5352one-bowl gatherings: soups and stewsALICE WATERS minestrone IN ITALIAN, THE word minestrone means “big soup .” Like many rustic Italian dishes, minestrone has never been made according to a fixed recipe . Instead, local custom, improvisation, and the season have long determined what goes in the pot . That means minestrone might be a simple broth with lightly cooked spring vegeta-bles, a hearty stew-like soup swirled with pesto, or a bread-thickened Tuscan ribollita . Most traditional versions call for borlotti beans and their broth, as does this one from Alice Waters, chef-owner of the famed Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, California . She describes minestrone as one of her favorite recipes because it is easy, inexpensive, and infinitely versatile . It is also a favorite of everyone at the Edible Schoolyard, a program that Alice founded in 1995 in a vacant lot at the Martin Luther King Jr . Middle School in Berkeley . Her idea was to create and sustain an organic garden that involved students in the experience of growing, harvesting, preparing, and sharing food . Since then, the Edible Schoolyard has expanded to other cities and is now teaching not only the pleasures of growing and cooking food but also the values of stewardship of the land and nourishment of the community . Every early fall, when Berkeley experiences both its warmest days and its biggest harvest season of the year, the Edible Schoolyard students make this soup and enjoy the fruits of their labor together . INGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHDried borlotti or cannellini beans 2 cups4 cupsKosher saltOlive oil1/3 cup1/3 cupLarge yellow onions, chopped 24 Carrots, peeled and finely chopped48Garlic cloves, coarsely chopped816Fresh thyme sprigs 1020Bay leaves 24Water3 cups6 cupsSmall leeks, white part only, finely diced2 4Green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths1 lb2 lbSingle Batch Makes 8 to 10 servings Double Batch Makes 16 to 20 servings MAKE AHEADThe dried beans must be soaked overnight before cooking. The cooked beans and their liquid can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Let the beans cool in their liquid as directed, then transfer them in their liquid to one or more air-tight containers and refrigerate or freeze.EQUIPMENTOne or two large bowls for soaking the beans; one or two large soup pots or Dutch ovens. BIG BATCH NOTESThe double batch of soaked dried beans will swell to an impressive amount, so be sure to use two bowls or an oversize single bowl.Because this recipe requires a lot of chopping, having a second set of hands to help is highly recommended.For a double batch make sure you season with plenty of salt.SERVINGStart with assorted salumi, Italian cheeses, and olives and serve the soup with crusty country bread. Pour a selection of Italian wines. continued on following page5352one-bowl gatherings: soups and stewsALICE WATERS minestrone IN ITALIAN, THE word minestrone means “big soup .” Like many rustic Italian dishes, minestrone has never been made according to a fixed recipe . Instead, local custom, improvisation, and the season have long determined what goes in the pot . That means minestrone might be a simple broth with lightly cooked spring vegeta-bles, a hearty stew-like soup swirled with pesto, or a bread-thickened Tuscan ribollita . Most traditional versions call for borlotti beans and their broth, as does this one from Alice Waters, chef-owner of the famed Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, California . She describes minestrone as one of her favorite recipes because it is easy, inexpensive, and infinitely versatile . It is also a favorite of everyone at the Edible Schoolyard, a program that Alice founded in 1995 in a vacant lot at the Martin Luther King Jr . Middle School in Berkeley . Her idea was to create and sustain an organic garden that involved students in the experience of growing, harvesting, preparing, and sharing food . Since then, the Edible Schoolyard has expanded to other cities and is now teaching not only the pleasures of growing and cooking food but also the values of stewardship of the land and nourishment of the community . Every early fall, when Berkeley experiences both its warmest days and its biggest harvest season of the year, the Edible Schoolyard students make this soup and enjoy the fruits of their labor together . INGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHDried borlotti or cannellini beans 2 cups4 cupsKosher saltOlive oil1/3 cup1/3 cupLarge yellow onions, chopped 24 Carrots, peeled