The chefs, bartenders, and bakers celebrated within the pages of this book are committed to making Seattle one of the best food cities in the country. At a time when foodie argot—“farm to table,” “locally grown,” and “organic”—has become a part of everyday vocabulary and “hippie food” is no longer pejorative, we have access to high-quality products that are being expressed on many levels, from food trucks to fast casual to fine dining. We consume some of the best seafood, wine, charcuterie, and foraged produce in the country without making a reservation, donning a tie, or, in the case of food delivery, putting on pants (metaphorically speaking). It’s never been easier to get our hands on great food, even if those hands are busy ordering from an app. As the city’s population stretches to an almost uncomfortable girth, competition in the restau-rant industry has swelled also. Entry level into the game now requires great technique and the best products. For a long time, Seattle cuisine mainly consisted of Thai, French, Mexican, and Italian. Now, we’re seeing Malaysian, Latin American, and the cuisines of specific regions of Mexico. Because travel and information are more Seattle has changed dramatically in just a few short years. Some suggest that the city has finally evolved from a collection of homespun neighbor-hoods into a sophisticated enclave of high-end dining and luxury homes, while others bemoan encroaching biospheres and the collapse of rooftop water views. One thing is for certain: the foodscape has never been more robust. How did it get that way? Let’s look at what makes Seattle tick. You can’t really describe the restaurant scene here without reference to what makes this city, well, a city. Much of Seattle’s character has been shaped by the busi-nesses that operate among us. We’ve collectively scooted over to make room for some notable multinational corporations—Microsoft, Boeing, Amazon, F5 Networks, Nintendo, Facebook, Apple, and Google—that have rebranded Seattle as a metropolis. And those same megacorps are creating well-paying jobs that, in turn, create an environment of consumers who can afford to dine out (among other things). And that is having a trickle-down effect on the food scene, most noticeably in terms of options. It’s much easier for chefs to cook good food when the demand is high. 1IntroductionIf you’re someone who’s active in the local dining scene, many of these recipes will prob-ably seem familiar. Not all are easy—you’ll find techniques for every skill set—but all are mean-ingful in some way to the artisans who created them. Seattle Cooks is a collection of signature dishes, coveted recipes, original menu items, and tributes to restaurants we wish had never closed. Now, go out and support your neighborhood eateries—they’re showcasing their best work!accessible than ever, chefs are able to explore and shift their interests. Fortunate is the Seattle diner who gets to reap these rewards. For as much expansion as Seattle has under-gone in a short amount of time, its restaurant community seems to be getting smaller by the day. While talking to the fine men and women featured in this book, I realized how intimate an industry it really is. Almost every participant is connected to another in some way; they’re all intertwined, whether they worked together in the same kitchen at some point in their careers or gained tutelage from a shared mentor. Seattle Cooks is like the book version of a family tree, with recipes serving as the branches. Everyone in this book has learned from everyone else in this book. And now, you’re about to learn from all of them. 2 Introduction 8 Altura Nathan Lockwood 14 Barking Frog Bobby Moore 18 Barrio Casey Robison 22 Brimmer & Heeltap Mike Whisenhunt 28 ChefSteps Grant Crilly 32 Cook Weaver Zac Reynolds 38 Copine Shaun McCrain 42 Dahlia Lounge Tom Douglas & Brock Johnson 48 E. Smith Mercantile Jessie & Kate Poole 52 Gracia Chester Gerl 56 Heartwood Provisions Varin Keokitvon & Amanda Reed 60 Hello Robin Robin Wehl Martin 64 Hitchcock Brendan McGill 70 Jack’s BBQ Jack Timmons 74 Kedai Makan Kevin Burzell 78 Little Fish Zoi Antonitsas 82 Mamnoon Carrie Mashaney 86 Manu’s Bodega Manu Alfau 92 Marmite Bruce Naftaly 96 Marseille Brandin Myett & Liz Pachaud 102 Mbar Jason Stratton 108 Metropolitan Grill Eric Hellner 114 Nue Chris Cvetkovich 118 Oddfellows Cafe + Bar Myles Burroughs 122 Orfeo Kevin Davis 126 Poppy Jerry Traunfeld 130 Poquitos Manny Arce 134 Porkchop & Co. Paul Osher 138 Revel Rachel Yang 142 Rider David Nichols 148 RockCreek Eric Donnelly 156 San Fermo Samuel West 162 Scout Derek Simcik 168 Single Shot Brad Kelleher 172 Stoneburner Jason Stoneburner 