thethe art and science of pairing common ingredients to create extraordinary dishes james briscionewith brooke parkhurstFlavormatrix70 %100 %citrus Fruityhopslemongrasslemon balm Flavor Matrix Key ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVWeakerPairingStrongerPairingComplementary IngredientsPrimary Aromas (AND NOTABLE SUBCATEGORIES)Featured Ingredientthe world of molecular gastronomy. I have consolidated all of my findings about each ingredient into an infographic I call a “flavor matrix,” making one for every ingredient or group of ingredients that I studied. At the center of each matrix is the featured ingredient itself. Surrounding it are all of the ingredient’s primary aromas: the basic categories of smells created by all the aromatic compounds it contains. Around the perimeter of the matrix, organized by aroma group, are all of the ingredients that pair well with the featured ingredient. Each of these complementary ingredients is represented by another slice, its length indicating the percentage of compounds this ingredient shares with the featured one.This book is divided into roughly sixty sections, each dedicated to a different featured ingredient or group of ingredients and containing a unique flavor matrix. In each section I’ll also list some key facts about these ingredients and give you a “best of” list of scientific pairings. Lastly, in each section you’ll find an original recipe that my spouse and creative partner, Brooke Parkhurst, and I created using that section’s flavor matrix.My hope is that once you’ve gotten comfortable with these flavor matrixes, you’ll be able to use them at a glance to find new, striking ways to employ common ingredients in your own cooking. When you discover that shared chemical compounds make (for instance) blueberries and horseradish a surprisingly delicious pairing, and that these same compounds connect horseradish to pork, a roast pork sandwich with blueberry- horseradish jam may become your new favorite meal. See how many different dishes you can create with this knowledge, and more important, enjoy the ride — wherever it takes you.Over the past thirty years, researchers have changed the way chefs like me think about flavor. We now know that each ingredient’s unique flavor is mostly created by chemical structures called volatile compounds. They are the primary determinants of an ingredient’s smell, which accounts for 80 percent of what we perceive when taking a bite or a sip. A simple ingredient like lettuce has about twenty volatile com-pounds (or as I prefer to call them, “aromatic compounds”). Coffee has nearly 1,000.Until now, we haven’t figured out how to put this knowledge to work in the kitchen. But according to a relatively recent cu-linary innovation called flavor pairing theory, if two ingredients share significant numbers or concentrations of aromatic com-pounds, they’ll be delicious together. If we just had enough chemical data, we could pair ingredients perfectly based on science rather than more esoteric (and error-prone) tools like imagination and intuition.I first realized the enormous potential of this idea while work-ing as the chef-collaborator of Watson, IBM’s famous super-computer, as it analyzed academic articles, cookbooks, and other sources to identify the most unexpected and delicious pairings of ingredients. I enjoyed cooking with Watson; one of our inventions — roast duck with tomatoes, sage, olives, and cherries — is still a favorite dish of mine. But I wanted to see the hidden connections between ingredients without having to ask a supercomputer, and I wanted to help other cooks see them, too.I set about pinpointing and quantifying the common aro-matic compounds of roughly 150 of the most frequently used ingredients. Although I am a chef and culinary instructor, not a scientist, I immersed myself in academic journals, online chem-istry databases, and the theories of the most brilliant minds in The Art & Science of Flavor PairingIntroduction 5470 %100 %citrus Fruityhopslemongrasslemon balm Flavor Matrix Key ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVWeakerPairingStrongerPairingComplementary IngredientsPrimary Aromas (AND NOTABLE SUBCATEGORIES)Featured Ingredientthe world of molecular gastronomy. I have consolidated all of my findings about each ingredient into an infographic I call a “flavor matrix,” making one for every ingredient or group of ingredients that I studied. At the center of each matrix is the featured ingredient itself. Surrounding it are all of the ingredient’s primary aromas: the basic categories of smells created by all the aromatic compounds it contains. Around the perimeter of the matrix, organized by aroma group, are all of the ingredients that pair well with the featured ingredient. Each of these complementary ingredients is represented by another slice, its length indicating the percentage of compounds this ingredient