NANC Y SINGLET ON HA CHISU J APAN • THE VE GETARIAN COOKBOOKINTRODUCTION 009 HISTORY OF JAPANESE VEGE TARIAN CUISINE 012 PREPARING AND E ATING JAPANESE CUISINE 015 THE RECIPES 020 INGREDIENTS 3 42 KITCHEN TOOLS AND SERVING IMPLEMENTS 352 RESOURCES 35 4 REFERENCES 355 INDE X 356INTRODUCTION 009 HISTORY OF JAPANESE VEGE TARIAN CUISINE 012 PREPARING AND E ATING JAPANESE CUISINE 015 THE RECIPES 020 INGREDIENTS 3 42 KITCHEN TOOLS AND SERVING IMPLEMENTS 352 RESOURCES 35 4 REFERENCES 355 INDE X 356S H I KO M I PREP KO NB U 020 A E MO NO DRESSED NAT TO 0 68 A G E MO NO DEEP-FRIED M O UNTAIN VEG E TAB LES 122 ZE N S AI BEFORE THE ME AL JAPANES E TO FU 0 40 S U NO MO NO VINEGARED RI C E VINEG AR 09 6 M U S H I MO NO & N I MO NO STE AMED & SIMMERED KOYAS AN 16 4 IT A M E M ON O & Y A K I MO NO STIR-FRIED & GRILLED HO N MIRIN 19 4 HAN M O N O RICE O K AY U: P O RRID G E TO HE AL YOUR BODY AND S OUL 266 K A NMI SWEE TS JAPANES E S U G AR 320 S H I R U MO NO SOUPS B UILD IN G A BOWL O F MI S O S O UP 23 4 TSU K E M O N O & HO Z O NS HO KU PICKLES & PRESERVES S UN-D RIED VEG E TAB LES 29 6S H I KO M I PREP KO NB U 020 A E MO NO DRESSED NAT TO 0 68 A G E MO NO DEEP-FRIED M O UNTAIN VEG E TAB LES 122 ZE N S AI BEFORE THE ME AL JAPANES E TO FU 0 40 S U NO MO NO VINEGARED RI C E VINEG AR 09 6 M U S H I MO NO & N I MO NO STE AMED & SIMMERED KOYAS AN 16 4 IT A M E M ON O & Y A K I MO NO STIR-FRIED & GRILLED HO N MIRIN 19 4 HAN M O N O RICE O K AY U: P O RRID G E TO HE AL YOUR BODY AND S OUL 266 K A NMI SWEE TS JAPANES E S U G AR 320 S H I R U MO NO SOUPS B UILD IN G A BOWL O F MI S O S O UP 23 4 TSU K E M O N O & HO Z O NS HO KU PICKLES & PRESERVES S UN-D RIED VEG E TAB LES 29 6NAMASU-STUFFED YUZU POTS 118 酢 の物 VINEGARED NAMASU-STUFFED YUZU POTS YUZU-KAMA KOUHAKU NAMASU 柚釜紅白なます Preparation time: 40 minutes Serves: 4 V DF GF NF • 4 medium yuzu or rounded lemons (4½ oz/130 g each) • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar • 2 tablespoons Japanese light brown cane sugar (kibizato, see page 342) or organic granulated sugar • 1⅛ teaspoons fine sea salt • 9 oz (255 g) daikon, peeled • 3 oz (85 g) carrot, peeled Gorgeously simple, hollowed- out yuzu shells make a stunning presentation for namasu—the traditional dish of julienned daikon and carrot in sweet vinegar. These can be made ahead of time and stored in the fridge before serving. - Cut off about 10 percent of the yuzu at the stem end and scoop out the insides with a grapefruit spoon. Squeeze to extract the juice, strain, and set aside. Scrape the pith off the cut-off top portions and finely julienne the yellow zest. Set aside. In a medium bowl, mix the vinegar, 1 tablespoon of the yuzu juice, the sugar, and 1 teaspoon of the salt to dissolve. Cut the daikon and carrot into fine julienne 2 inches (5 cm) long. Massage with the remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt, then rinse off the salt in plenty of cold water. Drain in a wire-mesh sieve and pat dry in a clean tea towel. Fold the daikon and carrot into the vinegar mixture and mix well until evenly distributed. Spoon the mixture into the yuzu pots and garnish with the yuzu zest.NAMASU-STUFFED YUZU POTS 118 酢 の物 VINEGARED NAMASU-STUFFED YUZU POTS YUZU-KAMA KOUHAKU NAMASU 柚釜紅白なます Preparation time: 40 minutes Serves: 4 V DF GF NF • 4 medium yuzu or rounded lemons (4½ oz/130 g each) • 2 tablespoons rice vinegar • 2 tablespoons Japanese light brown cane sugar (kibizato, see page 342) or organic granulated sugar • 1⅛ teaspoons fine sea salt • 9 oz (255 g) daikon, peeled • 3 oz (85 g) carrot, peeled Gorgeously simple, hollowed- out yuzu shells make a stunning presentation for namasu—the traditional dish of julienned daikon and carrot in sweet vinegar. These can be made ahead of time and stored in the fridge before serving. - Cut off about 10 percent of the yuzu at the stem end and scoop out the insides with