and finely chopped48Garlic cloves, coarsely chopped816Fresh thyme sprigs 1020Bay leaves 24Water3 cups6 cupsSmall leeks, white part only, finely diced2 4Green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths1 lb2 lbSingle Batch Makes 8 to 10 servings Double Batch Makes 16 to 20 servings MAKE AHEADThe dried beans must be soaked overnight before cooking. The cooked beans and their liquid can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Let the beans cool in their liquid as directed, then transfer them in their liquid to one or more air-tight containers and refrigerate or freeze.EQUIPMENTOne or two large bowls for soaking the beans; one or two large soup pots or Dutch ovens. BIG BATCH NOTESThe double batch of soaked dried beans will swell to an impressive amount, so be sure to use two bowls or an oversize single bowl.Because this recipe requires a lot of chopping, having a second set of hands to help is highly recommended.For a double batch make sure you season with plenty of salt.SERVINGStart with assorted salumi, Italian cheeses, and olives and serve the soup with crusty country bread. Pour a selection of Italian wines. continued on following page55minestrone 54one-bowl gatherings: soups and stewsINGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHTomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 48Zucchini, cut into small dice48Spinach leaves, coarsely chopped 1 lb2 lbExtra-virgin olive oil, for serving 2/3 cup11/3 cupsGrated Parmesan cheese, for serving1 cup2 cupsPesto, for serving (see left) 1 recipe2 recipesPour the beans into a large bowl (for the double batch, use two bowls) and cover with water, making sure no beans are poking out of the water . Soak the beans overnight, then drain . Pour the beans into a large, heavy-bottomed pot and add fresh cold water to cover by 1 inch (or divide between two pots for a double batch) . Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the beans are tender, about 2 hours, adding more hot water as needed to keep the beans covered . Remove five beans from the pot and taste them . If all of them are tender, the beans are done . Season with salt (the cooking liquid should taste just a bit salty) and remove from the heat . Let the beans cool in their cooking liquid . (If the beans are drained right away, the skins will crack and they will look shaggy .) Drain the cooled beans into a colander placed over another pot or large bowl, reserving the beans and cooking liquid separately . Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot (or two pots if making a double batch) over medium heat . When the oil is hot, add the onions and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 15 minutes . Add the garlic, thyme, bay leaves, and 2 teaspoons salt if making a single batch and 4 teaspoons if making a double batch . Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes . Pour in the water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat . When the water is boiling, add the leeks, green beans, toma-toes, and zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes . Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt .INGREDIENT NOTESFresh tomatoes are always pre-ferred but high-quality canned tomatoes can be used, especially in winter when tomatoes are out of season. Use one 28-ounce can tomatoes for a single batch and two cans for a double batch.PESTOMakes about 3/4 cup“Pesto is my favorite sauce to make,” says Alice Waters. “I love the sensory experience of pound-ing it and smelling it and tasting it as I go.” She regards it as much more than a pasta sauce, too, describing it as “delicious on sliced tomatoes, as a dipping sauce for vegetables, on a pizza, or as a sauce for grilled chicken and vege-tables.” It is also wonderful swirled into bowls of her minestrone. 1 garlic cloveKosher salt1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese1 bunch basil1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil In a good-size mortar with a pestle, pound together the garlic and a pinch of salt to a paste. Add the pine nuts and pound until finely ground. Add the cheese, working it into the pine nut mixture. Transfer this mixture to a bowl. Pick the leaves from the basil bunch. You should have about 1 lightly packed cup. Coarsely chop the basil leaves and put them in the mortar, then pound them to a paste. Return the pine nut mixture to the mortar and pound together with the basil until fully blended. Continue to pound as you gradually pour in the oil, mixing it in evenly. Taste and adjust with salt if needed.VARIATIONS• Substitute flat-leaf parsley or arugula for some or all of the basil.