< PreviousBig Plates 8485 Ellie’s Table SERVES 4 250 g (9 oz) skinless flathead fillets 300 g (101/2 oz) skinless trout fillets 2 tablespoons roughly chopped mint, plus extra to serve 35 g (11/4 oz/3/4 cup) roughly chopped coriander (cilantro), plus extra to serve 2 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, plus extra to serve 1/2 green chilli, seeds left in, finely diced grated zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar and pestle 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons for frying labneh to serve (either store bought or see page 224) a pinch of sumac to serve 4 lemon cheeks to serve extra-virgin olive oil to serve lemon juice to serve Mince the fish by hand with a sharp knife or pulse in a food processor very briefly until you have a coarse texture that is not at all smooth – you want to retain some texture in these fish cakes. Put the minced fish in a wide bowl and add all the ingredients except the labneh, sumac and lemon cheeks. Mix by hand until everything is incorporated and the fish takes on a slightly yellow, spiced colour. You will want to taste the mixture at this point to make sure that the fish cakes are well seasoned. Heat the 3 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a wide, deep frying pan over a medium–high heat. Roll a small portion of the fish mixture into a ball and sear it in the warmed pan. Remove the pan from the heat. Taste for salt, pepper and acidity from the lemon zest, and add more of any of these ingredients to the mixture if you think it needs it. Form the mixture into balls about the size of a golf ball and flatten them slightly so that they take on a patty shape. Reheat the oil in the frying pan over a medium–high heat. When the oil is hot, fry the fish cakes in batches until golden, about 2 minutes each side. Layer the labneh onto a serving plate and top with a pinch of sumac. Place the fish cakes on top of the labneh, and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Scatter with a handful more of each of the fresh herbs, then put the lemon cheeks between the fish cakes and serve while hot. Fish cakes with green herbs and labneh Fish balls, fish cakes and fish fritters are common in Jewish cuisine. I recently ate a dreamy plate of them cooked by a Jewish woman of Syrian-Lebanese heritage at her restaurant in Tel Aviv. They were served with lots of herbs and yoghurt, reminding me how much I love fritters made with fish. The recipe below uses trout and flathead, but flathead and fresh sardines also pair well. Ultimately you should choose the two types of fish that look freshest at your fishmonger, ideally one a firm and one an oily fish. I like eating these fish cakes with labneh or plain sour yoghurt, but you could also form the fish mixture into balls and poach them instead of the fillets in the Chraime sauce (page 92). Either way, serve with a bite of crisp salad and pickled chillies on the side and you will forget everything but the decadent flavours rolling around your mouth. HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 84-85HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 84-8516/1/2024 9:53 am16/1/2024 9:53 amBig Plates 8485 Ellie’s Table SERVES 4 250 g (9 oz) skinless flathead fillets 300 g (101/2 oz) skinless trout fillets 2 tablespoons roughly chopped mint, plus extra to serve 35 g (11/4 oz/3/4 cup) roughly chopped coriander (cilantro), plus extra to serve 2 tablespoons roughly chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, plus extra to serve 1/2 green chilli, seeds left in, finely diced grated zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed in a mortar and pestle 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 3 tablespoons for frying labneh to serve (either store bought or see page 224) a pinch of sumac to serve 4 lemon cheeks to serve extra-virgin olive oil to serve lemon juice to serve Mince the fish by hand with a sharp knife or pulse in a food processor very briefly until you have a coarse texture that is not at all smooth – you want to retain some texture in these fish cakes. Put the minced fish in a wide bowl and add all the ingredients except the labneh, sumac and lemon cheeks. Mix by hand until everything is incorporated and the fish takes on a slightly yellow, spiced colour. You will want to taste the mixture at this point to make sure that the fish cakes are well seasoned. Heat the 3 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil in a wide, deep frying pan over a medium–high heat. Roll a small portion of the fish mixture into a ball and sear it in the warmed pan. Remove the pan from the heat. Taste for salt, pepper and acidity from the lemon zest, and add more of any of these ingredients to the mixture if you think it needs it. Form the mixture into balls about the size of a golf ball and flatten them slightly so that they take on a patty shape. Reheat the oil in the frying pan over a medium–high heat. When the oil is hot, fry the fish cakes in batches until golden, about 2 minutes each side. Layer the labneh onto a serving plate and top with a pinch of sumac. Place the fish cakes on top of the labneh, and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. Scatter with a handful more of each of the fresh herbs, then put the lemon cheeks between the fish cakes and serve while hot. Fish cakes with green herbs and labneh