WO R L D PA R T Y 1 I N T R O DU C T I ON If I had to name one reason for writing this book, it’s this: I love to throw parties. Whether it’s a dinner gathering of a few close friends or a drink-and- dance a air of 40, I simply enjoy hosting them. Aside from reveling in the company of my friends and having fun decorating and planning, parties allow me to try out new recipes (I’m always looking for excuses to cook new dishes). There is something thrilling about going through my recipe clippings, which I’ve collected since I was a young girl, and picking out recipes that I have wanted to try for years. Some would say I need a life; I say food is life. Appetizers are particularly fun to make, but how many combinations of vegetables and cream cheese can one endure? I wrote my rst book, Vegetarian Italian: Traditions, to o er vegetarians authentic Italian meals. I wrote this book to o er more choices for vegetarian entertaining. There is a little of everything here, from sandwiches to salads, noodles to fritters. Some can be eaten with a fork or spoon or chopsticks, whereas others only require ngers (preferably your own, and clean, of course). Some recipes may strike you as being more appropriate for sit-down dinner appetizers, while others may seem more suitable for a bu et table. There are, however, no real rules about how or when you should use any of these recipes. The words appetizer and hors d’oeuvre are used interchangeably throughout this book. I don’t know if there is a real distinction between them. Merriam- Webster’s Dictionary de nes hors d’oeuvres as “any of various savory foods usually served as appetizers.” Hors d’oeuvre (which, in French, literally means “outside the work”) seems to be commonly used when referring to small, bite-sized tidbits, the kind that go oating by on a raised tray perched on a server’s hand. Appetizer seems to be the term used to describe something more lling. But in this book, it’s all the same and it’s all good. T HE E V O L U T I O N O F A PPE T I ZE R S Wherever there has been a “civilized” society, there have been appetizers. Ancient Egyptians enjoyed them, as did the ancient Greeks, Romans, and Persians. In all these nations, people had a philosophy in common: The purpose of a meal was not just nourishment, but also pleasure. Part of the pleasure is taste, but it doesn’t end there. Pleasure comes also from variety ( avors, textures, and colors) and ritual. We humans are notorious for our attraction to ritual, and where eating is concerned, ritual plays a large part. Some say a prayer before eating, some make a toast to good health or a better tomorrow. The Japanese have a formal procedure for serving food 2 RO B ERTA RO B ERT IIN T RO D U C T I O N at a tea ceremony (called a chanoyu). Then there is the ritual that is not even recognized as such—the order of a meal. There must be appetizers, then a certain kind of rst course, followed by a certain kind of second course accompanied by a side dish or two, and at the end, a dessert. I call it a ritual because virtually everyone in the Western world eats like this. I don’t know of any culture that serves dessert rst and the “main course” last. There is a certain prescribed order to it all. (Although in some Asian cultures, desserts are served in between courses and soup is o ten taken together with other dishes.) Many of the ancient cultures started with appetizers and ended with dessert, but this custom went the way of indoor plumbing (which the Romans had) when the world plunged into the Dark Ages. In other words, just as knowledge of technology and skill in the ner arts disappeared, so did nesse in the kitchen. For most people—common people, that is—the Dark Ages were about survival, and food was food. Whatever you could get, you ate it and were thankful for it. Artistry in the kitchen, in general, was not a concern. The Plague that wiped out half of Europe in the 14th century made matters worse. But the wealthy rarely su ered in the same way that peasants did in times of crisis. Throughout history, if you had money, you had food. And plenty of it. Rich folk enjoyed the pleasures of a lavishly set table and the service of chefs who strived to amuse their masters with artfully prepared dishes. Still, as far as eating habits were concerned, the rich and the poor were the same. Medieval and Renaissance banquets were served in a style known as á la française. That is, several courses were served, but each course would consist of a variety of appetizers, sh, meats, soups, side dishes, and sweets. This format did not allow guests to taste everything because they would