shares with the featured one.This book is divided into roughly sixty sections, each dedicated to a different featured ingredient or group of ingredients and containing a unique flavor matrix. In each section I’ll also list some key facts about these ingredients and give you a “best of” list of scientific pairings. Lastly, in each section you’ll find an original recipe that my spouse and creative partner, Brooke Parkhurst, and I created using that section’s flavor matrix.My hope is that once you’ve gotten comfortable with these flavor matrixes, you’ll be able to use them at a glance to find new, striking ways to employ common ingredients in your own cooking. When you discover that shared chemical compounds make (for instance) blueberries and horseradish a surprisingly delicious pairing, and that these same compounds connect horseradish to pork, a roast pork sandwich with blueberry- horseradish jam may become your new favorite meal. See how many different dishes you can create with this knowledge, and more important, enjoy the ride — wherever it takes you.Over the past thirty years, researchers have changed the way chefs like me think about flavor. We now know that each ingredient’s unique flavor is mostly created by chemical structures called volatile compounds. They are the primary determinants of an ingredient’s smell, which accounts for 80 percent of what we perceive when taking a bite or a sip. A simple ingredient like lettuce has about twenty volatile com-pounds (or as I prefer to call them, “aromatic compounds”). Coffee has nearly 1,000.Until now, we haven’t figured out how to put this knowledge to work in the kitchen. But according to a relatively recent cu-linary innovation called flavor pairing theory, if two ingredients share significant numbers or concentrations of aromatic com-pounds, they’ll be delicious together. If we just had enough chemical data, we could pair ingredients perfectly based on science rather than more esoteric (and error-prone) tools like imagination and intuition.I first realized the enormous potential of this idea while work-ing as the chef-collaborator of Watson, IBM’s famous super-computer, as it analyzed academic articles, cookbooks, and other sources to identify the most unexpected and delicious pairings of ingredients. I enjoyed cooking with Watson; one of our inventions — roast duck with tomatoes, sage, olives, and cherries — is still a favorite dish of mine. But I wanted to see the hidden connections between ingredients without having to ask a supercomputer, and I wanted to help other cooks see them, too.I set about pinpointing and quantifying the common aro-matic compounds of roughly 150 of the most frequently used ingredients. Although I am a chef and culinary instructor, not a scientist, I immersed myself in academic journals, online chem-istry databases, and the theories of the most brilliant minds in The Art & Science of Flavor PairingIntroduction 54100 %citrusdried fruitmelontree fruittropicalpungentcaramelchocolatemeatynuttyroastedmedicinalsmokespicewoodmarinesourearthyfruit-likegreenherbaceousalcoholsulphurdairyFruityMaillardTerpeneVegetalcitruslemon balmdategrapemelonapplecherrycidercoconutlycheemangopapayapassion fruitpineapplebrassicamustardradishturniprumsherrycocoabeefchickenporkcashewhazelnutpeanutwalnutcoffeecherviltarragonbaconmezcalcinnamoncumingingerrosemarysagethymeclamcrablobstershrimptamarindbarleybeansbeetrootlentilmushroomoatsouthern peacapsicumcorneggplanttomatocauliflowercelerycresslettuceolive oilbasilcorianderdillfennelsaketequilaalliumcabbageeggbuttercheeseyogurt Avocado Avocado Avocado ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVAvocado trees are botanically related to Laurel (Bay) and Cinnamon trees, which helps to explain why these ingredients show such affinities for one another. The fla-vor of avocadoes is created by their high concentration of monounsaturated fats, lipids that give the fruit (yes, avocado is a fruit!) its characteristic aromas of green, dairy, citrus, and floral. As the fats oxidize, they also take on Maillard aromas. Native to Mexico, avocadoes are grown in tropical and Mediterranean climates through-out the world. They can be harvested year-round, thanks in part to the fact that they ripen after being picked. Best Pairings: cocoa, chiles, fruits (esp. citrus), butter, cream, roasted meats, seafoodSurprising Pairings: tequila, cocoa, appleSubstitutes: chayote, artichoke, mashed peas or beans4041100 %citrusdried fruitmelontree fruittropicalpungentcaramelchocolatemeatynuttyroastedmedicinalsmokespicewoodmarinesourearthyfruit-likegreenherbaceousalcoholsulphurdairyFruityMaillardTerpeneVegetalcitruslemon balmdategrapemelonapplecherrycidercoconutlycheemangopapayapassion fruitpineapplebrassicamustardradishturniprumsherrycocoabeefchickenporkcashewhazelnutpeanutwalnutcoffeecherviltarragonbaconmezcalcinnamoncumingingerrosemarysagethymeclamcrablobstershrimptamarindbarleybeansbeetrootlentilmushroomoatsouthern