Fish balls, fish cakes and fish fritters are common in Jewish cuisine. I recently ate a dreamy plate of them cooked by a Jewish woman of Syrian-Lebanese heritage at her restaurant in Tel Aviv. They were served with lots of herbs and yoghurt, reminding me how much I love fritters made with fish. The recipe below uses trout and flathead, but flathead and fresh sardines also pair well. Ultimately you should choose the two types of fish that look freshest at your fishmonger, ideally one a firm and one an oily fish. I like eating these fish cakes with labneh or plain sour yoghurt, but you could also form the fish mixture into balls and poach them instead of the fillets in the Chraime sauce (page 92). Either way, serve with a bite of crisp salad and pickled chillies on the side and you will forget everything but the decadent flavours rolling around your mouth. HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 84-85HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 84-8516/1/2024 9:53 am16/1/2024 9:53 am102103 Ellie’s Table Chicken soup I am not sure that there is anything cosier or more beautiful than a big pot of chicken soup simmering on the stove. The broth sits on the stove all day, gently warming your home with the scent of carrot, celery, onion and dill. Chicken necks are essential to this rich broth. MAKES ABOUT 4 LITRES/ SERVES ABOUT 8 3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) mix of raw chicken carcasses, including chicken necks and marrow bones 100 g (31/2 oz) butter (optional; to keep this recipe kosher, substitute 170 ml/51/2 fl oz/ 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil) 30 ml (1 fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil 3 onions, finely diced (set aside the onion skins) 1/2 bunch celery, finely diced (reserve the inner leaves of the celery heart for garnish) 3 carrots, peeled and finely diced 2 tablespoons peppercorns 6 bay leaves 1 garlic bulb, sliced in half horizontally 5 litres (169 fl oz/20 cups) cold water 1/2 bunch flat-leaf (Italian) parsley 1 bunch dill (set aside a few sprigs for garnish) 3 extra carrots, peeled, sliced on an angle into 3–4 pieces extra-virgin olive oil to serve Note: The onion skins give the broth a golden hue. First clean the chicken carcasses just like my grandmother taught me. Cover the chicken in a generous amount of salt and let stand for 10 minutes. Rinse off the salt and place the chicken in a bowl. Cover with tap water and leave for another 10 minutes, then drain and set aside. Over a medium heat, melt the butter and warm the extra-virgin olive oil in a large stockpot – it needs to be big enough to hold all the ingredients listed, plus 5 litres of water. Put the onions, celery and finely diced carrots in the pot, together with the peppercorns and bay leaves, and sweat the vegetables for around 15 minutes. Once the vegetables have softened and smell fragrant, add the garlic and stir. Season with a small amount of salt. Put the chicken carcasses in the pot (be mindful about contamination – soap down any surface that comes into contact with the raw chicken) and the onion skins, then cover with the cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook for at least 3 hours (between 3 and 5 hours is ideal). Refrain from stirring the soup during that time: the less you stir, the clearer the final broth will be. Skim off any foam that forms on the surface. After about 2 hours of cooking the soup, season further with salt and put the bunches of parsley and dill in the pot. Gently push them down so they sit just under the surface. Add the extra carrots to the soup at this point and poach them for about 10 minutes, until they are tender. Lift them out and set them aside until you are ready to serve. When the broth is golden, full of flavour and not watery, strain it and discard the solids. Season the broth further to taste if needed, cool and refrigerate. Once it cools there will be a layer of hard yellow fat on the top of the soup. Lift this fat cap off before serving (you can save it to rub over chicken, to cook potatoes in or to add to ragus for extra flavour). To serve, fill each bowl with two ladles of soup and a piece of poached carrot. Top with the dill and celery leaves, a small pinch of flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper, and a few drops of olive oil. Big Plates HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 102-103HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 102-10316/1/2024 9:53 am16/1/2024 9:53 am102103 Ellie’s Table Chicken soup I am not sure that there is anything cosier or more beautiful than a big pot of chicken soup simmering on the stove. The broth sits on the stove all day, gently warming your home with the scent of carrot, celery, onion and dill. Chicken necks are essential to this rich broth. MAKES ABOUT 4 LITRES/ SERVES ABOUT 8 3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) mix of raw chicken carcasses, including chicken necks and marrow bones 100 g (31/2 oz) butter (optional; to keep this recipe kosher, substitute 170 ml/51/2 fl oz/ 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil) 30 ml (1 fl oz) extra-virgin olive oil 3 onions, finely diced (set aside the onion skins) 1/2 bunch celery, finely diced (reserve the inner leaves of the celery heart for garnish) 3 carrots, peeled and finely diced 2 tablespoons peppercorns 