FredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 82/8/18 10:17 AMThE SToRY oF FREDS AND ME ixTHE STORY OF FREDS AND MEMy life first intersected with Barneys when, at the age of thirteen, I was dragged there by my mother to purchase my bar mitzvah suit. Coming from a family of Jewish immigrant merchants, she wouldn’t dream of purchasing that garment anywhere besides Barneys, the temple of menswear founded by Barney Pressman, patriarch of another Jewish immigrant merchant family. I didn’t care where we bought the suit. I spent the subway ride from Flush-ing, Queens, to Manhattan sweating with dread at the prospect of standing exposed before some cranky tailor, who would invariably frown, tsk, and shake his head in dismay at my portly short frame, tugging roughly at too-tight trousers with a hand full of pins perilously close to my privates. Even more terrifying was the looming event for which I was being dressed. As a dyslexic reading Hebrew in front of a congregation full of school friends, I was in danger of my nerves destroying the pose of class clown I affected in order to cover up my learning disabilities. I survived both the fitting and the Torah portion, and my mother thought the suit looked terrific.I couldn’t have guessed that twenty-six years later my life would intersect with Barneys in an even more significant way, when I was asked to helm the restaurant in their new Madison Avenue flagship store—the restaurant that would become Freds. In those twenty-six years, Barneys had transformed, under the guidance of Barney Pressman’s son Fred and his grandsons Gene and Bob, into a world-famous cutting-edge fashion destination, a true New York phenom. I had transformed, too, although not quite as spectacularly. I had become a chef and restaurateur— a perfect profession for someone with learning disabilities. I had spent four years training in classical European kitchens, eight years exploring Italy and Italian food, and had some visibility in the New York dining scene after opening several high-profile restaurants. I was mature enough to appreciate the parallels between Barney Pressman’s Horatio Alger–type story and my own (again less spectacular) family’s. And I was thin enough to fit into at least some of Barneys’ clothing without needing the services of a tailor.Now, more than twenty years after opening Freds in 1996, I see how well suited (pun intended) Barneys and I have been as collaborators. That, I think, has been the secret of Freds’ success and the longevity of our partnership. From the begin-ning, I’ve tried to offer in food what Barneys offers in fashion: a luxury destination that provides a level of personal service second to none. My youthful dread of tailors notwithstanding, when we first opened Freds I developed a fast friendship with several of the Barneys tailors; we had a mutual respect and admiration. I saw that we were in a way doing the same thing. Like me, they were practicing an Old World craft, and our approaches were actually quite similar: classical techniques combined with a hospitality tailored to individual customer needs and requests.FredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 92/8/18 10:17 AMFredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 512/8/18 10:21 AMThE FREDS ICoNIC SALADS53THE PALM SALADSPALM BEACH SHRIMP SALAD WITh GREEN GoDDESS DRESSINGI dreamed up this recipe during a week I spent in Palm Beach, Florida. Many of Freds’ customers spend the winter down there, and at one point I was invited to gig as a guest chef at a private club. The avenues lined with palm trees inspired the use of hearts of palm, and the soft lettuces and avocado seem to match the town’s unruffled ease. Something about the vibe on Worth Avenue, though, put me in mind of a long-lost American classic: Green Goddess dressing. Jumbo shrimp seemed the obvious pairing for a salad with a tropical vibe. When I got back to New York, we ran it as a special as a tribute to the snowbirds. It was an instant hit and was added to the permanent menu. I’m pleased that this salad is the go-to favorite lunch of Barneys’ CEO Daniella Vitale, who once told me, “I don’t know what you put in the Green Goddess dressing, but I can’t get enough.” I guess with the publication of this book, my secret will be out.Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as an appetizer4 large handfuls Soft Bed Salad Blend (see page 41), or preferred salad blend2 avocados, pitted, peeled, and cut into 1-inch cubes1 cup cherry tomatoes (we use a mixture of red and yellow), halved8 stalks hearts of palm, blanched* and cut into 1-inch pieces1 clove garlic, sliced2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil16 jumbo shrimp (ask your fishmonger for Mexican or Ecuadorian white shrimp, U-12 size), peeled and deveined¼ cup white wineKosher saltFreshly ground black pepper½ cup Green Goddess Dressing (page 54), or to taste4 hard-boiled eggs (see page 217), peeled and cut into halves or quarters*At Freds, we use fresh hearts of palm, blanched in salted water for about 30 to 40 minutes, and then chilled (see Blanching Vegetables, page 17). Since you may have difficulty finding fresh hearts of palm, canned ones are perfectly acceptable.Trim and rinse all the lettuces and dry in a salad spinner. Gently tear them into bite-size pieces and place in a large mixing bowl. Add the avocado, tomatoes, and hearts of palm and gently mix together. Set aside while you cook the shrimp.Cook the garlic in the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat until it starts to brown. Add the shrimp, then the wine, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 4 to 6 minutes, until the shrimp are just cooked. Turn off heat and set aside while you dress the salad.Drizzle dressing to your taste (start slowly— you don’t want to overdress, and you can always add more) into the bowl of salad and mix together well. Divide the salad equally among four or six plates. Place the shrimp, divided equally, on top of the salads and arrange the eggs on top. Serve immediately. Refrigerate any leftover dressing.CONTINUES FredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 532/8/18 10:22 AM54LUNChGREEN GODDESS DRESSINGLegend has it that Green Goddess dressing was invented in San Francisco in the 1920s as an homage to an actor in a play of the same name, but it really hit its apex during the ’70s; it was on menus everywhere. Maybe it got overplayed because it kind of disappeared as time went on, at least on restaurant menus. It’s too bad, though, because it’s a terrific dressing, full of flavor. Also, it raises one of life’s biggest questions: Why has it never achieved the same status of Caesar dressing (who conquered even the salad world, I guess)?You can use any combination of herbs, but chervil and tarragon are core flavors in the original dressing, so don’t omit those. I throw in a little spinach because I want to make sure the dressing has a nice green hue.Like many salad dressings, it’s optimal to make this a day before serving, to let the flavors meld and reach their peak. If you can’t manage a full day, at least make it 2 hours before you use it. It’s best to make it in a food processor so it will come out very smooth and emulsified. However, it is possible to make by hand or with an immersion blender; if you do, be sure to chop all the herbs, the shallot, and the anchovies very, very finely, with a mezzaluna or sharp chef’s knife, before blending together.Makes about 3 cups¼ cup chopped fresh chervil leaves2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves¼ cup chopped fresh chives¼ cup chopped fresh curly parsley6 fresh mint leaves, chopped½ cup raw spinach, finely chopped1 shallot, minced2 anchovy filets, mashed2 teaspoons kosher salt½ teaspoon white pepper¼ cup warm water6 tablespoons cider vinegar3 tablespoons plain yogurt2 tablespoons good commercial mayonnaise1 tablespoon Dijon mustard1 cup extra-virgin olive oil2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice2 shakes Worcestershire sauce2 shakes Tabasco sauce (optional, if you like it a little spicy)Place all the herbs, the spinach, shallot, anchovies, salt, white pepper, and water in the bowl of a food processor. Blend together until the mixture forms a paste. Add the vinegar, yogurt, mayonnaise, and mustard and slowly blend together well. With the processor on a low speed, slowly drizzle in the oil in a slow stream until the dressing is emulsified. Add the lemon juice, Worcester-shire, and Tabasco (if using), and blend together well. Store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before using. Will keep for up to 1 week.FredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 542/8/18 10:22 AMThE FREDS LUNCh CLASSICS101THE JEWISH BOY FROM QUEENS WITh RUSSIAN DRESSINGWhere I grew up in Queens, in a neighborhood where freshly roasted turkey was a staple foodstuff, the word for foodie was fresser. And, boy, was I a fresser. The day my father showed me how to combine ketchup and mayo is still a vivid memory. It was a formative fresser rite of passage. As an adult I realized that it’s basically Russian dressing, but at the time it blew my young fresser mind. My mind was blown again the day I discovered that it was possible to order coleslaw inside my turkey sandwich, which then became my standing order at the local deli throughout my teenage years.This