Cacio e Pepe ShortbreadFROM CHARLOTTE DRUCKMANThis is a shortbread cookie that doesn’t quite know if it’s sweet or savory, and in my experience, it doesn’t matter. Every time I set wedges of it out, I explain nothing— at first. Lurkers swarm and empty the plate, without stopping to wonder what genre of snack they’re eating.The recipe comes from the mind of Charlotte Druckman, author of Stir, Sizzle, Bake, a cookbook full of novel ways to use your cast- iron skillet— including this borderline psychedelic one. Druckman was inspired by Blue Bottle Coffee pastry chef Caitlin Freeman’s shortbread dough– whipping technique and chef Mark Ladner’s feisty cacio e pepe; she wondered what would happen if she were to graft a pasta recipe onto a shortbread.She worked in not only the cheeses (cacio) and the black pepper (pepe) but also dried pasta’s traditional semolina flour, which gives the shortbread a hint of warm, wheaty, pasta- like flavor, as well as a softness and a tight, fine-crumb structure. She then baked in one more round of crisp outer texture and toasty flavor by pressing the dough (carefully!) into a hot cast- iron skillet, brushing the top with olive oil, and sprinkling more pepper and cheese over it. Snack on it with your afternoon coffee or aperitifs— Prosecco, Bellinis, rosé, or whatever you like to drink at cocktail hour.MAKES 10 TO 12 WEDGES 1⁄2 cup plus 2 teaspoons (40g) finely grated Parmesan cheese, using the small holes of a box grater 1⁄2 cup plus 2 teaspoons (40g) finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, using the small holes of a box grater 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, at room temperature1⁄2 cup (60g) confectioners’ sugar1 1⁄4 teaspoons kosher salt1 1⁄2 cups (190g) all- purpose flour1⁄2 cup (80g) semolina flour1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra- virgin olive oil1 Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C), with a 10- inch (25cm) cast- iron skillet on the center rack. Stir together 2 teaspoons each of the Parmesan and Pecorino and 1 teaspoon of the pepper in a small bowl.2 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium- low speed until it’s smooth, creamy, and fluffy like cake frosting, about 1 minute. Add the sugar, salt, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of pepper and stir until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a silicone spatula as needed.3 Turn the speed to medium and mix until the mixture takes on a thick, creamy, almost mayonnaise- like texture, 4 to 5 minutes more. Add the flours and stir on low speed until just incorporated. Add the remaining 1⁄2 cup (35g) Parmesan and 1⁄2 cup (35g) Pecorino and mix on low for 1 minute. Scrape the dough together to form a ball.4 Take the hot skillet out of the oven and set it on the stovetop or other heat- safe surface. Brush the skillet with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Nudge the dough into the skillet and, using the spatula or your fingers (but being careful of the hot pan), flatten the dough into the skillet, pushing it out evenly to the edges. Brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil. Sprinkle the dough with the cheese- pepper mixture and transfer back to the oven. (Don’t forget the handle will still be hot!)5 Bake the shortbread until the edges begin to brown, 18 to 23 minutes. The middle should be cooked through but still a bit soft, as it will firm up as it cools. Set the pan on the stovetop or other heat- safe surface and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Using a plate, carefully invert the pan and flip the shortbread out, then flip it once more onto another plate so it’s right side up. Alternately, you can serve straight from the pan. Let cool completely.6 To serve, cut the shortbread into 10 to 12 wedges. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.cRISP -cRuMBLY: THE BAKE-AHEAD DREAM55GEnIuS DESSERTS54Cacio e Pepe ShortbreadFROM CHARLOTTE DRUCKMANThis is a shortbread cookie that doesn’t quite know if it’s sweet or savory, and in my experience, it doesn’t matter. Every time I set wedges of it out, I explain nothing— at first. Lurkers swarm and empty the plate, without stopping to wonder what genre of snack they’re eating.The recipe comes from the mind of Charlotte Druckman, author of Stir, Sizzle, Bake, a cookbook full of novel ways to use your cast- iron skillet— including this borderline psychedelic one. Druckman was inspired by Blue Bottle Coffee pastry chef Caitlin Freeman’s shortbread dough– whipping technique and chef Mark Ladner’s feisty cacio e pepe; she wondered what would happen if she were to graft a pasta recipe onto a shortbread.She