• Substitute grated pecorino cheese for half or all of the Parmesan. • Substitute walnuts for the pine nuts. Add the cooked beans, 2 cups of the bean cooking liquid if making a single batch and 4 cups if making a double batch, and the spinach and cook for 5 minutes . If the soup is too thick, add more bean cooking liquid or water .Remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs . Serve the soup hot, with the extra-virgin olive oil and the Parmesan and pesto on the side . 55minestrone 54one-bowl gatherings: soups and stewsINGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHTomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 48Zucchini, cut into small dice48Spinach leaves, coarsely chopped 1 lb2 lbExtra-virgin olive oil, for serving 2/3 cup11/3 cupsGrated Parmesan cheese, for serving1 cup2 cupsPesto, for serving (see left) 1 recipe2 recipesPour the beans into a large bowl (for the double batch, use two bowls) and cover with water, making sure no beans are poking out of the water . Soak the beans overnight, then drain . Pour the beans into a large, heavy-bottomed pot and add fresh cold water to cover by 1 inch (or divide between two pots for a double batch) . Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the beans are tender, about 2 hours, adding more hot water as needed to keep the beans covered . Remove five beans from the pot and taste them . If all of them are tender, the beans are done . Season with salt (the cooking liquid should taste just a bit salty) and remove from the heat . Let the beans cool in their cooking liquid . (If the beans are drained right away, the skins will crack and they will look shaggy .) Drain the cooled beans into a colander placed over another pot or large bowl, reserving the beans and cooking liquid separately . Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot (or two pots if making a double batch) over medium heat . When the oil is hot, add the onions and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 15 minutes . Add the garlic, thyme, bay leaves, and 2 teaspoons salt if making a single batch and 4 teaspoons if making a double batch . Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes . Pour in the water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat . When the water is boiling, add the leeks, green beans, toma-toes, and zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes . Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt .INGREDIENT NOTESFresh tomatoes are always pre-ferred but high-quality canned tomatoes can be used, especially in winter when tomatoes are out of season. Use one 28-ounce can tomatoes for a single batch and two cans for a double batch.PESTOMakes about 3/4 cup“Pesto is my favorite sauce to make,” says Alice Waters. “I love the sensory experience of pound-ing it and smelling it and tasting it as I go.” She regards it as much more than a pasta sauce, too, describing it as “delicious on sliced tomatoes, as a dipping sauce for vegetables, on a pizza, or as a sauce for grilled chicken and vege-tables.” It is also wonderful swirled into bowls of her minestrone. 1 garlic cloveKosher salt1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese1 bunch basil1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil In a good-size mortar with a pestle, pound together the garlic and a pinch of salt to a paste. Add the pine nuts and pound until finely ground. Add the cheese, working it into the pine nut mixture. Transfer this mixture to a bowl. Pick the leaves from the basil bunch. You should have about 1 lightly packed cup. Coarsely chop the basil leaves and put them in the mortar, then pound them to a paste. Return the pine nut mixture to the mortar and pound together with the basil until fully blended. Continue to pound as you gradually pour in the oil, mixing it in evenly. Taste and adjust with salt if needed.VARIATIONS• Substitute flat-leaf parsley or arugula for some or all of the basil.• Substitute grated pecorino cheese for half or all of the Parmesan. • Substitute walnuts for the pine nuts. Add the cooked beans, 2 cups of the bean cooking liquid if making a single batch and 4 cups if making a double batch, and the spinach and cook for 5 minutes . If the soup is too thick, add more bean cooking liquid or water .Remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs . Serve the soup hot, with the extra-virgin olive oil and the Parmesan and pesto on the side . 