eat only what they could reach. To ask for something out of one’s reach would be an indication of gluttony. Food began to be served as we know it today—from soup to nuts, so to speak—in the mid-1800s, although á la française dominated until the end of that century. The new format, which allowed everyone to taste everything, was called á la russe because it was supposedly the Russian Prince Kourak who introduced it to France in the 1830s. Some believe the credit actually I N T R O DU C T I ONWO R L D PA R T Y 3 IN T RO D U C T I O N goes to Italy for introducing the nuova cucina (“new style of cooking”) in the 16th century. Whatever the origin, France, as it did with many culinary customs, made this style the norm throughout Europe. I N T E R NA T I O NAL C UI SI N E In this book, you will nd many tantalizing appetizers from around the world. It’s wonderful to be able to mix up the usual avors and aromas we are used to with more exotic ones. It’s especially nice to have a theme dinner or party, focusing on a particular type of cuisine. I encountered one problem with the international recipes: labeling them with their countries of origin. No matter how di erent one culture may seem from another, the truth is we are all more alike than we realize. Just about every nation on earth has been in uenced by, and has in turn in uenced, another culture. War, colonization, exploration, and trading have all contributed to cuisines and indigenous ingredients being shared globally. Consequently, it is di cult to determine the true nationality of some dishes. Cultures— including language, dress, and cuisine—overlap, intertwine, and interchange. The names or spellings of recipes may di er and the ingredients may vary slightly from country to country, but some dishes seem to be multinational. For example, Russian and other Slavic cuisines are almost identical. Asian countries have very similar dishes. The Nordic nations—Sweden, Norway, Finland, Denmark, Iceland, and Greenland—share common dishes, too. Exactly which Middle Eastern country can claim to have originated hummus or baba ganouj? Are pierogis Polish or Russian in origin? Are stu ed grape leaves Greek, Russian, or Turkish? Are potato pancakes German or Swedish or Polish? Or are they a Jewish recipe that went wherever the Jews went? Hawaiian cuisine is an amalgamation of Polynesian, Chinese, Japanese, and other Paci c Rim cuisines. The foods of Latin American countries and the islands of the Caribbean are similar because of the in uence of Europeans and Africans during the slave trade period. The countries of Southeast Asia—which include Singapore, Vietnam, Myanmar (Burma), Cambodia, the Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia—share a common thread in that they combine the in uences of Indian and Chinese (and, in the case of Malaysia, native Malay) cuisines. The primary in uence for ingredients there is Indian; for cooking methods, Chinese. Then again, Vietnam and Cambodia are also heavily in uenced by the French, Indonesia by the Dutch, and the Philippines by their Spanish colonizers. So, you see, it 4 RO B ERTA RO B ERT IIN T RO D U C T I O N gets quite complicated. The regional di erences lie in speci c combinations of ingredients and seasonings and methods of cooking. Take rice and beans, for example. This is a staple dish for many Caribbean nations, but depending on which island you look at, the dish is slightly di erent, including the beans preferred. Puerto Ricans love their gandules (pigeon peas), whereas Cubans prefer black beans. Dominicans like cranberry, or roman, beans; in fact, their rice-and-beans dish is called la bandera, because the red and white colors of the dish resemble those of their national ag. It’s because of these shared cultures and cuisines that some of these recipes may seem similar at rst glance. But as you try them, you will see that each one has its own personality, and merits its own worth for being mentioned. And I have done my best in this book to identify the origins of the recipes. Here in the United States, our cuisine, like our society, is the ultimate melting pot. In almost every dish we consider “American,” we can see the in uence of other nations. Cuisines from around the world have become part of the American culinary tapestry, and it is all woven together into a rich pattern. Restaurants exist for virtually every cuisine in the world, especially in big cities, like New York, Los Angeles, and Chicago. Here in New York City, where I live, one can have a meal from a di erent part of the world every night. In a one-week period, I can easily have