a grapefruit spoon. Squeeze to extract the juice, strain, and set aside. Scrape the pith off the cut-off top portions and finely julienne the yellow zest. Set aside. In a medium bowl, mix the vinegar, 1 tablespoon of the yuzu juice, the sugar, and 1 teaspoon of the salt to dissolve. Cut the daikon and carrot into fine julienne 2 inches (5 cm) long. Massage with the remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt, then rinse off the salt in plenty of cold water. Drain in a wire-mesh sieve and pat dry in a clean tea towel. Fold the daikon and carrot into the vinegar mixture and mix well until evenly distributed. Spoon the mixture into the yuzu pots and garnish with the yuzu zest.TARO, SOBA GAKI, AND CELERY LEAF TEMPURA TARO, SOBA GAKI, AND CELERY LEAF TEMPURA SATO IMO, SOBA GAKI TO SERORI NO HA TEN 里いもとそばがき、セロリの 葉天 Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves: 4, generously V DF NF • Rice washing liquid or cold water • 8 very small taro roots (2 oz/25 g each), peeled • 1 cup (4¼ oz/120 g) Japanese buckwheat flour (sobako, see page 342) or French “light” buckwheat flour • Generous 3/4 cup (6¼ fl oz/185 ml) boiling water • 2 tablespoons shiratamako (see page 342) • ¾ cup (80 g) sifted unbleached all-purpose (plain) flour • Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), peanut, or safflower, for deep frying • 4 large pieces celery tops (thin stalks with plenty of leaves), 3½ inches (9 cm) long • ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, for serving When approaching tempura, it is always important to think about the textures and flavor profiles of what you will be frying and adding to the plate. And, of course, seasonality comes into play. This combination is particularly well balanced with the slightly viscous, yet resilient texture of the taro to the “mochi- mochi” soft soba gaki, and finally the bitter yet bright celery leaves. The light kiss of batter gives each piece an ethereal crispness that somehow enhances their distinct textures. Simmering taro (or daikon) in rice washing liquid will help them lose any natural bitterness and will preserve their white flesh. If you do not have any rice washing liquid handy, just use cold water. - Fill a medium saucepan with rice washing water or cold water and add the taro. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, adjust to a gentle simmer, and cook until a bamboo skewer can be easily inserted into the centers, 3–5 minutes. Drain and set aside to air dry. Fill the bottom of a double boiler halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the soba flour to the top of the double boiler (preferably one with a rounded bottom) and stir the soba flour continuously with a wooden spoon until “cooked” and hot to the touch, about 5 minutes. Remove the top of the double boiler onto your work surface and add the boiling water all at once. Stir vigorously with the wooden spoon, smashing and beating the mixture until well combined and completely smooth. Roll immediately into 12 small balls (soba gaki). In a medium bowl, whisk 1⅓ cups (10½ fl oz/325 ml) cold water into the shiratamako until smooth. Quickly whisk in the flour until incorporated but avoid overmixing. In a large high-sided sauté pan, heat 1¼ inches (3 cm) of the oil over medium-high heat until about 340°F (170°C). To check the oil temperature, flick a few drops of batter into the oil; the batter should sink to the bottom of the pan, then immediately bounce back up to the surface, and there will be a few medium-sized bubbles. Dip the celery tops in the batter, shake off, and slide into the oil. Fry, turning, until lightly golden on all sides, about 60 seconds. Drain on a rack set over a pan to catch the drips. Roll the taro in the batter, shake off, and fry for about 90 seconds, turning for even coloring. Drain on the rack next to the celery. Drop the soba gaki into