169168meat and poultry: braises, roasts, grills, and friesRICK RODGERSroot beer barbecued spareribsCOOKBOOK AUTHOR AND cooking teacher Rick Rodgers’s immediate family isn’t too large (he has two brothers, also excellent cooks), but his extended family is very big . His great-grandmother had nine children, and his maternal grandmother had seven, so, many relatives show up for the family reunions that occur on an irregu-lar basis . “We often use my mom’s birthday as a reason for us all to get together—last year it was thirty-five hungry people . Spareribs are the favorite main course . My method grew out of a necessity to serve everyone .” Rick says that he prefers big, meaty spareribs to baby backs because he can get more servings from the spareribs . He also recommends having many filling side dishes as a way to keep everyone’s plate filled and to cut down on the work required by the person attending the grill .A Rodgers family backyard party is usually a potluck affair . “We don’t stray too much from the standard fare because these recipes have become icons and represent our family history . My brother Doug makes Caesar salad, my brother Greg makes the beans, my sister-in-law Linda brings a Mexican dip, and one of my cousins can be relied on to provide our family’s famous recipe for potato salad . Two things are always served: garlic bread and chips with back-of-the-box onion dip . Retro? Yep . But it isn’t a party at Mom’s house without them .” A great-quality artisanal root beer makes the best-tasting sauce, so don’t settle for less .INGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHBarbecue SauceUnsalted butter2 Tbsp4 TbspYellow onion(s), finely chopped12Peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger1 Tbsp2 TbspGarlic clove(s), finely chopped 1212-oz bottle(s) root beer (not diet)12Single Batch Makes 6 to 8 servingsDouble Batch Makes 12 to 16 servings MAKE AHEADThe sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. The rub can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 weeks. The ribs can be rubbed, wrapped, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. The ribs can be cooked, cooled, stacked, wrapped in fresh aluminum foil, and refrig-erated for up to 8 hours before browning. Brown and sauce the ribs just before serving. continued on following page169168meat and poultry: braises, roasts, grills, and friesRICK RODGERSroot beer barbecued spareribsCOOKBOOK AUTHOR AND cooking teacher Rick Rodgers’s immediate family isn’t too large (he has two brothers, also excellent cooks), but his extended family is very big . His great-grandmother had nine children, and his maternal grandmother had seven, so, many relatives show up for the family reunions that occur on an irregu-lar basis . “We often use my mom’s birthday as a reason for us all to get together—last year it was thirty-five hungry people . Spareribs are the favorite main course . My method grew out of a necessity to serve everyone .” Rick says that he prefers big, meaty spareribs to baby backs because he can get more servings from the spareribs . He also recommends having many filling side dishes as a way to keep everyone’s plate filled and to cut down on the work required by the person attending the grill .A Rodgers family backyard party is usually a potluck affair . “We don’t stray too much from the standard fare because these recipes have become icons and represent our family history . My brother Doug makes Caesar salad, my brother Greg makes the beans, my sister-in-law Linda brings a Mexican dip, and one of my cousins can be relied on to provide our family’s famous recipe for potato salad . Two things are always served: garlic bread and chips with back-of-the-box onion dip . Retro? Yep . But it isn’t a party at Mom’s house without them .” A great-quality artisanal root beer makes the best-tasting sauce, so don’t settle for less .INGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHBarbecue SauceUnsalted butter2 Tbsp4 TbspYellow onion(s), finely chopped12Peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger1 Tbsp2 TbspGarlic clove(s), finely chopped 1212-oz bottle(s) root beer (not diet)12Single Batch Makes 6 to 8 servingsDouble Batch Makes 12 to 16 servings MAKE AHEADThe sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 weeks. The rub can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 weeks. The ribs can be rubbed, wrapped, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. The ribs can be cooked, cooled, stacked, wrapped in fresh aluminum foil, and refrig-erated for up to 8 hours before browning. Brown and sauce the ribs just before serving. continued on following page171root beer barbecued spareribs170meat