peacapsicumcorneggplanttomatocauliflowercelerycresslettuceolive oilbasilcorianderdillfennelsaketequilaalliumcabbageeggbuttercheeseyogurt Avocado Avocado Avocado ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVAvocado trees are botanically related to Laurel (Bay) and Cinnamon trees, which helps to explain why these ingredients show such affinities for one another. The fla-vor of avocadoes is created by their high concentration of monounsaturated fats, lipids that give the fruit (yes, avocado is a fruit!) its characteristic aromas of green, dairy, citrus, and floral. As the fats oxidize, they also take on Maillard aromas. Native to Mexico, avocadoes are grown in tropical and Mediterranean climates through-out the world. They can be harvested year-round, thanks in part to the fact that they ripen after being picked. Best Pairings: cocoa, chiles, fruits (esp. citrus), butter, cream, roasted meats, seafoodSurprising Pairings: tequila, cocoa, appleSubstitutes: chayote, artichoke, mashed peas or beans4041ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVAvocado2 avocadoes, halved and pitted1 limeCocoa and Chile Rub (recipe follows)¼ cup white sesame seeds, toasted2 cups baby arugula4 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSaltFig Vinegar (recipe follows)Peel the avocado halves and cut into four wedges per half. Squeeze a bit of lime over the avocadoes, then season with the cocoa-chile mixture. Let the pieces stand for 1 minute.Pour the sesame seeds into a shallow plate. Dip one side of each avocado wedge into the sesame seeds.Toss the arugula and radishes with the olive oil and salt to taste. Divide the salad among four plates and top with the avocado wedges. Drizzle each plate with fig vinegar and serve.COCOA AND CHILE RUBMakes about 3 tablespoons1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder1 tablespoon kosher salt1 teaspoon ancho chile powder1 teaspoon sesame seeds (optional, but excellent)1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepperCombine the cocoa, salt, ancho powder, sesame seeds, if using, and pepper in a small bowl and mix well. FIG VINEGARMakes 2 cups¼ cup chopped dried figs1 cup water2 cups white wine vinegarCombine the figs and water in a small saucepot. Bring to a simmer and cook until nearly dry. Add the vinegar and return to a simmer.Remove the pot from the heat. Cover tightly and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse.Mash the figs with a fork, then press through a fine-mesh strainer. Transfer the vinegar to a covered glass jar. Store for up to 6 months in a cool, dark place.MAKES 4 SERVINGSSesame Seed and Avocado Salad with Fig VinegarClassic pairings for avocado — chile and lime — meet some unexpected new friends in this dish. Figs play up avocadoes’ natural fruitiness, while cocoa maximizes the Maillard flavors in the beef that we suggest as an accompaniment (although this is just as delicious served as an avocado salad without the meat). Don’t overlook the fig vinegar; it’s the hidden gem in this recipe and a flavorful secret weapon to keep in your pantry. Serve this salad on its own, with Cocoa and Chile–Rubbed Beef (the recipe for which you’ll find in the beef section of the book), or with grilled shrimp.43ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVAvocado2 avocadoes, halved and pitted1 limeCocoa and Chile Rub (recipe follows)¼ cup white sesame seeds, toasted2 cups baby arugula4 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oilSaltFig Vinegar (recipe follows)Peel the avocado halves and cut into four wedges per half. Squeeze a bit of lime over the avocadoes, then season with the cocoa-chile mixture. Let the pieces stand for 1 minute.Pour the sesame seeds into a shallow plate. Dip one side of each avocado wedge into the sesame seeds.Toss the arugula and radishes with the olive oil and salt to taste. Divide the salad among four plates and top with the avocado wedges. Drizzle each plate with fig vinegar and serve.COCOA AND CHILE RUBMakes about 3 tablespoons1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder1 tablespoon kosher salt1 teaspoon ancho chile powder1 teaspoon sesame seeds (optional, but excellent)1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepperCombine the cocoa, salt, ancho powder, sesame seeds, if using, and pepper in a small bowl and mix well. FIG VINEGARMakes 2 cups¼ cup chopped dried figs1 cup water2 cups white wine vinegarCombine the figs and water in a small saucepot. Bring to a simmer and cook until nearly dry. Add the vinegar and return to a simmer.Remove the pot from the heat. Cover tightly and set aside for 30 minutes to infuse.Mash the figs with a fork, then press through a fine-mesh strainer. Transfer the vinegar to a covered glass jar. Store for up to 6 months in a cool, dark place.MAKES 4 SERVINGSSesame Seed and Avocado Salad with Fig