6 bay leaves 1 garlic bulb, sliced in half horizontally 5 litres (169 fl oz/20 cups) cold water 1/2 bunch flat-leaf (Italian) parsley 1 bunch dill (set aside a few sprigs for garnish) 3 extra carrots, peeled, sliced on an angle into 3–4 pieces extra-virgin olive oil to serve Note: The onion skins give the broth a golden hue. First clean the chicken carcasses just like my grandmother taught me. Cover the chicken in a generous amount of salt and let stand for 10 minutes. Rinse off the salt and place the chicken in a bowl. Cover with tap water and leave for another 10 minutes, then drain and set aside. Over a medium heat, melt the butter and warm the extra-virgin olive oil in a large stockpot – it needs to be big enough to hold all the ingredients listed, plus 5 litres of water. Put the onions, celery and finely diced carrots in the pot, together with the peppercorns and bay leaves, and sweat the vegetables for around 15 minutes. Once the vegetables have softened and smell fragrant, add the garlic and stir. Season with a small amount of salt. Put the chicken carcasses in the pot (be mindful about contamination – soap down any surface that comes into contact with the raw chicken) and the onion skins, then cover with the cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. Cook for at least 3 hours (between 3 and 5 hours is ideal). Refrain from stirring the soup during that time: the less you stir, the clearer the final broth will be. Skim off any foam that forms on the surface. After about 2 hours of cooking the soup, season further with salt and put the bunches of parsley and dill in the pot. Gently push them down so they sit just under the surface. Add the extra carrots to the soup at this point and poach them for about 10 minutes, until they are tender. Lift them out and set them aside until you are ready to serve. When the broth is golden, full of flavour and not watery, strain it and discard the solids. Season the broth further to taste if needed, cool and refrigerate. Once it cools there will be a layer of hard yellow fat on the top of the soup. Lift this fat cap off before serving (you can save it to rub over chicken, to cook potatoes in or to add to ragus for extra flavour). To serve, fill each bowl with two ladles of soup and a piece of poached carrot. Top with the dill and celery leaves, a small pinch of flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper, and a few drops of olive oil. Big Plates HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 102-103HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 102-10316/1/2024 9:53 am16/1/2024 9:53 amEllie’s Table 112 HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 112-113HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 112-11316/1/2024 9:54 am16/1/2024 9:54 amEllie’s Table 112 HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 112-113HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 112-11316/1/2024 9:54 am16/1/2024 9:54 am146147 VegetablesEllie’s Table SERVES 4 60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons 50 g (13/4 oz) buckwheat 500–600 g (1 lb 2 oz–1 lb 5 oz) baby leeks (if you can’t find baby leeks, substitute with normal leeks) 300 g (101/2 oz) asparagus 65 g (21/4 oz) good quality manchego, broken into rough chunks VINAIGRETTE 2 tablespoons dijon mustard 2 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Chardonnay vinegar 20 g (3/4 oz) shallot, finely chopped 80 ml (21/2 fl oz/1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil handful of chervil, leaves roughly picked 3 tarragon sprigs, leaves roughly picked 3 tablespoons water To make the vinaigrette Whisk the dijon, both vinegars and shallots in a bowl until combined. Keep whisking and very slowly pour in the extra-virgin olive oil. When all of the oil is whisked in, very gently chop the chervil leaves into a rough heap, and do the same with the tarragon leaves. Set aside a small amount of the soft herbs for garnish and stir the remainder into the vinaigrette. Whisk in the water to loosen the dressing, then season to taste with flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper. The vinaigrette should taste tangy and sharp with a bit of spice from the mustard and shallots, but it should be balanced by the sweet cider vinegar and fruity Chardonnay vinegar. If it is too tangy, balance the flavour by adding a little more of the sweet vinegar. To toast the buckwheat and cook the vegetables Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) of the olive oil in a frying pan over a low heat and toast the buckwheat until it is golden brown and crisp – it will taste almost like popcorn when it is ready and it will soak up quite a bit of the oil. Keep an eye on it, as it can burn easily. Set the toasted buckwheat aside to cool on a plate. Slice the dark green tops off the leeks (either discard them or save for a stock), then clean the leeks very well under running water to remove all dirt. Bring a saucepan of well-salted water to the boil, then poach the leeks for about 6–8 minutes, until they are soft but don’t fall apart when you insert a knife into them (if you are using normal leeks, cook them for about 10–12 minutes). Transfer them to a bowl of iced water and shock until the leeks are cool, about 2 minutes, then slice them in half lengthways (if using normal leeks, slice them lengthways into quarters). Set