Taste of Eastern IndiaKankana SaxenaCreator of Playful CookingDelicious, Authentic Bengali Meals You Need to TryTaste of Eastern IndiaKankana Saxena9 781624 1460395 2 1 9 9 >ISBN 978-1-62414-603-9$21.99COOKING / Regional & Ethnic / Indian & South Asian$21.99 USPREMIUM BINDINGSTAYSOPENHANDSFREEBengali native Kankana Saxena captures the wealth of intoxicating dishes and depths of flavor that are fundamental to the Bengali community with savory stews, fragrant rice dishes, zesty spice blends and iconic street foods. Each recipe preserves the authenticity of traditional Indian cuisine but with a modern approach specific to the Eastern region—such as Chicken Shingara, which is similar to an Indian samosa, but in Kolkata they’re smaller, spicier and deep-fried. There’s Chaana Kaju Torkari, which features paneer (Indian cottage cheese) that is rolled into dumplings for a hearty stew. Meanwhile, Fulkopir Aachar reinvents Indian spiced cauliflower as a show-stopping pickled condiment. Brimming with culinary tradition and adventure, this rich collection of recipes transports you to the bustling streets of Kolkata, where the food is as fun to make as it is to eat. Kankana Saxena is the founder of the popular food blog Playful Cooking, whichhas been featured on Saveur, The Kitchn, the Huffington Post and Buzzfeed. She is a recipe developer and food photographer, and she collaborates with brands to create recipes and photographs for their products. A native Bengali, she currently lives in California with her husband and son. The Vibrant Flavors of Bengali CuisineBrought to Your Home Kitchen“ Kankana has brought the world of Bengali flavors, spices and dishes into the home of the everyman with this new classic cookbook. She has truly created a masterpiece of cultural cuisine.”—Eva Kosmas Flores, author of First We Eat and creator of Adventures In Cooking“ Kankana’s gorgeous recipes and mouthwatering photography have long leaped out at me. What a thrill to have them packaged in this beautiful and thoroughly modern Bengali cookbook.”—Mallika Basu, columnist for the London Evening Standard, author of Miss Masala“ Taste of Eastern India is a beautiful introduction to Bengali cuisine through a fresh and modern lens.”—Chitra Agrawal, owner of Brooklyn Delhi, author of Vibrant India6 Taste of Eastern India IntroductionMy love for food didn’t start at an early age. I was picky and a very slow eater. Mealtime was boring for me and I never looked forward to it. Occasionally, my younger brother used to prepare snacks and breakfast for us. However, I never had the interest to even enter the kitchen. The very fi rst time I cooked a dish was when I was probably in 8th grade. Ma was not well, Baba was traveling for work and my brother had an exam. So, I had to help Ma in whatever way I could to put a meal together for us three. She never approved of eating out, and homemade food was always the route. I remember making a very simple mixed vegetable stew. Ma was guiding me through the steps and I followed them to the letter. To my surprise, it turned out quite tasty and even my brother, who is a very tough critic, went for a second serving. Even though I was very happy and motivated to cook more, it took me many more years to actually enter the kitchen with a happy heart.When I left home and started to live on my own in a diff erent city, the biggest challenge, as expected, was making a decent meal. Most often, I would go for takeout or survive on instant noodles or toast with an egg. Food for me was just fuel to survive, and I would eat it without really enjoying it.Then came a time in my life when I started to travel across the globe for work. Visiting those diff erent places, meeting new people, eating together with them and sharing stories did some kind of magic to my appetite. Whenever my brother would call me and ask about my trip, the fi rst thing I used to talk about was the food that I tried and liked. My brother’s reply used to be, “You are talking about food!” Slowly, I started to make more visits to the grocery store and try my hand with these dishes. Eventually, I realized that cooking helped me release all the stress. I started to enjoy my time in the kitchen, and the entire process made me happier.When I moved to the United States after marrying my boyfriend of four years, I had to leave my job and get on a visa that didn’t allow me to work. For the fi rst two months, I loved the break—no morning rush, no deliverables and no meetings. I spent a lot of time binge-watching some good old TV