worked in not only the cheeses (cacio) and the black pepper (pepe) but also dried pasta’s traditional semolina flour, which gives the shortbread a hint of warm, wheaty, pasta- like flavor, as well as a softness and a tight, fine-crumb structure. She then baked in one more round of crisp outer texture and toasty flavor by pressing the dough (carefully!) into a hot cast- iron skillet, brushing the top with olive oil, and sprinkling more pepper and cheese over it. Snack on it with your afternoon coffee or aperitifs— Prosecco, Bellinis, rosé, or whatever you like to drink at cocktail hour.MAKES 10 TO 12 WEDGES 1⁄2 cup plus 2 teaspoons (40g) finely grated Parmesan cheese, using the small holes of a box grater 1⁄2 cup plus 2 teaspoons (40g) finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, using the small holes of a box grater 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, at room temperature1⁄2 cup (60g) confectioners’ sugar1 1⁄4 teaspoons kosher salt1 1⁄2 cups (190g) all- purpose flour1⁄2 cup (80g) semolina flour1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra- virgin olive oil1 Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C), with a 10- inch (25cm) cast- iron skillet on the center rack. Stir together 2 teaspoons each of the Parmesan and Pecorino and 1 teaspoon of the pepper in a small bowl.2 In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium- low speed until it’s smooth, creamy, and fluffy like cake frosting, about 1 minute. Add the sugar, salt, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of pepper and stir until combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a silicone spatula as needed.3 Turn the speed to medium and mix until the mixture takes on a thick, creamy, almost mayonnaise- like texture, 4 to 5 minutes more. Add the flours and stir on low speed until just incorporated. Add the remaining 1⁄2 cup (35g) Parmesan and 1⁄2 cup (35g) Pecorino and mix on low for 1 minute. Scrape the dough together to form a ball.4 Take the hot skillet out of the oven and set it on the stovetop or other heat- safe surface. Brush the skillet with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Nudge the dough into the skillet and, using the spatula or your fingers (but being careful of the hot pan), flatten the dough into the skillet, pushing it out evenly to the edges. Brush with the remaining 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon olive oil. Sprinkle the dough with the cheese- pepper mixture and transfer back to the oven. (Don’t forget the handle will still be hot!)5 Bake the shortbread until the edges begin to brown, 18 to 23 minutes. The middle should be cooked through but still a bit soft, as it will firm up as it cools. Set the pan on the stovetop or other heat- safe surface and let cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Using a plate, carefully invert the pan and flip the shortbread out, then flip it once more onto another plate so it’s right side up. Alternately, you can serve straight from the pan. Let cool completely.6 To serve, cut the shortbread into 10 to 12 wedges. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.cRISP -cRuMBLY: THE BAKE-AHEAD DREAM55GEnIuS DESSERTS54Chocolate Cloud CakeFROM RICHARD SAXHere is where we learn that flourless chocolate cake can mean many different things, depending on ratios and technique. Both this recipe and the preceding one from Rose Levy Beranbaum are known and loved as flourless chocolate cakes and use the same basic three ingredients (eggs, chocolate, and butter), with wildly different appearances and textures.This one was a signature dessert of the late, beloved writer and cooking instructor Richard Sax. For the same amount of eggs as Beranbaum’s, he calls for half the chocolate and butter, and— instead of heating and whipping six whole eggs until billowy— he has you whip four of the whites with sugar to make a fluffy meringue, then gently fold them into the rest. Far from a dense and creamy torte, these three changes produce a poufy soufflé of a cake that intentionally caves in the center, leaving a craggy, wafer- like rim behind and a moussey hollow that you fill up with cold whipped cream. The effect is dramatic and bold, giving you, as Sax famously said, “intensity, then relief, in each bite.”SERVES 8 TO 12CAKE8 ounces (225g) best- quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped1⁄2 cup (110g) unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into 1- tablespoon pieces6 large eggs1 cup (200g) sugar2 tablespoons cognac or Grand Marnier (optional)Finely grated zest of 1 orange (about 1 tablespoon; optional)WHIPPED CREAM1 1⁄2 cups (355g) heavy