aside. Spring vegetables and toasted buckwheat with vinaigrette A small bundle of poached baby leeks, silky and slender. Seasonal asparagus spears lie beside the leeks, glistening with olive oil and still crisp after a brief sear in a hot pan. The vinaigrette, loose and fragrant, falls over the spring vegetables. This dish needs the toasted buckwheat and a good cheddar – both ingredients add a nutty taste and important texture. The soft herbs are also essential. Make this when you need a tangy vegetable side dish to accompany a rich, decadent main. Cut about 3 cm (11/4 in) off the bottom of each asparagus spear and discard (these bits are usually woody and tough), then slice the asparagus in half. Heat another 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in the frying pan over a medium–high heat, and sear the asparagus very briefly so that they stay firm but gain some colour, taking care not to overcook them as they will become floppy. Season the cooked asparagus lightly with flaky salt and set aside. To serve Put the leeks on a platter and season lightly with flaky salt. Spoon over some of the vinaigrette so as to partially cover the leeks. Lay the asparagus on top of the leeks on one side, season with flaky salt and spoon a little of the vinaigrette over them too (you may not need to use all of the vinaigrette; save the rest to use on salads, boiled eggs and so on). Scatter the manchego on top of the leeks on the opposite side to the asparagus. Sprinkle the reserved chervil and tarragon over the vegetables, then spoon over the toasted buckwheat and a little bit of the fragrant olive oil it was fried in to serve. HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 146-147HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 146-14716/1/2024 9:54 am16/1/2024 9:54 am146147 VegetablesEllie’s Table SERVES 4 60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons 50 g (13/4 oz) buckwheat 500–600 g (1 lb 2 oz–1 lb 5 oz) baby leeks (if you can’t find baby leeks, substitute with normal leeks) 300 g (101/2 oz) asparagus 65 g (21/4 oz) good quality manchego, broken into rough chunks VINAIGRETTE 2 tablespoons dijon mustard 2 tablespoons apple-cider vinegar 1 teaspoon Chardonnay vinegar 20 g (3/4 oz) shallot, finely chopped 80 ml (21/2 fl oz/1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil handful of chervil, leaves roughly picked 3 tarragon sprigs, leaves roughly picked 3 tablespoons water To make the vinaigrette Whisk the dijon, both vinegars and shallots in a bowl until combined. Keep whisking and very slowly pour in the extra-virgin olive oil. When all of the oil is whisked in, very gently chop the chervil leaves into a rough heap, and do the same with the tarragon leaves. Set aside a small amount of the soft herbs for garnish and stir the remainder into the vinaigrette. Whisk in the water to loosen the dressing, then season to taste with flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper. The vinaigrette should taste tangy and sharp with a bit of spice from the mustard and shallots, but it should be balanced by the sweet cider vinegar and fruity Chardonnay vinegar. If it is too tangy, balance the flavour by adding a little more of the sweet vinegar. To toast the buckwheat and cook the vegetables Heat 60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) of the olive oil in a frying pan over a low heat and toast the buckwheat until it is golden brown and crisp – it will taste almost like popcorn when it is ready and it will soak up quite a bit of the oil. Keep an eye on it, as it can burn easily. Set the toasted buckwheat aside to cool on a plate. Slice the dark green tops off the leeks (either discard them or save for a stock), then clean the leeks very well under running water to remove all dirt. Bring a saucepan of well-salted water to the boil, then poach the leeks for about 6–8 minutes, until they are soft but don’t fall apart when you insert a knife into them (if you are using normal leeks, cook them for about 10–12 minutes). Transfer them to a bowl of iced water and shock until the leeks are cool, about 2 minutes, then slice them in half lengthways (if using normal leeks, slice them lengthways into quarters). Set aside. Spring vegetables and toasted buckwheat with vinaigrette A small bundle of poached baby leeks, silky and slender. Seasonal asparagus spears lie beside the leeks, glistening with olive oil and still crisp after a brief sear in a hot pan. The vinaigrette, loose and fragrant, falls over the spring vegetables. This dish needs the toasted buckwheat and a good cheddar – both ingredients add a nutty taste and important texture. The soft herbs are also essential. Make this when you need a tangy vegetable side dish to accompany a rich, decadent main. Cut about 3 cm (11/4 in) off the bottom of each asparagus spear and discard (these bits are usually woody and tough), then slice the asparagus in half. Heat another 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in the frying pan over a medium–high heat, and sear the asparagus very briefly so that they stay firm but gain some colour, taking care not to overcook them as they will become floppy. Season the cooked asparagus lightly with flaky salt and set aside. To serve Put the leeks on a platter and season lightly with flaky salt. Spoon over some of the vinaigrette so as to partially cover