CAFE C OO KB OO K COLLEC TED RECIPES AND ST ORIES JASON HAMMEL18 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 18 THE BUILDING BLOCKS 18 ON MEASUREMENTS AND TIME 19 A DREAM 19 SOFFRITO: THE ROOT OF THE TREE 20 ON SEASONING 20 OUR INGREDIENTS 21 USING YOUR FANCY BLENDER 22 THE IMPORTANCE OF STRAINING 22 OUR MENU INTRODUCTION 7 A GUIDE 18 24 CAFÉ CLASSICS 44 BRUNCH 82 SOUPS 94 SNACKS 124 SALADS 150 VEGETABLES 174 PASTA AND ONE RISOTTO 196 MEAT AND FISH 228 DESSERTS 244 BUILDING BLOCKS RECIPES 24 INDEX 260 OUR COLLABORATORS 258 ON HOSPITALITY 16 ART AT L ULA 25618 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 18 THE BUILDING BLOCKS 18 ON MEASUREMENTS AND TIME 19 A DREAM 19 SOFFRITO: THE ROOT OF THE TREE 20 ON SEASONING 20 OUR INGREDIENTS 21 USING YOUR FANCY BLENDER 22 THE IMPORTANCE OF STRAINING 22 OUR MENU INTRODUCTION 7 A GUIDE 18 24 CAFÉ CLASSICS 44 BRUNCH 82 SOUPS 94 SNACKS 124 SALADS 150 VEGETABLES 174 PASTA AND ONE RISOTTO 196 MEAT AND FISH 228 DESSERTS 244 BUILDING BLOCKS RECIPES 24 INDEX 260 OUR COLLABORATORS 258 ON HOSPITALITY 16 ART AT L ULA 256BRUNCH Served every day of the week, until the kitchen closes to prepare for dinner, our seasonal brunch specials bring the more refined techniques and specialized ingredients that we use at dinner, but in a casual setting. BRUNCH Served every day of the week, until the kitchen closes to prepare for dinner, our seasonal brunch specials bring the more refined techniques and specialized ingredients that we use at dinner, but in a casual setting. 05 20 5958 MAKE THE CANDIED PECANS Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the pecans on the baking sheet and toast for 7 minutes. Remove from the oven but leave the oven on. Combine the honey, sugar, 2 tablespoons water, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the toasted pecans and stir with a heatproof spatula, coating the nuts in the syrup. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until there is no liquid left at the bottom of the pan. Transfer the nuts back to the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, until the pecans are nicely caramelized and no longer sticky. MAKE THE TURMERIC GRANOLA With the oven still at 350°F/180°C, line another baking sheet with parchment paper. Bring 1 quart (1 liter) of water to a boil in a saucepan set over high heat. Remove from the heat and add the millet and quinoa. Soak for 30 minutes, then drain. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oats, sunflower seeds, and sesame seeds. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and cook until the solids are golden brown and lightly caramelized with a nutty fragrance. Add the turmeric, coriander, fenugreek, and black pepper, then immediately remove from the heat. Add this butter-spice mixture to the oat mixture and stir to combine. In a separate large saucepan, combine the honey, brown sugar, and salt. Cook over low heat until melted and smooth, then pour in the oat mixture and the soaked grains. Stir thoroughly to combine. Spread the mixture out on the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes, rotating the pan and stirring the mixture every 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the candied pecans, raisins, and dates. Allow to cool and store in an airtight container. SERVES 4 Candied Pecans 2 cups (73/4 oz/220 g) pecans 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup (2 oz/50 g) sugar ¼ teaspoon salt Turmeric Granola ¼ cup (2 oz/50 g) millet ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon (2¼ oz/60 g) quinoa 1¾ cup (5½ oz/160 g) rolled oats ¾ cup (3½ oz/100 g) sunflower seeds 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 31/4 oz (90 g) butter ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon ground fenugreek ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1/3 cup (21/2 fl oz/75 g) honey ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons (2¾ oz/70 g) brown sugar ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup (2½ oz/60 g) golden raisins, chopped ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon (2 oz/50 g) dates, chopped Full of texture, five different cereals, grains, and seeds, fresh local pecans from Three Sisters Garden, chewy morsels of dates and golden raisins, and a totally addictive combination of brown butter and spices, this granola has become my go-to snack. So much so that the sous chefs hide it from me; my daily snacks were throwing off the pars. We serve it with house-made yogurt, seasonal fruit, a drizzle of olive oil, and leaves of herbs and flowers. But you do you. Add a dice of juicy fresh fruit like apples or berries, or maybe pomegranates, mandarin slices, grapes tossed with lemon—whatever you crave, whatever looks good at the market, whatever keeps you going through the day. BRUNCH BROWN BUTTER TURMERIC GRANOLA05 20 5958 MAKE THE CANDIED PECANS Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the pecans on the baking sheet and toast for 7 minutes. Remove from the oven but leave the oven on. Combine the honey, sugar, 2 tablespoons water, and salt in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the toasted pecans and stir with a heatproof spatula, coating the nuts in the syrup. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until there is no liquid left at the bottom of the pan. Transfer the nuts back to the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, until the pecans are nicely caramelized and no longer sticky. MAKE THE TURMERIC GRANOLA With the oven still at 350°F/180°C, line another baking sheet with parchment paper. Bring 1 quart (1 liter) of water to a boil in a saucepan set over high heat. Remove from the heat and add the millet and quinoa. Soak for 30 minutes, then drain. In a large mixing bowl, combine the oats, sunflower seeds, and sesame seeds. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat and cook until the solids are golden brown and lightly caramelized with a nutty fragrance. Add the turmeric, coriander, fenugreek, and black pepper, then immediately remove from the heat. Add this butter-spice mixture to the oat mixture and stir to combine. In a separate large saucepan, combine the honey, brown sugar, and salt. Cook over low heat until melted and smooth, then pour in the oat mixture and the soaked grains. Stir thoroughly to combine. Spread the mixture out on the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 45 minutes, rotating the pan and stirring the mixture every 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the candied pecans, raisins, and dates. Allow to cool and store in an airtight container. SERVES 4 Candied Pecans 2 cups (73/4 oz/220 g) pecans 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup (2 oz/50 g) sugar ¼ teaspoon salt Turmeric Granola ¼ cup (2 oz/50 g) millet ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon (2¼ oz/60 g) quinoa 1¾ cup (5½ oz/160 g) rolled oats ¾ cup (3½ oz/100 g) sunflower seeds 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 31/4 oz (90 g) butter ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground coriander ¼ teaspoon ground fenugreek ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1/3 cup (21/2 fl oz/75 g) honey ¼ cup + 2 tablespoons (2¾ oz/70 g) brown sugar ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup (2½ oz/60 g) golden raisins, chopped ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon (2 oz/50 g) dates, chopped Full of texture, five different cereals, grains, and seeds, fresh local pecans from Three Sisters Garden, chewy morsels of dates and golden raisins, and a totally addictive combination of brown butter and spices, this granola has become my go-to snack. So much so that the sous chefs hide it from me; my daily snacks were throwing off the pars. We serve it with house-made yogurt, seasonal fruit, a drizzle of olive oil, and leaves of herbs and flowers. But you do you. Add a dice of juicy fresh fruit like apples or berries, or maybe pomegranates, mandarin slices, grapes tossed with lemon—whatever you crave, whatever looks good at the market, whatever keeps you going through the day. BRUNCH BROWN BUTTER TURMERIC GRANOLA09 18 104105 SERVES 4 Socca ¾ cup (3½ oz/100 g) gram (chickpea) flour 1 tablespoon alternative gluten-free flour ½ teaspoon active dried yeast ¼ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking powder Vegetable oil spray Chickpea Crumble 1 cup (4 ½ oz/135 g) canned (tinned) chickpeas 1 teaspoon toasted caraway seeds ½ teaspoon grated ginger ¼ teaspoon ginger powder ½ teaspoon granulated onion Pinch of salt Charred Apple Honey 1 apple (7 oz/200 g), peeled, cored, and diced 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup (113/4 oz/340 g) honey ¼ oz/10 g piece of ginger, peeled and sliced Compressed Apple 33/4 oz (115 g) apple, halved and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons olive oil Small pinch salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon thyme leaves To Serve 160 g (51/2 oz) Ricotta (page 254, or shop-bought) Thyme sprigs MAKE THE SOCCA Add all the ingredients except the vegetable spray to a blender with a generous 1 cup (8 fl oz/255 g) water and purée for 4 minutes. Transfer to an airtight container and rest at room temperature for 2 hours. (At this point you can refrigerate for up to 8 hours, but temper the batter before using it.) Heat a nonstick skillet or griddle to medium, greased with a generous amount of vegetable spray. Scoop 2-ounce (50 g) dollops of batter into the pan, cooking them like pancakes. Flip when crispy, about 2 minutes per side. MAKE THE CHICKPEA CRUMBLE Heat the oil in a deep fryer or large, heavy pot to 350°F/180°C, or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Drain and dry the chickpeas by spreading out on paper towels, then fry the chickpeas until dark golden and crispy, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Crush the toasted