the saucepan, add the tapioca pearls, and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring constantly with a whisk. Strain again, then pass the liquid through a chinois and refrigerate until cool. Using a rubber spatula, spread the mixture on a Silpat and dehydrate for about 12 hours at 100°F (38°C), until crispy and glossy. To servePut a spoonful of the priprioca dulce de leche on each plate. Top with a quenelle of yogurt ice cream and scatter irregular pieces of passion fruit crisp overtop. M et am or ph os is 125124 I have fond memories of Guegué’s coconut cake. I revisited this recipe for a dessert at the restau- rant. In the original version, she used condensed milk to moisten the cake, but at the restaurant we use a peanut milk. And we serve it with yogurt ice cream. The punch comes from the tucupi salsa, which no one else in Brazil dares to use in a dessert. Tucupi, coconut, and peanuts 150 g roasted peanuts 500 ml water 25 g sugar 500 g plain (natural) yogurt 120 g quark cheese 100 g confectioners’ (icing) sugar 80 ml whole (full-fat) milk 50 ml heavy (double) cream 1 L tucupi 100 g cilantro (coriander) 100 g micro basil leaves 100 ml passion fruit juice 50 ml sour passion fruit juice 60 g tapioca pearls 100 ml whole (full-fat) milk 60 ml Coconut Milk (page xxx) 90 g eggs 120 g all-purpose (plain) flour 60 g room-temperature butter 100 g sugar 12 g baking powder 30 g brown sugar 35 ml light shoyu 7.5 ml liquid smoke 16 coconut ribbons (about 60 g) 60 g butter 6 g cilantro (coriander) leaves For the peanut milk For the yogurt ice cream For the tucupi salsa For the coconut cake For the coconut bacon To serve Serves 4 Peanut milkHydrate the peanuts in 300 ml of water for 24 hours. Drain the water, then transfer the peanuts to a Thermomix and add the remaining 200 ml of water and sugar. Mix on high speed for 15 minutes at 194°F (90°C). Set aside to cool. Yogurt ice cream Combine all the ingredients in a pacotizing beaker. Seal the beaker and freeze at -8°F (-22°C) for at least 24 hours. Mix 2 hours before use. Tucupi salsaHeat the tucupi in a saucepan over medium heat until warmed through. Remove from the heat, then stir in the cilantro (corian- der) and basil. Cover and set aside for 2 hours for the flavors to infuse. Strain the tucupi into another saucepan, add the regular and sour passion fruit juices and simmer over low heat, until the liquid has reduced to 400 g. Stir in the tapioca pearls, mixing with a whisk to thicken the stock. Strain the mixture into another saucepan and let cool. Heat the mixture over medium heat for 5–10 minutes to thicken. Using an immersion blender, blend the mixture until smooth. Refrigerate until needed. Coconut cake Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). In a bowl, whisk together the milk, coconut milk, and eggs to combine. In another bowl, sift the flour. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until doubled in volume. Reduce the speed and slowly incorporate the wet ingredients and the flour, alternating them. Add the baking powder and gently mix until fully incorporated. Pour the batter into a greased baking pan and bake for 25–30 minutes. Set aside to cool, then cut into 5/8-inch (1.5-cm) squares. Transfer the cake to a bowl and soak in the peanut milk to moisten. Refrigerate until needed. Coconut bacon In a mixing bowl, combine the brown sugar, shoyu, and liquid smoke and mix until the sugar has dissolved. Add the coconut ribbons and marinate for 30 minutes. Drain the ribbons. Melt the butter in a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the coconut ribbons and fry for 10 minutes, turning frequently, until completed dried out and crispy. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towel to cool. Keep the coconut ribbons in a dehydrator until needed. To servePut 25 ml of tucupi salsa in each bowl. Add a spoonful of mois- tened cake and top with a quenelle of yogurt ice cream. Place 2 slices of coconut bacon on top and finish with the cilantro (coriander) leaves. Serve immediately. Im ag ina tio n 145144 We use kefir as a fermentation starter at Manu, as my family has been doing since I was a toddler. I used it to compose this dessert that references the yogurt, honey, and granola that some people eat for breakfast. This recipe, though, has a few turn- ing points, using pollen instead of honey and a spe- cial granola. Kefir, granola, and pollen 30 g licuri 25 g rice flakes 15 g brown sugar 12 g chia seeds 12 g quinoa 12 g flaxseeds 10 g corn flakes 35 g honey 100 g kefir 100 g yogurt ice cream (page xxx [Tucupi, coconut, and peanuts]) 50 g frozen borá stingless bee pollen (needs to be frozen to grate) 20 g mandaçaia native bee honey For the granola To serve Serves 4 Granola Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C). In a bowl, carefully mix all the ingredients together. Pour the mixture on a Silpat and bake for at least 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Transfer to an airtight container to preserve the crunchiness. To serveLightly spread a spoonful of kefir on each plate. Place a spoonful of granola overtop, then a quenelle of yogurt ice cream. Using a microplane, grate the pollen over the ice cream. Drizzle a spoonful of mandaçaia native honey around the kefir. C on ne ct ion 199198 Cauliflower, passion fruit, and peanuts Cauliflower is beautiful and delicate, like a flower, yet can have a strong taste or no taste at all, depending on the way it’s prepared. I delight in its flexibility and in how well it combines with all kinds of ingredients and textures. Our cauliflower and bottarga dish (page xxx [Lamb, Moura pig, and the perfect carrot]) became well known, and diners have also really enjoyed our cauliflower and cashew milk dish. What I love about this recipe is the combination of the sour of the passion fruit, the umami that comes from the way we cook the cauliflower, and the unusual addition of peanuts, rarely used by chefs but which is one of the most incredible indigenous Brazilian ingredients. 