the leeks. Lay the asparagus on top of the leeks on one side, season with flaky salt and spoon a little of the vinaigrette over them too (you may not need to use all of the vinaigrette; save the rest to use on salads, boiled eggs and so on). Scatter the manchego on top of the leeks on the opposite side to the asparagus. Sprinkle the reserved chervil and tarragon over the vegetables, then spoon over the toasted buckwheat and a little bit of the fragrant olive oil it was fried in to serve. HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 146-147HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 146-14716/1/2024 9:54 am16/1/2024 9:54 amPasta Plates 170171 Ellie’s Table SERVES 4 440 g (151/2 oz) spaghetti 4 tablespoons Whipped anchovy butter (page 67) 60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, finely sliced pinch of chilli flakes handful of flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, finely chopped (optional) Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, season generously with fine sea salt, stir and then add the spaghetti. While the pasta is cooking, warm the anchovy butter and olive oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat until the butter has melted and is beginning to sizzle gently. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper and nudge everything around the pan. When the garlic smells fragrant and the butter is just starting to foam slightly, lift the pasta out of the water and drop it straight into the pan (if the pasta is not ready by the time the garlic is golden, turn off the pan and wait until the pasta is al dente before continuing). Throw over the parsley if you are using it, pour in a small ladle of the pasta water, shake the pan and stir everything energetically until each strand is coated in a silky sauce. If it seems dry, add another splash of the pasta water and stir to emulsify. Taste and season further with flaky salt if needed. Serve straight away on simple plates and eat while hovering over the kitchen bench. Spaghetti with whipped anchovy butter, garlic and chilli This is what I like eating when I am suddenly hungry and feel like something salty and luscious. It is kind of like aglio e olio, but the addition of the whipped anchovy butter takes it to a sultry place. As the butter and olive oil melt together and the garlic begins to smell fragrant, I wait patiently to be able to toss the pasta in. The strands of spaghetti become wet and silky from their toss in the pan with the pasta water and a glug of olive oil. The flicks of red chilli flakes and bright parsley gleam. This could be a dish you make spontaneously for a lover perched on a kitchen bench. It is rich but still honest and relaxed. I will sip on a glass of wine, or vermouth on ice, as I try to eat it slowly. Serve on simple plates, in a warm room. HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 170-171HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 170-17116/1/2024 9:54 am16/1/2024 9:54 amPasta Plates 170171 Ellie’s Table SERVES 4 440 g (151/2 oz) spaghetti 4 tablespoons Whipped anchovy butter (page 67) 60 ml (2 fl oz/1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, finely sliced pinch of chilli flakes handful of flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, finely chopped (optional) Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, season generously with fine sea salt, stir and then add the spaghetti. While the pasta is cooking, warm the anchovy butter and olive oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat until the butter has melted and is beginning to sizzle gently. Add the garlic, chilli flakes and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper and nudge everything around the pan. When the garlic smells fragrant and the butter is just starting to foam slightly, lift the pasta out of the water and drop it straight into the pan (if the pasta is not ready by the time the garlic is golden, turn off the pan and wait until the pasta is al dente before continuing). Throw over the parsley if you are using it, pour in a small ladle of the pasta water, shake the pan and stir everything energetically until each strand is coated in a silky sauce. If it seems dry, add another splash of the pasta water and stir to emulsify. Taste and season further with flaky salt if needed. Serve straight away on simple plates and eat while hovering over the kitchen bench. Spaghetti with whipped anchovy butter, garlic and chilli This is what I like eating when I am suddenly hungry and feel like something salty and luscious. It is kind of like aglio e olio, but the addition of the whipped anchovy butter takes it to a sultry place. As the butter and olive oil melt together and the garlic begins to smell fragrant, I wait patiently to be able to toss the pasta in. The strands of spaghetti become wet and silky from their toss in the pan with the pasta water and a glug of olive oil. The flicks of red chilli flakes and bright parsley gleam. This could be a dish you make spontaneously for a lover perched on a kitchen bench. It is rich but still honest and relaxed. I will sip on a glass of wine, or vermouth on ice, as I try to eat it slowly. Serve on simple plates, in a warm room. HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 170-171HG ElliesTable_Pages SI.indd 170-17116/1/2024 9:54 am16/1/2024 9:54 amNext >