and poultry: braises, roasts, grills, and friesINGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHKetchup1 cup2 cupsCider vinegar1/3 cup2/3 cupMolasses (not blackstrap)1/3 cup2/3 cupWorcestershire sauce2 Tbsp1/4 cupSriracha or other hot sauce 1 tsp2 tspRubSmoked sweet paprika 1 Tbsp2 TbspKosher salt 1 Tbsp2 TbspGarlic powder11/2 tsp1 TbspOnion powder11/2 tsp1 TbspFreshly ground black pepper 11/2 tsp1 TbspCayenne pepper 1/2 tsp1 tspPork spareribs (in 4 slabs for a single batch, 8 slabs for a double batch)6 lb12 lbPecan, apple, or cherry wood chips1 cup2 cupsMake the sauce: In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat . Add the onion(s) and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes . Add the ginger and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute . Stir in half of the root beer, increase the heat to high, bring to a boil, and boil until the root beer is reduced to a thick syrup, 10 to 15 minutes . Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir in the remaining root beer, the ketchup, vinegar, molasses, Worcestershire sauce, and Sriracha and bring to a simmer . Simmer, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, 20 to 30 minutes . Remove from the heat and let cool . Make the rub: In a small bowl, whisk together the paprika, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, and cayenne pepper, mixing well . Prepare the ribs: Remove the membrane from the bony side of each rib slab . To do this, slip a small, sharp knife under the membrane at one corner on the bone side of the ribs to loosen an inch or so of the membrane . Using a paper towel for traction, pull the membrane away from the ribs . This may take a couple of tries to remove most of the membrane . Trim off any extraneous surface fat, as well .Season the ribs all over with the rub . Wrap each slab in heavy-duty aluminum foil, creating a package . Wrap the package again, with a flat side of the foil covering the first folded seam, which will help keep the juices trapped in the foil as you cook and flip the ribs . Grill the ribs: Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat . If using a charcoal grill, let a chimney filled with about 6 pounds charcoal briquettes burn until it is just covered with white ash . Pour the coals out onto the grate and spread them in an even layer . Let the coals burn down for 5 to 10 minutes . If using a gas grill, preheat the grill with all burners on . Turn half of the burners off and adjust the heat to medium-high (400°F to 450°F) .If making a double batch, cook the ribs in two batches . Place the rib packets, seam side up, on the grill . Cover the grill and cook until the meat has shrunk and exposed about 1/2 inch from the rib bone ends (open a packet to look), about 11/4 hours . (For a charcoal grill, after 45 minutes, add about twelve briquettes to the coals to help maintain the temperature .) During cooking, carefully turn the packets two or three times with long tongs, taking care not to pierce the foil and release the juices (which would cause flare-ups) . Remove the packets from the grill and let them cool for about 30 minutes . Unwrap the ribs, discarding the fat and juices . Let the ribs cool for another 30 minutes until tepid . Prepare the grill again for direct cooking over medium-high heat to brown and sauce the ribs . For a charcoal grill, spread the ashed-over coals in an even layer and let them burn for about 20 minutes so they aren’t too hot . Sprinkle the wood chips over the coals . (If making a double batch and grilling in two batches, you will need 1 cup chips for each batch .) For a gas grill, preheat the grill on high, then adjust the heat to medium-high (400°F to 450°F) . Wrap the chips in an aluminum foil packet and tear open the top of the packet . (If making a double batch and grilling in two batches, you will need to wrap each cup of chips in a separate foil packet .) Place the packet directly on the ignited heat source and heat until the chips are smoking . (If you have a smoker box, omit the foil packet and put the chips in the box .)Place the now-tepid unwrapped ribs on the grill . Cover the grill and cook, turning the ribs occasionally, until browned on both sides, about 10 minutes . Continue grilling, occasionally brushing with the sauce and keeping the lid closed, until the ribs are glazed, about 10 minutes more . Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes . Cut between the bones and serve the ribs with any remaining sauce .EQUIPMENTOne or two charcoal or gas grills; heavy-duty aluminum foil, prefer-ably extra wide; extra-long kitchen tongs; ice chest for keeping the sauced ribs warm (optional). BIG BATCH NOTESAn average (22-inch) charcoal grill will accommodate no more that 6 or 7 pounds of ribs. Keep the first batch of browned and glazed ribs hot in a cooler (without ice) while you finish the second batch.SERVINGFollow the Rodgers family lead and offer the best picnic food, such as chips and dip and coleslaw, maca-roni salad, potato salad, or maybe a broccoli salad. A recipe for the family’s favorite baked beans is on the facing page. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with the brownies on page 277, perhaps à la mode with a warm chocolate sauce (see page 277). Ribs are a sticky finger food, so pass around plenty of napkins—and maybe water bowls, too—before dessert so everyone can clean up. BACON AND BOURBON BEANSMakes 8 to 12 servingsYou can make the beans a day in advance, then cool, cover, and refrigerate them. To reheat, stir in 1 cup hot water, cover, and place in a preheated 350°F oven. Bake, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, then uncover and bake for 10 to 15 minutes to glaze the top.6 bacon slices, cut into 1-inch pieces1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia or Maui, chopped1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 (15-oz) can pinto beans, drained and rinsed 1 (15-oz) can small white beans, drained and rinsed1 (15-oz) can black beans, drained and rinsed, 1 (15-oz) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 cup barbecue sauce, homemade (page 169) or store-bought 1/2 cup ketchup 1/2 cup bourbon Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, cook the bacon over medium- high heat, turning occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain and cool, leaving the fat in the pot. Crumble the bacon.Add the onion, jalapeño, and garlic to the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the pinto, white, black, and kidney beans, followed by the barbecue sauce, ketchup, bourbon, and crumbled bacon. Bring to a boil. Cover and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover, stir, and continue baking until the cooking liquid has thick-ened, about 15 minutes. Serve the beans directly from the pot. 171root beer barbecued spareribs170meat and poultry: braises, roasts, grills, and friesINGREDIENTSSINGLE BATCHDOUBLE BATCHKetchup1 cup2 cupsCider vinegar1/3 cup2/3 cupMolasses (not blackstrap)1/3 cup2/3 cupWorcestershire sauce2 Tbsp1/4 cupSriracha or other hot sauce 1 tsp2 tspRubSmoked sweet paprika 1 Tbsp2 TbspKosher salt 1 Tbsp2 TbspGarlic powder11/2 tsp1 TbspOnion powder11/2 tsp1 TbspFreshly ground black pepper 11/2 tsp1 TbspCayenne pepper 1/2 tsp1 tspPork spareribs (in 4 slabs for a single batch, 8 slabs for a double batch)6 lb12 lbPecan, apple, or cherry wood chips1 cup2 cupsMake the sauce: In a heavy saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat . Add the onion(s) and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes . Add the ginger and garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute . Stir in half of the root beer, increase the heat to high, bring to a boil, and boil until the root beer is reduced to a thick syrup, 10 to 15 minutes . Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir in the remaining root beer, the ketchup, vinegar, molasses, Worcestershire sauce, and Sriracha and bring to a simmer . Simmer, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, 20 to 30 minutes . Remove from the heat and let cool . Make the rub: In a small bowl, whisk together the paprika, salt, garlic powder, onion powder, black pepper, and cayenne pepper, mixing well . Prepare the ribs: Remove the membrane from the bony side of each rib slab . To do this, slip a small, sharp knife under the membrane at one corner on the bone side of the ribs to loosen an inch or so of the membrane . Using a paper towel for traction, pull the membrane away from the ribs . This may take a couple of tries to remove most of the membrane . Trim off any extraneous surface fat, as well .Season the ribs all over with the rub . Wrap each slab in heavy-duty aluminum foil, creating a package . Wrap the package again, with a flat side of the foil covering the first folded seam, which will help keep the juices trapped in the foil as you cook and flip the ribs . Grill the ribs: Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat . If using a charcoal grill, let a chimney filled with about 6 pounds charcoal briquettes burn until it is just covered with white ash . Pour the coals out onto the grate and spread them in an even