Jamaican, Indian, German, Malaysian, Ethiopian, Brazilian, and Russian food. And the next week, I can have seven entirely di erent meals. I’d be broke, but full. A B O UT F RY I N G One thing you may note about international appetizers is that frying is a very popular cooking method. Even in countries where food is cooked quickly or minimally (such as Asia or Southeast Asia), frying is o ten employ ed. This is primarily because frying gives food a wonderful texture and a great avor, two things that are especially desirable for appetizers and snacks. While we do have scienti c proof of the harm fried foods can cause our bodies, it’s quite obvious that there are other factors involved in our national obesity crisis. My belief is that it has to do with balance. Americans tip the scale toward excess and unhealthy eating habits, whereas much of the rest of the world tips it the other way. Why are the French, accustomed to eating lots of butter and cream, not su ering from this epidemic? Why not the I N T R O DU C T I ONW O R L D PA R T Y 5 IN T RO D U C T I O N Italians and Greeks, who load their foods with oil and cheeses? Why not the Asians, for whom rice is the main part of a meal? There are so many factors involved—including quality of food, level of processing, portion size, stress, exercise (or lack of it), and attitude. The U.S. obesity problem is a compli- cated issue, and it is not the subject of this book. But in enjoying all foods, we should follow the example of the rest of the world. I believe moderation is the key to enjoying life—a little of everything. So don’t be afraid to make something fried for a special occasion. Do you eat fried foods every day or every week? If the answer is no, then there shouldn’t be a problem for an occasional feast, as long as you’re not under any medical restrictions. You’ll see that throughout this book, I use the term “cooking oil” wherever sautéing or frying is required. The information we receive about the bene ts —and detriments—of di erent oils changes constantly. A few years ago, we thought canola oil was great because of its omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acid content, but then we learned that most canola oil is genetically modi ed and highly processed, and our smiles got turned upside down. Today’s golden child of oil is coconut oil, but that could change tomorrow. So, I’ll leave the decision about what oil to cook with up to you. Where I say “salad oil,” that means any kind of oil that you would use raw in a salad, such as sun ower seed oil, grapeseed oil, or any other mild-tasting oil. Again, I leave the choice up to you. The oil in which you fry should be very hot—about 375 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit—because the hotter it is, the faster the food will cook, the less time it will spend being fried, and the less oil it will soak up. You can use a thermometer if you like, but a good indication that oil is hot enough is when it seems to be shimmering or sliding in the pan. You can test it by sticking a chopstick or the end of a wooden spoon into it; if the oil gently bubbles up around it, it’s ready. Food should sizzle immediately upon hitting the oil. Otherwise, heat it up longer. Taking into consideration concerns about frying, I o er (whenever possible) alternative cooking methods, usually baking. But let me say this: you will not serve all the fried foods in this book all at once. You will make two or three, or maybe four of these recipes every now and then for a gathering or party. You will balance these with vegetables, salads, and other choices. So don’t be afraid to o er one or two fried options. (I promise you, though, that your fried tidbits will go a lot faster than the crudités.)14 ROBERTA ROBERT IA R M EN I A A R M EN I A p u r Dhbu h p TP.h—PId. —Idmk.d—hqmqy f df ’ dYh.v hhk )—TP f df ydhm—Pv UOThuT hk kj bbqkPv .Y OTd—TdbbPmPv OTPm—Thk v hkT Odk yhIk—uIPd—Pv dmv kPIFPv —q dm f df pIY —Thk IPuhbPdmv Yqj W.. j mv PIk—dmv OTY Preheat the oven to 400° F. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise. Rub a little olive oil all over the eggplant halves and place them in a baking dish. Bake until they’re tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. Remove them from the oven and let them cool until they can be handled. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide pan. Add the onions and green peppers and sauté, stirring occasionally, until so t, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté another two minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, mint, parsley, salt, and pepper and sauté another two minutes. Cut or scoop out the centers of the eggplant halves, leaving at least ¼ inch all the way around so that you have a shell. Mince the eggplant you removed and stir it into the mixture in the pan. Fill each shell with some of the vegetables, pour equal amounts of tomato sauce on each one, and return them to the oven for another 30 minutes. Cut each eggplant into 5 portions and place them on a platter. Sprinkle the garnish parsley over the top. Serve hot or at room temperature. 6 small Italian eggplants (about 4 pounds) 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra 2 red onions, thinly sliced 2 green bell peppers, thinly sliced ¼ cup minced garlic 1½ cups nely chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon minced fresh mint leaves ¼ cup minced Italian parsley Kosher salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce Garnish: 2 tablespoons minced parsley MAKES SERVINGSWO R L D PA R T Y 1 27 NE W Z E AL AN D fD u p Thk uqImdmv FPl P—d’ .Pkd.dv hk mdf Pv dy—PI —TP—qOmqy e PIhwPIh d’ qj — —TIPPTqj Ik mqI—T qy j uw.dmv p TPIP dl Ihuj .—jId. uIqbk OPIPb.qj l TPv yqI —TPyhIk——hf Phma PO o Pd.dmv Shuck the corn and grill them until browned. If you don’t have a grill, broil them on a baking sheet, turning them over as needed to brown all sides. Let them cool completely. Cut o the kernels and place them in a bowl. Add the peas, cucumber, watercress, scallions, and tomato and mix. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, cayenne, garlic powder, and salt. Pour over the vegetables and mix well. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate until needed. Let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. 3 medium corn cobs 1 cup cooked fresh peas or frozen and thawed 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced 4 ounces watercress, washed and coarsely chopped ⅓ cup sliced scallion ¾ cup diced tomato 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar Pinch cayenne pepper ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt MAKE AHEAD TIP This can be made a day ahead. Combine all ingredients as instructed, except the watercress and tomato. Mix those in just before serving. A ter cutting o the corn kernels, keep the cobs to make corn stock. To easily cut o kernels, hold down the cob rmly in a large bowl and cut down along the cob. The kernels collect in the bowl rather than all over your counter. TIPS MAKES TO SERVINGS196 ROBERTA ROBERTIV EN E Z U EL A V EN E Z U EL A h r u f IPbdk uqImf Pd. udwPk dIPbqbj .dI —TIqj l Tqj —Aqj —T f PIhud ’ j —s PmPLj P.d hk bdI—huj .dI.Y wmqOmyqI —TPf dmv —TPYWIPd FPIY bqbj .dI k—IPP—yqqv —TPIP IPbh—dk f Pdmk ).h——.PdIPbdkU In a medium bowl, combine the masarepa, salt, and egg. Have 2 cups water ready and begin adding water to the bowl and mix it in. Add just enough for a rm dough to form. Let the dough rest for about 10 minutes. Take about 1 heaping tablespoon of the dough, roll it into a ball, then atten it out in the palm of your hand. Place about a teaspoon of cheese in the center and close the dough around it. Roll it up and atten it again. Repeat with the remaining dough and cheese. T O F RY Pour a thin layer of oil in a frying pan (preferably cast iron). Have a baking sheet ready and heat the oven to 350° F. Place a few arepitas in the pan and cook, ipping over once, until lightly browned on both sides, about 5 to 8 minutes total. As you remove them from the pan, place them on the baking sheet. When all the arepitas are done, bake for 10 minutes, or until they are set (they should sound hollow when you tap them). T O B RO IL Brush both sides of the arepitas with a little oil. Place them on a baking sheet and broil for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Turn over and broil until tops are golden. Arrange them on a platter with bowls of Black Bean Salsa (recipe at le t) or regular salsa. 2 cups masarepa (arepa our) (see Sidebar p.32) 1½ teaspoons salt 1 large egg, beaten 1½ cup crumbled queso blanco or shredded Muenster or Monterey Jack cheese Cooking oil Black Bean Salsa or regular salsa BL AC K BE A N S A LS A 2 cups cooked black beans (canned is ne) 1 cup nely chopped tomato ½ cup corn ½ cup nely chopped green bell pepper ¼ cup chopped scallions ¼ cup nely chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon minced chile pepper of your choice ½ teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix well. Taste for seasoning and adjust, if necessary. MAKES ABOUTAREPITASWe hope you enjoyed this EYB Book Preview The complete book is available from all major booksellers. Or use the "Buy Book" button and help support EYB.Next >