caraway in a mortar and pestle, then crush the fried chickpeas with a mallet or the bottom of a mixing bowl. Combine the chickpeas and the caraway, then add the grated and dried ginger and dried onion. Check for seasoning. MAKE THE CHARRED APPLE HONEY Toss the diced apples with the olive oil in a stainless steel mixing bowl. Either on a char grill or using the broiler (grill), char the apples until lightly browned and smoky, 2 minutes. Transfer the apples to a small pan with the honey and ginger, and heat on medium until simmering, then turn down the heat to its lowest setting and allow to simmer for at least 1 hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve or tamis. COMPRESS THE APPLES If, like me, you don’t have a cryovac machine at home, simply toss all the ingredients together. If you do have a cryovac, toss all the ingredients together, add them to a cryo bag and compress at a high setting. TO SERVE Top each pancake with a spoonful of ricotta, a scattering of apple slices, and a sprinkle of chickpea crumble. Garnish with thyme sprigs. A socca is farinata by another name, a crêpe-like chickpea snack originally from the Italian Riviera. Our version is more pancake than flatbread, especially since our kitchen is set up for brunch with a large cast-iron gas griddle. Instead of baking the traditionally unleavened batter in the oven, we add yeast and cook it like pancakes on the griddle, creating something more like a chickpea blini. This is a great gluten-free snack and can be served with caviar if you’re feeling luxe. SNACKS CHICKPEA SOCCA WITH APPLE AND HONEY09 18 104105 SERVES 4 Socca ¾ cup (3½ oz/100 g) gram (chickpea) flour 1 tablespoon alternative gluten-free flour ½ teaspoon active dried yeast ¼ teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking powder Vegetable oil spray Chickpea Crumble 1 cup (4 ½ oz/135 g) canned (tinned) chickpeas 1 teaspoon toasted caraway seeds ½ teaspoon grated ginger ¼ teaspoon ginger powder ½ teaspoon granulated onion Pinch of salt Charred Apple Honey 1 apple (7 oz/200 g), peeled, cored, and diced 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup (113/4 oz/340 g) honey ¼ oz/10 g piece of ginger, peeled and sliced Compressed Apple 33/4 oz (115 g) apple, halved and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons olive oil Small pinch salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon thyme leaves To Serve 160 g (51/2 oz) Ricotta (page 254, or shop-bought) Thyme sprigs MAKE THE SOCCA Add all the ingredients except the vegetable spray to a blender with a generous 1 cup (8 fl oz/255 g) water and purée for 4 minutes. Transfer to an airtight container and rest at room temperature for 2 hours. (At this point you can refrigerate for up to 8 hours, but temper the batter before using it.) Heat a nonstick skillet or griddle to medium, greased with a generous amount of vegetable spray. Scoop 2-ounce (50 g) dollops of batter into the pan, cooking them like pancakes. Flip when crispy, about 2 minutes per side. MAKE THE CHICKPEA CRUMBLE Heat the oil in a deep fryer or large, heavy pot to 350°F/180°C, or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Drain and dry the chickpeas by spreading out on paper towels, then fry the chickpeas until dark golden and crispy, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Crush the toasted caraway in a mortar and pestle, then crush the fried chickpeas with a mallet or the bottom of a mixing bowl. Combine the chickpeas and the caraway, then add the grated and dried ginger and dried onion. Check for seasoning. MAKE THE CHARRED APPLE HONEY Toss the diced apples with the olive oil in a stainless steel mixing bowl. Either on a char grill or using the broiler (grill), char the apples until lightly browned and smoky, 2 minutes. Transfer the apples to a small pan with the honey and ginger, and heat on medium until simmering, then turn down the heat to its lowest setting and allow to simmer for at least 1 hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve or tamis. COMPRESS THE APPLES If, like me, you don’t have a cryovac machine at home, simply toss all the ingredients together. If you do have a cryovac, toss all the ingredients together, add them to a cryo bag and compress at a high setting. TO SERVE Top each pancake with a spoonful of ricotta, a scattering of apple slices, and a sprinkle of chickpea crumble. Garnish with thyme sprigs. A socca is farinata by another name, a crêpe-like chickpea snack originally from the Italian Riviera. Our version is more pancake than flatbread, especially since our kitchen is set up for brunch with a large cast-iron gas griddle. Instead of baking the traditionally unleavened batter in the oven, we add yeast and cook it like pancakes on the griddle, creating something more like a chickpea blini. This is a great gluten-free snack and can be served with caviar if you’re feeling luxe. SNACKS CHICKPEA SOCCA WITH APPLE AND HONEYNext >