cream, very cold3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar1 teaspoon pure vanilla extractunsweetened cocoa powder and/or bittersweet chocolate shavings, for topping1 To make the cake, heat the oven to 350°F (175°C), with a rack in the center. Line the bottom of an 8- inch (20cm) springform pan with parchment paper. (Do not butter the pan and parchment.)2 Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over but not touching gently simmering water in a saucepan. You can whisk it occasionally to help it along. When it’s melted, remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the butter until smooth.3 In two small bowls, separate 4 of the eggs. In a large bowl, whisk 2 whole eggs and the 4 egg yolks with 1⁄2 cup (100g) of the sugar just until combined. Slowly whisk in the warm chocolate mixture. Whisk in the Cognac and the orange zest. Using a handheld mixer in a separate bowl, beat the 4 egg whites until foamy, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the remaining 1⁄2 cup (100g) sugar and beat until beautifully glossy, soft peaks form that hold their shape but aren’t quite stiff, about 5 minutes more. Very gently fold about a quarter of the beaten egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the batter into the pan and smooth the top.4 Set the pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the top is puffed and cracked and the center is no longer wobbly, 35 to 40 minutes. Be careful not to bake the cake beyond this point.5 Let the cake cool in the pan on a rack. The center of the cake will sink as it cools, forming a sort of crater— this is good! Let the cake cool completely on a rack.6 To make the whipped cream, whip the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla in a large bowl with a handheld mixer until billowy, soft— not stiff— peaks form.7 Using a spatula, fill the sunken center of the cake with the whipped cream, swirling the cream to the edges of the crater. Dust the top lightly with cocoa powder.8 Run the tip of a knife around the edge of the cake, carefully remove the sides of the pan, and cut into wedges to serve.9 Store any leftovers airtight in the refrigerator— they won’t be very presentable but they’ll make a delicious moussey snack.SHOW cAKES109GEnIuS DESSERTS108Chocolate Cloud CakeFROM RICHARD SAXHere is where we learn that flourless chocolate cake can mean many different things, depending on ratios and technique. Both this recipe and the preceding one from Rose Levy Beranbaum are known and loved as flourless chocolate cakes and use the same basic three ingredients (eggs, chocolate, and butter), with wildly different appearances and textures.This one was a signature dessert of the late, beloved writer and cooking instructor Richard Sax. For the same amount of eggs as Beranbaum’s, he calls for half the chocolate and butter, and— instead of heating and whipping six whole eggs until billowy— he has you whip four of the whites with sugar to make a fluffy meringue, then gently fold them into the rest. Far from a dense and creamy torte, these three changes produce a poufy soufflé of a cake that intentionally caves in the center, leaving a craggy, wafer- like rim behind and a moussey hollow that you fill up with cold whipped cream. The effect is dramatic and bold, giving you, as Sax famously said, “intensity, then relief, in each bite.”SERVES 8 TO 12CAKE8 ounces (225g) best- quality bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped1⁄2 cup (110g) unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into 1- tablespoon pieces6 large eggs1 cup (200g) sugar2 tablespoons cognac or Grand Marnier (optional)Finely grated zest of 1 orange (about 1 tablespoon; optional)WHIPPED CREAM1 1⁄2 cups (355g) heavy cream, very cold3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar1 teaspoon pure vanilla extractunsweetened cocoa powder and/or bittersweet chocolate shavings, for topping1 To make the cake, heat the oven to 350°F (175°C), with a rack in the center. Line the bottom of an 8- inch (20cm) springform pan with parchment paper. (Do not butter the pan and parchment.)2 Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over but not touching gently simmering water in a saucepan. You can whisk it occasionally to help it along. When it’s melted, remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the butter until smooth.3 In two small bowls, separate 4 of the eggs. In a large bowl, whisk 2 whole eggs and the 4 egg yolks with 1⁄2 cup (100g) of the sugar just until combined. Slowly whisk in the warm chocolate mixture. Whisk in the Cognac and the orange zest. Using a handheld mixer in a separate bowl, beat the 4 egg whites