shows. Then, one afternoon after a long chat with my friend Deepa, I decided to start a food blog. I seriously had no idea about this blogging world, but I fi gured it would be a nice way to use those ample free hours that I had in hand. Arvind, my husband, helped me with all the technical stuff and we came up with a blog called Sunshine and Smile. After a few years, the name started to bother me, so I changed it to Playful Cooking. It became my culinary playground where I shared my love for food, photography and memories made at every meal!In my blog, I share diff erent kinds of dishes because that’s how we eat on a daily basis. Arvind is not Bengali. He is from northern India, and coming from two diff erent food cultures has made our day-to-day meals quite an interesting blend of cuisines. While writing this book, I wanted to go back to my roots and bring more awareness to Bengali cuisine. It’s much more than just roshogolla and macher jhol! This book is not an extension of my blog. It’s a diff erent journey altogether, where I turned my multi-cuisine kitchen into a Bengali kitchen and went back to my roots. A Little Bit about Bengali Culture and FoodKnown for their love of food, music and literature, the Bengali population lives mainly in the northeastern part of the South Asian subcontinent. But regardless of which part of the world they live in, they like to carry on with their traditions and culture, their festivals and celebrations. It’s a vital part of life for Bengalis all over the world.I was born and brought up in a small hill station, Shillong, in northeastern India. Both my parents are Bengalis and I grew up following the authentic Bengali tradition: listening to Rabindra Sangeet (songs written and composed by the late poet Rabindranath Tagore) and even trying to learn them as a kid, and watching Ma drape a crisp cotton saree eff ortlessly every single day, which for me is the most beautiful attire. 7I especially love the white saree with the vibrant red border that is typically worn on any festive occasion and is the pride of Bengali culture.Bengalis’ love for food is legendary. I grew up in a family where everybody loves food, everybody knows how to cook and when we all get together, there is always a lot to eat. Whether it’s a weekday or a weekend or a celebration of a festival, an array of dishes is prepared and served in sequential order. That’s the Bengali way of eating! An everyday menu always includes a lentil stew with some fried vegetables or fried fi sh, followed by a vegetarian dish. Then comes the nonvegetarian curry, mostly fi sh, and on weekends, poultry or meat. In summer, the meal ends with a tangy stew or sweet-spicy chutney. But if it’s a special occasion, after the chutney, there is a sweet treat. Dig deep and you will realize that it’s a well-balanced meal incorporating every single fl avor from bitter to spicy to sour to sweet.Bengali meals are served in either brass or stainless steel plates and bowls. Rice is served with ghee on the plate along with lemon wedges and a pinch of salt. The rest of the items are served in tiny bowls following the pattern of lighter to richer. These bowls are placed in order around the plate, making it extremely visually appealing. Forks and knives are never involved; instead, food is eaten with clean hands. We like to embrace the texture of the food with our fi ngers before putting it in our mouth. This eating habit is not considered unhealthy, but is said to stimulate your digestive juices.About This BookBengali cooking is often symbolized by the pungent aroma of smoky mustard oil followed by the nutty whiff of paanch phoron, a traditional spice blend, crackling in the hot oil. Most often that is the only fl avor component used in a dish. Bengali cooking doesn’t always involve a lot of spices, as most of the dishes have subtle fl avor with a hint of heat from fresh green chillies. Chilli powder is very rarely used. Even the Bengali gorom moshla is quite smooth in fl avor, prepared with just three whole spices. The dishes are often slow cooked to create a delicate taste. Baking and roasting are not practiced. Rice is the primary staple, and freshwater fi sh is the dominant kind of protein used in everyday meals. Although mustard oil is the primary choice for cooking oil, these days this pungent oil is being restricted to certain rich dishes only. Instead, vegetable oil, referred to as shada tel (white oil), is being used for regular cooking. The various traders and invaders who have made Bengal their home in the past