EQUIPMENT1- quart widemouthed glass containerLarge spoonCheesecloth or paper towelRubber band or butcher’s twinepH test strips (optional)INGREDIENTS4 cups beerGREENHOUSE TAVERN– STYLE CRAFT- BEER VINEGARMakes about 1 quartTurning beer into vinegar is an ancient tradition, but we can thank the British for popularizing it. While most of Europe was focused on making wine and wine vinegars, the British were brewing beer and making beer vinegars. You’re probably familiar with these types of vinegars by their more common name: malt vinegar. You know, the one that you sprinkle on fish and chips. Once I owned my own restaurant, Greenhouse Tavern, which held hundreds of feet of drafts lines, it was only natural to begin mass- producing premium craft- beer vinegars. This recipe cemented my sour legacy.When you begin making this vinegar, you’ll want to keep in mind something important. After you mix everything together and as time goes on, you’ll notice a layer of what looks like gelatin growing on the surface. This is the mother of vinegar (see page 13). Without it, the alcohol won’t be converted into vinegar. Make sure to use a beer for this that is 6 to 12 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). And don’t use one that is too hoppy, or your vinegar will be bitter.1 Wash the glass container in hot, soapy water, then rinse and dry thoroughly.2 Pour the beer into the container. Stir with the spoon to dissipate the carbonation, and then let sit for 30 minutes. You want the beer to be flat and not fizzy. 3 Cover the container’s opening with cheesecloth, securing it with a rubber band, to keep out debris.4 Let the container sit in a cool, dry, and dark place for 2 weeks. Then, give the mixture a taste; if it’s sharp, tangy, and sour (like other vinegars you’ve had), it’s now vinegar (It’s perfectly okay to taste; no pathogens can survive in either the alcohol or the vinegar.) If you prefer, you can also judge the progress of your vinegar by using pH strips; we shoot for a reading of 4 or below on the pH scale (see page 234).note When you first taste the mix-ture, if it doesn’t taste like vinegar, that means it either needs more time, oxygen, or alcohol, or a combination of the three. Let it sit for another week and then taste again. If there has been no further change, add a shot of vodka to the ferment in order to feed the mother and wait another week to taste once more. Remember that some vinegars develop very hot profiles while others are mellow; an infinite amount of variables contribute to this. 32HOUSE OF VINEGAREQUIPMENT1- gallon widemouthed glass containerLarge metal bowlCheesecloth or paper towelRubber band or butcher’s twinepH test strips (optional)INGREDIENTS8 pints fresh, ripe, in- season strawberries, washed, hulled, and chopped1⁄4 cup sugarThis is my favorite way to make vinegar due to my fascination with the process of not using alcohol. You start with just strawberries and a little bit of sugar and let the berries and their naturally occurring yeast ferment into wine, and then allow that wine to convert into vinegar. That’s an amazing transformation. This will not taste like a gimmicky strawberry- infused vinegar that you find at a “gourmet” store; it will taste like a full- bodied, intensely flavored, tart strawberry wine vinegar. It’s the perfect way to bring a bit of summery strawberry sunshine to a cold and dreary winter day.1 Wash the glass container in hot, soapy water, then rinse and dry thoroughly.2 Place the strawberries in the bowl, sprinkle them with the sugar, and mix them well.3 Put strawberries into the container. Cover the container’s opening with cheesecloth, securing it with a rubber band, to keep out debris.4 Let the container sit in a cool, dry, and dark place for 3 weeks. Then, give the mixture a taste; if it’s sharp, tangy, and sour (like other vinegars you’ve had), it’s now vinegar. (It’s perfectly okay to taste; no patho-gens can survive in either the alcohol or the vinegar.) If you prefer, you can also judge the progress of your vinegar by using pH strips; we shoot for a reading of 4 or below on the pH scale (see page 234).STRAWBERRY WINE VINEGARMakes about 2 quarts42HOUSE OF VINEGAR3 medium carrots, peeled, plus 1⁄4 cup leafy carrot greens, stems removed1 teaspoon red pepper flakes1 dried bay leaf 1 cup rice vinegar (see variation, page 34)1 cup water1 cup kosher salt1⁄2 cup sugar3 tablespoons fish sauce1 teaspoon carrot seeds (you can find at any good spice merchant or on Amazon)1 teaspoon black peppercornsOne of my favorite sandwiches of all time is the Vietnamese bánh mì. When I lived in New York City, there was a great Vietnamese sandwich joint, Hanco’s, not far from my apartment. I would go there whenever I had a day off and gorge myself. Everything about a bánh mì is great, but for me, what always stands out are the pickles, specifically the pickled carrots. We often overlook carrots as a star ingredient, so I took it upon myself to create a pickled carrot that would be a showstopper. Of course, these carrots work as the garnish to any sandwich, but I like them front and center in a salad, topped with fresh herbs and peanuts.1 Using a mandoline, slice the carrots into 1⁄8- inch- thick planks. Run your knife lengthwise through the planks, cutting into matchsticks. Put the carrots, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf into a 1- quart mason jar.2 In a saucepan over medium- high heat, combine the carrot greens, vinegar, water, salt, sugar, fish sauce, carrot seeds, and peppercorns and bring to a boil. Then, remove from the heat and let the pickling liquid cool a bit (it should still be warm).3 Pour the pickling liquid over the carrots. Allow to cool to room temperature, put the lid on the jar, and transfer to the refrigerator for 48 hours to pickle. The pickle will keep, refrigerated, for up to 3 months.PICKLED CARROTSMakes 1 quart51PickLes2 boneless pork- loin chops, about 12 ounces total, with the fat cap on and minimum trimming2 tablespoons kosher salt1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper1 tablespoon freshly ground coriander1 teaspoon red pepper flakes1 teaspoon animal fat of your choice (such as beef, bacon, chicken, or duck)Salsa verde of your choice (see pages 98 to 103) for servingYou can pair this pork chop with any of the five aforementioned green sauces, all of which have played special roles in my culinary career. If you want to match the seasonings on your pork to the seasoning of your sauce, think about the origin of the spices. So, in place of, or in addition to, the coriander in this version, use cumin for a Cuban pork chop with mojo (see page 99), or fennel for a pork chop with Italian Salsa Verde (page 100).1 Using a knife, make shallow, 1⁄4- inch- thick cuts in a diamond pattern on the fatty side of each loin chop.2 Season the pork with the salt, black pepper, coriander, and red pepper flakes. Transfer to a glass baking dish or plate and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.3 Preheat the oven to 350°F.4 Pat dry the flesh and fat on the chop, to ensure even cooking, leaving as much seasoning on the chop as possible.5 Put the chops, fat- side down, in a cold 12- inch cast- iron skillet, place over medium heat, and sear the chops for 5 minutes. Then, crank the heat to high and cook until the fat side is rendered and a dark mahogany brown color, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the animal fat, flip the chops to the opposite flesh side, and immediately place the skillet into the oven until cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes more.6 Remove the skillet from the oven and baste the chops with some of the fat that has accumulated in the pan. Transfer the chops to a plate, dress with salsa verde, and let them rest for up to 10 minutes. Slice the chops as desired and then dress again with more salsa verde. Serve immediately.MONDAY- NIGHT PORK CHOPS WITH SALSA VERDEServes 298 to 103104HOUSE OF VINEGARNext >