67 To ta lly p as te d I don’t have too many non-negotiables when cooking. People are mostly appalled by my slapdash approach, but one steadfast rule is the importance of dry-frying and grinding your spices. It’s a crucial step that releases a bounty of oil (and flavour). It’s the thing that will make this chermoula truly sing. The shelf life of this paste is a few weeks, so if you are uncertain how much you will use, opt for a smaller quantity. Chermoula Using a mortar and pestle, grind the coriander and cumin. (See above regarding non-negotiables.) Rinse the preserved lemon, then scrape off and discard the pulp. Transfer the peel to a blender or food processor with the remaining ingredients and blend until combined but still a little chunky. Store in a jar in the fridge for a few weeks. You could stretch it further; I often have and everyone has lived to see another day. To make 250 g (9 oz/2 cups) 1 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 1 preserved lemon, or to taste 1 cup flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 1 cup coriander (cilantro) leaves 375 ml (12½ fl oz/1½ cups) extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tsp sumac 4 tsp aleppo pepper 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika 2 tsp salt 1 tsp turmeric To make 500 g (1 lb 2 oz/4 cups) 2 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 2 preserved lemons, or to taste 2 cups flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 2 cups coriander (cilantro) leaves 750 ml (25½ fl oz/3 cups) extra-virgin olive oil 16 garlic cloves, peeled 4 tsp sumac 8 tsp aleppo pepper 4 tsp sweet smoked paprika 4 tsp salt 2 tsp turmeric To make 750 g (1 lb 11 oz/6 cups) 3 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 3 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 3 preserved lemons, or to taste 3 cups flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 3 cups coriander (cilantro) leaves 1.25 litres (42 fl oz/5 cups) extra-virgin olive oil 24 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tbsp sumac 4 tbsp aleppo pepper 2 tbsp sweet smoked paprika 2 tbsp salt 1 tbsp turmeric HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 67HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 6731/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 amHG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 66HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 6631/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt66Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt6767 To ta lly p as te d I don’t have too many non-negotiables when cooking. People are mostly appalled by my slapdash approach, but one steadfast rule is the importance of dry-frying and grinding your spices. It’s a crucial step that releases a bounty of oil (and flavour). It’s the thing that will make this chermoula truly sing. The shelf life of this paste is a few weeks, so if you are uncertain how much you will use, opt for a smaller quantity. Chermoula Using a mortar and pestle, grind the coriander and cumin. (See above regarding non-negotiables.) Rinse the preserved lemon, then scrape off and discard the pulp. Transfer the peel to a blender or food processor with the remaining ingredients and blend until combined but still a little chunky. Store in a jar in the fridge for a few weeks. You could stretch it further; I often have and everyone has lived to see another day. To make 250 g (9 oz/2 cups) 1 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 1 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 1 preserved lemon, or to taste 1 cup flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 1 cup coriander (cilantro) leaves 375 ml (12½ fl oz/1½ cups) extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tsp sumac 4 tsp aleppo pepper 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika 2 tsp salt 1 tsp turmeric To make 500 g (1 lb 2 oz/4 cups) 2 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 2 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 2 preserved lemons, or to taste 2 cups flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 2 cups coriander (cilantro) leaves 750 ml (25½ fl oz/3 cups) extra-virgin olive oil 16 garlic cloves, peeled 4 tsp sumac 8 tsp aleppo pepper 4 tsp sweet smoked paprika 4 tsp salt 2 tsp turmeric To make 750 g (1 lb 11 oz/6 cups) 3 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 3 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant 3 preserved lemons, or to taste 3 cups flat-leaf (Italian) parsley leaves 3 cups coriander (cilantro) leaves 1.25 litres (42 fl oz/5 cups) extra-virgin olive oil 24 garlic cloves, peeled 2 tbsp sumac 4 tbsp aleppo pepper 2 tbsp sweet smoked paprika 2 tbsp salt 1 tbsp turmeric HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 67HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 6731/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 amHG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 66HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 6631/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt66Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt6777 Ch er m o ul a HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 77HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 