until foamy, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the remaining 1⁄2 cup (100g) sugar and beat until beautifully glossy, soft peaks form that hold their shape but aren’t quite stiff, about 5 minutes more. Very gently fold about a quarter of the beaten egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites. Scrape the batter into the pan and smooth the top.4 Set the pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the top is puffed and cracked and the center is no longer wobbly, 35 to 40 minutes. Be careful not to bake the cake beyond this point.5 Let the cake cool in the pan on a rack. The center of the cake will sink as it cools, forming a sort of crater— this is good! Let the cake cool completely on a rack.6 To make the whipped cream, whip the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla in a large bowl with a handheld mixer until billowy, soft— not stiff— peaks form.7 Using a spatula, fill the sunken center of the cake with the whipped cream, swirling the cream to the edges of the crater. Dust the top lightly with cocoa powder.8 Run the tip of a knife around the edge of the cake, carefully remove the sides of the pan, and cut into wedges to serve.9 Store any leftovers airtight in the refrigerator— they won’t be very presentable but they’ll make a delicious moussey snack.SHOW cAKES109GEnIuS DESSERTS108French Lemon Cream TartFROM PIERRE HERMÉLemon curd tends to follow a fairly standard procedure: heat together eggs, sugar, lemon juice, and butter, then cool into a spoonable, flexible substance to be used in all sorts of jam- like ways. But when legendary French pastry chef Pierre Hermé decided to take the butter out of the process and then whip it back in without giving it a chance to melt, the butter emulsified and expanded, capturing big gulps of air. He’d created something buoyant in texture, like a smooth aioli or French buttercream rather than a pourable curd. It was entirely new and, to most who taste it, great leaps and bounds better. This tart is adapted from the one that Hermé’s longtime collaborator and friend Dorie Greenspan translated and shared in her book Baking in 2006, calling it The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart. But the lemon cream can, and should, travel through your desserts. Unlike curd, it’s firm enough to stand up well on its own, which means you can still swirl it over a pavlova or fold it into Eton mess (page 76), but you can also layer it into cakes and pies and between cookies, or serve it in tiny bowls, as the most electrifying lemon pudding.SERVES 8 TO 101 cup (200g) sugarFinely grated zest of 3 lemons (about 2 tablespoons)4 large eggs3⁄4 cup (180g) freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 4 or 5 lemons)1 1⁄4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (295g) unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into tablespoons1 fully baked 9- inch (23cm) tart shell (such as the Double-Blueberry Tart crust on page 220 or the Almond Tart crust on page 227)Fresh blueberries, for garnish (optional)1 Gather a whisk, a thermometer (preferably instant- read), a fine- mesh strainer, and a blender (preferably) or food processor. Fill a large saucepan with 2 inches (5cm) of water and bring it to a boil over high heat, then lower to a simmer.2 In a large metal bowl, rub the sugar and lemon zest together with your fingers until the sugar is well moistened, a bit clumpy, and very aromatic. Whisk in the eggs, followed by the lemon juice.3 Set the bowl over the saucepan (be sure the bottom isn’t touching the water) and cook the mixture, whisking constantly as soon as the mixture feels tepid to the touch (this will happen quickly). Cook the cream until it reaches 180°F (80°C). The mixture will start out light and foamy, then the bubbles will get bigger, and then, as it’s getting close to 180°F (80°C), it will start to thicken and the whisk will leave tracks, which means it’s almost ready. Don’t stop whisking and don’t stop checking the temperature— this can take as long as 10 minutes but may happen more quickly, depending on the heat.4 As soon as the mixture reaches 180°F (80°C), remove it from the heat and pour it through a fine- mesh strainer set over a blender (or food processor), stirring with a rubber spatula to coax as much of the curd through the strainer as possible. Let the curd cool at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until it is 140°F (60°C).5 Set the blender to high and, with the machine running, drop in about 5 pieces of butter at a time. Scrape down the sides of the blender as needed. After the butter is all blended in, continue to blend for 3 minutes more to whip