< PreviousABOUT THIS BOOKAndina is by no means a complete cookbook on the cuisine of the Peruvian Andes; nor is it a ‘restaurant cookbook’ in the strictest sense of the term. It’s my creative expression of both, and offers more than that, too. This is a cookbook complemented with stories that bring meaning and life to our recipes and to the Andina regions. About half of the recipes are selected key dishes from the eleven regions of the Peruvian Andes; in the other half, we have created new recipes that are influenced by the ingredients and traditions of those regions. We serve both kinds in our restaurants, as food should be made from what you have available. Sometimes we use native Andina ingredients, but in this book we have made sure always to offer alternative local ingredients, if needed. So, ours is a cuisine that is accessible to a home chef (you can buy the ingredients at your local supermarket and not necessarily just in the most obscure market high up in the Andes), but with flavours that you will relish and techniques that will surprise you. In a way, in this book, we are bringing you new colours and paintbrushes, and now the canvas is yours to paint.ANDINA STORIESAt the end of the book are eleven stories, one for each region, that form the backdrop to the recipes; they are an expression of my very personal relationship with the Andina regions. Through my travels I’ve met farmers and women produce sellers at many markets, and I’ve cooked with wonderful picanteras. These Andina women drive us forward, encouraging us to explore, evolve, challenge and refine our cooking. This book gives a voice to those unsung heroes; it is a clear acknowledgement of the magnitude of the Andinas’ contribution to Peruvian food. It is both an expression of my gratitude to them and a celebration of their work for you. The Andina regions of Peru also provide so much worldly significance in terms of terrain and history, such as the deepest canyon, the highest lake, the longest mountain range, one of the most advanced ancient civilizations and some of the most nutritious and unique ingredients on the planet. This is a majestic landscape of gods and battles, of humility and oppression, of exploitation and survival, of stunning geographical beauty – a beauty and a land that has inspired chefs and cooks, as well as photographers, painters, musicians and writers since time immemorial. This is the land that the Inca Túpac Amaru was sacrificed for, the great José María Arguedas eloquently wrote about, the photographer Martín Chambi chronicled so beautifully. It is the land that José Sabogal painted, Daniel Alomía Robles translated through harmonies, Flor Pucarina sings about, and gave birth to Mario Vargas Llosa, winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature. This energy and creativity is how I see Andina. I’m married to this vast region and its people through my work and our restaurants, and I’m thrilled you can join me in celebrating it in this book. 14 IntroductionIntroduction15 ABOUT THIS BOOKAndina is by no means a complete cookbook on the cuisine of the Peruvian Andes; nor is it a ‘restaurant cookbook’ in the strictest sense of the term. It’s my creative expression of both, and offers more than that, too. This is a cookbook complemented with stories that bring meaning and life to our recipes and to the Andina regions. About half of the recipes are selected key dishes from the eleven regions of the Peruvian Andes; in the other half, we have created new recipes that are influenced by the ingredients and traditions of those regions. We serve both kinds in our restaurants, as food should be made from what you have available. Sometimes we use native Andina ingredients, but in this book we have made sure always to offer alternative local ingredients, if needed. So, ours is a cuisine that is accessible to a home chef (you can buy the ingredients at your local supermarket and not necessarily just in the most obscure market high up in the Andes), but with flavours that you will relish and techniques that will surprise you. In a way, in this book, we are bringing you new colours and paintbrushes, and now the canvas is yours to paint.ANDINA STORIESAt the end of the book are eleven stories, one for each region, that form the backdrop to the recipes; they are an expression of my very personal relationship with the Andina regions. Through my travels I’ve met farmers and women produce sellers at many markets, and I’ve cooked with wonderful picanteras. These Andina women drive us forward, encouraging us to explore, evolve, challenge and refine our cooking. This book gives a voice to those unsung heroes; it is a clear acknowledgement of the magnitude of the Andinas’ contribution to Peruvian food. It is both an expression of my gratitude to them and a celebration of their work for you. The Andina regions of Peru also provide so much worldly significance in terms of terrain and history, such as the deepest canyon, the highest lake, the longest mountain range, one of the most advanced ancient civilizations and some of the most nutritious and unique ingredients on the planet. This is a majestic landscape of gods and battles, of humility