178 Surrell Aaron Tekulve 184 Sushi Kappo Tamura Taichi Kitamura 188 Tavolàta Ethan Stowell 192 Terra Plata Tamara Murphy 196 Vendemmia Brian ClevengerThe RestaurantsDahlia Lounge / Tom Douglas & Brock Johnson 45SERVES 4 (MAKES 8)Chef Tom Douglas discovered the delight of sweet, briny, meaty Dungeness crab for the first time after moving to Seattle at the age of 19. He added fresh Dungeness crab cakes to his Café Sport menu, where they became an instant hit, and 35 years later, they are as popular as ever. Douglas uses panko (or Japanese) bread crumbs, which are coarser than ordinary bread crumbs but remain crisp once fried. Panko can be found in Japanese fish markets and many large supermarkets.LEMON VINAIGRETTE1 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice2 tsp finely chopped shallots2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oilKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to tasteDUNGENESS CRAB CAKES1 lb fresh Dungeness crabmeat, drained and picked clean of shells1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods2 Tbsp plus 2 tsp grated lemon zest1/4 cup finely chopped scallions, white and green parts1/2 tsp kosher salt1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper21/2 cups panko bread crumbs (divided) 5 Tbsp (1/2 stick plus 1 Tbsp) unsalted butter (divided)ASSEMBLY5 cups arugula leaves, washed and dried4 lemon wedgesDungeness Crab Cakes with Arugula and Lemon VinaigretteLEMON VINAIGRETTE In a small bowl, combine lemon juice and shallots and whisk in oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.DUNGENESS CRAB CAKES If crabmeat is wet, lightly squeeze the meat to remove excess moisture. In a large bowl, combine crabmeat, mayonnaise, lemon zest, scallions, salt, and pepper and mix with a rubber spatula. Add 1/2 cup panko and stir to combine. Put remaining 2 cups panko in a shallow bowl. Form the crab mixture into eight patties, 1 inch thick, patting gently into shape. Put a patty into the panko and turn to coat both sides, patting it to shake off the excess. Transfer to a tray, then repeat with the remaining patties. Chill in the fridge for at least 1 hour.Preheat oven to 450°F. Set two large ovenproof skillets over medium-high heat and melt 21/2 tablespoons butter in each pan. Add four crab cakes to each pan and fry for 1 minute. Place pans in the oven and cook for 6 minutes. Flip the crab cakes over, then cook for another 6 minutes, until heated through and golden brown on both sides. ASSEMBLY Arrange two crab cakes on each plate. Put arugula in a bowl and toss with enough vinaigrette to coat leaves. (You may not need to use all the vinaigrette.) Season with salt to taste. Arrange a pile of arugula salad next to the crab cakes and add a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.Poquitos / Manny Arce 133SERVES 6SALSA DE CILANTRO Y YERBA BUENA Combine all ingredients except the olive oil and salt in a blender and blend on high. With the blender running, gradually add oil and blend until emulsified. Season to taste with salt. Transfer to a small serving bowl and refrigerate until use.LEG OF LAMB In a small bowl, combine oil, garlic, and herbs and mix well. Rub mixture over lamb, then marinate in airtight container in the refrig-erator for at least 12 hours. Preheat a gas or coal grill to 350°F. Generously season lamb with salt and pepper, put onto the hottest part of the grill, and sear for 5 minutes on each side, rotating 3 to 4 times. Move lamb to the least hot part of grill, cover, and cook for 30 to 45 minutes. Rotate every 10 to 15 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 133°F to 138°F and the lamb is medium rare. Transfer the leg of lamb to a cutting board and set aside to rest for 10 to 15 minutes. While the lamb is resting, grill the lime halves for 5 minutes until charred.PLATING Untie and slice the lamb. Place on a serving platter and serve with salsa de cilantro y yerba buena, pepitas, fresh and grilled limes, and fresh herbs.SALSA DE CILANTRO Y YERBA BUENA2 cups fresh cilantro leaves1 cup fresh Italian parsley leaves1/4 cup pepitas6 serrano peppers1/4 cup white wine vinegar1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice1/2 cup olive oilSalt, to tasteLEG OF LAMB1/4 cup olive oil10 cloves garlic, thinly sliced2 Tbsp plus 2 tsp fresh oregano1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves1 boneless leg of lamb, rolled and tied (ask your butcher)Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste2 limes, one halved, one cut in wedges1/4 cup pepitasFresh herbs, such as scallions, cilantro, mint leaves, and Italian parsley, to serveGrilled Leg of Lamb with Salsa de Cilantro y Yerba BuenaNext >