Dover Publications, Inc. copyrightDover Publications, Inc. copyright vii IntroductionThe first edition of this book appeared in 1995, when I had been teaching for more than fifteen years. I started my career as a baker and pastry chef in 1973, and I trained largely in Switzerland, France, and Monaco, as well as being heavily influenced by the Italian baking that I had learned at home. As a result, I mostly used classic European techniques and recipes. Writing How to Bake would change me forever as a baker. Of course, life is a series of changes and not only people, but products and equipment continue to evolve. One positive change in the world of baking has been the accessibility I can now offer via the Internet. Feel free to contact me with questions or comments at my website, www.nickmalgieri.com.How to Bake was planned from the start to be a “big book”—indeed, my original working title was “How to Bake Everything,” though that was scotched by my editor. Names aside, writing How to Bake led me to explore and master areas of baking with which I had previously had only a passing acquaintance. Experiments, successes, and failures with quick breads, baking powder biscuits, scones, muffins, yeast- and sourdough-risen breads, and a whole host of pies and tarts—both sweet and savory—cake layers, frostings, “plain” cakes, and yeast-risen pastries all emerged from my tiny apartment kitchen. As I look back, I’m amazed at the sheer quantity of recipes that were developed, repeatedly tested and tasted, and carefully written in the space of a couple of years. The strict rules and techniques that had been so deeply ingrained in me served as a foundation for further learning as I expanded my repertoire exponentially. When it came to certain types of home-baked specialties—not the kinds of desserts I had crafted in a professional pastry kitchen—I was “learning on the job.” That made me especially sensitive to the need for specific instructions. As a result, How to Bake is not just a compendium of recipes for delicious things to eat, but also a handbook of the ideal processes for baking just about anything. Most people who buy a baking book wind up using a couple of recipes 82918-9 How To Bake 1.indd 78/1/18 1:05 PMviii INTRODUCTIONthat they love over and over. I urge you to use How to Bake as a general guide for any baking you do—whether you are following a recipe in these pages or using my work to provide a “second opinion” for a recipe from another source that you wish to try.Baking—like my other favorite pursuits, cooking and gardening—requires patience and attention to detail. Measuring accurately is important, especially when strong ingredients such as leaveners and spices are concerned. But too often students and readers tell me they are put off by the oft-repeated dictum that “baking is a science.” Rest assured that a bit more or less flour or sugar in a recipe will not spell ruin. Above all, baking should be a pleasure—as much in the baking as in the serving and eating.My late friend Peter Fresulone, who was one of my partners in the Total Heaven Baking Company in the early 1980s, always said, “Bake something, you’ll feel better.” And I think his advice is especially good today. Baking is to enjoy—that’s what it’s all about.82918-9 How To Bake 1.indd 88/1/18 1:05 PMDover Publications, Inc. copyrightDover Publications, Inc. copyrightBREADS & ROLLS 57OLIVE BREADSPONGE1 cup warm tap water (about 110 degrees)2¼ teaspoons (1 envelope) active dry or instant yeast1½ cups unbleached bread or all-purpose flourDOUGH2 tablespoons olive oil1¼ to 1½ cups unbleached bread or all-purpose flour2 teaspoons saltAll the sponge, above½ pound olives (1¼ to 1½ cups, to make 1 cup pitted)Cornmeal for bottom of loafONE 8- TO 9-INCH ROUND LOAFI have memories of a bakery in the old town in Nice—le vieux Nice—and an olive bread I bought there, a large, crusty round loaf, with a deliciously strong scent of olives. Unfortunately, the olives had not been pitted and eating the bread was a challenge.For my own version, I have added Kalamata, Niçoise, Gaeta, and jarred Italian oil-cured olives for this coarse white bread. Gaeta olives are my favorite, though they might not be easy to find. All the other olives are good, too, and each contributes a unique flavor to the bread.1. For the sponge, pour the water into a mixing bowl and sprinkle the yeast on the surface. Stir in the flour with a rubber spatula to form a heavy paste. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the sponge rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1 hour.2. For the dough, stir the oil, 1¼ cups of flour, and the salt into the sponge. Knead by hand for about 5 minutes to form a smooth, elastic, and slightly sticky dough. If the dough is too soft, incorporate the remaining flour, a tablespoon at a time.To mix the dough in the food processor, place the sponge, oil, 1¼ cups of flour, and salt in the work bowl fitted with a dough blade. Pulse repeatedly until the dough forms a ball (if the dough will not form a ball, add the remaining flour, a tablespoon at a time, and pulse until the dough forms a ball). Let the dough rest for 5 minutes, then let the machine run continuously for 20 seconds.To mix the dough in a heavy-duty mixer, place the sponge, oil, 1¼ cups of flour, and salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed to form a smooth, elastic, and slightly sticky dough, about 5 minutes. Incorporate the remaining flour, a tablespoon at a time, if the dough is too soft.3. Place the dough in an oiled bowl (you may need the help of a scraper) and turn the dough over so the top is oiled. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise at room temperature until doubled, about 1 hour. If you wish to interrupt the process, let the dough begin to rise, then punch it down, cover 82918-9 How To Bake 1.indd 578/1/18 1:05 PM58 HOW TO BAKEit tightly, and refrigerate. To continue, bring the dough back to room temperature until it begins rising again.4. Turn the risen dough out onto a floured work surface. Press the dough with the palms of your hands to deflate. Knead in the olives until they are evenly distributed throughout, kneading in 3 or 4 tablespoons more flour if the dough is too sticky. Shape the dough into a sphere by tucking the dough under and in toward the center all around the bottom. Invert the dough into a round basket lined with a generously floured napkin or tea towel so the tucked ends are on top. Cover the basket with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise until doubled, about 1 hour.5. When the loaf is almost doubled, set a rack at the middle level of the oven and preheat to 500 degrees. Place a heavy cookie sheet, jelly-roll pan, or baking stone on the rack.6. Sprinkle the top of the loaf with the cornmeal and invert it onto a cardboard round or peel. Slide the risen loaf from the cardboard or peel onto the baking pan or stone. Immediately lower the temperature to 450 degrees.7. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the loaf is well risen and a dark golden color. It should reach an internal temperature of about 210 degrees.8. Cool the loaf on a rack and do not cut it until it is completely cooled.Serving: Serve the olive bread with hors d’oeuvres and first courses; it may be too strong to accompany more delicate foods.Storage: On the day it is baked, keep the bread loosely covered at room temperature. For longer storage, wrap in plastic and freeze for up to 1 month.Hint for SucceSS: While you are kneading in the olives, the dough may become elastic. Let it rest for a few minutes before continuing. You may let it rest several times if necessary.VARIATIONOLIVE AND ROSEMARY BREAD: Add 2 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried to the dough along with the olives.82918-9 How To Bake 1.indd 588/1/18 1:05 PMDover Publications, Inc. copyright232 HOW TO BAKEFRENCH CURRANT DISKS(Palets aux Raisins de CoRinthe)8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened½ cup sugar1 teaspoon vanilla extract2 large eggs1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour¾ cup currantsTwo cookie sheets or jelly-roll pans covered with parchment or foil72 TO 84 COOKIESThis standard French cookie is light and delicate. The currants add a note of richness.1. Set racks at the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.2. In a bowl, beat the softened butter and add the sugar in a stream. Continue beating until the butter/sugar lightens. Add the vanilla, then the eggs, one at a time. Beat until smooth after each addition. Stir in the flour and currants.3. Drop ½-inch mounds of batter on the prepared pans. Bake the cookies for about 12 minutes, or until they have spread and browned lightly at the edges.4. Slide the paper from the pans onto racks to cool the cookies.Serving: These are so delicate, I think of them more as a teatime cookie than a dessert.Storage: Keep in a tin or tight-lidded plastic container.82918-9 How To Bake 2.indd 2327/16/18 12:19 PMDover Publications, Inc. copyrightDover Publications, Inc. copyrightCAKES 2876. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for about 45 minutes, until the cake is well risen and the point of a knife inserted between the side and the tube emerges clean.7. Unmold the cake immediately and cool on a rack.Serving: Serve alone for tea or breakfast or with ice cream or whipped cream for dessert.Storage: Store covered at room temperature or wrap and freeze. Defrost and allow to come to room temperature before serving.BUTTER ALMOND FINANCIER1 cup (about 5 ounces) whole almonds, plus ¼ cup (about 1 ounce) sliced, blanched almonds1½ cups sugar1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter2 tablespoons dark rum2 teaspoons vanilla extract1 cup (about 8 large) egg whitesPinch of saltConfectioners’ sugar for dustingOne 10-inch springform or layer pan, buttered, bottom lined with a disk of parchment or wax paperONE 10-INCH CAKE, 8 TO 10 SERVINGSThe name of this traditional French dessert probably comes from its richness. It is an unusual batter where ground almonds, sugar, and flour and a large quantity of melted butter are folded into egg whites which have been beaten with sugar. Of course, the egg whites fall and liquefy as the butter is folded in, but the financier rises well, nonetheless.1. Set a rack at the middle level of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.2. Place the whole almonds and ¾ cup of the sugar in a food processor and pulse until the mixture is finely ground. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the flour.3. In a saucepan, melt the butter, and add the rum and vanilla extract. Set aside to cool slightly.4. In a clean, dry bowl, whip the egg whites with the salt until they form a very soft peak. Add the remaining ¾ cup of sugar in a very slow stream, whipping constantly. Continue whipping the egg whites until they hold a soft peak.5. Alternately fold the almond and butter mixtures into the egg whites, a third at a time. Begin with the almond mixture and end with the butter.6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Smooth the top and sprinkle with the sliced almonds.82918-9 How To Bake 2.indd 2877/16/18 12:19 PM288 HOW TO BAKE7. Bake the financier for about 50 minutes, until it’s well risen and golden. The center of the cake should feel firm when pressed with the palm of the hand.8. Cool the financier briefly on a rack and remove the pan and paper. If some of the almonds on the surface fall off, replace them on the cake. Dust very lightly with confectioners’ sugar.Serving: Serve the financier for tea or with fruit as a dessert after a meal.Storage: Keep the financier covered, at room temperature, or double-wrap in plastic and freeze for up to 2 months.VARIATIONSHAZELNUT FINANCIER: Substitute 1 cup whole unblanched hazelnuts for the almonds, above.ALMOND AND HAZELNUT FINANCIER: Use ½ cup whole blanched almonds and ½ cup whole unblanched hazelnuts instead of 1 cup almonds, above.BROWN BUTTER FINANCIER (financier au Beurre noiSette): Melt the butter over medium heat in a 2- to 3-quart pan. After the butter has melted, continue cooking it until it foams and darkens slightly. Carefully pour the hot browned butter into a dry heatproof bowl. Allow to cool to lukewarm before using. The brown butter is good with almonds, hazelnuts, or a combination.PISTACHIO FINANCIER: Bring 1½ cups very green, unsalted pistachios to a boil and drain them. Rub off the skins and place the blanched nuts on a jelly-roll pan. Bake them at 300 degrees for 7 or 8 minutes to dry but not color them. Use the blanched pistachios instead of the almonds, above. Substitute kirsch for the rum.82918-9 How To Bake 2.indd 2887/16/18 12:19 PMDover Publications, Inc. copyrightDover Publications, Inc. copyrightWe hope youenjoyed this EYB Book PreviewThe complete book is available from all major booksellers. Or use the "Buy Book" button and help support EYB.Next >