VinegarClassic pairings for avocado — chile and lime — meet some unexpected new friends in this dish. Figs play up avocadoes’ natural fruitiness, while cocoa maximizes the Maillard flavors in the beef that we suggest as an accompaniment (although this is just as delicious served as an avocado salad without the meat). Don’t overlook the fig vinegar; it’s the hidden gem in this recipe and a flavorful secret weapon to keep in your pantry. Serve this salad on its own, with Cocoa and Chile–Rubbed Beef (the recipe for which you’ll find in the beef section of the book), or with grilled shrimp.43100 %berrycitrusdried fruitmelontree fruittropicalphenolpungentcaramelchocolatemeatynuttyroastedtoastedmedicinalpetrolsmokespicewoodmarinesourearthyfruit-likegreenherbaceousalcoholsulphurdairyfloralFruityMaillardTerpeneVegetalpomegranatecitrushopslemongrasslemon balmbalsamicgrapemelonwhite wineapricotcherryciderfigpeachpersimmonplumbananacoconutlycheemangopassion fruitpineappleoliveteabrassicamustardradishmaple syruprumsherrycocoawhite chocolatebeefchickenporkalmondcashewpeanutpecanpistachiocoffeebeercarawaylaurelminttarragonmarjorammezcalallspiceanise seedcardamomcinnamonclovecoriander seedcuminmacenutmegstar anisesumacgingerthymeclamfishvinegarbeetrootcarrotgrainoatcornrhubarbtomatoarugulacauliflowercelerypeasbasilcilantroparsleybrandyvodkaalliumbutterbuttermilksour creamyogurtcamomileelderberryhoney Berries Berries ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVBerries are a wide category; botanically speaking, strawberry, blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, and cranberry are all fruits produced by the ovary of a single flower. But by this definition, bananas, avocadoes, tomatoes, grapes, eggplant, capers, watermelons, and pumpkins are all berries — so we will focus here on classically defined berries like strawberries and black-berries. Grouping these fruits into three main genera helps us to focus on the similarities among all berries and identify the particular characteristics in each genus. Note, however, that when it comes to pairing berries with other ingredients, all three groups abide by the same set of rules.MAIN GENERA FRAGARIA. A genus of the rose family that includes cultivars of strawberries such as Honeoye, Earliglow, and Allstar, and fraises des boisRUBUS. A separate genus of the rose family that includes raspberries, blackberries, dewberries, loganber-ries, and boysenberriesVACCINIUM. A genus that includes blueberries, cran-berries, and lingonberries.Best Pairings: Citrus, melon, apricot, peach, nec-tarine, chocolate, arugula, wine, vinegar, cream, yogurtSurprising Pairings: Thai basil (for vaccinium), mushroom (for fragaria), cumin (for rubus) Substitutes: Other berries, currants, grapes, kiwi65100 %berrycitrusdried fruitmelontree fruittropicalphenolpungentcaramelchocolatemeatynuttyroastedtoastedmedicinalpetrolsmokespicewoodmarinesourearthyfruit-likegreenherbaceousalcoholsulphurdairyfloralFruityMaillardTerpeneVegetalpomegranatecitrushopslemongrasslemon balmbalsamicgrapemelonwhite wineapricotcherryciderfigpeachpersimmonplumbananacoconutlycheemangopassion fruitpineappleoliveteabrassicamustardradishmaple syruprumsherrycocoawhite chocolatebeefchickenporkalmondcashewpeanutpecanpistachiocoffeebeercarawaylaurelminttarragonmarjorammezcalallspiceanise seedcardamomcinnamonclovecoriander seedcuminmacenutmegstar anisesumacgingerthymeclamfishvinegarbeetrootcarrotgrainoatcornrhubarbtomatoarugulacauliflowercelerypeasbasilcilantroparsleybrandyvodkaalliumbutterbuttermilksour creamyogurtcamomileelderberryhoney Berries Berries ABCEFGHJKLMNOPRSTVBerries are a wide category; botanically speaking, strawberry, blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, and cranberry are all fruits produced by the ovary of a single flower. But by this definition, bananas, avocadoes, tomatoes, grapes, eggplant, capers, watermelons, and pumpkins are all berries — so we will focus here on classically defined berries like strawberries and black-berries. Grouping these fruits into three main genera helps us to focus on the similarities among all berries and identify the particular characteristics in each genus. Note, however, that when it comes to pairing berries with other ingredients, all three groups abide by the same set of rules.MAIN GENERA FRAGARIA. A genus of the rose family that includes cultivars of strawberries such as Honeoye, Earliglow, and Allstar, and fraises des boisRUBUS. A separate genus of the rose family that includes raspberries, blackberries, dewberries, loganber-ries, and boysenberriesVACCINIUM. A genus that includes blueberries, cran-berries, and lingonberries.Best Pairings: Citrus, melon, apricot, peach, nec-tarine, chocolate, arugula, wine, vinegar, cream, yogurtSurprising Pairings: Thai basil (for vaccinium), mushroom (for fragaria), cumin (for rubus) Substitutes: Other berries, currants, grapes, kiwi65Next >