and oppression, of exploitation and survival, of stunning geographical beauty – a beauty and a land that has inspired chefs and cooks, as well as photographers, painters, musicians and writers since time immemorial. This is the land that the Inca Túpac Amaru was sacrificed for, the great José María Arguedas eloquently wrote about, the photographer Martín Chambi chronicled so beautifully. It is the land that José Sabogal painted, Daniel Alomía Robles translated through harmonies, Flor Pucarina sings about, and gave birth to Mario Vargas Llosa, winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature. This energy and creativity is how I see Andina. I’m married to this vast region and its people through my work and our restaurants, and I’m thrilled you can join me in celebrating it in this book. 14 IntroductionIntroduction15 Ceviche Andino74 CevichesGluten-freeSERVES 4Sea Bass, Physalis & Avocado Ceviche. This is one of our most iconic dishes at Andina. Although associated with the coast, in fact ceviches are eaten all over Peru, especially in the Andes where there is a wide variety of river fish. In this recipe, we have brought together some key Andina ingredients to create a ceviche that sings with authenticity. 1 large red onion, very thinly sliced1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1.5cm dice600g skinless sea bass fillets, cut into 1.5cm diceA few coriander leaves, finely chopped; plus a few extra whole leaves, to decorate1 large, ripe avocado, destoned, peeled and flesh cut into 1.5cm dice12 physalis, halved2 tsp cancha corn or pistachios, crushed, to serve4 tbsp coriander herb oil (see p.56)SaltFor the amarillo tiger’s milk (makes about 200ml)5mm piece of ginger1 garlic clove, halved4 coriander sprigsJuice of 12 limes, plus extra to taste2 tsp amarillo chilli paste (see p.20)First, make the amarillo tiger’s milk. Put the ginger, garlic, coriander and lime juice in a bowl. Stir and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture through a sieve into a separate bowl and add the chilli paste and ½ teaspoon of salt. Taste to check the balance of flavours and add more salt, chilli or lime juice if necessary. Set aside. Meanwhile, soak the onion slices in iced water for 5 minutes, then drain them thoroughly and lay them out on kitchen paper so that they dry completely.Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Salt the water then add the sweet potato cubes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until just tender (about 5–7 minutes). Drain and set aside.Put the cubes of sea bass in the bowl with the tiger’s milk for 1 minute only, then add the onion slices, chopped coriander, avocado, physalis, and the cooked sweet potato. Turn all the components over very gently (you do not want the sweet potato or avocado to break up), then divide the ceviche equally between 4 bowls. Taste and check the seasoning, adding a little more salt if necessary, then serve immediately decorated with a sprinkling of crushed cancha corn or pistachios, coriander leaves and coriander herb oil.Ceviche Andino74 CevichesGluten-freeSERVES 4Sea Bass, Physalis & Avocado Ceviche. This is one of our most iconic dishes at Andina. Although associated with the coast, in fact ceviches are eaten all over Peru, especially in the Andes where there is a wide variety of river fish. In this recipe, we have brought together some key Andina ingredients to create a ceviche that sings with authenticity. 1 large red onion, very thinly sliced1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1.5cm dice600g skinless sea bass fillets, cut into 1.5cm diceA few coriander leaves, finely chopped; plus a few extra whole leaves, to decorate1 large, ripe avocado, destoned, peeled and flesh cut into 1.5cm dice12 physalis, halved2 tsp cancha corn or pistachios, crushed, to serve4 tbsp coriander herb oil (see p.56)SaltFor the amarillo tiger’s milk (makes about 200ml)5mm piece of ginger1 garlic clove, halved4 coriander sprigsJuice of 12 limes, plus extra to taste2 tsp amarillo chilli paste (see p.20)First, make the amarillo tiger’s milk. Put the ginger, garlic, coriander and lime juice in a bowl. Stir and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain the mixture through a sieve into a separate bowl and add the chilli paste and ½ teaspoon of salt. Taste to check the balance of flavours and add more salt, chilli or lime juice if necessary. Set aside. Meanwhile, soak the onion slices in iced water for 5 minutes, then drain them thoroughly and lay them out on kitchen paper so that they dry completely.Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Salt the water then add the sweet potato cubes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until just tender (about 5–7 minutes). Drain and set aside.Put the cubes of sea bass in the bowl with the tiger’s milk for 1 minute only, then add the onion slices, chopped coriander, avocado, physalis, and the cooked sweet potato. Turn all the components over very gently (you do not want the sweet potato or avocado to break up), then divide the ceviche equally between 4 bowls. Taste and check the seasoning, adding a little more salt if necessary, then serve immediately decorated with a sprinkling of crushed cancha corn or pistachios, coriander leaves and coriander herb oil.Pesque de Quinua144 StewsSERVES 4Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for about 10 minutes until softened and lightly golden. Add the garlic and cumin and cook for 2–3 minutes more until the garlic has softened but not browned.Add the quinoa and the cream or evaporated milk to the pan. Stir to combine and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and simmer very gently for about 5 minutes, then add the queso fresco or feta, folding it through the quinoa mixture. When the cheese has warmed through, remove the pan from the heat.Preheat your grill to its highest setting. Transfer the quinoa mixture to a large ovenproof dish, or divide it between 4 individual serving dishes and sprinkle the Cheddar over. Put the dish or small dishes under the preheated grill for about 5–7 minutes until the cheese turns golden brown and is bubbling. Sprinkle with the chopped mint and serve immediately. 4 tbsp olive oil1 large onion, very finely chopped or grated4 garlic cloves, crushed½ tsp ground cumin100g white quinoa, cooked (see p.64)200ml single cream or evaporated milk200g queso fresco or feta, cubed100g Cheddar cheese, gratedA handful of mint leaves, finely choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepperQuinoa & Cheese Pudding. I’d long heard about this dish, but I didn’t try it until I visited the fabulous Huancahuasi Restaurant in Huancayo recently. Local chef Dave Zavala recommended the dish, and then suggested topping it with cheese. It’s quinotto-style (like a risotto but with quinoa), only creamier and more indulgent. You can eat it just as it is, or as a side for a stew, such as Picante de Lengua (see p.146). Vegetarian, Gluten-freePesque de Quinua144 StewsSERVES 4Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for about 10 minutes until softened and lightly golden. Add the garlic and cumin and cook for 2–3 minutes more until the garlic has softened but not browned.Add the quinoa and the cream or evaporated milk to the pan. Stir to combine and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and simmer very gently for about 5 minutes, then add the queso fresco or feta, folding it through the quinoa mixture. When the cheese has warmed through, remove the pan from the heat.Preheat your grill to its highest setting. Transfer the quinoa mixture to a large ovenproof dish, or divide it between 4 individual serving dishes and sprinkle the Cheddar over. Put the dish or small dishes under the preheated grill for about 5–7 minutes until the cheese turns golden brown and is bubbling. Sprinkle with the chopped mint and serve immediately. 4 tbsp olive oil1 large onion, very finely chopped or grated4 garlic cloves, crushed½ tsp ground cumin100g white quinoa, cooked (see p.64)200ml single cream or evaporated milk200g queso fresco or feta, cubed100g Cheddar cheese, gratedA handful of mint leaves, finely choppedSalt and freshly ground black pepperQuinoa & Cheese Pudding. I’d long heard about this dish, but I didn’t try it until I visited the fabulous Huancahuasi Restaurant in Huancayo recently. Local chef Dave Zavala recommended the dish, and then suggested topping it with cheese. It’s quinotto-style (like a risotto but with quinoa), only creamier and more indulgent. You can eat it just as it is, or as a side for a stew, such as Picante de Lengua (see p.146). Vegetarian, Gluten-freeShtrukala de Oxapampa190 DessertsVegetarian, Gluten-freeSERVES 6–8First, make the pastry. Mix all the flours together in a bowl. In a separate bowl, beat together the butter and sugars until soft and mousse-like. Add 1 egg yolk to the creamed butter and sugar, then a spoonful of flour mixture and stir to incorporate. Repeat for the remaining egg yolks, alternating with a spoonful of flour each time. Add the remaining flour, stir to combine and form into a soft ball. Wrap in clingfilm and chill until needed. To make the filling, melt the butter in a small frying pan over a low heat. Add the plantain and fry, stirring, for 4–5 minutes until the plantain dice are lightly golden brown. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Transfer to a food processor or blender, add the banana and blitz to a purée. Add the mascarpone and eggs and blitz again to a smooth, pourable mixture. Set aside.To make the plantain slices, put the plantain halves in a saucepan and cover with water. Put over a high heat. Add the cinnamon and star anise and bring to the boil. Add the bicarbonate of soda, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes until al dente. Drain and slice the plantain into 1cm-thick rings. Set aside.To make the butterscotch, melt the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, shaking it so that it covers the base evenly and resisting the urge to stir. When the melted sugar has turned a light golden brown (about 6–7 minutes), reduce the heat, then add the butter. Whisk to a smooth sauce, then add the chancaca syrup. Whisk again to a rich caramel. Set aside.Preheat the oven to 170°C (gas mark 3). Take a 23cm diameter nonstick ovenproof skillet or shallow nonstick tin. Pour in the butterscotch, then top with the plantain slices and cover with the filling. Roll out the pastry, placing it on top of the filling to cover and tucking the edges down. Cut a couple of slits in the dough. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. Leave to rest for 1 minute, then turn out the tart onto a plate and serve in slices.For the pastry35g white quinoa flour50g gram flour150g gluten-free flour125g butter, softened50g icing sugar25g muscovado sugar3 egg yolksFor the filling 15g butter2 small or 1 large, ripe plantain, peeled and diced1 medium–large banana, peeled and mashed75g mascarpone2 eggsFor the plantain slices1 small green plantain, peeled and cut in half 1 cinnamon stick3 star anise½ tsp bicarbonate of sodaFor the butterscotch150g caster sugar50g butter100ml chancaca syrup (see p.120)Oxapampa Tart. Thanks to migration from Austria and Germany to the Pasco region in the Andes many decades ago, Peruvians are lucky enough to have this sticky and dramatic dessert. Here, we’ve made it using plantain, but you can use any kind of banana. Serve it with single cream or ice cream. Shtrukala de Oxapampa190 DessertsVegetarian, Gluten-freeSERVES 6–8First, make the pastry. Mix all the flours together in a bowl. In a separate bowl, beat together the butter and sugars until soft and mousse-like. Add 1 egg yolk to the creamed butter and sugar, then a spoonful of flour mixture and stir to incorporate. Repeat for the remaining egg yolks, alternating with a spoonful of flour each time. Add the remaining flour, stir to combine and form into a soft ball. Wrap in clingfilm and chill until needed. To make the filling, melt the butter in a small frying pan over a low heat. Add the plantain and fry, stirring, for 4–5 minutes until the plantain dice are lightly golden brown. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Transfer to a food processor or blender, add the banana and blitz to a purée. Add the mascarpone and eggs and blitz again to a smooth, pourable mixture. Set aside.To make the plantain slices, put the plantain halves in a saucepan and cover with water. Put over a high heat. Add the cinnamon and star anise and bring to the boil. Add the bicarbonate of soda, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes until al dente. Drain and slice the plantain into 1cm-thick rings. Set aside.To make the butterscotch, melt the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, shaking it so that it covers the base evenly and resisting the urge to stir. When the melted sugar has turned a light golden brown (about 6–7 minutes), reduce the heat, then add the butter. Whisk to a smooth sauce, then add the chancaca syrup. Whisk again to a rich caramel. Set aside.Preheat the oven to 170°C (gas mark 3). Take a 23cm diameter nonstick ovenproof skillet or shallow nonstick tin. Pour in the butterscotch, then top with the plantain slices and cover with the filling. Roll out the pastry, placing it on top of the filling to cover and tucking the edges down. Cut a couple of slits in the dough. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. Leave to rest for 1 minute, then turn out the tart onto a plate and serve in slices.For the pastry35g white quinoa flour50g gram flour150g gluten-free flour125g butter, softened50g icing sugar25g muscovado sugar3 egg yolksFor the filling 15g butter2 small or 1 large, ripe plantain, peeled and diced1 medium–large banana, peeled and mashed75g mascarpone2 eggsFor the plantain slices1 small green plantain, peeled and cut in half 1 cinnamon stick3 star anise½ tsp bicarbonate of sodaFor the butterscotch150g caster sugar50g butter100ml chancaca syrup (see p.120)Oxapampa Tart. Thanks to migration from Austria and Germany to the Pasco region in the Andes many decades ago, Peruvians are lucky enough to have this sticky and dramatic dessert. Here, we’ve made it using plantain, but you can use any kind of banana. Serve it with single cream or ice cream. 272 Thank you for buying this book. It’s been a dream come true. Aquí se cocina con cariño. Here we cook with love. You can contact me on: Martin.Morales@CevicheUK.com and check out MartinMorales.co.uk. Subscribe to Martin’s Peruvian Kitchen YouTube channel to check out recipes and behind-the-scenes videos. Come and visit our restaurants in London. Each is unique with different menus, design and atmosphere. Andina1 Redchurch St Shoreditch E2 7DJBookings: CevicheUK.com AndinaLondon.comCeviche Soho17 Frith St Soho W1D 4RGAn ANDINA compilation soundtrack featuring music to cook to compiled by Martin Morales and friends is available through our own Peruvian music record label Tiger’s Milk Records: www.tigersmilkrecords.comEnjoy a sample of this collection. Download a track for free here: www.tigersmilkrecords.com/downloadAlso available:CEVICHE: Peruvian Kitchen by Martin Morales Published by W&N/HachettePlease support the efforts of Amantani.org.uk – a charity that we work with helping children living in poverty in Peru.PUBLISHER’S ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSThank you to all the ceramicists who created work specially for the photoshoots.Casita Andina31 Great Windmill St Soho W1D 7LPCeviche Old St2 Baldwin St Old Street EC1V 9NUNext >