in even more air. If your blender gets a bit too hot, run it only a minute at a time, giving the machine a short rest in between.6 Scrape the cream into a container and smooth a piece of plastic wrap over its surface to form an airtight seal. Refrigerate the cream for at least 4 hours. (You can store it in the refrigerator for 4 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.)7 When you are ready to fill the tart, whisk the cream to loosen it. Scrape it into the tart shell, smooth the top, and refrigerate if not serving shortly. Serve the tart cold the day it’s made.FAncY TARTS241GEnIuS DESSERTS240French Lemon Cream TartFROM PIERRE HERMÉLemon curd tends to follow a fairly standard procedure: heat together eggs, sugar, lemon juice, and butter, then cool into a spoonable, flexible substance to be used in all sorts of jam- like ways. But when legendary French pastry chef Pierre Hermé decided to take the butter out of the process and then whip it back in without giving it a chance to melt, the butter emulsified and expanded, capturing big gulps of air. He’d created something buoyant in texture, like a smooth aioli or French buttercream rather than a pourable curd. It was entirely new and, to most who taste it, great leaps and bounds better. This tart is adapted from the one that Hermé’s longtime collaborator and friend Dorie Greenspan translated and shared in her book Baking in 2006, calling it The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart. But the lemon cream can, and should, travel through your desserts. Unlike curd, it’s firm enough to stand up well on its own, which means you can still swirl it over a pavlova or fold it into Eton mess (page 76), but you can also layer it into cakes and pies and between cookies, or serve it in tiny bowls, as the most electrifying lemon pudding.SERVES 8 TO 101 cup (200g) sugarFinely grated zest of 3 lemons (about 2 tablespoons)4 large eggs3⁄4 cup (180g) freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 4 or 5 lemons)1 1⁄4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (295g) unsalted butter, at room temperature and cut into tablespoons1 fully baked 9- inch (23cm) tart shell (such as the Double-Blueberry Tart crust on page 220 or the Almond Tart crust on page 227)Fresh blueberries, for garnish (optional)1 Gather a whisk, a thermometer (preferably instant- read), a fine- mesh strainer, and a blender (preferably) or food processor. Fill a large saucepan with 2 inches (5cm) of water and bring it to a boil over high heat, then lower to a simmer.2 In a large metal bowl, rub the sugar and lemon zest together with your fingers until the sugar is well moistened, a bit clumpy, and very aromatic. Whisk in the eggs, followed by the lemon juice.3 Set the bowl over the saucepan (be sure the bottom isn’t touching the water) and cook the mixture, whisking constantly as soon as the mixture feels tepid to the touch (this will happen quickly). Cook the cream until it reaches 180°F (80°C). The mixture will start out light and foamy, then the bubbles will get bigger, and then, as it’s getting close to 180°F (80°C), it will start to thicken and the whisk will leave tracks, which means it’s almost ready. Don’t stop whisking and don’t stop checking the temperature— this can take as long as 10 minutes but may happen more quickly, depending on the heat.4 As soon as the mixture reaches 180°F (80°C), remove it from the heat and pour it through a fine- mesh strainer set over a blender (or food processor), stirring with a rubber spatula to coax as much of the curd through the strainer as possible. Let the curd cool at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until it is 140°F (60°C).5 Set the blender to high and, with the machine running, drop in about 5 pieces of butter at a time. Scrape down the sides of the blender as needed. After the butter is all blended in, continue to blend for 3 minutes more to whip in even more air. If your blender gets a bit too hot, run it only a minute at a time, giving the machine a short rest in between.6 Scrape the cream into a container and smooth a piece of plastic wrap over its surface to form an airtight seal. Refrigerate the cream for at least 4 hours. (You can store it in the refrigerator for 4 days or in the freezer for up to 2 months.)7 When you are ready to fill the tart, whisk the cream to loosen it. Scrape it into the tart shell, smooth the top, and refrigerate if not serving shortly. Serve the tart cold the day it’s made.FAncY TARTS241GEnIuS DESSERTS240We hope youenjoyed this EYB Book PreviewThe complete book is available from all major booksellers. Or use the "Buy Book" button and help support EYB.Next >