layer . Let the coals burn down for 5 to 10 minutes . If using a gas grill, preheat the grill with all burners on . Turn half of the burners off and adjust the heat to medium-high (400°F to 450°F) .If making a double batch, cook the ribs in two batches . Place the rib packets, seam side up, on the grill . Cover the grill and cook until the meat has shrunk and exposed about 1/2 inch from the rib bone ends (open a packet to look), about 11/4 hours . (For a charcoal grill, after 45 minutes, add about twelve briquettes to the coals to help maintain the temperature .) During cooking, carefully turn the packets two or three times with long tongs, taking care not to pierce the foil and release the juices (which would cause flare-ups) . Remove the packets from the grill and let them cool for about 30 minutes . Unwrap the ribs, discarding the fat and juices . Let the ribs cool for another 30 minutes until tepid . Prepare the grill again for direct cooking over medium-high heat to brown and sauce the ribs . For a charcoal grill, spread the ashed-over coals in an even layer and let them burn for about 20 minutes so they aren’t too hot . Sprinkle the wood chips over the coals . (If making a double batch and grilling in two batches, you will need 1 cup chips for each batch .) For a gas grill, preheat the grill on high, then adjust the heat to medium-high (400°F to 450°F) . Wrap the chips in an aluminum foil packet and tear open the top of the packet . (If making a double batch and grilling in two batches, you will need to wrap each cup of chips in a separate foil packet .) Place the packet directly on the ignited heat source and heat until the chips are smoking . (If you have a smoker box, omit the foil packet and put the chips in the box .)Place the now-tepid unwrapped ribs on the grill . Cover the grill and cook, turning the ribs occasionally, until browned on both sides, about 10 minutes . Continue grilling, occasionally brushing with the sauce and keeping the lid closed, until the ribs are glazed, about 10 minutes more . Transfer the ribs to a cutting board and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes . Cut between the bones and serve the ribs with any remaining sauce .EQUIPMENTOne or two charcoal or gas grills; heavy-duty aluminum foil, prefer-ably extra wide; extra-long kitchen tongs; ice chest for keeping the sauced ribs warm (optional). BIG BATCH NOTESAn average (22-inch) charcoal grill will accommodate no more that 6 or 7 pounds of ribs. Keep the first batch of browned and glazed ribs hot in a cooler (without ice) while you finish the second batch.SERVINGFollow the Rodgers family lead and offer the best picnic food, such as chips and dip and coleslaw, maca-roni salad, potato salad, or maybe a broccoli salad. A recipe for the family’s favorite baked beans is on the facing page. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with the brownies on page 277, perhaps à la mode with a warm chocolate sauce (see page 277). Ribs are a sticky finger food, so pass around plenty of napkins—and maybe water bowls, too—before dessert so everyone can clean up. BACON AND BOURBON BEANSMakes 8 to 12 servingsYou can make the beans a day in advance, then cool, cover, and refrigerate them. To reheat, stir in 1 cup hot water, cover, and place in a preheated 350°F oven. Bake, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, then uncover and bake for 10 to 15 minutes to glaze the top.6 bacon slices, cut into 1-inch pieces1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia or Maui, chopped1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 (15-oz) can pinto beans, drained and rinsed 1 (15-oz) can small white beans, drained and rinsed1 (15-oz) can black beans, drained and rinsed, 1 (15-oz) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 1 cup barbecue sauce, homemade (page 169) or store-bought 1/2 cup ketchup 1/2 cup bourbon Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a Dutch oven or flameproof casserole, cook the bacon over medium- high heat, turning occasionally, until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain and cool, leaving the fat in the pot. Crumble the bacon.Add the onion, jalapeño, and garlic to the pot and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the pinto, white, black, and kidney beans, followed by the barbecue sauce, ketchup, bourbon, and crumbled bacon. Bring to a boil. Cover and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover, stir, and continue baking until the cooking liquid has thick-ened, about 15 minutes. Serve the beans directly from the pot. Next >