sandwich, which I created for the opening of Freds in the new downtown store, is homage to Barneys’ return to its original New York neighborhood and a nod back to the turkey sand-wiches of my youth. Then, I would have had this sandwich on rye, but the grown-up fresser in me thought that it might taste even better on an onion roll. Orwashers bakery makes large, delicious, savory onion pockets—with minced onions swirled through the dough and sprin-kled on top—that are as traditionally New York as bagels, and they’re perfect for this sand-wich. If you can’t find them, it’s fine to substitute a simple kaiser roll, or, of course, the traditional rye bread.Originally only on the lunch menu, the Jewish Boy from Queens was so requested that it’s now on the dinner menu as well. The other day a couple of twenty-something guys were sharing one (in another New York sandwich tradition, it’s big enough for two) and called me over to say, “Thanks for putting it on at dinner. We love this thing!” It’s gratifying for this Jewish boy from Queens to see a new generation of fressers enjoying my old neighborhood treat.Makes 1 sandwich1 large onion pocket roll2 tablespoons Russian Dressing (page 102)5 ounces sliced freshly roasted turkey (see page 19)½ cup Classic Coleslaw (page 93)1 leaf Bibb lettuce1 thick slice vine-ripened red tomato½ sour pickle, optionalFreds Potato Chips (page 98), optionalCut the roll in half horizontally and toast it on a light setting so the onions don’t burn. Spread Russian dressing on both halves, and then arrange the sliced turkey on the bottom half. Using a fork so that excess liquid drains off, place the coleslaw on top of the turkey. Top with the other half of the bun, press down slightly, and cut in half.Arrange on a plate with the lettuce, tomato, pickle, and potato chips if desired.CONTINUES FredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 1012/8/18 10:26 AMFredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 1002/8/18 10:26 AM102LUNChRUSSIAN DRESSINGMakes 1½ cups1 cup good commercial mayonnaise½ cup ketchup4 shakes Worcestershire sauce1 teaspoon kosher saltFreshly ground black pepper Place all ingredients into a mixing bowl and blend well together using a whisk or an immersion blender. Store in a covered container in the fridge for up to 1 week.hoW To PoUND A PAILLARD (oR SCALoPPINE, MILANESE, oR CARPACCIo)This technique for pounding meat works whether you’re making a paillard, a Milanese (breaded paillard), or carpaccio (raw pounded steak—not a suitable way to serve chicken, obviously!). The goal is to end up with a piece of meat that is evenly thin all over. Use a countertop where you have enough elbow room for leverage and that’s sturdy enough to stand up to pounding—we use a butcher block instead of the usual metal kitchen surfaces. Be sure to remove any objects that might fall off from the rattling as you pound. Place a very thick wooden cutting board (such as the ones made by John Boos, which are widely available) on the surface to absorb the impact of the pounding. The best tool to use is a metal meat mallet/tenderizer, but they’re not all created equal. The best for home use is a solid stainless-steel round disc because it’s heavier and has a smaller center of weight than the more common square ones. It’s a bit small to do the volume a restaurant requires, but it’s perfect for home use—or for beginners. Use the flat side, not the scored one.For each piece of chicken, tear off two equal size pieces of plastic wrap. Place one piece on the cutting board, lay the chicken on top, and drizzle 1 teaspoon of cold water over the chicken, which prevents it from sticking to the plastic. Lay the second piece of plastic on top. Now you’re ready to pound, but do so strategically by starting from the center. Part of the art is using the right force; too much will rip holes in the meat or the plastic wrap. The time to exert a little extra pressure is not in the strike, but just as the mallet hits the meat. Rotate the piece (in the plastic) about 20 degrees clockwise after each strike, so you work your way around, and feel with your free hand to make sure it’s evenly flat. From a 7-ounce chicken breast you should end up with a piece that’s about the size of a 10-inch plate. About halfway through pounding, lift the top layer of plastic and drizzle the meat with a little olive oil so the plastic won’t tear the meat as you remove it for cooking. When the piece is fully pounded, remove the top plastic again, and drizzle with a little more olive oil and with herbs, if desired. Cover with the plastic and store flat in the fridge until you’re ready to cook it.FredsAtBarneys_HCtext4P.indd 1022/8/18 10:26 AMNext >