7731/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 am 76 To ta lly p a ste d 4 slices white bread, crusts removed 250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) milk 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) minced (ground) lamb 1 small onion, peeled and diced 4 tablespoons Chermoula (page 67) 1 x 200 g (7 oz) block haloumi, grated 3/4 cup chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 large organic free-range egg, lightly beaten extra-virgin olive oil, for frying coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to serve Sauce 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, finely diced 3 tablespoons Chermoula 5 garlic cloves, crushed 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) tinned crushed tomatoes 1 lemon, thinly sliced 60 g (2 oz/¼ cup) tomato paste (concentrated purée) 2 teaspoons brown sugar 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) chicken stock Make the meatballs by soaking the bread in the milk until soft. Squeeze the bread to remove any residual milk. Add the soft bread to a large bowl with the beef, onion, chermoula, haloumi, parsley, garlic and egg. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then get your hands in there. Massage the ingredients until fully incorporated. Roll the mixture into golf ball-sized meatballs and set aside on a tray until you have rolled all of the beef mixture. In a heavy-based large frying pan or saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and, working in batches, sear the meatballs all over until golden, about 5 minutes. Gently remove from the pan and set aside. Make the sauce in the same pan by adding the olive oil. Once hot, sauté the onions until soft and translucent. Add the chermoula and garlic and cook for another 1–2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, lemon, tomato paste and brown sugar and give everything a really good stir. Add the stock and simmer for 10–15 minutes or until the sauce has begun to thicken and reduce slightly. Place the seared meatballs in the sauce and continue to cook for 40 minutes or until the sauce has thickened and the flavours have intensified. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Scatter with the coriander when ready to serve. Sometimes you just can’t beat a bit of meat and sauce. The chermoula and lemon give this such a glorious unexpected and bright twist. It does need a bit of time on the stove, so it’s a cook-it-on-the-weekend to eat-sometime- during-the-week kinda meal. It also does marvellously well for a double- batch-and-freeze scenario. Serves 6 Chermoula and haloumi lamb meatballs with lemon HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 76HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 7631/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt76Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt7777 Ch er m o ul a HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 77HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 7731/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 am 76 To ta lly p a ste d 4 slices white bread, crusts removed 250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) milk 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) minced (ground) lamb 1 small onion, peeled and diced 4 tablespoons Chermoula (page 67) 1 x 200 g (7 oz) block haloumi, grated 3/4 cup chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 large organic free-range egg, lightly beaten extra-virgin olive oil, for frying coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to serve Sauce 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 onions, finely diced 3 tablespoons Chermoula 5 garlic cloves, crushed 800 g (1 lb 12 oz) tinned crushed tomatoes 1 lemon, thinly sliced 60 g (2 oz/¼ cup) tomato paste (concentrated purée) 2 teaspoons brown sugar 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) chicken stock Make the meatballs by soaking the bread in the milk until soft. Squeeze the bread to remove any residual milk. Add the soft bread to a large bowl with the beef, onion, chermoula, haloumi, parsley, garlic and egg. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then get your hands in there. Massage the ingredients until fully incorporated. Roll the mixture into golf ball-sized meatballs and set aside on a tray until you have rolled all of the beef mixture. In a heavy-based large frying pan or saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and, working in batches, sear the meatballs all over until golden, about 5 minutes. Gently remove from the pan and set aside. Make the sauce in the same pan by adding the olive oil. Once hot, sauté the onions until soft and translucent. Add the chermoula and garlic and cook for another 1–2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, lemon, tomato paste and brown sugar and give everything a really good stir. Add the stock and simmer for 10–15 minutes or until the sauce has begun to thicken and reduce slightly. Place the seared meatballs in the sauce and continue to cook for 40 minutes or until the sauce has thickened and the flavours have intensified. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Scatter with the coriander when ready to serve. Sometimes you just can’t beat a bit of meat and sauce. The chermoula and lemon give this such a glorious unexpected and bright twist. It does need a bit of time on the stove, so it’s a cook-it-on-the-weekend to eat-sometime- during-the-week kinda meal. It also does marvellously well for a double- batch-and-freeze scenario. Serves 6 Chermoula and haloumi lamb meatballs with lemon HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 76HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 7631/10/22 8:22 am31/10/22 8:22 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt76Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt77151 Sa uc e o f in spir at io n Whisk the sugar, butter, lemon zest and juice, and vanilla in a saucepan over medium–low heat. Once incorporated, turn the heat to low and whisk in the whole eggs and yolks. Whisk continually until thickened and the curd coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a sieve and store in a jar until ready to use. Any leftovers will last up to 3 weeks in the fridge. Lemon curd is something you should never buy in a jar. I’ll bend this rule if you buy it from a school fete or hospital fundraiser where a home cook has whisked their forearm away in the name of charity. Otherwise, nothing compares to a bag of lemons, some butter, sugar, plenty of eggs and a little bit of your time. Lemon curd can form a multitude of desserts; it can be slathered across a chicken. It can be served at breakfast as well as the celebratory end to a great meal. A good Lemon curd is everything. Lemon curd To make 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) 170 g (6 oz/2/3 cup) caster sugar 80 g (23/4 oz) chilled unsalted butter zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons 1/2 tbsp vanilla bean paste 2 organic free-range eggs, plus 2 egg yolks To make 1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) 340 g (12 oz/11/3 cup) caster sugar 160 g (51/2 oz) chilled unsalted butter zest and juice of 4 unwaxed lemons 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste 4 organic free-range eggs, plus 4 egg yolks To make 1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) 510 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster (superfine) sugar 240 g (9 oz) chilled unsalted butter, cut into cubes zest and juice of 6 unwaxed lemons 2 tbsp vanilla bean paste 6 organic free-range eggs, plus 6 egg yolks HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 151HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15131/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am custom fractions method 1 /8 1 /4 1 /2 3 /4 HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 150HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15031/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt150Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt151151 Sa uc e o f in spir at io n Whisk the sugar, butter, lemon zest and juice, and vanilla in a saucepan over medium–low heat. Once incorporated, turn the heat to low and whisk in the whole eggs and yolks. Whisk continually until thickened and the curd coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a sieve and store in a jar until ready to use. Any leftovers will last up to 3 weeks in the fridge. Lemon curd is something you should never buy in a jar. I’ll bend this rule if you buy it from a school fete or hospital fundraiser where a home cook has whisked their forearm away in the name of charity. Otherwise, nothing compares to a bag of lemons, some butter, sugar, plenty of eggs and a little bit of your time. Lemon curd can form a multitude of desserts; it can be slathered across a chicken. It can be served at breakfast as well as the celebratory end to a great meal. A good Lemon curd is everything. Lemon curd To make 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) 170 g (6 oz/2/3 cup) caster sugar 80 g (23/4 oz) chilled unsalted butter zest and juice of 2 unwaxed lemons 1/2 tbsp vanilla bean paste 2 organic free-range eggs, plus 2 egg yolks To make 1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) 340 g (12 oz/11/3 cup) caster sugar 160 g (51/2 oz) chilled unsalted butter zest and juice of 4 unwaxed lemons 1 tbsp vanilla bean paste 4 organic free-range eggs, plus 4 egg yolks To make 1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) 510 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster (superfine) sugar 240 g (9 oz) chilled unsalted butter, cut into cubes zest and juice of 6 unwaxed lemons 2 tbsp vanilla bean paste 6 organic free-range eggs, plus 6 egg yolks HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 151HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15131/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am custom fractions method 1 /8 1 /4 1 /2 3 /4 HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 150HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15031/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt150Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt151157 Le m o n cur d HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 157HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15731/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am 156 Sa uce o f in sp ir a tio n 180 g (6½ oz/1¾ cups) ground almonds 75 g (2¾ oz/½ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour 1/2 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature 165 g (6 oz/¾ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 55 g (2 oz/¼ cup, firmly packed) brown sugar 3 large organic free-range eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste zest of 1 unwaxed lemon 250 g (9 oz) blackberries 125 g (4½ oz/½ cup) firm ricotta 250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) Lemon curd (page 151) icing (confectioners’) sugar, to dust Preheat the oven to 180˚C (360˚F). Grease and line a 21 x 11 x 7 cm (81/4 x 41/4 x 23/4 in) loaf (bar) tin with baking paper and leave an overhang on each side so you can easily remove the cake. Whisk together the ground almonds, flour, baking powder, cinammon and a pinch of salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and both sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes – please don’t rush this step. Fluffy, magic crumb-creating glory happens here. Scrape down the bowl. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, then mix in the vanilla and lemon zest. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture. Beat until a uniform and light batter has been achieved – don’t beat for more than a few minutes. Fold half the blackberries through and dollop the ricotta and 3 tablespoons of the lemon curd in – you don’t want to mix this through, rough lumps and bumps and blobs is what we want here. Scrape into the prepared tin and dollop about half the remaining lemon curd over the top of the batter. Bake in the oven for about 50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out not clean, but with a few moist crumbs attached. Let cool in the tin for a good 15–20 minutes before gently lifting the cake out and transferring to a wire rack to cool. Top with the remaining lemon curd and a scattering of the remaining blackberries. Dust with icing sugar to finish. Do not leave any behind. This wants to be sturdy, like a pound cake, but is actually soft and vulnerable, barely holding itself together. Cut into thick wedges, not elegant fine slices. This is not a cake for the dainty. Serves 6–8 Summer almond loaf cake with lemon curd, ricotta and blackberries HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 156HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15631/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt156Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt157157 Le m o n cur d HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 157HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15731/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am 156 Sa uce o f in sp ir a tio n 180 g (6½ oz/1¾ cups) ground almonds 75 g (2¾ oz/½ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour 1/2 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature 165 g (6 oz/¾ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 55 g (2 oz/¼ cup, firmly packed) brown sugar 3 large organic free-range eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste zest of 1 unwaxed lemon 250 g (9 oz) blackberries 125 g (4½ oz/½ cup) firm ricotta 250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) Lemon curd (page 151) icing (confectioners’) sugar, to dust Preheat the oven to 180˚C (360˚F). Grease and line a 21 x 11 x 7 cm (81/4 x 41/4 x 23/4 in) loaf (bar) tin with baking paper and leave an overhang on each side so you can easily remove the cake. Whisk together the ground almonds, flour, baking powder, cinammon and a pinch of salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and both sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes – please don’t rush this step. Fluffy, magic crumb-creating glory happens here. Scrape down the bowl. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition, then mix in the vanilla and lemon zest. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture. Beat until a uniform and light batter has been achieved – don’t beat for more than a few minutes. Fold half the blackberries through and dollop the ricotta and 3 tablespoons of the lemon curd in – you don’t want to mix this through, rough lumps and bumps and blobs is what we want here. Scrape into the prepared tin and dollop about half the remaining lemon curd over the top of the batter. Bake in the oven for about 50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out not clean, but with a few moist crumbs attached. Let cool in the tin for a good 15–20 minutes before gently lifting the cake out and transferring to a wire rack to cool. Top with the remaining lemon curd and a scattering of the remaining blackberries. Dust with icing sugar to finish. Do not leave any behind. This wants to be sturdy, like a pound cake, but is actually soft and vulnerable, barely holding itself together. Cut into thick wedges, not elegant fine slices. This is not a cake for the dainty. Serves 6–8 Summer almond loaf cake with lemon curd, ricotta and blackberries HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 156HG_FromSaltToJam_04 PAGES_FINAL_SI.indd 15631/10/22 8:23 am31/10/22 8:23 am Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt156Salt to Jam_Txt 22-11-08TEXT BLACKBlackYellowMagentaCyan txt157Next >