had a huge infl uence on the food culture. These infl uences made the fl avor of Bengali cuisine unique and vibrant, yet it’s still simple cooking with everyday ingredients. In this book, throughout the diff erent chapters, I share some of the dishes that I grew up eating, ranging from comfort food to street food. Every family has its own version of these dishes, and I share what I learned from my Ma. We grew up eating seasonal food. Even today, Baba will stop by at the market every other day and bring home a bag full of fresh vegetables and freshwater fi sh. Chicken and mutton are left for weekends, and again these are always purchased fresh in the morning. Even today, my parents follow the same ritual.I have stayed true to the authenticity of the cuisine. The chapters are aligned as per the courses served. The meal often starts with hearty lentils or a simple veggie mash paired with some deep-fried fritters. Then comes the pure vegetarian main dishes, followed by a meat, fi sh or egg main dish, which is then followed by something tangy or a sweet chutney. On weekends or special occasions, the meal always ends with dessert. In the last chapter, I took a detour from the authenticity and gave a fun little twist to some of the Bengali dishes, so that chapter is a blend of sweet and savory appetizers and mains. None of the dishes are extremely diffi cult to prepare. I added notes, tips and any kind of alternative that might be applicable. If you have your pantry stocked with the commonly used spice mixes, getting a Bengali meal ready won’t be any hassle. Through this book, I hope to bring out the essences of Bengal. I hope these dishes will inspire you to cook and that you will enjoy it as much as I do.26 Taste of Eastern India Ilish Biryani (Hilsa Fish in Flavored Rice Pilaf)Serves 4Most coastal regions have their own versions of fish biryani. Similarly, Bengalis have their own version too, and it is often prepared with hilsa fish. Unlike the chicken biryani, ilish biryani is subtle in flavor and not heavily spiced. Hilsa fish is an oily, aromatic, freshwater fish. To retain the flavor of the fish, this biryani is not overloaded with spice or heat. This is one of those dishes that takes time and attention, but at the end it will feel worth the effort. Key Notes: Hilsa fish has a lot of bones, which might be challenging if you aren’t used to eating this fish. You can prepare the same dish using any big fish fillet. Catfish or salmon would be a good substitute.4 fillets hilsa fish1 cup (211 g) basmati rice1 red onion Oil for deep-frying 1 tbsp (8 g) cumin seeds2 cups (490 g) thick plain Greek yogurt1 tbsp (10 g) garlic paste1 tbsp (10 g) ginger paste2 tsp (10 g) salt, divided1 tsp chilli powder2 tbsp (29 g) ghee2 bay leaves5 green cardamom pods1 mace 1 cinnamon stick6 cloves1½ cups (355 ml) water1 tbsp (15 ml) vegetable oil2 tbsp (30 ml) milk5 green chilliesClean the hilsa fish fillets and set aside.Using a colander, wash the rice in several changes of water and leave it in the colander to drain any excess water. Peel the red onion and cut the top and bottom. Then cut the onion in half and cut each half into thin half-moon slices. Place a deep saucepan over medium-high heat and pour in the oil. Layer a plate with a kitchen towel and set aside. Once the oil is hot, add the sliced onion and stir with a slotted spoon until the onion turns golden brown in color. It will take about 10 minutes. Once done, layer the fried onions on the kitchen towel. In a couple of minutes the fried onion should turn crispy. Remove one-third of the fried onion and crush.Place a pan over medium-high heat, and when the pan is hot, dry roast the cumin seeds for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the cumin seeds. Next, in a large mixing bowl, whisk the yogurt with the roasted ground cumin, garlic and ginger pastes, crushed fried onion, 1 teaspoon of the salt and the chilli powder. Add the hilsa fillet carefully to the mixing bowl and coat the fillet with the yogurt mixture. It will look like a lot of marinade for 5 fillets, but the yogurt mixture will be cooked to make the sauce that goes in the biryani. Cover the bowl and allow the fish to marinate for 30 minutes. (continued)28 Taste of Eastern India Ilish Biryani (Continued)After 30 minutes, start making the rice. Heat the ghee in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and add the bay leaves, cardamom, mace, cinnamon and cloves. Allow the whole spices to sizzle for a few seconds, and then add the washed and drained rice on top. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and stir the rice for 2 minutes. Then pour in the water, stir and bring the water to a boil. Once the water starts boiling, turn the heat down to medium and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes or until the water is absorbed and the rice is partially cooked. As the rice cooks, place another pan over medium-high heat. Pour in the vegetable oil. Once the pan heats up, remove the fish fillets from the yogurt mixture and carefully place in the pan. Fry for 3 minutes on each side. Transfer to a separate plate. To the same pan, pour in the rest of the yogurt mixture and cook, stirring occasionally. Once the oil releases from the sides, which will happen in about 7 minutes, turn off the heat. The next step is to layer the rice and slow cook for 20 minutes, which can be done either in the oven or on the stovetop. If you are planning to use the oven, you’ll need a large ovenproof casserole dish; if you plan to use the stovetop, you’ll need a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Oven method: Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C).Brush some ghee on the bottom of the casserole, then layer half of the partially cooked rice, followed by half of the spiced yogurt sauce from the pan. (Don’t add the fish fillet yet.) Then pour in the milk and add on half of the crispy fried onion. Next, layer the rest of the rice, the rest of the yogurt sauce and the fish fillets. Press the fish fillets down gently. Poke the green chillies all around with a sharp knife. Add them around the fish fillets. Finally, add the rest of the crispy fried onions on top. Tightly cover the casserole dish with aluminum foil and place it on the middle rack of the oven. Bake for 20 minutes. Stovetop method: Follow the same layering procedure as for the oven method, but in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Place the saucepan over medium-low heat, cover the pan and allow it to slow cook for 20 minutes. Serve warm. Plant-Based Main Dishes 87 Chaana Ka ju Torkari (Cottage Cheese Dumplings in Creamy Cashew Gravy)Serves 2If you are familiar with Indian cooking, you must be aware of paneer, or Indian cottage cheese. Chaana is the fresh cottage cheese that is pressed to make paneer. In Bengali cooking, fresh chaana is used a lot in savory dishes. Instead of pressing the fresh cheese to form chunks of paneer, it’s kneaded and then rolled into dumplings. The most common way to prepare a chaana stew is with potato chunks in a mildly-spiced gravy. I like to prepare it a little differently with creamy cashew and yogurt.1 cup (230 g) chaana (page 13)1 tbsp (8 g) all-purpose flour½ tsp ground turmeric, divided 1 tsp salt, divided10 cashews¼ cup (61 g) thick Greek yogurt3 tbsp (45 ml) oil, divided1-inch (3-cm) cinnamon stick3 green cardamom pods2 bay leaves1 tbsp (8 g) grated ginger½ cup (123 g) tomato puree½ tsp sugar¼ tsp chilli powder1 tbsp (8 g) bhaja moshla (page 11)½ cup (118 ml) water ½ tsp gorom moshla (page 11) 2 tbsp (6 g) finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves Place the fresh chaana on a plate or chopping board and knead it like you would knead bread dough. Knead it for about 7 minutes or until the fresh chaana feels soft and your palms feel a little oily. Once done, sprinkle with the flour, ¼ teaspoon of the turmeric and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Knead again to mix everything together. Divide the dough into 10 portions and make smooth round dumplings out of the dough. Flatten the dumplings lightly and set aside on a plate. Using a spice blender, grind the cashews to a fine powder. Combine the yogurt and cashew powder in a bowl and set aside. Place a nonstick pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the oil. When the oil heats up, carefully layer the chaana dumplings and fry for 1 minute on each side. Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate. In the same pan, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of oil and add the cinnamon stick, cardamom and bay leaves. Allow them to sizzle for a few seconds and then add the grated ginger and tomato puree. Sprinkle on the sugar, remaining ½ teaspoon of salt, remaining ¼ teaspoon of turmeric, chilli powder and bhaja moshla. Stir and cook for 5 minutes. Add the yogurt and cashew mixture and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the water, fried chaana and gorom moshla and simmer for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the fresh cilantro leaves and serve warm.Next >