the batter, roll around to coat evenly, then slip into the oil. Fry until lightly colored, about 60 seconds. Drain briefly. Line a plate with a folded-up piece of tempura blotting paper and arrange the taro, soba gaki, and celery tops in an attractive fashion. Spoon the salt in a small mound on a corner of the paper and serve hot. 168 揚げ 物 DEEP-FRIEDTARO, SOBA GAKI, AND CELERY LEAF TEMPURA TARO, SOBA GAKI, AND CELERY LEAF TEMPURA SATO IMO, SOBA GAKI TO SERORI NO HA TEN 里いもとそばがき、セロリの 葉天 Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Serves: 4, generously V DF NF • Rice washing liquid or cold water • 8 very small taro roots (2 oz/25 g each), peeled • 1 cup (4¼ oz/120 g) Japanese buckwheat flour (sobako, see page 342) or French “light” buckwheat flour • Generous 3/4 cup (6¼ fl oz/185 ml) boiling water • 2 tablespoons shiratamako (see page 342) • ¾ cup (80 g) sifted unbleached all-purpose (plain) flour • Neutral oil, such as canola (rapeseed), peanut, or safflower, for deep frying • 4 large pieces celery tops (thin stalks with plenty of leaves), 3½ inches (9 cm) long • ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, for serving When approaching tempura, it is always important to think about the textures and flavor profiles of what you will be frying and adding to the plate. And, of course, seasonality comes into play. This combination is particularly well balanced with the slightly viscous, yet resilient texture of the taro to the “mochi- mochi” soft soba gaki, and finally the bitter yet bright celery leaves. The light kiss of batter gives each piece an ethereal crispness that somehow enhances their distinct textures. Simmering taro (or daikon) in rice washing liquid will help them lose any natural bitterness and will preserve their white flesh. If you do not have any rice washing liquid handy, just use cold water. - Fill a medium saucepan with rice washing water or cold water and add the taro. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, adjust to a gentle simmer, and cook until a bamboo skewer can be easily inserted into the centers, 3–5 minutes. Drain and set aside to air dry. Fill the bottom of a double boiler halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the soba flour to the top of the double boiler (preferably one with a rounded bottom) and stir the soba flour continuously with a wooden spoon until “cooked” and hot to the touch, about 5 minutes. Remove the top of the double boiler onto your work surface and add the boiling water all at once. Stir vigorously with the wooden spoon, smashing and beating the mixture until well combined and completely smooth. Roll immediately into 12 small balls (soba gaki). In a medium bowl, whisk 1⅓ cups (10½ fl oz/325 ml) cold water into the shiratamako until smooth. Quickly whisk in the flour until incorporated but avoid overmixing. In a large high-sided sauté pan, heat 1¼ inches (3 cm) of the oil over medium-high heat until about 340°F (170°C). To check the oil temperature, flick a few drops of batter into the oil; the batter should sink to the bottom of the pan, then immediately bounce back up to the surface, and there will be a few medium-sized bubbles. Dip the celery tops in the batter, shake off, and slide into the oil. Fry, turning, until lightly golden on all sides, about 60 seconds. Drain on a rack set over a pan to catch the drips. Roll the taro in the batter, shake off, and fry for about 90 seconds, turning for even coloring. Drain on the rack next to the celery. Drop the soba gaki into the batter, roll around to coat evenly, then slip into the oil. Fry until lightly colored, about 60 seconds. Drain briefly. Line a plate with a folded-up piece of tempura blotting paper and arrange the taro, soba gaki, and celery tops in an attractive fashion. Spoon the salt in a small mound on a corner of the paper and serve hot. 168 揚げ 物 DEEP-FRIEDNext >