50 g butter 400 g cauliflower 300 ml water 300 g butter 150 g cauliflower florets 200 ml whole (full-fat) milk 110 g passion fruit juice and seeds 100 g brown butter (beurre noisette) 120 ml whole (full-fat) milk 50 ml heavy (double) cream 300 g peanuts 350 ml whole (full-fat) milk 200 ml heavy (double) cream 50 ml rice vinegar pinch of salt 20 ml olive oil 2 g sage fleur de sel, for sprinkling 5 g bottarga For the cauliflower For the passion fruit fried milk Part 1 Part 2 For the peanut foam To serve Serves 4 CauliflowerChoose a large enough saucepan to fit the whole cauliflower. Heat the butter in the pan over high heat. Add the whole cauli- flower and fry on each side. Pour in 150 ml of water. Cover and cook for 10–15 minutes, until very soft but not falling apart. If all the water evaporates, add the remaining 150 ml. Remove the cauliflower from the pan and set it aside to cool. Cut into portions of 1 flower per person. Reserve the cooking liquid. Passion fruit fried milk Part 1 Heat the butter in a skillet over low heat. Add the cauliflower florets and cook over low heat for 1 hour. Drain, reserving the butter. In a large saucepan, bring 185 g of the cauliflower butter to a boil. Pour in the milk (this will cause a reaction, so it’s important that the pan is large) and bring to a boil, about 20 minutes. (In Brazil, we call this process “frying the milk.”) Turn off the heat and let the milk sit for 2 minutes, then add the passion fruit juice and seeds). Using an immersion blender, blend for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. StepBring the brown butter (beurre noisette) to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the milk and cream and “fry” (as in part 1) by allowing the mixture to come to a boil (about 15 minutes), then reducing the heat to low and letting it cook for 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the mixture sit for 1 minute. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Add the passion fruit mixture from part 1 and blend at high speed for 2 minutes, or until homog- enized and creamy. Peanut foam Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Spread the peanuts on a baking sheet and lightly toast in the oven for 10 minutes. Transfer the peanuts to a blender and blend with the milk until you have a homo- geneous paste. Pass through a sieve. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan and gently simmer. Stir in the cream. Remove from the heat and add the vinegar and salt. While still warm, transfer to a blender and blend to mix well. Pass through the sieve again. Put the mixture in a siphon bottle with 2 charges. Put it in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours. Transfer the foam to a squeeze bottle. To serveHeat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the sage and fry for 2 minutes. Set aside. Pour the reserved cauliflower cooking liquid into a saucepan, add the cauli- flower, and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. You want the cauliflower florets to remain whole. Pour some passion fruit milk into each bowl, then place the cauliflower in the center and cover with the cauliflower liquid. Put some peanut foam next to the cauliflower and finish with a pinch of fleur de sel. Serve with tiny slices of bottarga and the fried sage. 2524 M us d olu pt ae d ip it a m re v olo rit r e d olu m en t f ug ia e rfe rs pe lit a q uis d olu pt at is e t lit u t m os . In tro du ct io n: W elc om e t o M an u 17 Phaidon Press Limited 2 Cooperage Yard London E15 2QR Phaidon Press Inc. 65 Bleecker Street New York, NY 10012 phaidon.com First published 2023 © 2023 Phaidon Press Limited ISBN: 978 1 8386 6629 3 Author Manoella (Manu) Buffara is a chef based in Curitiba, Brazil. Since opening her restaurant Manu, she has consistently placed on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards and, in 2018, she received the prestigious “One to Watch” award at World’s 50 Best Restaurants. She participates in conferences and charities around the world, including the Basque Culinary World Prize. In 2023, Buffara will open the restaurant Ella in New York City. Key selling points From acclaimed Brazilian chef Manoella Buffara is this highly anticipated cookbook reflecting her personal journey and the story of her community, life, and land - Beyond the plate, Manu presents three chapters of personal essays: Araucaria, Melipona, and Passion Fruit - Features 60 never-before-shown recipes, with four evocative menu “collections” and a set of welcome drinks and petit-fours - The book includes forewords by French chef Dominique Crenn (based in California) and her mentor, Brazilian chef Alex Atala - The book features commissioned photographs that were taken across one year – of plated food, the land and sea that drive Buffara’s culinary vision, and the communities and ingredients that inspire her M an u R ec ip es a nd S to rie s fr om M y B ra zilNext >